(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,236 posts
  • 274 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider santis.
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#1402 3 years ago

Brite caps ligthining from pinball life. I went red and re drill the holes to make it fit.

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3 weeks later
#1451 3 years ago

@darthfett72. That’s the way. Remove the 2 screws and then force the plastic out. Be gentile so no wires are broken at that moment.

#1452 3 years ago

I like the standard ringmaster. Some other like the prototype Is not much different. I don’t remember how many flasher it has inside. But in mine I put blue led flasher so his eyes pop it during play.

1 week later
#1492 3 years ago

RobbyIRL5 Hi. Look you have a switch short that causes the reset. Look at the switches that’s doing the reset. And look at the switch matriX Then follow the switches and test one by one. Good luck.

#1498 3 years ago

RobbyIRL5 Look. You first need to identify the bad switches. Then you can unsolder 1 end of diode and whit multimeter (they have a position to check continuity. Is the one that beeps when you touch the 2 leads.) then check switch and diode. It can be either. And think first you should go to menu then test then switch level. There supposed to some active switches. I don’t remember which. But if is hard I’ll send you a pic.

#1507 3 years ago

RobbyIRL5

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:What’s the p/n on the diodes (Marcos has many)? The diode on one of the the suspicious switches tests fine but looks different (smaller). May as well change it out!

The bigger the diode the more amps can hold. They all same whit the exception of the glass diodes (fast acting diode). Diode is a one way electronic switch. That means power can go back to cpu The reset you’re having is most likely caused for power going back to cpu due to a faulty diode.

#1510 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Found it. The same damn switch (64) that we knew was the issue ended up being wired backwards (white and diode on wrong outside lead), somebody here called it. It sure didn't look like it because they had the diode wired backwards with it.

anyone who can learn something new everyday is a very smart person. The switch matrix fix that you just learned will help you in the future for many other repairs in many different games.

#1518 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

1). Ball travels up left ramp
2). Side show activates
3). Game freezes and resets.
Thoughts?

Switches. You know how to run a test so?

#1519 3 years ago

Test switch

#1521 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Thanks. Which switch?

You have to run a switch test Test switch is when you open the door and use the 4 buttons dto do it. Do you have any idea how? In there you’ll see the ones are bad or also could be a diode at any switch (is shorted ) or a shorted switch.

#1532 3 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Thanks. I’ll try all this tonight. I just bought the game. The previous owner says this did not happen prior to him selling it.

hi. Ok before you do anything. First. Did you check for plugs in backbox? Are All snuggled in properly? Try removing them 1 at the time Just remove it for 1/16 of an inch out and then press them properly In. First alway do the easy things. For next time you ask you have to provide all the info at once ( you just got it and bad switches ). So is easier to troubleshooting. Let me know how you made up. Good luck.

-1
#1536 3 years ago

MRS need a magnet to get activated . Ball is not magnetic. Maybe the smaller can work. If someone does it please keep me posted. Thank you

#1539 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The reed switches' magnetivity is affected by the ball's steel. Ball over the MRS causes the switch to close and override the magnetic poliartiy keeping the reed together.

I had no idea that works like that. I’ll get done and try. Thank you

1 month later
#1565 2 years ago

Hi. I just want to post this so everyone is aware. I got a set of backbox decals from pinball decals. I installed and also installed another for funhouse that I got I don’t remember where. Decals were good for a month. Then .....

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#1566 2 years ago

This happens

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#1567 2 years ago

So I emailed him about this problem. His answer was buy another ??? The other decals I installed same day are neat like the first day but this are garbage. Then you have to pay again for another which I’m sure is same(bad) quality. BEWARE IF YOU BUYING SOMETHING THERE.

#1568 2 years ago

It looks like because of COVID many want to sell just garbage. Look at playfield in some new pinballs. Then decals. ??? I truly recommend anyone who is looking for decals no to get them there. There is no integrity in doing business whit him.

#1572 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Installed a lot of decals, never once did I sand anything. Never had this type of result. Something is wrong with the adhesive on that decal. I would try heating the decals with a hair dryer and smoothi

Same thing here weak adhesive very poor quality and I notice that from day 1. The sticking power was really poor. I te other for funhouse adhesive was way stronger.

#1573 2 years ago
Quoted from jokerpoker:

What sort of prep did you do before putting them on. You must sand all previous decal and then glue residue. Then prep sand again more prep and sand again if you want really good results. If you just give a

old decal removed. (I’m a carpenter). Wood putty sanded to perfection Bad adhesive or old decal

#1575 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I had a poor experience with him years ago, bought a bunch of PDI glass (which is $$$$) and most of it had imperfections that were very noticeable. His first reaction was to say he's never had that happen and he basically didn't believe me. Then it was discovered by other buyers picking up in person that most of the batch he received from his supplier (in Germany) had the same issu

I can see now very clearly. He is a real piece of work Scamming people all over. The decal he sold me was oversized by about 5 inches Which is tot normal. He like to screw peoples whit his products. Whit I think he get the left overs or defective and sells them as “good quality” A real prick

#1576 2 years ago

I think we should open a new tread about suppliers who sell bad parts And keep everyone updated about what they do. So no other get scammed again and has to pass by bitter experience.

#1579 2 years ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I was wandering if anyone has experience
Swapping a IPB playfield in a CV
These seem to sell for pretty low prices.
Much cheaper than new pfs from germany.
I am thinking of buying a IPB, do a reclearcoat and install in my machine.
But before i do i would very much like
To hear some opinions, cons, pros..
Much appreciated

Hi. I did in mine I clear coated and swap it. I posted pic about mine in here look for them and any questions please let me know.

