I installed the 1:43 Jada 24038-W1 Jurassic World 2015 Movie Die Cast Wrangler Jeep. Not easy to find nowadays (not surprised). I bugged Jada about making a similar sized Ford Explorer but I'm not sure that would work at 1:43 since the jeep if mounted at the right balance barely clears the loop ramp. I think the Ford given its longer hood may not clear it at that scale. Would be so awesome though!

1:43 seems to be nearly identical to original. I hold them side by side and they look the same to me

As others have said, 1:43 is the scale to go with

Hey guys, just thought I should mention that the LE armour isn't powder coated, it's actually a plastic wrap ... don't ask how I know, and replacements aren't available

That's not how it's advertised, I'd be mad.

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Well I've never seen a powder coated item ever do this ...

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Looks like powder coat that has been scratched.

This just happened to mine last night as well. Do I have to disassemble the whole mech to reattach the bottom jaw?
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MY jaw dropped when I saw what happened... Yikes!

Time to strip it and really get it powder coated!!!

https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powdercoating-diy-system.html

https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html

That's cool, but it is going to require your wife's permission (or forgiveness) to use her oven (sexist?). Either way, it's not going to be pretty for you. Not to mention, I don't think you're going to fit either a side rail or leg in a home oven.

Of course, you could be like my recently passed uncle who spent 90% of his time in the garage where not only did he have his own fully stocked beer/soda fridge, but also his own full sized oven.

Yep my guess (it was done by the original owner) it was caused by lowering the PF off centre and scraped the PF slide component that is bolted to the bottom of the PF on the rail.

The paint (if you can call it that) peels off the metal rail like it's plastic - I could understand if it had simply put a scrape in the paint or if the paint had chipped or flaked. Maybe this is a different powdering coating process to that which I'm familiar with ...

I know the backbox speakers in the LE are Kenwood KFC-1366S 5.25" speakers, but could someone please tell me what exact make/model the cabinet speaker is?

Also, from what I can discern, are the speakers themselves the only difference in the audio systems of the LE & Premium (i.e. no extra amps, etc.)?

Correct. No other AMPS or cross-overs used. Its simply a design choice of speakers that was made to save cost. The speakers they chose for the Premium are just generic 4-inch and 8-inch speakers. You can loosely correlate the quality of a speaker to 1) the capacity of the coil usually noted as how many Watts it can handle, and 2) the weight of the magnet which can be visibly seen, but hard to actually weight. This largely affects the amount of air that is moved.

Note: You do not HAVE to go with a larger speaker to get better sound. This is a common mis-conception. If the two factors above are considered, you can use much smaller speakers. Size doesn't always matter! (Bose made its name 30 years ago building Acoustimass speakers which were the size of your fist and yet filled an entire room with amazing audiophile quality sound)

Thanks for the clarity. I'm aware that speaker size/quality doesn't necessarily correlate, but wanting to achieve the look of the LE speaker grills with added lighting is really the driving purpose of upgrading to 5-1/4" speakers (silly to some I'm sure). I know that even the LE sound could be improved with a more expensive setup, but from what I've read in these forums most all the LE owners seem to be happy with the sound quality. The exact Kenwood backbox speakers are only about $40, so I was wondering what it would be to match the LE's stock cabinet speaker also, which is why I'm interested in the make/model of it (I assume it is some Kenwood, but I have not idea what size or model).

Still haven't made the decision to order a JP yet, but I'm getting close so doing research ahead of time.

Nothing better to help you speed up your research then having a JP on order and on its way to your house..... 8-)

Still would like to know what cabinet speaker comes with LE (a pic of the label by an LE owner would suffice). However, would also be interested what make/model you went with for your cabinet speaker (I think you may have posted it before, so I can go find it if you don't know off the top of your head).

Hello all,

I've been playing the hell out of my premium since it got in the other week and been loving it.

Last night I noticed the trex seemed to be sitting lower than her normal mid position and was making contact with the habitrail on the right. It was late so I just turned the game off and decided to tackle it today.

After coming back I've figured out that she sits in her normal mid position on switch 65 only if coming back from the up position on switch 64.
When raising its head from the down position, switch 65 activates too quickly and leaves the head in a spot where it will make contact with the plastics and habitrail leaving the motors to grind.

Should I be adjusting the cam that activates the switches or the switch itself? Again, it works fine when coming from the up position.

