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(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!


By EightBallTexas

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,383 posts
  • 545 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by 2manyhobbies
  • Topic is favorited by 258 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

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#5701 4 months ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Mine makes the noises too.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZldA52vvB8AzL0-_jr2QZ3GtrZsMUI3e/view?usp=drivesdk

This is what mine sounds like it's way less loud with the game hoing on and the glass on.

#5702 4 months ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Mine makes the noises too.

Same here.

#5703 4 months ago

Ok then it seems to be normal. Thanks.

Now i just gotta sort out the thing with T-rex not catching the ball with the magnet even tough the shlt went inside the mouth

#5704 4 months ago

Have always felt that the helipad half pipe didn't do a great job of conveying that it needed to be shot with just the single yellow light on the sign, so decided to add an (appropriately-themed amber) LED strip at the top to help illuminate it and draw the eye when it was ready/required to shoot. Tied it into the same power as the yellow light, so it only lights when the shot is available. First time soldering onto a pin, only my second time soldering ever!

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#5705 4 months ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Have always felt that the helipad half pipe didn't do a great job of conveying that it needed to be shot with just the single yellow light on the sign, so decided to add an (appropriately-themed amber) LED strip at the top to help illuminate it and draw the eye when it was ready/required to shoot. Tied it into the same power as the yellow light, so it only lights when the shot is available. First time soldering onto a pin, only my second time soldering ever!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job.

#5706 4 months ago

Great idea.

#5707 4 months ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Have always felt that the helipad half pipe didn't do a great job of conveying that it needed to be shot with just the single yellow light on the sign, so decided to add an (appropriately-themed amber) LED strip at the top to help illuminate it and draw the eye when it was ready/required to shoot. Tied it into the same power as the yellow light, so it only lights when the shot is available. First time soldering onto a pin, only my second time soldering ever!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

what a great idea! looks very nice! just the L bracked is not looking good. maybe there is a nicer way to hide the LEDs

there is a little slit, maybe thats enough for the light, ill check that out too.

asdffdsa (resized).png
#5708 4 months ago

for those that love dino's and have more money then god maybe a warehouse or big lot at pinball conventions.
*Crocodile Dundie voice* Huh thats not a topper mate..this is a Topper!
Looks like the company has gone belly up and all the assets are going up for auction.

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/dinosaur-auction-in-langley-1.5651547?__vfz=medium%3Dsharebar&fbclid=IwAR1IBByJCdzERAk0wdu2T8DJ3ly3qBBrt5EQ2cPuCw_WzpEqpbTnNwdV5oU

#5709 4 months ago

For those of you with a shaker, how is the implementation?
I don’t like games that just shake for the sake of shaking. But since the LE comes with one and the game is about dinosaurs, it seems like a well programmed shaker could add to the experience.

#5710 4 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

For those of you with a shaker, how is the implementation?
I don’t like games that just shake for the sake of shaking. But since the LE comes with one and the game is about dinosaurs, it seems like a well programmed shaker could add to the experience.

I added one to my premium about 6 months after getting it and I'm glad I did every time I play. It is well integrated - as you say, the game is perfect for a well implemented shaker with the dinos footsteps, roaring, etc.

#5711 4 months ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

For those of you with a shaker, how is the implementation?
I don’t like games that just shake for the sake of shaking. But since the LE comes with one and the game is about dinosaurs, it seems like a well programmed shaker could add to the experience.

Yep it's awesome - there's an option in the settings to adjust how much you want the shaker used during gameplay, which is a great feature if you don't want it going off constantly.

#5712 4 months ago

I just got the premium with shaker motor. There is a part not sure when (when t-Rex is fed and roars?) that when the shaker is activated there is a lot of loud vibration I think coming from the glass. Does this happen to anyone or is this normal?

