I got mine a couple years ago. Undocumented HUO, and the price was right. $6700 hand delivered to my home! My favorite quote is still "You'd be cranky too, if you had a spring for a neck".
I think it looks pretty awesome. Might look even better if there was some type of lighting on the two towers as well.
First thing, do not go by either of the lists saved on Titan's site, they are incorrect. These are my numbers after recently tearing my CV down to replace ALL rings.
4 post sleeves
7 mini posts(3/8 or 7/16 O.D.) I went with 7/16th
1-1 1/4 "
1 shooter tip
I went with purple, although after installing and looking at it, I wish it were a darker purple.
Thanks for posting the video. I've done that a few times, but I always wanted to pause/slow it down so I could see what the hell was going on. Thanks again!
Quoted from rrosenhouse:
I joined the CV club a few months ago. Due to circumstances, it is not currently set up to play. When I tested it, I noticed that the light board under the WOW letters has loose solder joints. It is obscured by the ringmaster mechanism. Is this board easy to get out? How would I do this?
Very common. When I got my CV it was a while before I realized that all 3 WOW lights were not working. I can't remember if you have to drop the ringmaster to get the light board out. If so, the ringmaster comes out very easily. IIRC just like 4 screws and a couple connectors.
Quoted from someoneelse:
Due to the damned hook on the left side lowering it from top position is also an adventure. Forget to press down the latch and your in massive danger of the delicate PF corner cracking off...
I hate that latch. CV is the ONLY pin that I know of that has that latch, therefore easy to forget!
Quoted from weaverj:
i didn't know switches had multiple nubs. i'll try that. it's on the default, outside nubs.
my game is probably at 6*, i'd guess. top of the bubble is just touching the bottom line.
thanks for the replies. it does give me hope, when you guys say you don't really have any issues with this. i think i'm really close.
now it seems my balloon pop stopped coming out of the playfield...
My Highwire lock never malfunctions, I mean never. You might have identified the problem. The pitch. I just checked mine and the top of the bubble is at the 4th line from the bottom(3rd line from the top). I do not have rollover switches, just the regular switches.
Quoted from Aniraf:
Hello everyone, first post in what looks to be a good forum.
So, I just purchased a CV. I haven't received it yet, but I should be here late next week. This is my first pin, and I couldnMt be more excited!
That said, I've been trying to catch up on information I will need to keep my machine in perfect working condition.
The first question I have is about the playfield protectors. I've read that clear coating can actually damage this surface because of the type of glue used in the insets.
I really like the concept of playfield protectors (plastic laser cut ones), but I don't completely understand how these work with the pop up componets on the play surface. It seems to me like this would create an uneven surface, and from the look of it, they don't sell parts which cover the pop ups like the ringmaster and boom balloon.
Does anyone have any idea how this works? Also, I would love any feedback on playfield protection in general.
Full playfield protectors have all the holes cut out for where everything sticks up through the playfield. It would be a royal pain to install one on a CV. They are best suited to older games that have a lot of sunken inserts because the protector will make it play like flat again. I think there is a Cliffy type protector made for the Ringmaster hole, but I don't have one on mine. Just clean/wax the playfield and enjoy playing it. Put new balls in if they don't look new already.
Quoted from Aniraf:
Has anyone experienced or noticed that their neon ramp is kind of "foggy?" Is this a normal scenario because of the heat of the neon, or is mine messed up? The rest of my plastics look really clean.
I have the exact same issue. I've thought of taking it all apart to clean it but don't want to drill out the rivets. Mine is green, BTW.
I agree. There is no "delay" in the signal. When the switch closes the CPU sees the state change instantly. Sounds like the middle switch could be gummy and slow to open back up. Best practice is a new switch, but in a pinch I have fixed this type of issue with alcohol. Take the switch completely out of the game and squirt it good with alcohol, working the switch open/closed a bunch of times. Make sure to blow out all the alcohol and give time for evaporation before putting the switch back in the game.
But like Coyote said, just replace the switch.
In the side show mode where it says "Fire that Cannon", the normal behavior is it will fire when you hit the button, but only every few seconds. There is no switch for the ball down by the solenoid so the game has no way of knowing the position of the ball. You get points every time the solenoid fires, whether the ball is there or not. You get extra points if it goes to the top and trips the switch in the single lane.
Quoted from Aniraf:
I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.
Has anyone seen this?
That could be normal depending on how many ramps you make prior to locking a ball. Look at instant info while trapping a ball to see what I mean. Ideally, you shoot your third lock when you need just one more ramp for Strike an Arc MB and you will have the two MB's stacked.
Same here. Drops all three at once. One thing I suggest is going into game settings and set it to release all locked balls immediately at game over. I'm also on 2.0 home ROMs.
Quoted from Aniraf:
Happy Thanksgiving to the CV owners . I’m thankful for owning a CV, and having a random machine screw show up on my play field yesterday. Look at this picture. I swear I have torn this machine down at least three times and I’ve Never seen a philips head machine screw like this.
Screw fairy got me!
Ha Ha. I found that same screw on my playfield one day. I found the nut down inside the short subway in that area. Must be a common issue for it to work loose.
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:
Are there any tricks for the acrobat shot? If a ball gets launched up through there it’ll fly off the return ramp. Any fixes for that?
Yes, don't shoot it cause it's a virtually worthless shot! But seriously, you might try increasing the pitch slightly or just let the game get a little dirty to slow the ball down.
Quoted from whthrs166:
Yeah these issues are typical on not just CV but all of the Williams Bally games. My CV had a cold solder joint on the light board behind the Ring Master which caused the center WOW target light to wig out now and then. Not the easiest one to get out. I was fortunate that I had a new magnet core for my Mini Play Field and installed it on mine.
When I got my CV I sorted out all kinds of issues. Then I thought it was 100%. After playing it for months I realized that none of the WOW inserts lit up. Every single solder joint on that lamp board was cracked from countless ball impacts to the targets. I just reflowed all the solder and it's been perfect ever since!
Curious to see what those look like with the lights on. I went with purple Titans a while back and they looks great.
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