I looked at a bunch of 8-inch speakers, most these days have mounting brackets or air handlers that protrude outward from the plane of the face which would make mounting tougher, or they have dual 4-ohm coils, which is not really the right answer for this application (although you could wire in series as an 8-ohm and then change the settings, but I wanted to stay true to the 4-ohm cabinet setting shipped by Stern). I found the BOSS Audio Systems CXX8 Subwoofer to be a great fit. Plenty of power handling, easy mounting, single 4-ohm coil, rubber surround, poly cone (instead of paper). Low cost under $30.

I’ve done plenty of powder coating .
Engine blocks ,intakes , brackets excetra!
And for things too large for oven heat lamps work well! Only need 400 degrees and keep an eye on the melt! It’s so easy even you can do it without throwing a Tantrum
Maybe you need Mrs. Tantrums permission! I do as I please

Why is everyone obsessed with this? Maybe my ears aren't sophisticated, but my shitty JP Pro speakers sound awesome to me.

For me, sound quality is near the top of what I want in my pins. For my classic pins my first upgrades were PinSound boards and speakers, even before color DMDs. Ultimately, quality sound is what makes a game most immersive to me. Others may not appreciate or require quality/upgraded sound components to enjoy their games, and that’s okay. However, there is a noticeable difference when upgrading, and for many the added expense is worth it to improve their overall gameplay experience.

Sorry if I came across as disparaging your suggestion as that wasn’t my intent. I think that the ability to do DIY powder coating is awesome, but just wanted to throw out some considerations before diving into it for pinball machines.

Good thing for my wallet that I can't tell the difference

The LE has a Goldwood Sound Inc, 20 oz, GQ-208/4, Chatsworth, CA USA

The manual shows the LE and Premium have the same cabinet speaker, it was just the backbox speakers that were upgraded on the LE

thanks

just happened to me as well. it's kinda tough getting under the jaw to screw them back in. any recommendations from someone that has already had this happen to them? did you have to disassemble the rex? loctite the screws? thanks.

Bump for a solution on bottom T-Rex jaw falling off.

Still haven't fixed mine yet.

Pets heads.gif

If you DO fix it and decide to loctite the screws, consider BLUE 242 instead of RED. Its semi-permanent, rather than perm. That will save your world NEXT time you need to service that screw(s).

I'm wondering whether I should be proactive and do them with locktite before I lose any of the screws ....

I bought a NIB JP Prem and set it up last weekend in my mother in laws house (talk about earning brownie points, amiright?!)

Last night, I was sent a video showing the Trex head stuck to the left side. I'm going up this weekend to troubleshoot, but I was wondering if anybody had any advice for things to check? I suspect its a microswitch not registering, hopefully it's something simple like a lose connection or a bad wire.

once you change them and add the pinsound board , you'll understand!

Well, on the classic games of course - not the brand new Sterns. PinSound boards, speakers, etc. rock! I highly recommend them to anyone wanting to bring new life and a more immersive experience to any of the classic pins that are supported.

I have never actually played a machine with Pinsound, but as I understand it, its far more than just new speakers or amplifiers. My understanding, Pinsound taps into the same logic control that on older machines triggered/generated their sampled original audio (music, sounds and voice) clips and played mono boring audio, and instead actually uses those same triggers to generate a whole new sound track entirely. And the Pinsound sound package can be modified at will (and they have a library of user's contributed custom sountracks) to be used depending on your mood. In this way, the machine 'thinks' its still pumping out the old school sound, but in reality the entire Pinsound audio system is working in parrallel with a whole new audio track, hifi sound...

Am I correct?

I'd say that's an accurate description. Personally, I've created about 20 custom PinSound orchestrations for a multitude of titles, and about a half dozen shaker routines that PinSound includes with their shaker. The shaker is awesome for a few reasons: 1) you can add a shaker to any pin that supports PinSound, 2) you can program shaker events on a per audio event basis, 3) you have 9 preset shaker actions and 3 custom actions you can variably assign (e.g. start intensity, duration, end intensity), and 4) it has a built in relay that you can connect an external powered device to (e.g. fog machine, lights, etc.) and assign actions per sound event (e.g. duration, # loops, time between loops).

