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(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!


By EightBallTexas

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,128 posts
  • 525 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 minutes ago by PeterG
  • Topic is favorited by 248 Pinsiders

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“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

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There are 6128 posts in this topic. You are on page 121 of 123.
#6001 35 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

If using an external sub, you took a different approach and probably getting all the low-end you can handle! That said, I like the self-contained approach, which leaves the machine identical to the way it shipped from the manufacturer and can be sold without needing any explanations about extra boxes.
Looking at the installed picture you can see I did not add any type of amplifier and just moved the two wire connector from their OEM speaker to my CXX8 (some simple testing showed me that the built-in cabinet speaker amplifier has plenty of power... it was just missing the way to get the power out effectively). In a previous note I showed the Kicker DSC40's I installed in the backbox (uses the same 4-inch mounting), and coupled with the CXX8, I wanted to show a $75 all-in upgrade for the top and bottom that makes a big difference.

So I am getting ready to order those kicker cabinet speakers that are recommended, I noticed that the stock ones are 8 ohm speakers. I don’t have a ton of speaker knowledge, so I am wondering why we wouldn’t have to replace the factory speakers with 8ohm instead of 4?

#6002 35 days ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

Bump for any wisdom?
It seems to be a sticky switch on the mid position. It activates too early even though I can't even see the switch arm moving. I checked the setscrew that holds the cam in place and that's tight. The cam itself will travel to the right positions when I works correctly. I don't know how to adjust the switch so it doesn't activate early and doesn't stick on. It's bolted to a plate with the rest of the assembly.
Picture with switch in question and the plate it's attached to.
[quoted image]

You just loosen the two screws holding the switch and you can rotate the whole switch assembly until there's a bigger gap so the switch doesn't trigger so easily. There's quite a bit of play once you loosen the screws. Just make sure you don't remove them. Hassle to put them back in sometimes.

It really is a simple fix and is required on switches from time to time so good to learn.

#6003 35 days ago
Quoted from JRay23:

So I am getting ready to order those kicker cabinet speakers that are recommended, I noticed that the stock ones are 8 ohm speakers. I don’t have a ton of speaker knowledge, so I am wondering why we wouldn’t have to replace the factory speakers with 8ohm instead of 4?

The machine's settings can be set to 4 ohm or 8 ohm. Premiums are set to 8-ohms with horrible 4-inch OEM speakers. LE's are set to 4-ohm with much better 5-1/4" speakers. (Some audiophilers will tell you you'll get a faster responce with lower ohm speakers). In this application I don't think ohms or size makes a big difference, but the absolute quality of the speaker DOES make a difference. The Kicker DSC40's are amazing, and mount in the EXACT same bolt pattern on the Premium without requiring any new (and expensive) LE-style mounting plates. You could find some 8-ohm speakers, but I preferred to use similiar speakers as those used in the LE (which are 4-ohm) but get the 4-inch version.

#6004 35 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The machine's settings can be set to 4 ohm or 8 ohm. Premiums are set to 8-ohms with horrible 4-inch OEM speakers. LE's are set to 4-ohm with much better 5-1/4" speakers. (Some audiophilers will tell you you'll get a faster responce with lower ohm speakers). In this application I don't think ohms or size makes a big difference, but the absolute quality of the speaker DOES make a difference. The Kicker DSC40's are amazing, and mount in the EXACT same bolt pattern on the Premium without requiring and new LE-style mounting plates. You could find some 8-ohm speakers, but I preferred to use similiar speakers as those used in the LE (which are 4-ohm) but get the 4-inch version.

Thanks for the reply, so if I go with 4ohm speakers on my premium, I should go ahead and change the setting to 4 ohms correct?

#6005 35 days ago
Quoted from JRay23:

Thanks for the reply, so if I go with 4ohm speakers on my premium, I should go ahead and change the setting to 4 ohms correct?

Yup. Works like a charm

#6006 35 days ago

Never mind...