#5713 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

what a great idea! looks very nice! just the L bracked is not looking good. maybe there is a nicer way to hide the LEDs
there is a little slit, maybe thats enough for the light, ill check that out too.[quoted image]

Yeah the bracket isn’t fantastic if you’re looking right at it, but it was just about the best option that I could figure, and thankfully it blends in when you’re not sitting there looking at it specifically (i.e. while playing). The slit between the sides and half pipe itself was my original thought, but a) the LED strip was *just* too thick to go through, and b) I ultimately decided I didn’t want the strip anywhere that the ball could contact and potentially be disrupted. The LED strip laying on the back of the half pipe, shining through the slit, provided an okay amount of light, but not as much (obviously) as where the bracket has it now. I also considered affixing the strip to the Helipad sign post on the left of the ball entrance, but it illuminated too much else for my tastes, so again came back to the bracket. If you had a properly colored LED, you could probably just point a spotlight at the half pipe, but then you’ve got an entire spotlight unit dedicated to that, and to look at, so *shrug*. It got to a point where I decided it was just time to get the damn thing in the game hah, and the bracket was the most effective, so here we are

If anyone else implements this, though, and does find a more elegant solution, please share! I’m sure there is another way to go about it, even if it’s still this bracket route and you just take the time to hide the bracket. But as I said, even with how I have it, you don’t notice it at all if you’re not sitting there staring at it specifically, so it’s not terrible in the end!

#5714 4 months ago
Quoted from bloodydrake:

for those that love dino's and have more money then god maybe a warehouse or big lot at pinball conventions.
*Crocodile Dundie voice* Huh thats not a topper mate..this is a Topper!
Looks like the company has gone belly up and all the assets are going up for auction.

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/dinosaur-auction-in-langley-1.5651547?__vfz=medium%3Dsharebar&fbclid=IwAR1IBByJCdzERAk0wdu2T8DJ3ly3qBBrt5EQ2cPuCw_WzpEqpbTnNwdV5oU

Lol, that would be fun to get. Set one up next to a pin and rig it to chomp when you drain.

#5715 4 months ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Yeah the bracket isn’t fantastic if you’re looking right at it, but it was just about the best option that I could figure, and thankfully it blends in when you’re not sitting there looking at it specifically (i.e. while playing). The slit between the sides and half pipe itself was my original thought, but a) the LED strip was *just* too thick to go through, and b) I ultimately decided I didn’t want the strip anywhere that the ball could contact and potentially be disrupted. The LED strip laying on the back of the half pipe, shining through the slit, provided an okay amount of light, but not as much (obviously) as where the bracket has it now. I also considered affixing the strip to the Helipad sign post on the left of the ball entrance, but it illuminated too much else for my tastes, so again came back to the bracket. If you had a properly colored LED, you could probably just point a spotlight at the half pipe, but then you’ve got an entire spotlight unit dedicated to that, and to look at, so *shrug*. It got to a point where I decided it was just time to get the damn thing in the game hah, and the bracket was the most effective, so here we are
If anyone else implements this, though, and does find a more elegant solution, please share! I’m sure there is another way to go about it, even if it’s still this bracket route and you just take the time to hide the bracket. But as I said, even with how I have it, you don’t notice it at all if you’re not sitting there staring at it specifically, so it’s not terrible in the end!

i gave it a shot too. i jammed 2 LEDs under the metal where the wireform is attached and i soldered them like you did. i hope you can see it from the images, they are so tiny, its hard to spot them. lets see how it holds up over time.

jpled (3) (resized).jpgjpled (1) (resized).jpgjpled (2) (resized).jpg

#5716 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

i gave it a shot too. i jammed 2 LEDs under the metal where the wireform is attached and i soldered them like you did. i hope you can see it from the images, they are so tiny, its hard to spot them. lets see how it holds up over time.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like that approach on the lights

I hate to point this out but your sideblade art is getting wrecked by lifting the playfield without any guards in place.

I use these

https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-cabinet-assembly-blades

#5717 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

i gave it a shot too. i jammed 2 LEDs under the metal where the wireform is attached and i soldered them like you did. i hope you can see it from the images, they are so tiny, its hard to spot them. lets see how it holds up over time.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is a great alternative! I don't expect those tiny LEDs should ever really expect to get hit by the ball down there, either. I had the LED strip on hand, so worked with what I could, but I'll have to instead look to get some lil' 3mm LEDs in the appropriate color and rework it like you've got it here Very nice!

Did you affix them at all, or are they just held in place between the wireform and the walls of the half pipe by their size and tension?

