Both my sample CVs never had the kits installed. When the game is leveled properly, the highwire lock worked, and while balls may go through that little area next to the RM, I never had any balls get stuck there (since both my games had the thin RM installed..)
Work on slightly adjusting the back metal guide where the ball first goes up the wireform. Try different directions. On both of the games I used to own I had to seriously adjust these before it was perfect. (And even then, during 'perfect', one or two in 20 would fly off..)
Quoted from pin-pimp:
I have sample number 154. Talked with j pop a few months back and he told me to look under the lock bar, and find the sticker that says how many balls to install. There is a little scribble on it. That's his signature that he inspected it. He said all the protos and samples were inspected by him. I know there is a lot of j pop bashing going on right now
But I thought it was a cool fact. Cv is my favorite pop game.
Interesting. Both of my samples had that - didn't know what it was. Neat info.
Yeah, it was a lot more interactive than it ended up being.
All I remember is that some balls were held up at the top, just below the bell. During certain modes, a set # of balls were to be released (like, say, 4) and before all of the available balls were shot back up, you had to complete some mode or shots on the playfield. There was no scoring switch ('Luck'), just a switch to tell the game if a ball was at top, waiting to be released. (Visible in the second image.)
Then it was changed for cost purposes, the solenoid for the bell was removed, and the balls were just supposed to hit the bell. The balls were also changed - they were made larger, I believe? - and then final cost-cutting got rid of the bell, turning it into a sound-effect.
(I modified my v2.0H ROM to remove the sound effect, since my sample still had the actual bell in it.)
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:
Last night my girlfriend (Pinfatale on here) beat Ringmaster battle for the second time & I managed to get some video of the dmd craziness that ensues when you get this bonus mode , posting it here for those who have never seen it , its something to behold ///// I have joined Cirqus but, yet to do this feat myself , gonna play some more ....... here is the link to the video » YouTube video
Yeah, I love that. Honestly, when I had my CVs, that's all I used to go for - the Join The Cirqus was just an added bonus.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:
Thanks for posting the video. I've done that a few times, but I always wanted to pause/slow it down so I could see what the hell was going on. Thanks again!
Don't get too used to it.. if memory serves, except for a few choice animations (including the 'Ray-Boot'), the others are randomized, so it's mainly different each time. (Including sounds..)
Quoted from Ed209:
Anyone know of a place to buy a backbox insert decal? I'd love to swap the plastic she'll in mine since it's cracked but I can't seem to find any repros available for this decal. Bit nervous to attempt to remove the original and transfer it without having a backup plan.
If anyone has a high quality scan of the art this would also be helpful.
I have an NOS decal - I can scan it, but it's larger than most flatbed scanners, so.. the images may need some work to stitch together.
Quoted from chalkup8:
Someone did a run of these a few years back,you could chose the colour.The protector came with a separate smaller inner piece to replace the larger part of the ringmaster top plate that didn't affect the magnet pulse.
I have searched in the past for zero results.The metal protector,i think is a 3M stick on, a bit like a piston ring shape.Much prefer the plastic version.
I can't rememebr the name off-hand, but they were probably the first 'protector' for the ringmaster. I prefer it over anything else, and think they were first made in '05? I don't believe they're made anymore, which is a huge shame.
Quoted from bobukcat:
There was a kit (A-22270) that WMS issued back in the day that addressed this and several other things (if you've seen CV with a post behind the "Bally" target on the left of the RM it was part of this kit). I bought one of these kits somewhere many years ago but never installed it because it requires you to trim a piece out of the DMD cover to fix that problem and I certainly didn't want to drill a hole in my PF to install the post by the RM. Here's a picture of the instructions related to the DMD cover fix.
Oh gawd, than kyou.
The only thing necessary was the display plastic. The post was easy to get around as long as you had your RM set up right, and I hated seeing people drill into their PFs. The lock adjuster spacer was unnecessary as well - level your game properly and make sure switch edges were good, and you wouldn't have any issues..
Quoted from Stebel:
Hi guys. I just have a rules question I can not seem to find the answer to.
How to get "Spot Marvel" to lite.
I have the 2.0H but I keep it more factory so not to award Spot Marvel on the skill shot.
The right inlane rollover lights it for a set time.
