I thought that might be a code thing. After checking it out a little more, even at game start up he doesn’t move like he used to.

Thought it was Fixed, worked once after the code update. I had 1.00 and the update to 1.01 got everything moving again.

Our game was doing that so we pulled it apart over the week end.

Turns out the screw that holds the link for the jaw coil had fallen out. Link is what makes the jaw open.

To test this on your machine, go to single coil test and test the Trex jaw. You will see if the jaw is working or not.

Good luck!

thanks for the help PA, jaw works fine. When doing the T-Rex horizontal and vertical tests, it says please wait, homing motors, then moves the head one direction and never stops running the motor without moving anything. Maybe it’s a positioning sensor? Not sure how to test for that.

By chance, did you install an aftermarket shaker motor? I had issues after doing that where the T-Rex was out to lunch and vertical test mode went horizontal. For me it all started after shaker install. So I unplugged and rebooted and T-Rex came to life. I was able to plug it back in and get the shaker back. Something to check...

Sorry, I did not look into our game that far. I am sure there will be some on here that has and will help you out.

I had that happen to mine. My actuator kept sliding down the shaft so it was below the switch and never hit it. I had to drill out the set screw and install a new one

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My airbrush Kit for Jurassic park premium is finished

Seems like my T-Rex is now only catching ball half the time or less. Has to be a perfect shot. Is this normal?

Thanks

You are definitely very talented. I like the speaker panel and legs a lot.. Personally I dislike the caution tape look. It's a Road Show thing not JP (in my opinion of course). In fact I challenge anyone to find a scene with caution tape in the original movie lol...

Having issue in new out of box JP premium where the T-Rex shakes on startup. Stops during ball one at some time. Does not pick up ball at times and also the ball gets stuck under the T Rex at times when he is in up position and I hit that ramp. Called Stern and they say email. The old Stern tech support seems to be gone.???
The owners manual for this game sucks too. Only good for repair issues, parts identification.

Exaclty.

There's a ton of stuff in this game that's not in the movie. I think it looks good.

Hey, all! Wanted to put out a couple pieces of info for my NIB JP Premium, made June 5, 2020, which arrived at my distributor on July 7th, 2020:

1. No pooling or chipping on the playfield (or defects otherwise) that I have seen
2. I don't personally care, because it's bound to happen and it doesn't affect gameplay, but I've seen others here who were curious, so: my playfield started seeing dimpling from the ball basically immediately
3. My game shipped with the incorrect, green spring on the plunger (it is supposed to be the higher-tension orange spring). I have reached out to my distributor, who has been in touch with Stern, who confirmed the incorrect spring, and is sending out a replacement
4. My game shipped with the red/orange rubbers on the flippers
5. Interestingly enough, despite the 1.01 code dropping in April and my game having been made in June, my game shipped with 1.00 code

Loving the game, fickle and brutal as she may be

Update: A few other things to mention:

6. The raptor toy's tail was not a tight enough loop at the end, and so was hitting and being restricted by the metal plate at the tower. I had to bend the tail more to allow clearance so that the raptor could move up and down freely

7. The top fork of the rail leading into the raptor tower was bent in slightly, allowing the plastic piece above it to protrude and make contact with the ball. I used a tool and bent that fork out a bit to be flush with or be slightly proud of the plastic so that the ball contacts it instead

8. I can't quite tell if my flippers are out of alignment or not; the bottom flippers are not 100% identical as far as where they're lined up on the alignment holes, but I don't think it's been a big enough deal to get in and mess with them. The one thing I'm curious about though seems less an alignment issue, and maybe more a general placement issue compared to the plastic of the inlanes - if the ball is rolling down the inlane very slowly, as after an aggressive post pass or from a floaty ball finally bouncing into the inlane, there is not a smooth transition from inlane to flipper, but rather, there is a slight bounce as the ball moves onto the flipper, like the knuckle of the rubber at the top of the flipper is sticking out above the inlane, or that the gap between the inlane plastic and the flipper is too large or something. Is this normal? I've tried testing and comparing on my Star Wars premium, and I've tried watching game play online from others closely, and I *think* I've seen the same thing happening, but I'm not completely sure. Can anyone speak to this? Is this how it's supposed to be in general, or does this sound like a defect?