#6007 35 days ago

Question for the masses. Had my premium about a week now and have been loving it but I’m still lost on the pitch 6.5 it shoots sloppy 7.0 it seems to not make the ramps every time. What’s the consensus as I’ve seen both argued and I’ve gone back and forth a bunch

2. When I hit the spinner shot off the left flipper is the ball supposed to travel around and feed to the upper flipper or fall in the pops. Seems the later is more often for me.

I know these things get asked a lot but appreciate the advice. Super happy with this pin and so glad to own it.

#6008 35 days ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Question for the masses. Had my premium about a week now and have been loving it but I’m still lost on the pitch 6.5 it shoots sloppy 7.0 it seems to not make the ramps every time. What’s the consensus as I’ve seen both argued and I’ve gone back and forth a bunch
2. When I hit the spinner shot off the left flipper is the ball supposed to travel around and feed to the upper flipper or fall in the pops. Seems the later is more often for me.
I know these things get asked a lot but appreciate the advice. Super happy with this pin and so glad to own it.

1) I'd say just tweak pitch slightly, play for a few days or a week, then if you don't like it adjust it a little bit more & repeat the process until you find a spot where you like it. Are the ramp shots rattling out a lot or just not making it up the ramp? If they're rattling out, then adjusting the flipper power up or down a bit can make a difference. Also check to see that the ball is transitioning smoothly from the ball guide to the flipper and not hopping away from the face of the flipper when it transitions.
2) The shot through the spinner on mine will go around the orbit on a clean shot and fall into the pops on a weaker shot. I don't think falling into the pops is a bad thing since you build the amber award and it releases out to the orbit anyway, so it doesn't cost you the chance at taking a shot from the upper flipper.

#6009 35 days ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Question for the masses. Had my premium about a week now and have been loving it but I’m still lost on the pitch 6.5 it shoots sloppy 7.0 it seems to not make the ramps every time. What’s the consensus as I’ve seen both argued and I’ve gone back and forth a bunch
2. When I hit the spinner shot off the left flipper is the ball supposed to travel around and feed to the upper flipper or fall in the pops. Seems the later is more often for me.
I know these things get asked a lot but appreciate the advice. Super happy with this pin and so glad to own it.

Others including myself have been dealing with this sloppy clunky gameplay. I can’t seem to get mine to play smoothly. I’ve tried everything posted

#6010 35 days ago

Well.. it took 10 months, but today I finally received and installed my new replacement playfield. It looks fantastic! Thank you Stern!

A few things my son and I noticed immediately is that they changed the Trex slightly. It looks like Stern made him more of a darker olive green tan. It looks better IMO. Less green green. The teeth look bigger to me also.
Also the rgb leds have some slightly different colors too. The blues and green definitely look different.

Now I just need to diagnose the trex ramp not registering all fast shots...
I'm gonna dive into the optos tomorrow.

Junky

#6011 35 days ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Well.. it took 10 months, but today I finally received and installed my new replacement playfield. It looks fantastic! Thank you Stern!
A few things my son and I noticed immediately is that they changed the Trex slightly. It looks like Stern made him more of a darker olive green tan. It looks better IMO. Less green green. The teeth look bigger to me also.
Also the rgb leds have some slightly different colors too. The blues and green definitely look different.
Now I just need to diagnose the trex ramp not registering all fast shots...
I'm gonna dive into the optos tomorrow.
Junky

You got a populated PF??

#6012 34 days ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

You got a populated PF??

What I was about to say! Wow

#6013 34 days ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Question for the masses. Had my premium about a week now and have been loving it but I’m still lost on the pitch 6.5 it shoots sloppy 7.0 it seems to not make the ramps every time. What’s the consensus as I’ve seen both argued and I’ve gone back and forth a bunch
2. When I hit the spinner shot off the left flipper is the ball supposed to travel around and feed to the upper flipper or fall in the pops. Seems the later is more often for me.
I know these things get asked a lot but appreciate the advice. Super happy with this pin and so glad to own it.