And, I believe that it's lit permanently after .. something happens. (Darnit! I can't recall, I think it may be after the Ringmaster Special multiball?)
Found an old photo of testing one of my custom color neons.
I can't recall off-hand the color. But this was a rich blue. Had purple phosphor, in blue glass, lit by red neon gas. Made a VERY dark, rich violet. THe color was effin' amazing, but it was NOT bright.
Quoted from Starscream:
Coyote you have any still laying around I could snag?
Unfortunately no. I had *1* left, up until I moved into the new house back in 2012 - it shattered in move.
I have one SW:EP1 tube left, would have to connect it up to see what color it is.
Eventually, when I get a CV back into my collection, I may start making them again, non-commercially. When I do, I'll drop a note here and let you guys know.
Looks like one of my custom neons, nice!
Also, I hate to say it, but the center marvel decal is off-center. The 'Visit Ring 3' text should be completely hidden. (However, regardless, it's kinda neat to see if under there..)
Sample and early production games had auto boards. Mid run, they switched to the normal board. Not sure why, but that's why there's a setting in the Adjustments to specify whether you have/don't have the auto-adjust board.
I'll say. I've had two CVs in my collection in the past. While I don't have one anymore, I will play a virtual pin on my laptop on the ride to/from work sometimes.
I was playing tonight, and happened to get Juggler and RM Frenzy started, with 1 ramp to go before Strike An Arc, and 2 Highwire balls locked.
Did fantastic on the first two multiballs, and was able to slam the ball up the ramp to get the Super Duper Jackpot, and stack the other two multiballs on top of that.
The energy in the game.. gosh, made me really, really miss this game.
Also - check both switches on the highwire ramp. (Not the lock ones, the ramp ones, make sure they register correctly as well.)
Holy cow, those are horrid!
Yeah, get the switches with the rollers - while not technically OEM (I'm not sure why WMS didn't use them.. DE used them everywhere back then!) they work millions times better.
Quoted from limelime20:
To know, you own a machine that was made by the worst criminal known in the pinball history...
How can you play it, let alone own it?
Because it was programmed by one of the best pin programmers out there, with the last version done without any input from him.
And don't go bringing the effin' JPop crap here, please. Leave it in the respected threads.
Curios - when the ball comes down the highwire ramp, in switch test mode, and the ball 'lifts up' - does switch #66 *STAY ACTIVATED*? It should.
Quoted from weaverj:
if i let go of the ball just before switch 68, it'll reg all 3, then 66 stays on. if i drop the ball at the top of the ramp, i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last switch; nothing stays on.
Okay, yeah, I would get new switches first - but keep in mind that even if the ball is 'lifted', it should still activate #66. It's possible that the ball is lifting too much to activate the switch and the top 'guard' should be bent down.
Edit to add: On both CVs I owned, to improve the locking there, I used a huge set of pliers and a towel to bend the top guard down - so the vertical movement was almost nil.
Try moving the actuating lever to the other set of nubs.
Edit, for more info - The inside nub will be a little stiffer, but give a lot more travel while actuated. The outside nub requires less force to actuate, but has a much small actuating window.
NEITHER position should be tight enough to *hold up a ball*. If it IS, your game is not leveled right - or there's something else wrong in how the wireform is assembled. (One leg under a nut instead of over, etc?)
On the two CVs I've had, I kept my game between 6.5-7 degrees, and on the steeper slopes, had to squeeze down the top guide, so the ball didn't ride up the lock shaft, but other than that, it worked fine..
IMHO, I had an issue with drilling a hole in my playfield. On my samples, I never did any of the things listed in that bulletin. With a nice slope on the playfield, never had issues.
Quoted from weaverj:
i have a funny. i bought my CV back in february, i think. i've been playing the entire time with a non-functional upper diverter post. no wonder it was so hard to join the cirqus! i had to hit the orbit with just enough power to get it up there, but not too much that it would complete the orbit. makes me laugh now .
Huh. How'd you ever get the sideshow?
This was (still is?) extremely common. Adjust the wireform and the metal guides in small amounts. When adjusted right, you may get *occasional* fly-offs, but most of them should stay on.
Just FYI, the neon would never get hot enough to cloud the plastic.