Hmmm. My game was also June 5 and has a silver spring. What's the deal with springs?

How are the inserts on your game?

Haven't noticed any issues, and have no complaints!

As far as the spring question: The spring on the inside portion of your plunger, the tension spring, should be orange colored. Are you referring to the silver spring on the outside of the cabinet? That is always silver, but you'll want to check the spring on the plunger beneath the playfield to see if it is the correct color. If it's not orange, contact your distributor to get you the proper tension spring!

Mine isn't orange either. Mine was also an early June build. Sounds like when they got back to building games from the factory re-opening they forgot that part. Easy enough to fix though.

How loud are your T-rex heads? Mine sounds like the gears are grinding. I have the game at sound volume 14 and can hear it moving over the music and callouts.

I can definitely hear the T-Rex moving, but I don't think I've noticed it sounding grind-y.

mine is a june & it sounds like grinding gears too. I sent stern a video but they said it was normal.

sometimes when I get the "shoot the t-rex" message the t-rex has comes down is resting it's jaw on the wire form instead of being down in the ramp. since the t-rex isn't int he ramp, shooting the ramp won't start multiball. basically, anytime that happens, you can't shoot the t-rex. over the weekend it happened about 3 times. I kept trying to get a photo of it but I was too slow.

take the glass off. it'll sound grindy then

great as always Marco...

I loosened the inlane ball guides and lined them up better with the flippers. You can also use a straight edge/metal ruler to help line them up. Smooth as butter now.

Slow-motion video from your phone will help you diagnose the issue.

So *should* it be a smooth, bounceless transition from inlane to flipper, or is it just more of a "why not make it smooth and bounceless?" Just curious

Ditto.

June 1 build.

Same here, from about 3/4 catches it went down to 1/2 in the last few weeks.

For me it’s a ‘should’ as a running ball will be more accurate if it’s not bouncing but I imagine not everyone shares my view. I’m a bit fanatical with making my machines run as perfect as possible.

Is it possible to get it perfect on JP2 though? Just curious because on mine when the ball is held and released at the left inlane post the ball is slow enough that it seems to fall just a bit into the gap between the end of the guide and the start of the flipper and causes a bit of hop. On my POTC the gap between the end of the guide and the start of the flipper seems just a bit smaller than the similar gap on JP2 so I don't get hop on any balls transitioning to the flipper regardless of how fast or slow they're going.

I've adjusted the JP2 guide up slightly (nudging toward the backbox) to eliminate the hop from balls coming faster down the inlane since those are going fast enough so they don't dip into that gap. I get smooth transitions from guide to flipper when balls are going medium or faster speed but it doesn't seem like the guide can be nudged toward the flipper to reduce that gap, so I still get a bit of hop on slower balls released from the post.

I agree with that sentiment, that it "should" run as smoothly (and thus accurately) as possible, personally! Just curious if this is the intended design of pins or whether it is a mistake that should technically be fixed, rather than due to personal preference. I suppose at the end of the day, though, it's HUO, so it all comes down to preference anyway

My guides didn't seem to have any play when I loosened the screws to try and adjust them yesterday :/

Yes, I meant front to back when talking about adjusting the guide.

I agree in that I do not think you can change the gap between the flipper and the guide. I was able to move the guide to be essentially perfectly in line with the flipper... guess that’s a better way of saying it. And that has helped my shots quite a bit.

Game code 1.02:

