Quoted from Green-Machine:

Who sells them? Every time I search something non-related comes up

Quoted from Green-Machine:

Who sells them? Every time I search something non-related comes up

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Cliffy...
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/JP3-ramp-enter-CF001.JPG

Quoted from Green-Machine:

I’m guessing you need to be on a pc to buy? Using my phone I’m not seeing how to purchase

Quoted from MrMikeman:

No you need to contact him with an email(check the contact section). He accepts Paypal. Those CF entry ramps are cheap to ship just got mine last week.

Quoted from Green-Machine:

Interesting. What is the cost for them?

Quoted from Red_Devils:

Cliff Renear
Https://passionforpinball.com

Quoted from MrMikeman:

I paid 9$ + shipping. In my case shipping was 1.50$ (reg envelope).

Quoted from MrMikeman:

No you need to contact him with an email(check the contact section). He accepts Paypal. Those CF entry ramps are cheap to ship just got mine last week.

Quoted from JMCFAN:

I ordered and have a complete set for my Prem....and dont have the game yet....lol

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Regarding common adjustments people are making from factory, are they listed anywhere?
Key Posts in both the LE and Pro JP Club threads don't show anything other than the shooter adjustment. From memory some have removed a screw in the Tower ramp to good effect. Are there others?
I'm keen to make mine flip as well as possible as I still have some nagging issues. i.e. The right orbit shot will always (99%) hit the truck captive ball upon exit, a bricked "S" shot will not bounce to the left flipper/slingshot, typically it's SDTM, the Tower shot bricks quite a lot, balls will often drain through the gate at the pops... and yep the ball shooter makes it up maybe 80/20.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Bumping my above questions, inc a vid of the orbit issue.

Quoted from Mtg381:

My orbit shot always goes to the upper flipper. Perhaps there's some play in the exit side of your ball guide that you can adjust?
I removed the screws and flap for the tower and installed the carbon fiber protector from Cliff, and it shoots much smoother.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I might have to remove the tower and some plastics to have a good look at the ball guide. From what I can see it's position looks solid and pretty definitive.
Has done it since day 1, I've levelled it to within an inch of it's life and no change. If I really crank up the degrees I can get it to miss, but it becomes unplayable. Looks like I'm ordering some Cliffy's.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

The right orbit shot will always (99%) hit the truck captive ball upon exit

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

a bricked "S" shot will not bounce to the left flipper/slingshot, typically it's SDTM

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

the Tower shot bricks quite a lot

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

balls will often drain through the gate at the pops

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

the ball shooter makes it up maybe 80/20.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Thanks for taking the time to reply Manny
Doesn't look like you're able to adjust the orbit ball guide much but it's worth trying. You might be able to simply loosen the nut under the PF and push on the ball guide while tightening will give you enough movement. Also post a pic of the orbit exit and I'll compare to where mine ball guide sits.
** This seems to be the best starting point, I'll take before and after shots of the ball guide exit to compare **
Have you swapped out the rubbers? The ball will come down the ball guide and deflect off the rubber ring. Maybe you need to see if you can similarly adjust the ball guide to expose a fraction more of the rubber to create a larger deflection. Again post a pic and I'll compare
** I have Titans on mine, though the issue was there straight out of the box. There isn't much movement in the post, or the relevant ball guide. I have pushed these as far as possible to only small effect. The only thing that really helps is pulling on the rubber to "clump" it and create more of a bulge. It does help, but after a few dozen games, the rubber settles back into position and SDTM start to occur. I'll take pics of this also **
What angle is you PF and is the top of the plastic flipper bat aligned to the alignment dot? Check whether the ball touches the tower flap screw or alternatively use the Cliffy carbon fibre flap
** I usually only measure my playfield between the flippers, 7 deg from memory, I'll measure the upper playfield to compare, maybe theres some flex. I have removed the screw and replaced with a flat head. The ball no longer touches the screw. The upper flipper, I'm unsure and will check **
I need to do this on mine ... I've seen 2 solutions - one using a cable tie and the second using a bit of an old leaf switch. Note that Keith commented that they originally had a spring on the gate but it had issues, removing it gave the game some extra variability
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
** I did a bit of gate bending and seems to have improved it a little. Will keep adjusting over the weekend. **
Is it both the manual and auto plungers or just one that tends to fail? Common things are left fork needs to be raised, plunger alignment (check both manual and auto), magnetised balls and a recent one posted was the wireform was moving and not centred in the top of the U ramp
** More so with the manual. The auto plunger is quite a bit more powerful though so it may compensate for any alignment issues. I haven't heard about the wireform, will take a look **

Quoted from Manny65:

Hey what coloured spring do you have on the manual plunger - from the factory they came with the green spring but the manual states an orange. Most people (especially those with issues) have swapped out the spring for the orange one (more tension) and found it much better.

Quoted from Manny65:

Hey what coloured spring do you have on the manual plunger - from the factory they came with the green spring but the manual states an orange. Most people (especially those with issues) have swapped out the spring for the orange one (more tension) and found it much better.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Turns out the ball guide on the S shot was installed incorrectly from factory. I was getting SDTM's on bricked S shots as the ball wasn't deflecting far enough to the left. Took the guide off and noticed there was an unused dimple a few mm inwards. Reinstalled it and for first time in almost 2000 games, the ball is deflecting as designed.
The other issues I'll get to tomorrow but so far so good.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Bumping my above questions, inc a vid of the orbit issue.

Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

I sent you a PM with a bunch of pics of the exit ramp and target, hopefully you can compare and see why that guide or possibly the target is deflecting your ball towards the truck.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Thanks 2MH. Your pics definitely helped solve the issue. My ball guide had a slight lip at the end, which wasn't noticeable until you take into account the shape of the plastic above. My ball guide followed the path of the plastic whereas yours dropped down, meaning your ball path was lower. I haven't been able to correct it completely, but I've bent it to the point that it no longer hits the truck when hitting the right orbit!! Win!!
So I've fixed the right orbit to correctly miss the Truck. The S shot now deflects properly to the left sling/flipper. I have also stuck down the metal flap (which seemed to be sitting too high) on the tower shot making a much smoother arc, meaning less bricked shots. The plunger is still a little hit and miss, I might still fiddle with this.
But these changes alone have made an incredible improvement. My average scores over the last 6 months were getting worse and worse, sitting in the 35-95 mill range, now I'm getting back into the groove shooting 150-250+ regularly. Shots and combos are much easier to hit, SDTM's are far rarer and the game just seems to flow. Such an awesome pin!!!
Thanks all for your help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Thanks 2MH. Your pics definitely helped solve the issue. My ball guide had a slight lip at the end, which wasn't noticeable until you take into account the shape of the plastic above. My ball guide followed the path of the plastic whereas yours dropped down, meaning your ball path was lower. I haven't been able to correct it completely, but I've bent it to the point that it no longer hits the truck when hitting the right orbit!! Win!!
So I've fixed the right orbit to correctly miss the Truck. The S shot now deflects properly to the left sling/flipper. I have also stuck down the metal flap (which seemed to be sitting too high) on the tower shot making a much smoother arc, meaning less bricked shots. The plunger is still a little hit and miss, I might still fiddle with this.
But these changes alone have made an incredible improvement. My average scores over the last 6 months were getting worse and worse, sitting in the 35-95 mill range, now I'm getting back into the groove shooting 150-250+ regularly. Shots and combos are much easier to hit, SDTM's are far rarer and the game just seems to flow. Such an awesome pin!!!
Thanks all for your help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from JMCFAN:

Anyone hear on next Prem run....?? Was told Feb.....

Quoted from wheels:

In cleaning the jeep assembly, anyone use Super White lithium grease? Or, should I just be using straight alcohol to clean the post? Thanks, everyone.

Quoted from wheels:

In cleaning the jeep assembly, anyone use Super White lithium grease? Or, should I just be using straight alcohol to clean the post? Thanks, everyone.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Thanks 2MH. Your pics definitely helped solve the issue. My ball guide had a slight lip at the end, which wasn't noticeable until you take into account the shape of the plastic above. My ball guide followed the path of the plastic whereas yours dropped down, meaning your ball path was lower. I haven't been able to correct it completely, but I've bent it to the point that it no longer hits the truck when hitting the right orbit!! Win!!
So I've fixed the right orbit to correctly miss the Truck. The S shot now deflects properly to the left sling/flipper. I have also stuck down the metal flap (which seemed to be sitting too high) on the tower shot making a much smoother arc, meaning less bricked shots. The plunger is still a little hit and miss, I might still fiddle with this.
But these changes alone have made an incredible improvement. My average scores over the last 6 months were getting worse and worse, sitting in the 35-95 mill range, now I'm getting back into the groove shooting 150-250+ regularly. Shots and combos are much easier to hit, SDTM's are far rarer and the game just seems to flow. Such an awesome pin!!!
Thanks all for your help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Kevlar:

My ball guide is exactly like yours, I've been planning on straightening it out a little on the end for a while but not because of the way the ball exits the right orbit, but because I believe it's making the inner loop shot much harder than it should be, it's narrowing the opening into the loop. I've never had a machine where the inner loop is that hard to hit! Seriously I can hit the Tron Gem shot more often than I can hit this loop on purpose.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I bent mine only a manner on millimetres. Is it possible your upper flipper is misaligned?

Quoted from Kevlar:

I don't think so, if you make a line from the end of that inner loop ball guide to where the last bit of that guide is aiming it's not aiming at the flipper but above it. I'd say the opening into the loop on mine will gain about 1/8" if I straighten it out. That may not be a lot but on a tight shot I need all the help I can get .
I'll check the alignment too though.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Credit to Manny for the shot, but this is correct upper flipper alignment.[quoted image]

Quoted from StoneyCreek:

interesting is the "90-" above the flipper, which seems to align 90degrees to the line you drew. it looks like there are a few registration lines on that assembly.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

It’s not a 90. It”s plastic number 06. The part number is 830-1038-06. The 830-1038 stays the same(jurassic park plastics). Individual plastics have a different last 2 digits.

Quoted from pinballaddicted:

If you want standard settings, tip of the flipper is meant to line up with the hole in the playfield.
[quoted image]

Quoted from MrMikeman:

no. This has been covered so many times with the designer himself stating that it’s the top of the flipper bat that needs to align to the hole. The bat(yellow). Not the rubber.
This is only for the top flipper. The bottom ones need to align as you have stated. Tip centered with the alignment hole.

Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Could you show me where KME said this please?
I was unaware.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155
sk8ball is Keith Elwin btw in case you weren’t in the know.

Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

It's not designed to be lubricated. It can get gummed up from dust, firing of coils, ect, if you add lubricant it may get gummed up quicker .just pull the shaft out and clean up with some alcohol.

Quoted from wheels:

I'll be installing the Cliffy carbon protectors on the 2 ramps. I plan to remove the left screw for the Tower ramp.
Anyone know which screw to remove for the helicopter ramp?

Quoted from Cheeks:

Can the left screw in the tower reasonably be removed without dismantling the tower/wireform? I see a notch that looks like it's for direct access, but my screwdriver isn't long enough to reach so I can't tell. (That's what she said...)

Quoted from Cheeks:

Can the left screw in the tower reasonably be removed without dismantling the tower/wireform? I see a notch that looks like it's for direct access, but my screwdriver isn't long enough to reach so I can't tell. (That's what she said...)