#5718 4 months ago
Quoted from medic7000:

when the shaker is activated there is a lot of loud vibration I think coming from the glass

This has worked great for me:

https://pinballpro.net/shop/anti-rattle-tape-ar-1/

#5719 4 months ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

That is a great alternative! I don't expect those tiny LEDs should ever really expect to get hit by the ball down there, either. I had the LED strip on hand, so worked with what I could, but I'll have to instead look to get some lil' 3mm LEDs in the appropriate color and rework it like you've got it here Very nice!
Did you affix them at all, or are they just held in place between the wireform and the walls of the half pipe by their size and tension?

yes they are jammed in there very tight, to the point im afraid to break the cable. The ball can't touch the LED, no way.
You could hot glue there too if you want, but i dont like that. The LEDs could be brighter to my taste.
Best solution would be, to drill two hols in the back of the ramp (on the sides where the ball doesnt touch the metal) to make room for the LEDs.
May i ask where you bought your LED strip, i need some of those!

fooflighter
thanks, after the first scratch i decided to simply remove the sideblades when selling the machine and use mirrorblades in the future, since on my first machine the mirrorblades didnt get any damge at all.

#5720 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

yes they are jammed in there very tight, to the point im afraid to break the cable. The ball can't touch the LED, no way.
You could hot glue there too if you want, but i dont like that. The LEDs could be brighter to my taste.
Best solution would be, to drill two hols in the back of the ramp (on the sides where the ball doesnt touch the metal) to make room for the LEDs.
May i ask where you bought your LED strip, i need some of those!
fooflighter
thanks, after the first scratch i decided to simply remove the sideblades when selling the machine and use mirrorblades in the future, since on my first machine the mirrorblades didnt get any damge at all.

I don't need them (protectors) on my Star Wars - just JP, that metal brackets that is near the 180 halfpipe is what grabs if it's not perfectly centered sliding back in

#5721 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

May i ask where you bought your LED strip, i need some of those!

Comet Pinball (cometpinball.com) is where I got the LED strip, as well as the 3” extension wire that I ran from it to the PCB

#5722 4 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I like that approach on the lights
I hate to point this out but your sideblade art is getting wrecked by lifting the playfield without any guards in place.
I use these
https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-cabinet-assembly-blades

Highly recommend these. I have side blades on all of my games and use these every time I need to lift the playfield. They will definitely protect the side blades and take less 30 seconds to install.

#5723 4 months ago

Anyone have any video of how the ball is supposed to exit the right ramp wireform to the upper flipper? Mine exits and bounces quite a bit making that shot to the tower very difficult. I gotta imagine it should exit more cleanly.

#5724 4 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Anyone have any video of how the ball is supposed to exit the right ramp wireform to the upper flipper? Mine exits and bounces quite a bit making that shot to the tower very difficult. I gotta imagine it should exit more cleanly.

Covered so many times in this thread. Search “upper flipper”. You have to adjust the wireform spiral ramp..

#5725 4 months ago

Thanks! Was fumbling around searching and couldn’t find the right words to hit on the solution. I’ll give that a shot. Someone should make that a sticky topic!

#5726 4 months ago

I have always played with the lights turn on because the playfield was too dark in the middle, however I like the arcade feel of the dark setting. I wanted to experiment with the idea of pin stadiums without dropping $300, I decided to build a prototype version of their x-stream version that can move from game to game easily. I was surprised how easy this project could be and what a difference it could make. I’ll post pictures but essentially a $15 LED strip, $2 worth of plastic and $5 worth of Velcro works. You could get black plastic and a few other things to make it look less tacky but whatever. Oh yeah, the candy cane effect of lights is more pronounced on camera than actual.

47784481-F359-489F-B07A-A1E811DA8F2B (resized).jpeg3474FD3A-C2C2-4993-88CA-2DFD54F01882 (resized).jpeg0B668179-8D89-4A60-8B2F-D0E5881C820F (resized).jpeg
#5727 4 months ago

I would just add a couple of LED spots pointed at the middle, rather than overkill the playfield (both light-wise and cost-wise) with PinStadiums.

Worked great on my IMDN functionally and I love the resultant aesthetic effect too!

#5728 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

i gave it a shot too. i jammed 2 LEDs under the metal where the wireform is attached and i soldered them like you did. i hope you can see it from the images, they are so tiny, its hard to spot them. lets see how it holds up over time.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get those LEDs? That would be perfect for my helicopter. I wanted to light up the cockpit when the ramp was lit.

