(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

10 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider the_pump_house.
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#1419 3 years ago

I joined to club this week with a really nice restored CV. I had a slam tilt issue (ringmaster down switch wired backwards) I sorted out and just have a couple issues left to address or general questions.

Ball Plunger - doesn’t make enough contact with the ball resulting in a really weak launch. At rest, the plunger rod is some distance from the ball (the ball is resting against the auto launcher ). Is my plunger rod too short ? What is the measurement of the lenght of the rod sticking in to the cabinet?

Also, my balls do not “stack up” when they are locked on the high wire. When you lock a ball on the high wire it only stays for a second or two before being release back in to play. Is this a setting?

#1421 3 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

No, it is most likely one of the lock switches not making or out of synchronicity with the others. The CV lock system is really sensitive. The switches have to make all the same way. Because of this a lot of people use the roller arm switches for the lock. I did not. My lock works perfect so If it Aint Broke Don't Fix It. Sometimes a lock switch will change state when ball is in the lock, this results in the game releasing the ball prematurely. Use the the switch edge test and check your lock switches. It maybe best to just put a whole set of new ones in there and be done.

Just read the whole thread since posting that and see lots of suggestions on that issue. That said, does the tournament play setting disable the high wire lock ball hold?

Wouldn’t those switches be a good candidate for a magnetic switch replacement?

#1427 3 years ago

Anyone got a spare lightning bolt plastic? I’m missing the one in the rear left corner on the ramp

#1429 3 years ago
Quoted from Kare9:

Literally just caved and bought a plastic set for this and the big DMD plastic, wish I could have found that lightning bolt one alone from somewhere.

Finally got my CV pretty dialed in. Waiting for the neon ramp light replacement and I had the tab on the right flipper that held the coil stop was completely broken off. Not sure how it kept working ok like that but it was. Got my highwire correctly holding balls and releasing them.

This machine is difficult to light with LED's (transparent plastics like over the slingshots) without blinding the shooter.

4 weeks later
#1513 2 years ago

I was lucky with my miswired switch in my CV I bought. RM up was wired backwards and a menagerie hit caused a slam tilt.

That made it a lot easier to figure out.

#1533 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Hey guys - just making a repro part announcement. I began making repro MRS' (as found in CV) earlier this year - but only announced on the RFM page (they are handmade and didn't want to get overwhelmed with orders). I wanted to branch out a little more to other pin clubs that utilize this crazy unobtanium switch....the MRS stands for Magnetic Reed Switch - and they are also found in NGG, NBAFB, SWEP1, SC and CC ...the went unobtanium almost a dozen years ago or so - so my partner and I at M&M Creations decided to remake them. Our MRS is plug/play - it is lighter, thinner and more sensitive than the original MRS. You can see a pic of the repro MRS solo and in a lineup with an original Williams MRS, a Sega MRS (used in Maverick, Space Jam and SW:Trilogy) and a repro M&M Creations MRS. I'm going to start making some more again (a good winter thing to do) and wanted to get a list going...just PM if interested!
Matt & Dan[quoted image][quoted image]

Has anyone used MRS switches for the high wire lock switches?

#1541 2 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Just out of curiosity, what would the benefit of this be? It’s certainly cool I get it, but the rollover switches work just fine on the locks. Is it that it’s lower profile and may look better (more hidden)?

My dv was
Moved and now I’m having a $&$&& of a time getting the lock switches adjusted so they don’t prevent the balls from leaving the high wire ramp.

How thick is the service bulletin washer for the middle highwire support post as that’s my next attempt at correcting this.

#1547 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Check that the TOP of the wireform - that hangs OVER the balls - is not lifted up, and is as low as it can be to blow any vertical movement in balls.
On my two sample CV's I had, I used a pair of large pliers (protected by towels) to squish the top of the wireform down. Once I did that, no issues at all. With original switches, too.

My balls were ever so slightly magnetized. Barely perceptible but enough to create rolling resistance

1 year later
#1876 1 year ago

What balls are you guys using? My CV is terrible for Magnetizing balls.

3 months later
#1939 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:Congrats. Pps has the translite in stock if you want a new one. It was announced sometime earlier this year on this thread

[quoted image]

Did they make the tub too? That would have been a pair selling no brainer

8 months later
#2072 7 months ago

I’d like one with large speaker holes please

3 months later
#2128 4 months ago
Quoted from PPS:

We have the CV tub tool as well, will be getting that sorted out ... finding suppliers that want/can do things is hard ... stay tuned.

I finally got around to installing my new tub today and was extremely disappointed by it. While it aligns perfectly with the old tub it is paper thin and flimsy as hell. It's going to require major reinforcement across the entire tub.

#2129 4 months ago

A long shot I'm sure but does anyone carry the speaker grills for CV? I got the tub with two 5 1/4 speaker holes but of course now I need a 5 1/4 speaker grill for the tub.

part 04-10916

#2134 4 months ago

Is there a source for the tub decal that isn't over the top outrageously priced?

#2137 4 months ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hello
Can you please elaborate? I ordered one and have been too busy to install it and after I read your post it sounds like it will need work prior to installing.
Thank you
George

The tub plastic much thinner than the original tub. I plan on applying thin fiberglass cloth to the back of the tub with polycrylic to reinforce it and made a plexiglass plate for the back of the tub for the cannon coil area.

#2145 4 months ago
Quoted from ViperTim:

Well that is just bullshit.
The OEM tubs are BS quality and way too thin.
If they made it even thinner I don’t know what to even say.
How dumb can said manufacturer be?

It really shows up when you try to put the trim edges on the translight/tub and they just fall off because of the assembly being less thick.

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