has anyone had an issue where 1 ball gets locked (highwire), it immediately will say ball 2 locked, then dump the only ball there onto the playfield while saying one more for multiball?

all the switches test fine. i thought maybe the 2nd switch is getting held down by the first ball, but that's not the case. either way, that wouldn't release the first ball.

i've been playing around with them since i quit working. they are pos switches! they have a lot of tension, too. i can place a ball right before each one and it will sit there on the wire ramp. i think i need to bend them to make an apex, and have that point just behind the center of the ball maybe.

actually, these look like they have been "adjusted" a million times. probably beyond the point of return. well, almost. i'll get a pic, so you guys can tell me how jacked up they are.

2.0h; you got it. i'll check that setting.

appreciate the help, guys.

oh, the balls that were in it were magnetized. i had balls sticking to each other on the highwire ramp. i put 4 new ones in.

ball trough was having problems before i replaced the balls. didn't put 2 and 2 together. i had an extra trough shimmy, so that's in there, too.

hw locks were set to "yes", the default.

if i put a ball at the top of the hw ramp and let it drop, it's about 50/50 whether or not the ball keeps the switch registered. sometimes i get switch 66, hw low, to stay on the screen. the other half of the time, it'll just say last switch was 66.

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i might just do that.

i'm consistently not staying on top of that bottom switch from the top of the ramp now. if i let go of the ball right before the 3 switches, it'll keep 66 registered. it's like with enough speed, it'll jostle a bit at the stop post to confuse that last switch.

oh, and it'll say last last switch 67 now. i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last...

anything else i should check out before i put my order in? i know i need white flipper buttons. it came with chrome ones, that are flaking off.

i picked up yesterday, btw. hola.

i temporarily put switch 68 in 66's place and it works flawlessly. i'm going to swap control wires on those 2 and see if i can get this thing working.

damn; no dice. same thing.

i'm telling you, it looks like with enough of a running start the ball jostles up about 1/16" when it hits the stop post. i'm going to concentrate my efforts there for a little.

is it possible i'm flying through the switches too fast? test will say switch 67 was last, but i can roll the ball off 66 and i hear it click back up. so weird.

yeah, i hope that's it.

i was able to hold my finger over the ball, so when it came down it wouldn't jump off the post. still didn't work.

those switches are either too sensitive or not sensitive enough.

if i let go of the ball just before switch 68, it'll reg all 3, then 66 stays on. if i drop the ball at the top of the ramp, i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last switch; nothing stays on.

yeah, it's definitely clicking 66 down. even though it's not showing on, if roll the ball up the ramp a bit, i hear the switch unclick. i want my highwire to work! aaah!

any quick do's or don'ts with powered subs on this game? unplug the cab speaker? dual input with another game? sorry, i'm a powered sub virgin; a little scared.

switches ordered, btw.

$35 isn't bad. plus you have the line out, which can be used with their 4 port thingy. ty.

rollover switches in: same problems.

switches are too strong; that's the bottom line. i need a lane switch. something that can't hold the ball up. i tried bending the wire form top down and i got balls stuck on the vertical part of that piece.

i'm so f'n depressed.

this is such a crappy design, no?

when the switch is too low, it won't stay down. then i get it too high, and the second ball gets stuck on it when multiball starts. so frustrating.

i actually got it to work once before i stopped messing with it. i had to find that fine line. we'll see what it does next time...

i didn't know switches had multiple nubs. i'll try that. it's on the default, outside nubs.

my game is probably at 6*, i'd guess. top of the bubble is just touching the bottom line.

thanks for the replies. it does give me hope, when you guys say you don't really have any issues with this. i think i'm really close.

now it seems my balloon pop stopped coming out of the playfield...

Coyote, you're the winner. moved the switch arm to the inner set of nubs: i'm in biz! tyvm.

i had a similar idea yesterday, just different method. i tried putting a little piece of rubber under the arm, so the arm wouldn't need to go down as far. it worked better, but actually moving the arm inward did it way cleaner and it works flawless now. again, thank you. i had not idea that was even an option on those switches. the more you know...

the balloon pop came up in test and now comes up during gameplay. the apron switch barely works, however. i'll have to check that donkey out.

hooked up my psw10 and pinnovator daughter board. sound is unreal. thanks for the advice there, too, guys. my CV is getting there. slowly, but surely.

figured out my balloon pop issue. the spring on the plunger somehow came undone and was pushing on the leaf switch. removed the yoke and put the spring back where it's supposed to be. back in biz there, too.

i put my green ringmaster on tonight. holy crap that was hard. also, put a silver ball shooter rod and all new shooter parts on. that little metal clamp was a pita. put white flipper buttons on. she's coming back real nice. i might finally get to the lights soon.

the flasher under the balloon pop, just a regular white bulb or did it originally have a condom on it?

also, i didn't really think about it before, but i just have a fiber yoke on that pop. adding the metal one on there should liven that girl up, right? it's not very impressive currently.

another thing, i pulled all the insert led's and replaced with natural whites. original owner didn't really have this thing color matched very well. a lot of the cyan inserts were either green or blue. it's like a whole new game!

do those backbox glare guards do much? this game is obviously worse than usual with the unique design.

i noticed a loose wire under my balloon pop. that would explain the light being out. what lug does it solder to?