20200714_211828 (resized).jpg
#5729 4 months ago

I feel like Raptor multiball has a bug/opportunity for improvement when playing multiplayer. It seems that if one player locks a ball in the raptor pit, the next player can start multiball with extra gate hits, I don’t have an issue with this. My complaint is that when the player who locked the first ball gets back to their turn, it seems the gate should raise and only require the necessary amount of gate hits to start multiball, then the game could shoot two new balls into play instead of the normal add one to make it a three ball multiball. Also I noticed that after multiple players had unlocked raptor multiball the game would occasionally stop raising the gate and players could only start raptor multiball with a bunch of target hits. Can someone explain if this is by design, a bug, or expected?

Running code 1.02.0

#5730 4 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Where did you get those LEDs? That would be perfect for my helicopter. I wanted to light up the cockpit when the ramp was lit.[quoted image]

nice idea, i bought them here in europe, but it was something like this with 5V

ebay.com link » 3mm 5mm Red Green Blue Rgb 3v 5v 12v Dc Round Pre Wired Water Clear Led

#5731 4 months ago

So I bought pinnovator adapter and attached the Polk psw10 subwoofer to my JP premium. The game definitely sounds better with the sub. This is my first pinball machine with a sub but wondering if a better sub will make a difference in more bass. Anyone ever compared other subs with the psw10? Should I different sub for better quality?

#5732 4 months ago
Quoted from medic7000:

So I bought pinnovator adapter and attached the Polk psw10 subwoofer to my JP premium. The game definitely sounds better with the sub. This is my first pinball machine with a sub but wondering if a better sub will make a difference in more bass. Anyone ever compared other subs with the psw10? Should I different sub for better quality?

Polk's PSW10 is a nice sub and I doubt that you'll notice a worthwhile difference with a better (and more expensive) one. I've tried others, but have Polks under most of my games and I think the PSW10 is the best bang for your pinball buck out there. Especially if you grab them when they're on sale for $79.99!

#5733 4 months ago

I'm sure it's answered somewhere already on pinside, but my right flipper all of a sudden feels weaker than the left one. They both have the same power setting. I don't think it's my imagination. What is the first thing to check for that? I've heard "about crappy coil stops" on Stern games. I don't know what that is though. Any chance that's the issue and how would I check? Thanks in advance for any help!!!!

#5734 4 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

I'm sure it's answered somewhere already on pinside, but my right flipper all of a sudden feels weaker than the left one. They both have the same power setting. I don't think it's my imagination. What is the first thing to check for that? I've heard "about crappy coil stops" on Stern games. I don't know what that is though. Any chance that's the issue and how would I check? Thanks in advance for any help!!!!

Here's a post with a picture of what it looked like on mine. There should be a rivet/bump of metal where the empty circle is:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/48#post-5275530

Even if you look at it and see that the rivet is there, take the coil stop off and check to see that it's not just sitting there loose. It's just a couple screws so very easy to take the coil stop on and off.

#5735 4 months ago

Does anyone else have an issue where a ball will fly into/behind the raptor figure in between the two clear plastics there and get stuck? (i.e. in between the tower model and next to/behind the raptor)? It's been driving me bonkers b/c when that happens it requires pulling the glass off to retrieve it, often with a magnet and losing your game. It seems the "dual" plastics there are supposed to prevent that but they don't on my LE. They like to "trap" the ball instead. Hopefully this pic shows the area where this happens often. Anyone aware of a way to prevent this? I will say that the tower mod might be partially to blame because that one plastic it comes with does tends to contact the tower wall itself "bending" it up/downwards from it's expected position.
Raptor (resized).jpg

#5736 4 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Does anyone else have an issue where a ball will fly into/behind the raptor figure in between the two clear plastics there and get stuck? (i.e. in between the tower model and next to/behind the raptor)? It's been driving me bonkers b/c when that happens it requires pulling the glass off to retrieve it, often with a magnet and losing your game. It seems the "dual" plastics there are supposed to prevent that but they don't on my LE. They like to "trap" the ball instead. Hopefully this pic shows the area where this happens often. Anyone aware of a way to prevent this? I will say that the tower mod might be partially to blame because that one plastic it comes with does tends to contact the tower wall itself "bending" it up/downwards from it's expected position.
[quoted image]

This happens to me once every hundred games or so, it’s been so rare I haven’t even attempted a fix. I just put the ball back in the shooter lane to avoid losing the ball. I seem to get more air balls since replacing with Marco standards, maybe they are a little less heavy or more polished and move quicker.