Could be UV light escaping and causing that to happen, or something else..
Quoted from weaverj:
here's my setup. do you have that plastic spacer for lift? i also have plastic protectors on mine, so there's two layers of game/art plastic, too.
IMHO, if you need to have the spacer there to make sure balls are dropping out correctly, your game is not leveled steep enough. Give the game some speed!
Quoted from weaverj:
oh, that's not factory? came as is with the game. yeah, i definitely don't run my pins very steep. i try to take it easy on my friends and 5 year old daughter.
It was offered as the upgrade kit, offered a couple months after production started. The same kit told operators to drill in a post behind the left Bally-Hoo standup at the Ringmaster.
On the two games I owned, I kept them at between a good 6.5-7.0 slope, and never had to insert the spacer. (Hell, I nevere even had to put the roller-switches on. Was I lubky? Both times? I dunno..)
At a lesser slope, the ramp's not as steep, so the timing of the coil plunger isn't long enough to allow a ball out. Hence the spacer and getting a steeper slope.
however, AT a steeper slope, the front ball can 'ride up' on the plunger, which means that the top chrome wireform should be bent down using large plumber's wrench and a towel - down as far as it can go and not bind on the balls in the lock. That will prvent the ballse from 'riding up' and off a switch.
Quoted from PinballCoug:
I picked up a CV several months ago and have dealt with this issue all along but have just now found the time to investigate. When obtaining the first highwire lock ball I immediately get a sneaky lock and have two highwire locks, when of course I've only achieved one. In test mode each switch individually activates properly but in edge test I drop a ball from the magnet, get three audible switch activations (presumably high, middle, then low) but the last switch activated as shown on the DMD is 67 (middle lock switch). Although all three switches were activated, this delay in the middle switch signal must be communicating that a second ball as entered the lock after switch 66 (low lock switch) has been triggered (which of course it has not). This issue is 100% repeatable when dropping the ball from the magnet, but when the ball is released half way down the wireform the switches perform correctly with low lock being the last switch activated. This seems to indicate that with the faster ball speed from the magnet the middle switch is delayed and activates after the lower switch, but with the slower ball speed from mid wireform everything performs correctly. I've tried manipulating the switches to have a smaller gap on the middle switch (quicker activation) and larger on the low switch (slower activation) but this hasn't helped a bit. Is my issue related to some sort of delay in feedback from the middle switch or perhaps the slope of the wireform?
Appreciate any help, your mother drives a dumptruck!
Bad switch. It's gummed up. Get a new one.
Cannon will fire also each time SPIN is completed, or a Marvel is completed.
I don't remember too well (it's been over 10 years since I've owned the game!) but I believe Jackpot shots will fire the cannon as well.
Quoted from mikedetroit:
Thanks for the input guys, I played Clay's in Ann Arbor, MI (Vintage Flipper World) and the cannon seems to work a lot more often then mine. Maybe its since I don't have home ROMs in mine since its on location and needs to be on coin play. Its the most up to date version before home ROMs. It just seems like the cannon should be firing during the video mode (man pulling rope). I do believe Clays was doing it during that mode.
All it does is during that mode is when you hit the flippers, he pulls the rope and else nothing happens with he cannon, its weird. May be I just don't understand this mode. I've just got complaints from people playing it that the game isn't acting right during that mode.
Off the top of my head -
- It may be the ROM revision - I helped beta-test v2.0H, and do NOT remember a THING about the revisions prior to that, it was so long ago.
- It may be a loose wire - in-game, there are vibrations happening (flippers, coils, etc..) which may help the connection keep good, and as soon as everything stops the connection isn't made to the coil.
- Wired wrong? Maybe the coil is wired to a flasher output or something? Check Test and see if it fires when it's supposed to? (And if not, go through ALL coils and flashers and make sure they are all operating normally..)
You can adjust the 'wait time' of the cannon - like if you put a second or third ball in there, you can decrease the wait time to allow faster shots - both in the video mode, and when cannon shots are stacked (completing 'SPIN' and completing the marvel at the same time).
Good to hear!
Now we just need someone with plastics experience to make the RM protector..!
Quoted from bobukcat:
I thought that none of those ever really worked very well - I've heard the metal one would get caught and bend and that the plastic ones never fit very well so they moved and caused wear. If people are interested maybe someone like indypinhead that does quite a bit of plastic work could come up with something.