V1.02.0 - July 8th, 2020
===========================
- DNA Combos - Added awards for completing DNA combos:
- Extra ball is lit at (adjustable) 8 DNA combos
- Wildcard fossil is awarded for completing all 11 DNA combos
- Escape Nublar Challenge - Added "COMPETITION CHALLENGE" option to play Escape Nublar with randomness removed, access by holding both flippers and selecting.
- Rescues will appear in the same order each time:
- Left Ramp & Right Ramp (Visitor's Center)
- Spinner & Tower (plus Helipad and Control Room if dino was not captured)
- Helipad, Control Room, and Right Loop (plus Left Ramp and Right Ramp if dino was not captured)
- Rescues will then start at the left most shots and move around the playfield clockwise three positions
- Exit (red arrow) phase has these changes:
- Finding the correct exit will happen after a certain number of attempts:
- 1 shot:
- VISITOR'S CENTER, PTERANODON, VELOCIRAPTOR
- 2 shots:
- COMPSOGNATHUS, STEGOSAURUS, SPINOSAURUS
- 3 shots:
- TYRANASAURUS_REX, ANKYLOSAURUS, TRICERATOPS
- 4 shots:
- DILOPHOSAURUS, BRACHIOSAURUS, GALLIMIMUS
- The Raptor Pen back target will count as 2 exit shots
- The Pops Target will count as 3 exit shots
- Smart Missile - fixed an issue where the Left Inlane Up Post would not be held up for Smart Missile when the T-Rex was attempting to catch a ball
- Chaos Multiball - added callouts for 2x and 4x Chaos Hurry Up (truck facing left = 2x, double scoring active = 2x)
- Chaos Multiball - total now includes the hurry up value
- Raptor Multiball - added callouts for 2x, 4x, and 8x Raptor Super Jackpots (ball locked in raptor pen = 2x, double scoring active = 2x, raptor perk = 2x)
- Escape - improve ball save handling on left outlane during certain modes
- Combos - Added combo indicator (red flasher above 2x target) that pulses while combo is active
- High Score Tables - added Top Paleontologist (Fossil Champ) award
- High Score Tables - fixed DNA Champ award to allow most recent full dna collection to show on high scores
- Invalid Frenzy - added more additional names to the list of error names
- Game Restart - added callouts when starting a new game through Start Button Hold
- Powerup - power up sequence now shows game name and actual PRO / PREM / LE model
- Topper - fixing an issue with topper letters where power cycling with 12 letters lit would cause the Topper Mode to not be able to be started
- Sound Test - added 'Welcome to Jurassic Park' full track to sound test

- Adjustment Changes:
- added 'DNA COMBOS EXTRA BALL' - defaults to 8, min / max: 11, when this number of DNA combos is collected you will light Extra Ball

- System - Updated to V2.53
- Updated to nodeboard firmware v0.62.0
- Update TARGET_GAME_TIME adjustment to ensure a minimal ballsaver even after
the target game time is met.
- Do not display LOCATING NODE BOARD at boot when coin door interlock switch
has disabled node board power.
- Improve backbox and cabinet audio synchronization.
- Update the HSTD reset counter when the Standard Adjustment is changed

Thanks. Does yours hop also when releasing from the post? Out of curiosity I measured to check if what I thought I was seeing on my games was correct. The gap between the end of the straight edge of the ball guide to the flipper is about 1/2” on JP2. On my POTC it’s about 3/8”. Not much different but it seems make a difference. My STTNG is similar to the JP2 distance, but on that one the flipper edge is a bit offset lower than the edge of the ball guide (see the gap between the ruler and the flipper in the pic) so it doesn’t ever hop like my JP2.

Seems like the gap distance combined with the flipper edge being lined up closer with the edge line of the ball guide on JP2 makes it hop a bit on the releases from the post. Not a big deal but I thought it was interesting. At least now I know I probably can’t do anything to eliminate hop when releasing from the post so I can stop thinking about it

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sometimes my t-rex comes down on the wireform & rests it's chin there instead of lowering into the ramp. today during 1 game it happened 3 times. I feel like I posted about this before but it's always hard to snap a pic of it. i'm still running v1 of the code & don't believe updating to 1.02 is going to make a difference. still, I'm gonna try that before taking things apart.

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Mine doesn’t really hop much anymore. I don’t think it’s so much the gap as it is the guide’s alignment with the flipper. My guide lines up with my flipper on JP2.

I’ll take a pic like you did with a straightedge when I get home.

Can you loosen the ball guide and adjust it so it sits slightly higher than the flipper? I had this issue on a Whirlwind I recently restored and the hop went away after I did this.

This happened to me, but you're not going to like what I have to say. I contacted Stern twice but they ignored my emails. Not sure what the problem is, but I think I adjusted the left/right whatever it's called in the menu, and it doesn't seem to happen anymore, if at all. (It's the left/right settings on the head motion in the menu...can't remember what it's called.)