#5737 4 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Here's a post with a picture of what it looked like on mine. There should be a rivet/bump of metal where the empty circle is:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/48#post-5275530
Even if you look at it and see that the rivet is there, take the coil stop off and check to see that it's not just sitting there loose. It's just a couple screws so very easy to take the coil stop on and off.

Thank you for the quick response. Best part of pinside.

#5738 4 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Does anyone else have an issue where a ball will fly into/behind the raptor figure in between the two clear plastics there and get stuck? (i.e. in between the tower model and next to/behind the raptor)? It's been driving me bonkers b/c when that happens it requires pulling the glass off to retrieve it, often with a magnet and losing your game. It seems the "dual" plastics there are supposed to prevent that but they don't on my LE. They like to "trap" the ball instead. Hopefully this pic shows the area where this happens often. Anyone aware of a way to prevent this? I will say that the tower mod might be partially to blame because that one plastic it comes with does tends to contact the tower wall itself "bending" it up/downwards from it's expected position.
[quoted image]

I've had it happen a couple of times where the ball goes between those plastics (I don't have the tower mod). Clearly the top plastic is there to stop ball hangs but it needed to be closer to the bottom plastic to avoid allowing the ball to squeeze in between. From your description, this area seems to be worsened for ball hangs with the tower mod - can you trim the plastic that makes contact with the tower wall so that it can sit flat and allow balls landing on top of it to run down and off the plastic?

As gtrefraction eluded to, you don't need to lose your game when retrieving a hung ball - if you leave the coin door open it'll disable the solenoids, then once you've retrieved the ball drop it into the shooter lane and replace the glass and lockdown bar. Once you close the coin door the solenoids will be re-enabled and it'll shoot the ball back into play.

#5739 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I've had it happen a couple of times where the ball goes between those plastics (I don't have the tower mod). Clearly the top plastic is there to stop ball hangs but it needed to be closer to the bottom plastic to avoid allowing the ball to squeeze in between. From your description, this area seems to be worsened for ball hangs with the tower mod - can you trim the plastic that makes contact with the tower wall so that it can sit flat and allow balls landing on top of it to run down and off the plastic?
As gtrefraction eluded to, you don't need to lose your game when retrieving a hung ball - if you leave the coin door open it'll disable the solenoids, then once you've retrieved the ball drop it into the shooter lane and replace the glass and lockdown bar. Once you close the coin door the solenoids will be re-enabled and it'll shoot the ball back into play.

You guys both have good points. Yes I have the Marco balls and see more flys (didn't know that was a thing). For me it's much more frequent that what you guys have witnessed. I will try "shaving" the plastic so that it doesn't contact the modded tower. I say this b/c when it does happen the plastic has touched the modded tower and turned itself up/down. I feel like it's a design issue, mod or not. Hoping to hear if anyone without the tower mod who has this issue. Would be cool if someone made a "blocker", perhaps some kind of vertical clear plastic to avoid this altogether. No clue how that would work/how it would mount tho.

Anyway really appreciate the insight here guys. I'll report back!

#5740 4 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Does anyone else have an issue where a ball will fly into/behind the raptor figure in between the two clear plastics there and get stuck? (i.e. in between the tower model and next to/behind the raptor)? It's been driving me bonkers b/c when that happens it requires pulling the glass off to retrieve it, often with a magnet and losing your game. It seems the "dual" plastics there are supposed to prevent that but they don't on my LE. They like to "trap" the ball instead. Hopefully this pic shows the area where this happens often. Anyone aware of a way to prevent this? I will say that the tower mod might be partially to blame because that one plastic it comes with does tends to contact the tower wall itself "bending" it up/downwards from it's expected position.
[quoted image]

Here's what I have done and it works 100% and takes 2 seconds.

I used a clear post (superbands due to it's thickness) and cut it to fit just slightly larger than the opening between the two plastics.

I didn't use glue, or anything, literally just wedge it between...I don't see it, forget it's there, and it prevents the clear plastic from flexing and allowing the ball back there...I've played over 500 games like this and haven't had the issue since.