1. What about something between?
2. From the left flipper it almost never makes it diregtly to the right flipper. That seems to happen by design if you study the entrance. Also you need some ways to feed the pops. From the right flipper on the other hand the shot should go around the pops if hit right.

#6014 34 days ago

Had a bunch of questions about my JP-Premium speaker swapping, so I wanted to summarize here:

1. The Premium comes with 4-inch backbox mounting plates. The LE comes with 5-1/4 inch plates. The plates determine where the mounting bolts are. Swapping these plates can be expensive, $30 or so each side (PBL), unless you are buying with the SpeakerLEDs upgrade and they save you some $$
2. Kicker makes a great series of two-way speakers called the "DS", with zero front extension and great power handling and large magnet. Depending on the mounting plate you have or want to have, you can get the 4-inch DSC40 pair ($50 Crutchfield), or the 5-1/4-inch DSC50 pair ($60 Crutchfield).
3. The OEM backbox speakers in a Premium are 8-ohm, and the OEM backbox speakers in an LE are 4-ohm.
4. The DS series in both sizes are 4-ohm. The machines SETTINGS allow either 8 or 4 ohm, selectable.
5. The Cabinet speaker in both the Premium and LE are 4-ohm. It is an 8-inch speaker
6. You can replace the Cabinet speaker with a BOSS CXX8 8-inch 4-ohm poly woofer. To do so, you simply move the connector (easy soldering required) and use a rounded file to enlarge four of the mounting holes ON THE CXX8 just a hint. (Takes 2 minutes)
7a. The cabinet bolts for the speaker are short. Just barely long enoung to swap in a better speaker. You can install the CXX8 on the same mounting bolts embedded in the cabinet with some solid downward pressure and then using the original nuts to grab a few threads. A drop of Blue loctite and you are done.
7b. If your bolts are really too short, you can instead get four of the #6-32 1/4" T-Nuts, knock the spikes off them, and then use upside down with a #10 star lock washer and a drop of blue locktite.
8. Go into SETTINGS and confirm the OHM settings match the speakers you have installed.

Note: Already have an external sub-woofer installed? You may find that the cabinet speaker is STILL giving you a bunch of lower-end frequencies which the external sub-woofer is likely not reproducing. That said, swapping the cabinet speaker may not be needed since the deep bass is being handled by the external.

#6015 34 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

You just loosen the two screws holding the switch and you can rotate the whole switch assembly until there's a bigger gap so the switch doesn't trigger so easily. There's quite a bit of play once you loosen the screws. Just make sure you don't remove them. Hassle to put them back in sometimes.
It really is a simple fix and is required on switches from time to time so good to learn.

Thanks for the tip. I went ahead and tried this yesterday.
I don't have the ignition wrenches to properly unscrew the fasteners that hold the switch on (I know they're Data East legacy, but WHY these hex heads and not the same size phillips? Not important enough to change I guess) so I had to be gentle with some small pliers.
I had about a mm in each direction of play on the switch once loose. It took me a few tries, but it seems to have worked. The trex still has a slightly different middle sitting point depending on if it comes from the up or down position first but it no longer sits so low that it hits the habitrail so I'll call that a win for now.
Thanks again mrmikeman

#6016 34 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Had a bunch of questions about my JP-Premium speaker swapping, so I wanted to summarize here:

You might also consider ordering a kit from Dan pinwoofer. He's great to work with and offers an awesome plug and play solution!

#6017 34 days ago

I just did this for mine. Get the kit for $100.00 from speaker lights that gives you the plate and the lights for the 5.25" and get a color plate.

http://speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

Get these speakers, they sound great and look good too.

amazon.com link »

It is an easy swap over. Takes about 30 minutes. You will need to solder the wires onto the speaker tabs. make a note that there is a (+ & -) wire.