I had the plastic one on both my sample CVs, and never had issues with them. I have one left over, and am saving it for my next CV.. you know, when I win the lotto. If they're not that desired, then if anyone has any extras, I'll buy them, too.
Quoted from Aniraf:
Where do you get that plastic one?? I've been looking for that for months!
Not made any more. Haven't been for a long while, unfortunately. I was lucky, I found a pinsider selling one and picked it up. I bought one for both of the sample games I used to own, and when I get CV back into my collection, I'll put this one on it.
So you have a pic of this 'electrified guy'?
The #5 ball is the correct ball.
Games were shipped with varying color of Menagerie colored balls. Both may be accurate.
Quoted from jasonbar:
Electrified zappy guy: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-circus-cv-club-for-owners-fans/page/11#post-3925515
That went on the coin door. In one of the dollar bill panels.
Quoted from drummermike:
Menagerie ball should match the color of the neon light. Mine are both blue which is correct for my serial number.
No, they *were* random leaving the factory.
Quoted from drummermike:
I was mistaken. The IPD stated the colors "usually" matched. Brain is going!
Not your fault- I didn't even know it said that!
When I got my Sample, I started the CV owner's list, and kept track of everyone's game - plus Neon and Ball color, and it sure seemed hellish random to me at the time.
You mean the Highwire ramp?
It should lock balls there - lock two. Then the third is caught and held up there as the animation plays, and then you start Highwire Multiball.
If it's not holding the ball, you likely have a bad or flaky switch.
No, the screw was oval. Top was slightly rounded. It was not flat from the factory.
Quoted from arzoo:
Then I guess mine is correct. I was only wondering because the ball tends to swing below the screw as the RM raises up and then most often flings off the back rather than juke around on the plate before flinging off. So I though maybe the oval screw was causing the ball to break contact with the magnet too quickly.
From what I remember - and it's been a while, I could be wrong - that was done on purpose as a flat screw would get the ball in the dead center of the magnet's effect, and when the magnet would 'pulse', the ball wouldn't go anywhere. (Sitting in the center of the face of the screw like that..)
However, while a lot of times, games I've owned/played did shoot the ball backwards, it wasn't nearly (or even close to) 'all the time'. So, I'm not sure what a fix would be. Stronger magnet coil?
Quoted from jasonbar:
I'm rebuilding my Boom! balloon assembly, & there are 2 things that don't seem right.
1: The manual shows 1X item 57, 23-6626 Grommet, between the bumper body & cap ("Boom" plastic). My game had no grommets, just 1 small shim (Velcro?) between the bumper body & cap at the hole closer to the point of the teardrop (the screw closer to the flippers).
Are there supposed to be 2 of these grommets? For shock absorption?
2: For the little lamp PCB assembly, item 16, is there anything holding it in place, apart from its 2 wires? It was rather cockeyed when I opened up the pop bumper, but I have it sitting a bit better now. Just seeing if it should have some further retention.
1. Just one rubber grommet, on the bottom hole. The grommet is used to 'level' the plastic so that it's flush with the playfield.
2. No, it just sat in the bottom of the bumper body.
Quoted from sparechange1974:
I'm going to keep it in there for now. What color is yours? I didn't realize they came with so many different colors. I realize this may be subjective, but what seems to look best on the game? What about the multi-color? Is that too much?
When I started making the custom neons, purple was most popular, followed by multi-colored neons (of various colors..)
Quoted from sparechange1974:
You make those? Really cool? I like the thought of purple. Where does one find one?
Don't make them anymore. Neon is a dying art and the company I was learning from and making these shut down.
If you have your original, take it to a neon shop (some commercial sign shops do neon..) and tell them you'd like to have one made matching the original's pattern. Ask to see what inventory thru have, and go to town.
Quoted from pacman11:
So what’s the difference between all the different neon lights? Are some earlier production runs? Which color is more common? Just curious thanks!
As far as I know, colors were completely random coming out of the factory. I don't know how much they made of each color. (Would guess that noone knows of-hand. Would need to check purchase records or talk to the neon shop that originally made them.)