Also, I am using the raptor tower mod
20200719_220949.jpg20200719_221007.jpg

#5741 4 months ago

Adjusted my upper right wireform today to feed the upper flipper more smoothly. What a different game this is now! Kind of a pain to adjust but now that the wireform exits much closer to the side rail it feeds it so smooth! No more bouncing or side to side deflections.

#5742 4 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Adjusted my upper right wireform today to feed the upper flipper more smoothly. What a different game this is now! Kind of a pain to adjust but now that the wireform exits much closer to the side rail it feeds it so smooth! No more bouncing or side to side deflections.

How high is the wire form drop supposed to be?

#5743 4 months ago

The right-most exit wire for me is just above the siderail, pretty much sitting atop it. I'd have to measure my exact drop though I didn't bend the end of it down towards the playfield any further.

#5744 4 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's what I have done and it works 100% and takes 2 seconds.
I used a clear post (superbands due to it's thickness) and cut it to fit just slightly larger than the opening between the two plastics.
I didn't use glue, or anything, literally just wedge it between...I don't see it, forget it's there, and it prevents the clear plastic from flexing and allowing the ball back there...I've played over 500 games like this and haven't had the issue since.
Also, I am using the raptor tower mod
[quoted image][quoted image]

This looks like a viable prevention! However, you say you just wedge it in there with no fastening. Is the pressure of the two plastics with that clear post in between actually enough to keep that "wedge"/clear post it in there? It seems like that would be prone to getting knocked out onto the playfield itself. I mean, you said 500 games and no issue so I'm not trying to doubt you. Just seems a bit scary to have no adhesive. I'll give that a shot though since I have some extra post superbands that I'm not using. Thanks brotha!

#5745 4 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

This looks like a viable prevention! However, you say you just wedge it in there with no fastening. Is the pressure of the two plastics with that clear post in between actually enough to keep that "wedge"/clear post it in there? It seems like that would be prone to getting knocked out onto the playfield itself. I mean, you said 500 games and no issue so I'm not trying to doubt you. Just seems a bit scary to have no adhesive. I'll give that a shot though since I have some extra post superbands that I'm not using. Thanks brotha!

Yes all the post is doing is holding up/supporting the plastic, the plastic does all of the heavy lifting...any balls deflecting into the edge simply get deflected like they were probably supposed to...

Just make sure the fit is tight, so cutting it a little too big and trimming while eyeballing and test fitting it to where the plastic is almost level and the clear post is snug is all I did

In theory they had a good idea, they just needed that first level plastic to be thicker and resist flexing, or have a post permanently affixed to the other end.

Probably a good mod opportunity for someone with an acrylic cutter to fashion a thicker piece to match

#5746 4 months ago

Anyone getting airballs by shooting the spinner perfectly from the right flipper.?
sometimes it goes up into the hex-spacer-post of the pteranoton ramp resulting in a total ball stop.

#5747 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

Anyone getting airballs by shooting the spinner perfectly from the right flipper.?
sometimes it goes up into the hex-spacer-post of the pteranoton ramp resulting in a total ball stop.

I get some hop there but haven’t looked for a cure yet. It doesn’t get stuck up there so I don’t find it too problematic.

#5748 4 months ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

Anyone getting airballs by shooting the spinner perfectly from the right flipper.?
sometimes it goes up into the hex-spacer-post of the pteranoton ramp resulting in a total ball stop.

Yes, but only when I'm having my best game ever. It's happened 4 times that I can think of, and the glass needs to be slid down to free the ball. I haven't looked into a fix, but i imagine something could be done.

16
#5749 4 months ago

I finally did it. Made it to the Visitor Center, accidentally took the hard route but still captured the Trex. Highest game I've had yet! Almost broke 1.5 billion ...Man it only took over 3000 games.

20200722_131953 (resized).jpg20200722_132527 (resized).jpg20200722_132509 (resized).jpg20200722_132535 (resized).jpg

#5750 4 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I finally did it. Made it to the Visitor Center, accidentally took the hard route but still captured the Trex. Highest game I've had yet! Almost broke 1.5 billion ...Man it only took over 3000 games.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Got enough mods on that game?

Congrats though. I've only ever gotten to 4 paddocks so far. They should add some kind of option to unlock a helicopter ride up to another paddock. Maybe make it possible to skip a few. You lose the points from the paddocks but get further in the game. This game is a little too linear in my opinion, as much as I love it.

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