You can see my recent transformations pic in my post from yesterday. I used the mirror surround plate. Looks great.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/141#post-5866017

#6018 34 days ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

I just did this for mine. Get the kit for $100.00 from speaker lights that gives you the plate and the lights for the 5.25" and get a color plate.
http://speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html
Get these speakers, they sound great and look good too.
amazon.com link »
It is an easy swap over. Takes about 30 minutes. You will need to solder the wires onto the speaker tabs. make a note that there is a (+ & -) wire.
You can see my recent transformations pic in my post from yesterday. I used the mirror surround plate. Looks great.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/141#post-5866017

nice, just did the exact same thing.

#6019 34 days ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

You got a populated PF??

Yes. Stern did the right thing here

#6020 34 days ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Yes. Stern did the right thing here

That is great! Happy flipping!

#6021 34 days ago
Quoted from Mtg381:

You might also consider ordering a kit from Dan pinwoofer. He's great to work with and offers an awesome plug and play solution!

I agree Dan is great to work with. I have two of his set ups. I also have pins connected to external subs. I prefer the pinwoofer setup.

#6022 34 days ago

I got a NIB JP prem a few weeks ago and have been having an issue where my raptor pit registers randomly and locks the gate with no ball in it. This causes two balls in the game and as soon as one ball drains it ends my ball. It happens pretty much every game but sometimes right away and sometimes 5 mins into a ball. No consistency in where the ball is when it happens, pops, "c" target, trex mouth. "Gatekeeper, raise the gate" is my least favorite call out now, lol. I dont see the opto stuck on in the menus and i cant seem to replicate it with the glass off. I also unplugged and replugged the opto incase it was a bad connection. Latest code from factory.

Anyone got any ideas on what else to check? Losing my mind not being able to play a good game without being interupted with the issue.

#6023 34 days ago
Quoted from Chimmy:

I got a NIB JP prem a few weeks ago and have been having an issue where my raptor pit registers randomly and locks the gate with no ball in it. This causes two balls in the game and as soon as one ball drains it ends my ball. It happens pretty much every game but sometimes right away and sometimes 5 mins into a ball. No consistency in where the ball is when it happens, pops, "c" target, trex mouth. "Gatekeeper, raise the gate" is my least favorite call out now, lol. I dont see the opto stuck on in the menus and i cant seem to replicate it with the glass off. I also unplugged and replugged the opto incase it was a bad connection. Latest code from factory.
Anyone got any ideas on what else to check? Losing my mind not being able to play a good game without being interupted with the issue.

Maybe one of the non-opto switches in the raptor pit is being triggered by vibration and needs to be adjusted? Have you tried taking the glass off and hitting the play field with the palm of your hand to see if a switch registers? Might be worth trying that while in switch test in the menu to see if it happens and so you can see which switch is registering when it shouldn't be. Just an idea though.

I don't know whether or not there's a switch history in the menu that will tell you the order in which the switches registered during a game. If there is then you might be able to check it out to see which switch is registering when it shouldn't. I don't know if there's a switch history in the Stern menu though.

#6024 34 days ago

My raptor pit does this whenever the raptor figure legs are loose. I haven’t bothered figuring out why - instead I just reversed the locking nut on its legs so it locks on the few threads that stick out.

#6025 34 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Maybe one of the non-opto switches in the raptor pit is being triggered by vibration and needs to be adjusted? Have you tried taking the glass off and hitting the play field with the palm of your hand to see if a switch registers? Might be worth trying that while in switch test in the menu to see if it happens and so you can see which switch is registering when it shouldn't be. Just an idea though.
I don't know whether or not there's a switch history in the menu that will tell you the order in which the switches registered during a game. If there is then you might be able to check it out to see which switch is registering when it shouldn't. I don't know if there's a switch history in the Stern menu though.

I tried shaking the machine with the glass off in different spots to see if vibration caused it and couldnt ever get it to trigger. The shaker motor really vibrates things and that doesnt seem to correlate. I even tested the travel distance on the targets to make sure it wasnt too close to the contacts. Thats why i think its the opto and not the target causing the issue, but i dont know for sure. Yea if there was a logging system that showed the order of switches firing this would be an easy fix, but i dont think there is one.