I could go on and on about their products. Both my Getaway and my recently sold DE JP had PinSound boards, speakers, headphones stations - external volume control, and my Getaway has their DMD power board in it.

Im finally in the club! Drove 20 hours total yesterday to pick up a nice low play premium from another forum member. Pumped to get some mods going on this thing. Going to try and go back through this thread but thats going to take a while!

Looking at the above speaker posts, I know I want to upgrade those for sure. Looks like the BOSS Audio Systems CXX8 Subwoofer and Kenwood KFC-1366S 5.25" speakers are the way to go?

One question, has anyone had a rattle in the glass? I notice during any kind of bass, I can hear it, when I tap on the right corner near the backbox it makes the noise. I was just going to try and put a small piece of felt in there to stabilize unless anyone else has had this and has a good fix?

What is a “cassette tape” an old band or something?

Cassette Tape was a sister band to the "8-Tracks"

Had some folks ask about the cabinet woofer upgrade on my JP Premium. So here are some images of the swap I made, using the $30 Boss CXX8. You can see the dramatic difference between the Stern stock (grey magnet) and the Boss. Both are 4 ohm, and mount in 8-inch spaces, but otherwise it's like night and day. I placed the speakers on a scale to show the massive difference in magnet size too (more than 3 times the weight). You can see it installed in last picture. Simple swap: pull the old one out with 4 nuts, move wires with a soldering iron, then use a round file to enlarge four of the holes in the CXX8 just a hint. Then press the CXX8 into place and put the nuts back on the posts (they will be hard to thread, but will work with some pressure and patience). Finally a drop of blue thread locker on each...

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do you think this makes sense if using an external sub at the same time? And you do not us an amp or something right?

Hey, those OEM speakers look like the ACDelco ones I pulled out of my ‘73 Chevelle in high school when I upgraded the AM/FM radio system.

I have this speaker and the Kinwoods used in the LE backbox on order to convert my upcoming Premium to LE sound. Very affordable upgrade (around $60 from Parts Express) if you’re not quite ready to step up to a PinWoofer.

If you do this, you will also need the 5-1/4” speaker brackets which I purchased with my speaker light kit. Of course you could always go with 4” 4 Ohm speakers to use with the stock Premium brackets.

If using an external sub, you took a different approach and probably getting all the low-end you can handle! That said, I like the self-contained approach, which leaves the machine identical to the way it shipped from the manufacturer and can be sold without needing any explanations about extra boxes.

Looking at the installed picture you can see I did not add any type of amplifier and just moved the two wire connector from their OEM speaker to my CXX8 (some simple testing showed me that the built-in cabinet speaker amplifier has plenty of power... it was just missing the way to get the power out effectively). In a previous note I showed the Kicker DSC40's I installed in the backbox (uses the same 4-inch mounting), and coupled with the CXX8, I wanted to show a $75 all-in upgrade for the top and bottom that makes a big difference.

Yeah i understand your approach. I use alligator clips for the woofer signal, so I can easily remove those when selling the pin, have a "real" low-end and no need for explainations either. However I already upgraded the backbox speakers too for more clarity and now I'm wondering if I can get even get more out of it by upgrading the internal woofer, not for extra sub-bass but more defined mids and lows. I guess i have to try it, nothing lost with 30$ in the pinball world.

I reattached the bottom of Rex Ryan's jaw over the weekend. I was nervous about taking too many things apart because I know how temperamental he can be, so here's what worked for me:

1. After pulling out the playfield and extending it flat as far as it goes, I had easy access to the back panel
2. Then, I just removed the four screws holding the T-Rex mech in place (see highlights on schematic below)
3. This didn't require disconnecting anything else and gave me enough flex to rotate the head and screw in those three small screws that had fallen out
4. After reattaching the mech to the back panel, everything worked and no further adjustments were needed to get 'ole Rexy chomping and grabbing like before

I even put up a cool billion in my initial test game*

Our Pets' Heads Are Falling Off!

*My game is set to *ahem* fun

Bump for any wisdom?
It seems to be a sticky switch on the mid position. It activates too early even though I can't even see the switch arm moving. I checked the setscrew that holds the cam in place and that's tight. The cam itself will travel to the right positions when I works correctly. I don't know how to adjust the switch so it doesn't activate early and doesn't stick on. It's bolted to a plate with the rest of the assembly.
Picture with switch in question and the plate it's attached to.

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