Thanks, I saw those were options but didn't play w/ them because when she doesn't get stuck on the wire form she lands nicely in the ramp & drops the ball nicely in the wireform so I'd hate to break those. Will check it out.

Posted in the other thread but figured I'd post more detail here for those interested in adding the matchbox helicopter to your premium.

First, apologize in advance if someone already did this earlier. I hadn't seen it on a prem yet though.

Second - It was a major PITA but I think it came out great. Next thing is I'm going to add a light in the cockpit that attaches to the GI and add a spotlight on the left over stand up post that is no longer used. Just have to order them.

In order to do this you need the matchbox helicopter - This one - ebay.com link: c

You will then have to carefully drill out the center where the blades go through to where the hole winds up being the size of the flipper bushing that the blade shaft rides on. Once you have it drilled out you then need to slightly bend down the middle of the helicopter to gain some added clearance as well as remove the landing gears. I used a hammer and a socket to bend the roof down slightly. Once the bushing will go all the way through the helicopter and be slightly higher than the roof you are good with the copter. Now you need clearance on the bushing and helipad plastic. Drill out the mounting holes of the flipper bushing (only half way through) so you can recess the bolts that hold it to the plastic (those recessed flush drill bits would work here). The clearance is super tight so without doing this it will put to much stress on the blade shaft and wont spin properly. I painted the bushing black while off to hide it a bit. Reassemble the bushing on top of the helipad plastic which is then on top of the main plastic (forest). Before attaching the helicopter to the plastic you need to cut off about an 1/8 of an inch of the rear rotors otherwise they will contact the factory blade assembly. I used a wire cutter. I then used hot glue to attach the helicopter to the bushing. I put the blade shaft back in the bushing and screwed to the blades before attaching the whole plastic assembly back in the game. This made it easier to get the screw tight on the shaft.

Everything is 100% reversible. Took me about 3 hours to do as I was trying to figure out what needed to happen so the blade would spin properly. I'm guessing it's an hour long job.

I think it looks better than the flat plastic but it could just be me.

Video showing the blades working -

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Yeah, I've nudged it as far up as it will go. I just re-nudged it again last weekend because it had slipped back down a bit so all balls were hopping instead of just the ones released from the post. It's not the worst situation in the world and I can certainly live with it for any game, let alone this great game. I was just curious about the gap alignment since it seems to be different compared to my other machines. This is also the first Stern game I've owned so I don't even know if they're typically set up like this on their machines, although I've never noticed it on location on other Stern machines. Thanks though.

Turns out mine is green as well. I sent an email to Stern. Hopefully they'll just send it but if not I'll talk to my distributor.

Nope. They are supposed to but haven't made new production of the rod. Therefore if you buy one now from their site you're gonna get what I got.

Here is the orange spring on Marco's site. $1.49. I purchased it when I purchased some extra coil stops to keep around.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/266-5001-07

Stern got right back to me and said they will send it. I guess little things like this are an easy fix for them. They're probably glad whenever someone's not asking for a new playfield.

Or they are tired of people asking them to send 1$ items

Finally got my JP shooter rod in the mail today. Been waiting since last September.

Install was a breeze, but as others have already stated, the directions don’t tell you where to plug it in. It goes on the CN15 connector.

Just want to say thanks to Mike @ GAP for the nice phone call to tell me it was on its way finally. Mike gave me a great price and he kept following up for me month after month. I really wish Stern would get their accessory department in gear to get these accessories into consumer hands quicker from now on. If manufacturing is slowed down for whatever reason, just please try to keep your distributors and customers in the loop better.

I think the shooter rod looks good.

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... I take it I need to adjust position in settings.

I had this happen on mine. It was because the up down was adjusted too low. This involves getting at 4 nuts on the back playfield panel. The jaw should just barely touch the ramp when it is opened in the lower position. Having it too low, the ball bite at the ramp still works but other times when it swings side to side it can catch the ramp if it's too low.

Has this shown to be normal?? my vertical movement sounds this way too when on side to side movement.

Just got it today and I am a little worried.

Mine makes the noises too.