I will try shaking the machine with the switch test open and maybe replicate the issue. Thanks.

#6026 32 days ago

Well i didn't get lucky enough to reserve a playstation today but I did secure a lit amber stern shooter knob on ebay. Yikes I paid a bit.

#6027 32 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

1) I'd say just tweak pitch slightly, play for a few days or a week, then if you don't like it adjust it a little bit more & repeat the process until you find a spot where you like it. Are the ramp shots rattling out a lot or just not making it up the ramp? If they're rattling out, then adjusting the flipper power up or down a bit can make a difference. Also check to see that the ball is transitioning smoothly from the ball guide to the flipper and not hopping away from the face of the flipper when it transitions.
2) The shot through the spinner on mine will go around the orbit on a clean shot and fall into the pops on a weaker shot. I don't think falling into the pops is a bad thing since you build the amber award and it releases out to the orbit anyway, so it doesn't cost you the chance at taking a shot from the upper flipper.

One of the big advantages of the ball falling into the pops from the top is that it lights the Lite Escape target. Hit the Lite Escape target while lit, activates Escape on the left outlane. One of my strategies during Chaos MB is to put shots up through the spinner into the pops, this way I'm trying to keep Escape lit as well as get add-a-ball from pop hits.

1 week later
#6028 19 days ago

Had my side rails powered coated and just trying to decide which color backing looks better. Black or yellow?

20201007_225941 (resized).jpg20201007_225954 (resized).jpg20201007_232300 (resized).jpg20201007_232324 (resized).jpg
#6031 18 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Had my side rails powered coated and just trying to decide which color backing looks better. Black or yellow?

Yellow.

#6032 18 days ago

Black, unless you change the flipper buttons I think there’s too much yellow there.

#6033 18 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Had my side rails powered coated and just trying to decide which color backing looks better. Black or yellow?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Both look good, but I think the black looks a bit more stealthy, and tends to bring in the shadows from the side art and the darkness of the back box to that area...it also makes the side rails pop a bit more, I think.

#6034 18 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Had my side rails powered coated and just trying to decide which color backing looks better. Black or yellow?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Can you try half yellow&black that might be a good balance.

#6035 17 days ago

Minor issue I am having.....

When the T-Rex head swings to the left it keeps hitting into the electric fence post enough so that the post gets pushed back slightly each time the head hits it. Is there an adjustment in the settings to make the head not go that far to the left or does some other adjustment need to be made?

Thanks!

#6036 17 days ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Minor issue I am having.....
When the T-Rex head swings to the left it keeps hitting into the electric fence post enough so that the post gets pushed back slightly each time the head hits it. Is there an adjustment in the settings to make the head not go that far to the left or does some other adjustment need to be made?
Thanks!

Does the T-Rex center up on the ramp properly, or is he off there too?

#6037 17 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Does the T-Rex center up on the ramp properly, or is he off there too?

It’s centered properly after making the center adjustment to 2.

#6038 17 days ago

Hi,
Are some issues remaining?
I don’t know if i’m wrong but i think some inserts do not work during some mods.
Does someone confirm?
Thanks

#6039 17 days ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Minor issue I am having.....
When the T-Rex head swings to the left it keeps hitting into the electric fence post enough so that the post gets pushed back slightly each time the head hits it. Is there an adjustment in the settings to make the head not go that far to the left or does some other adjustment need to be made?
Thanks!

Mine has done the same thing from day 1 (Sept. 2019) and I haven't had any issue with it damaging anything.

#6040 17 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Mine has done the same thing from day 1 (Sept. 2019) and I haven't had any issue with it damaging anything.

Mine also hits the post but I don't think it's hurting it. I haven't looked closely though.

#6041 17 days ago

I don’t think it will break anything, it just doesn’t look right. If there isn’t anything to do about it I’ll just leave it.

#6042 17 days ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

I don’t think it will break anything, it just doesn’t look right. If there isn’t anything to do about it I’ll just leave it.

