Gotta have the mods

I like the helicopter idea! They could work some interesting patterns into that

Not sure I agree with the linear part though... It gets pretty tricky if you start trying to roam the map and collect perks strategically and stack modes.. if you try and straight shot it to the Visitor center without doing the trex, raptor, and control room sides, it could get repetitive in that respect

The way I look at it, the game really isn't laid out much differently from most newer games. Complete 3 or 4 modes and have a mini wizard mode. Have 3 or 4 mini wizard modes in the game and if you get to all of them then you get the big wizard mode.

For JP2, the map is visually the main focus so it's what a person is likely going to think about first, but really it's just one of three mini wizard paths you can go for (map progression to visitor center, control room progression to Secure Control Room, and T-Rex progression to Museum Mayhem). So overall the game is set up with different ways to play and different mini wizard modes to go for, but I think because of the visual of the map it gives the perception of the game being more linear than it really is.

To say it a different way: I'm guessing that, even though it wouldn't change the game at all, if there were playfield inserts for the control room modes leading to an insert for Secure Control Room and inserts for the T-Rex modes leading to an insert for Museum Mayhem the perception would be that it's not as linear as people sometimes think.

It would be nice to have an on screen display indicating progress on Control Room and T-Rex modes.

If only they'd built the "Dinosaurs On Noah's Ark" exhibit. That would've made them some god-like profits (prophets?) for sure!

Finally in the club!! Ordered it afew months ago and it finally showed up today. My first NIB! Loving it so far and installed the blade arts right away. More MODS to come!!

060D087A-C69B-4701-B5A1-10223B311DBD (resized).jpeg

8CD7C0EA-67B4-4FA5-90C1-020E6F2733C3 (resized).jpeg

C0055D3C-1A6F-492F-BC98-A45290FFD2DE (resized).jpeg

Picked up a premium. Playfield looks great! No pooling.

Recommendations on lighting upgrades as it seems a bit dim

Where did you get those palm trees from? They look awesome!!

I put Pinstadium Omegas (those are white only and no striping) on mine. Love it. Tried to take a before/after pic but the camera adjusts automatically so it's not obvious but what a difference in person.

They are a bit overkill though as they are set at 35% and are almost too bright. With HD glass I set them at 17% and that's enough. I "stole" the HD glass from my JPLE to put it on MMRRE so the pinstadiums help overcome the reflection issues.

So I just got my JP yesterday and played maybe 10 games and I already have dimpling... Is this something I should be worried about? I didn't get a playfield protector because I heard it affects the feel of the game. Thoughts?

No. Dimpling is going to happen. It is not an "issue".

Like anything, I think it’s personal preference. I don’t think of dimpling as damage like chipping, so I don’t put a protector on. It’s up to you how you feel about it though. If you don’t want dimpling, then put a protector on. I have a ton of dimpling on my JJP POTC but it doesn’t impact ball travel and I don’t mind it so I don’t put a protector on. My JP2 has WAY less dimpling than my POTC did after the same number of games played.

I have a very high end translite that came with my game. I was going to use it for wall art but I can't figure out a way to hang it so I'm going to sell it for $150 plus shipping, unless you want to pick it up in person. It's a direct transfer to acrylic. The previous owner paid $200+ dollars.

IMG_5634 (resized).JPG

IMG_5635 (resized).JPG

Hi guys! Im having a problem where my balls keep gets stuck right here. it looks like the post isn't all the way flash and the balls keeps getting caught on it. Anyone else having this problem? or can provide any tips before I take the glass off to get a better look. Thanks

77BBE4C7-DBDB-40AD-9530-4AAA406C2FA9 (resized).jpeg

Is your incline steep enough?

If the post isn’t flush it can be adjusted from under the playfield. Just turn the screw I’ve circled in this picture to lower the post until it’s flush.

705A5D08-CCFE-4D4B-B127-B3BACA6C538A (resized).jpeg

If your playfield is at 6.5-7.0 degrees angle, then the issue is your post isn't flush and need to be adjusted (as EaglePin has indicated)

Thank you guys!! I will try that I'm sure that's what it is I just didn't know how to adjust it. Thanks again! you guys are the best!!

Since I just got my JP, I am looking for some possible mods. What are considered "must-haves?"

Also, where can I get good custom apron cards?

I found some in the model aisle at hobby lobby

I got my Premium in mid June. In my opinion, the must have mods are Mezel's sign mods (Helipad, Pterendon,/Extra Ball, T-Rex Event, etc., Mezel's raptor cage, and a shaker. If in the budget, the Tilt Topper is awesome as well. A lot better topper than Stern's for the money.

I've added a few others like a Pterendon over the right loop ramp area, ULEK's East Dock sign, some palm trees for a jungle look from Modfather, a Matchbox JP Green Explorer, and Tilt's right ramp dinosaur track decal. Not sure I'd say those are all must haves but I like them.

20200725_000305 (resized).jpg

20200724_234748 (resized).jpg

I really dig the mosquito shooter rod. Got it from modfather and will add lightning like in the stern one soon.

The raptor watch tower from Mezel really completes the look. And I agree the shooter rod is really nice.

I have been looking for some nice apron cards as well. Anyone know where to find some?

You can buy them ready to install from Modfather as well. That is where I bought mine.

20200725_000208 (resized).jpg

A while ago I thought I read that someone was working on a T-Rex head mod for the PREM/LE i.e. a replacement mold. Anyone know if that's still a thing?

Finally got around to doing my last mod, one that I wanted to do for a long while..Turned out awesome I think.