There's two types of neon tubes used in the game - true Neon gas tubes (orange-red when on, *clear* when off) and Argon gas tubes (Blue, White, Green, Purple with the game, other colors can be done custom - these appear white or colored when off).
There are some games out there with custom tubes - back between '03 and '08, I had custom tubes made to order. Had a lot of neat colors go out the door. I don't know how many are left out there now.
Quoted from BallyWilliams:
Hi. Have you seen a guide (ideally video) on how to swap the neon?
Quoted from pintechev:
There’s not a lot to it:
1. Remove the Neon ramp from the game
2. Drill out and remove the rivets that hold the ramp together
The neon tube has wires that protrude on both sides and are just hand twisted together.
Just do NOT DO THIS with the game on! That is VERY high voltage!
Just a PSA..
You're a d*ck if you replace the neon with a LED strip.
(I mean, you can still get neon tubes. New, they shouldn't cost a lot, and transformers are still EASILY available. They give off no heat, and come in a lot more neat colors than LEDs do.)
Quoted from Yelobird:
The Mod Couple welcomes home Cirqus Voltaire with our first CV Mod "The Ringmaster Custom Guard" kit. While we understand this is not a New concept no solutions appear to be available and we wanted to make a few refinements to make it perfect for such a Beautiful game! Each ring is produced with a Very tough Nylon material to ensure extreme durability and uniform color. For some added value and finesse we added Raised lettering to showcase the star of the show and hand painted each for a great custom theme look. The ring is specially designed with a split ring opening for an easy straight forward installation and will also accommodate standard playfields as well as ones that are clear coated and slightly smaller in diameter!! The Ringmaster guard is a Complete custom kit including a New replacement Ringmaster Spell Wow decal and a New ultra strong nylon black top Ringmaster disk for a completely Smooth ball travel and minimized air balls!! Simple installation with color image instructions. PM for interest and order. Kits shipping this week complete for $69 US Free shipping. Thanks to all for your interest in our products!!
Will you be selling them without the words in there?
Quoted from Sethman:
Coyote......I've been waiting for you to start making these again, any idea when?
I've been talking to a few neon shops. They are getting rarer and rarer.
I'm at a short stopping point because of a few things - Other projects, and the fact that I don't have my glass pattern anymore; I have to make a new one. And to make a new one, I need an existing neon to take in - and until I have a game of my own back in my colleciton, or find someone (local) willing to loan me theirs, I won't be able to get to the next stage!
Quoted from bobukcat:
I recently had to replace the transformer on mine and since I wasn't sure at first it that was the problem I had called a local Neon shop and they told me if I brought the existing tube in they would give me a quote to make a new one. I had every intention of doing that but when I put the new transformer in and it worked I had an overwhelming desire to put it all back in the game and not risk screwing anything up by pulling the tube out of the ramp so I never did it. I did just use hardware to hold the ramp back together as I don't have a rivet press so it would be fairly simple for me to pull mine out and take it to the shop.
That's another reason I haven't gone head-first into remaking the custom neons.
When I was doing them back in the 00's, I was able to get them at a discount, because I was friends with the shop owner, and they were teaching me how to make them. (In return, I sold him a pinball game, that they put in their break-room.)
Now, he has closed up shop - and due to work changes, I no longer have my mornings off to hook up with another shop and create that kind of relationship. Which means prices will be higher. It's also posible that colors will be more limited, as when I was at that shop, I got access to order what raw tubes I thought would be neat to use - and whatever was left over, he bought from me.
Other than looking at the colors and the game and going, 'Dood, Violet and Emerald Green look FANTASTIC togeher!', I wasn't adding anything in the creation. So literally, anyone can take their tube out, over to a neon shop, and say 'I want this reproduces, in <colors>'.
(By the way, Emerald Green is a freaking AWESOME color. )
Usually it's only needed once, as a 'trace pattern' (a 'copy' of the design, laid out on paper twice, for profiles) is made, so that it can be reproduced.
My last trace got lost down in Georgia, and then my last neon tube (to make a trace *from*) shattered on it's way out here to WV.
Quoted from Chosen_S:
I don't mean to bring any ick and non original talk to this section, but has anyone considered using the LED Neon for the neon tube, its flexible, looks like real neon, can come in multiple colors, or even RGB, Im sure could be controlled by the game possibly. take a look, may-be food for thought?
amazon.com link »
Two issues -
It can only be cut in 1ft increments. You.. would need to do some really neat hiding or conflagualting there.