Yep, and if I remember correctly when the game first started shipping there were some posts in this forum about the same issue with people (probably including me) wondering if the contact with the post was going to break something. I don't recall any posts since then where people said something broke on it though so seems like you should be good to go.

#6043 17 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Had my side rails powered coated and just trying to decide which color backing looks better. Black or yellow?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’d do black. Switch the flipper buttons to black too

#6044 17 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Had my side rails powered coated and just trying to decide which color backing looks better. Black or yellow?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice! What color is that powder coat?

#6045 17 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Yep, and if I remember correctly when the game first started shipping there were some posts in this forum about the same issue with people (probably including me) wondering if the contact with the post was going to break something. I don't recall any posts since then where people said something broke on it though so seems like you should be good to go.

Me too. It hasn't caused any issues or damage to either the post or the trex. As long as this trend continues I kinda like the effect.

#6046 17 days ago

Is it possible to earn time during modes and how?
What tranquilizer is used for?
Thanks

#6047 16 days ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Is it possible to earn time during modes and how?
What tranquilizer is used for?
Thanks

There are timers for various modes and different shots to extend the time
- Capturing T-Rex will extend all timers by 8 seconds
- In T-Rex modes, shooting the orange lights extends your time
- In Raptor Tri-Ball you can reset the jackpot timer by hitting the captive ball (assuming you have a Prem or LE).
- Shooting Supply Drop targets during 2x PF scoring will extend the timer
There are probably more, take a look at the rulesheet http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

In regards to the tranquiliser, the dino (green arrow) will move towards the closest lit Rescue shot; if you shoot the dino shot it will temporarily slow (tranquilise) the dino by pausing its pursuit for a few seconds. There is also the Super Tranquiliser which when qualified the action button will be green, pressing it will stun the dinosaur for 20 seconds and prevent it from being able to move, or kill an employee that it’s landed on. If a dino kills an employee, your rescue streak is restarted; it also delays the dino escaping and gives you more time to capture the dino. You have a Super Tranquiliser available when you start your first paddock and can qualify additional Super Tranquilisers by shooting the Raptor Tower (you get one for every 5 tower shots) however Super Tranquilisers can’t be stacked.

#6048 16 days ago

I'm in!

#6049 15 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

There are timers for various modes and different shots to extend the time
- Capturing T-Rex will extend all timers by 8 seconds
- In T-Rex modes, shooting the orange lights extends your time
- In Raptor Tri-Ball you can reset the jackpot timer by hitting the captive ball (assuming you have a Prem or LE).
- Shooting Supply Drop targets during 2x PF scoring will extend the timer
There are probably more, take a look at the rulesheet http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644
In regards to the tranquiliser, the dino (green arrow) will move towards the closest lit Rescue shot; if you shoot the dino shot it will temporarily slow (tranquilise) the dino by pausing its pursuit for a few seconds. There is also the Super Tranquiliser which when qualified the action button will be green, pressing it will stun the dinosaur for 20 seconds and prevent it from being able to move, or kill an employee that it’s landed on. If a dino kills an employee, your rescue streak is restarted; it also delays the dino escaping and gives you more time to capture the dino. You have a Super Tranquiliser available when you start your first paddock and can qualify additional Super Tranquilisers by shooting the Raptor Tower (you get one for every 5 tower shots) however Super Tranquilisers can’t be stacked.

Thanks
I get it now better regarding this green arrow. During paddock mode, is rescue staff the only goal? Sorry, i don’t manage to understand clearly when i read rules on tiltforum

What about extend time during control room modes?
Thanks

#6050 15 days ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Thanks
I get it now better regarding this green arrow. During paddock mode, is rescue staff the only goal? Sorry, i don’t manage to understand clearly when i read rules on tiltforum
What about extend time during control room modes?
Thanks

Rescuing the staff enables ‘set trap’ targets. Set trap targets light the dino for capture. Capture the dino and move to the next paddock or rescue all the peeps before moving on.

For scoring goals, focus on rescue streaks. For progress, catch dino and move on.

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