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i guessed, and i suppose i guessed correctly. the light is back on.

here's a quick pic of my switch to colored gi:
IMAG0555[1] (resized).jpg
i'm a big fan. ran out of ice blue, however. wanted to put a few of those up around the juggler plastics and maybe the shooter lane.

does a lensed led fit in the balloon pop? i have an unlensed red smd in there now, and it just looks like a red dot. not dispersing very well.

sometimes when i crush the center ramp, i guess the ball is moving too fast for the magnet to grab it. game code corrects with a virtual lock or starts multiball, which is pretty slick. is this normal or you think there's something that could be worked on to speed up the magnet?

that was my thought. ty.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-CV-CABBBNG
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spareparts/cabinet-products/decals/cirqus-voltaire-backbox-decals.html

i have a funny. i bought my CV back in february, i think. i've been playing the entire time with a non-functional upper diverter post. no wonder it was so hard to join the cirqus! i had to hit the orbit with just enough power to get it up there, but not too much that it would complete the orbit. makes me laugh now .

again, i guess i was hitting it with just enough momentum to manually drop it in one of the subway entrances.

the post was definitely not working. power wire came off the lug. not an intermittent issue.

ebay, i believe.

google. first result:

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-CV1

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/bally/cirqus-voltaire/circus-voltaire-backbox-insert-overlay-decal.html

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/cirqus-voltaire/3966/balloon-plastic-for-cirqus-voltaire?c=2527

parts-finder weaver over here .

make sure the ball isn't hitting the juggler plastic. mine was after i did my superband install. removed a washer to lower it. seems better now.

my sister broke a flipper on sunday, so it gave me an excuse to rebuild them. just finished up. finally replaced the purple flippers that came on it with white ones. replaced the green menagerie ball with a blue one, too. works better with the color scheme.

you can see my new superband rubbers i put everywhere and pinblades. that was about two weeks ago. she's coming along.

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anyone selling privately or know of a site with ready to order purple coin doors? this universal door with mismatched bezels looks like hell next to the SS i just bought.

my vuk bracket is bent all to hell, and i couldn't find an oem replacement. stumbled on this last night, so i ordered:

https://mantispinball.com/product/cirqus-voltaire-popper-vuk-bracket/

fyi, in case anyone is looking for one.

the old one:
IMAG0681[1] (resized).jpg

no wonder i wasn't getting much kick.

alright, is there a secret to adjusting the switches behind the ringmaster? the ones for the inner jackpot and spin loop. it is so annoying to get to cirqus wizard mode and i can't spell cirqus because i can't light the damn q. teach me, please.

i had highwire problems when i first got my CV. i put rollers in, but they didn't really fix the issue. the switches worked better, but then i got balls stuck like you're having, i think. the big fix was moving the switch arm to the second nub on the switch assemblies. this loosens the tension on the switch to let balls roll easier over them. absolutely no problem since.

got my highest score yet last night: 96m. i started out in test mode, since i had the glass off. got switch 25 working before i started playing. it's almost like it needs to be loosened up or it loses adjustment when it sits for a few days. does that make any sense? maybe i'll just pull it out and adjust it that way. i don't think i'm really correcting anything while installed through the playfield.

are your balls magnetized, sticking to each other?

here's my setup. do you have that plastic spacer for lift? i also have plastic protectors on mine, so there's two layers of game/art plastic, too.
IMAG0690[1] (resized).jpg

oh, that's not factory? came as is with the game. yeah, i definitely don't run my pins very steep. i try to take it easy on my friends and 5 year old daughter.

got mine for $6800 back in february. condition was a little above average, i'd guess, but not much.

gameplay is some of the best in pinball, imo. hitting the orbits, outer and mini behind the ringmaster especially, really speed things up. nice flow off the ramps. the acrobat shot/ramp is very satisfying. highwire ball locks satisfy, also. both locks, highwire and juggler, are physical ball locks. always a plus in my book. not a lot of places for the ball to get hung up, pops are out of the way, etc.

best part is the music. i cant get enough of it. hook it up to a sub and enjoy. backbox/dmd configuration: nothing else like it, obviously. great game; greaaat game.

sounds pretty normal, unless i don't understand what you're saying.

in video mode, you have to press a button to pull the string to fire the cannon. when you have the balloon pop up, everytime you hit that it'll fire. lit outlanes will fire the cannon. maybe certain achievements will do it, too. that's all i can think of.

sorry, guys:

Machine - For Sale

Cirqus Voltaire Archived

Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean - “got it back in february from a pinside guy down in virginia. 6 months is about my limit for any game. it's pretty nice. main cabinet is great. a noticeable scratch or two on the l...”

2017-08-03

Gettysburg, PA

weaverj

7,500

Archived after: 18 days

Viewed: 844 times

Status: Not sold

the most contested topic in pinball is lighting. i used to be all white, then tried some colored in a BSD and liked it a lot. CV looks pretty good the way i did it. some games are harder than others. as long as there isn't a lot of art on the plastics, color can usually be done with care.

some colors work better than others. pink, purple and ice blue give a nice mild glow. red, yellow and blue are too strong and wash out the plastics and playfield art too much. green and cyan are kind of in the middle.

definitely don't like "color matched" inserts. i use white and nothing else. color in the backbox is also pretty bad, imo.

at least you're using led's and not incandescents. that's the important thing.

i believe the blackout mod is when a game has a mode where the gi goes out, like neon multiball on CV, the backbox gi is modded to go out at the same time. did i get that right?

if you hit the center ramp when spot marvel is lit, you get quick marvels. i don't know anything about the menagerie doing that.

yeah, sometimes you just need a new switch.

yeah, kinda sounds like the post is slow. rebuild that assembly or remove the plastic lift piece from the middle of the ramp, if you have it.

i had all my issues fixed for the high wire after moving the arms on the switches to the inside nub, closest to the button. check that.

mine dropped all 3 at the same time. software maybe? pretty sure i was running the home rom.

hitchhiker from a stern.

yep, just get her dialed in, then enjoy.

love comet ice blues. had them in BSD, CV and now TRON. never had the sling bulb issue. guess i was lucky.

pretty.