Used a 9/64 drill bit to drill out the spun rivets in the matchbox helo and separated the 2 halves and removed the landing gear...then used a grinding wheel to flatten the top of the helo to give clearance for the metal blades while using the factory bushing plate mounted under the plastic (didn't change that setup at all). I then used a step cone bit on the top of the helo to widen a whole large enough to give the plastic sleeve for the rod and the washers connecting the blades with ample room to turn uninhibited. (Basically the helo just sits around the original post)... Finally used a dremel to give some clearance for the 3 screws on the helo pad and fastened the helo to the pad with 3M tape.

Pretty easy mod all together, just need the right tools to start.

Love how it turned out

Here's a video of it in action, click link below

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UZCWovuQw4dEjyZ-vRdhOq1uWxwUN_i4/view?usp=sharing



.

20200725_121524.jpg20200725_121532.jpg

Yeah. Here it is.

IMG_9085 (resized).jpg

Your link no workie...

Thanks..

I think I fixed it

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UZCWovuQw4dEjyZ-vRdhOq1uWxwUN_i4/view?usp=sharing

I made a little LED mod, which is subtle but i really like it- it always lights up when control room is ready.
I installed a LED behind the control room target and soldered it to the control room LED from below.
Just make sure the LED is bright enough and cover the top of the control room targets bracket with something black, because it can cause a nasty light reflection. Also use the right color of the control room, its light blue, don't use the standard blue like i did at first.

cntrl (1) (resized).jpg

cntrl (2) (resized).jpg

I’ve been thinking about doing this, as well Looks good!

This is spectacular! I've been waiting for someone to figure this out. I have a drill with general bits but it sounds like you do need to grind down the top of the helicopter itself and need some special "cone bit" in order to do this? I don't have a grinder unfortunately. Either way, well done man. Looks like it should have been from day one!

Thank you! I love these little things in pinball modding..There is a little curve to the roof of the helo, so i figured grinding it flat would be the best way to avoid interference...the metal is soft so i didn't want to bend it and risk flaring the sides...the step bit was just easier than a bunch of drill bits as you can judge the depth and hole on the fly, due to the required width of the washer on the sleeve of the post, the hole in the top is fairly large and actually exceeds the width of the helo a little bit on the sides, but it was necessary to give the washer/bearing/washer assembly room to turn without binding.

Did you ever hear anything about this or find a fix? My rex has been starting to do this exact thing over the past few days, and it seems the frequency is increasing. I, too, am still on v1.0 (to maintain Tim’s great audio package). The head starts the game fine, but then somehow during play something gets mixed up with (I assume) its programming and it thinks the position towards the habitrail is center.

Edit: I see a couple of people (beelzeboob, caker137) replied with a few different things they had done to resolve this issue in their own machines; have you tried and confirmed either fix, or for those other posters if you see this, have those solutions held up?

Finally decided to become more than a spectator on JP, and just got word that I have a 300 pound box in transit to me. It's a JP Premium manufactured a couple of weeks ago. After reading 116 pages of posts here, sounds like I could have plenty to keep me busy, after I unbox it and knock out a hundred games or so!

Sounds like first must-do: a few software setup adjustments are in order to reduce intensity of some coils that may be overpowered by default, sorting out any loose screws I find rattling around, adding a washer to the left side of shooter lane if needed, and perhaps I'll spring for the flipper bat top surface 'caution' decal mod.

My goal it to keep the glass ON and just play it as designed (if that is possible). 8-)

How do you start the game in the wizard mode. Tried searching for the last 1/2 hour but not finding it. Lots of talk about it but not how to start. Is there also a menu item that might be disabled?

No need to grind or take the copter apart. I explained this last week when I posted how I did it last week. Just drill a hole through the copter the size of the bushing and counter sink the screws into the flipper bushing (what is used to spin the blades).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/114

Perfect thanks. Second owner of my LE so thought maybe it might have been disabled.

So I accidentally order 3/8” flipper bands instead of the standard 1/2”. They are noticeably shorter on the flippers but initially I didn’t notice much difference. Is there a reason I should not just use the stock I accidentally ordered?

I have 3/8" on mine and have no issues with them.

Thanks, but I'm speaking to the Stern JP2 Prem/LE T-Rex head, not the Data East one. Anyone know if someone is working on this? My guess is no otherwise I would've probably found a recent post about it. I imagine it would be a lot of effort. It would be so awesome to know if any modders are looking into it.

I remember reading about this as well. Hopefully winteriscoming does it. The one he did for DE is amazing!

31482348-A629-4854-B271-1529DAB60D1E (resized).jpeg

F4C757E5-5150-4F2C-8A5C-F06FFE4044EF (resized).jpeg

TREX adjustment specialist, I need some help.

My T-Rex seems to have a mind of it's own now. When I first got my game it would always open it's mouth in the center of the ramp and ball catches were about 70% successful. After a month of ownership my TREX now will lower it's head and open it's mouth in very inconsistent places. I played one game last night to where the first TREX mode it lowered literally on the outside of the left of the ramp and opened it's mouth. The next two were perfect in the middle and the 4th time it was supposed the catch the ball it rested it's jaw on the top of the right side of the ramp. Because of where it was at it also blocked the ramp as the ball couldn't make it past the TREX neck. I had to drain the ball as I was roadblocked. Next ball pops in and the TREX goes back to where it should have been.

I've tried using the bias adjustments in the game with zero luck. It's almost as if the game loses track of center sometimes and the center point is different depending on if the head is moving from the left or right position. If moving right to left it centers itself most of the time. Moving from left to right it's almost always out of alignment.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only#post-5153032

JP custom apron cards

jp le shaker motor died on me single blue wire snapped on me. any ideas how to fix?

What's it look like? Sounds like a soldering job.

soldering part is good wire i do not know where it goes.