#1580 2 years ago

Ps. Post 1402

#1581 2 years ago
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#1582 2 years ago
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#1585 2 years ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

Thanks for all of your responces!
This helps me alot making the decision of buying a IPB pf!

Hi. I’m a contractor here So. Before the usually cut the wood let it dry then it was proceeded to do anything in the lumber from playwoood(playfield are made from plywood ). To moldings or other parts. Since the wood was already dried most likely it will never bend. Now in this day they cut the wood and it gets processed right away (still moisture in the wood). And it will dry thru the time. New playfields in many new pinball have this problem. Although still playable. If the ipdb playfield you’re getting is flat that’s a score Good luck.

1 week later
#1587 2 years ago
Quoted from Rjbdmdmd:

Anyone have any leads in back glass bottom lift trim or replacement ideas. Mine is broken and I can’t find it in stock at any of the usual places
Thanks in

Hi. I email Planetary Pinball (they have the copyright ). They told me they’re in the process to make all of them.

1 month later
#1605 2 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Is the red wire visible on everyone's neon? Not sure if the is a genuine neon or not

yes it is. Is common to be shown. Is the only way the other end of neon gets powered.

1 week later
#1618 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

was probably just drunk

most likely. Lol. It happens more often than you think.

1 month later
#1631 2 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Any one else have a problem with the "popper" bracket hitting the inside bold on closing the playfield?

I did when I swapped the playfield. You have to adjust it properly. That’s all

3 months later
#1713 2 years ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

Is there anywhere in the USA that sells the stainless ringmaster protector?

You mean the top of the head or the hole protector?

#1718 2 years ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

The hole protector. I'm looking for the stainless one.

Is your playfield damage?

#1725 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I have mild wear around the edge of the Ringmaster hole. I would say it’s pretty typical. Trying to apply the tight metal pr

There was someone selling a plastic hole protector in different colors. I replaced the playfield in mine for a NOS I got and clear coated about 1/16 of and inch tick But specially in that hole I put some extra. It was here in pinside the Ad about the protector.

#1739 2 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hello Fellas
Going to be changing out my neon tube. Now I surmise that neon works on AC if not mistaken. They’re are two leads on the end of each end of the new tube. Are these leads polarity critical. Just don’t wan

neon ligth are incandescent ligth either way will work. Led light must have polarity connected right or it don’t work.

1 week later
#1755 2 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Actually with the way that Pinball Life shipped the new one to me was very secure. I saved the old packaging in the

I truly like to buy in pinball life. Really pros in customer service and support and packing shipping and good prices too

5 months later
#1841 1 year ago
Quoted from colocole:

Anyone have a link to a fix for the first locked ball moving back up the wireform so machine doesn't think there's a ball there? Replace the lock switches, bend the swi

Hi. For me worked using an small spacer for the micro switch. Good luck

#1846 1 year ago
Quoted from NorwegianRockCat:

I'm having a couple of problems with my Cirqus Voltaire. Right now I have two errors:
1. "Top eddy is not working" (the auto eddy board is not registering hits). I tested the connection on the borad and it is getting 12 volts. The switch matrix registers when I unplug and plug it back in, but nothing else happens with it. Is there anything else I can check to possibly test/repair the board?
I know before you could get a replacement from pinbits, but that doesn't seem to be an option now. I've looked at the Steady Eddy board, but that seems to be sold out at the

Hi. The eddy board has an small Phillips screw to adjust sensitivity. Try it first. If not you’ll have to replace it. Normally adjusting it will work again. Good luck

1 month later
#1881 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Hi guys.
Ringmaster mech working, magnet also active and catches ball. Problem is it won’t release it from the top of the

It seem that the transistor which drive the magnet is bad.

3 months later
#1955 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

And I’m in! Skeptical on the number of plays, but it looks really new. A few adjustments needed, but the only thing I have t

Once you remove the batteries the games goes back to zero Batteries holds the memory. Either way nice machine

#1970 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Batteries were moved to the side and I bet that’s when it reset. Looks more like 100-200 plays to me. Now I need to sort out the solenoid that isn’t firing in the backbo

Is a great machine and your is really neat (even better).

2 months later
#2040 1 year ago

My advice for you. Don’t touch the board if you don’t know electronics. (You can screw up other things in the board ). You need someone whit knowledge about the board or about removing it and send it to repair.

4 months later
#2059 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

i CV people. Does anyone know which fuse is assigne

I think is “ secondary solenoid “ Good luck.

#2062 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

And now it’s working. So who knows. A loose connection maybe? I did swap the bulbs. But the new one didn’t come on right away. Time will

I did have something like your problem in mine. It was the connection between the transformer and neon.

1 month later
#2086 7 months ago
Quoted from bossrat:

Does anyone have any recommendations on repairing random switch failures?
My CV comp

Put the game in play and use the switches (all of them). Computer send that cod e when a switch hasn’t been use in I guess 50 plays.

6 months later
#2227 19 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’ve picked up a CV to restore and hoping this club can help me answer a few things:
1. How does the neon install? Mine has an aftermarket thing in there but I’ve bought a neon with 2 wires at each end

Everyone has a different taste in blades. That all depends the lighting you doing. I put in mirror blades. Original neon has 2 wires. The bottom wire next to sling shoot goes back under neon to the top and connects to a transformer wich is common to go bad. Neon unles glass is broken should be ok. All plastics ramps are available at Starship fantasy. Good luck

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