Quoted from Chosen_S:
I believe at its core, they're 12v led strips, also if you're keen enough, you can actually cut them much much shorter than every 1 ft... I don't need to upgrade mine, but they sure got me thinking
True.. Sometimes the cut areas are down to three inches. The ones I got couldn't be trimmed any shorter, or the ones that were left in tha t'cut' segment were dark.
Quoted from Chosen_S:
I guess one of us is going to have to take some time to play with this
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Send some over! Would love to play with that!
Note that while I may seem against this.. I am.
I think the RGB LEDs would be awesome use if someone made like a 'Continued' version of the game (like CCC), that would then take advantage of the RGB LEDs and shift them according to gameplay. THAT would be awesome.
Quoted from whthrs166:
Here is a pic of the Sample Ring Master mod to inhibit the ball stick issue behind the Skinny Ringmaster. I played one game with the original configuration and the ball got stick back there immediatly. After I installed the mod I havent had a stick yet and it’s been almost a year.
[quoted image][quoted image]
When a sample CV dialed in and leveled properly, the ball will not get stuck behind that target with a sample RM head.
The RM head was enlarged to prevent the small head from 'grabbing' the ball and pulling it down into the cabinet, taking the ball out of play. THey released the tech bulletin when they found out the larger head wasn't letting the ball roll past the RM head.
On *THAT SPECIFIC GAME* you did not need to do that.
How do I know? That's MY OLD GAME. That game was used to help develop/beta v2.0H. It's good to see the game still alive out there, but... the new hold in the playfield hurts me.
That is because production games had this done at the factory. Only sample, and early CVs had to have this tecnnical bulleting done to it.
Quoted from Aniraf:
The switches seem to be registering correctly. Basically you get ball 1 locked, then ball 2...next thing you know it says "watch high wire ramp for kickout" and it releases both balls. This is not the start of a multiball, it is an error. If I hit another ball up there it will say ball 3 and then correctly start the multiball.
It would appear that it is registering two balls, then deciding to kickout a single which actually kicks out both.
However, it should not be even kicking out the 1 ball. It should be giving you the third ball down in the shooter lane.
This can happen if:
It doesn't see the 2nd lock switch held closed,
It sees the 3rd lock switch closed (with or without the 2nd lock switch closed), or
It sees 2nd lock switch closed without 1st lock switch closed.
Essentially, the game's seeing seomthign OTHER than Lock 1 and Lock 2 switches closed.
Edit to add: Likely, the second ball is pressing the first one up and off of Lock #1 switch. Which is why I said to go into test mode, and watch the lock switches as you roll balls onto the wire ramp.
Quoted from whthrs166:
This condition can happen to a game that has no switch issues. I like my game angle set steep. So when I get the second and third lock balls they sometimes will make the first locked ball ride up the post some. If your switches are set too tight that first switch will release when the second and third balls lock. If you change your switches to roller type this condition will not happen. Or you can just adjust your existing switches (especially that first one) to allow for the ball to move up on that post a bit.
However, when the ball rides up and causes the first switch to not register, I still call that a 'switch issue'. A way around this, also - without needing to adjust your switches, and what I had to do to every CV I owned/had on route - squeeze the top metal guide down - to prevent the balls running up.
I like my games steep, so I did this to all of them. Muhaha.
I think that when I had mine, I kept both of mine on the steeper side - 7-7.5. I like fast games, too.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:
Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?
I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.
Your Trough Jam opto is bad, or the game is seeing it as blocked. The 'light kicks' are the coil eject trying to get the balls to settle back down into the trough properly.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:
I posted a video in the FB Pinball repair group it can't here.
All the trough opto's work fine in test including the eject opto 31, the shooter lane switch works fine. Everything seems to work fine balls are kicked out fine when they are supposed to be even during multiball or ball saves.
Just say after ball one is shot into the shooter lane I get soft hits from the through coil usually 3 to 5 hits then it goes away until I drain then again after say ball 2 gets kicked out. They are soft fantom like hits, they are not hard enough to shoot a ball into the shooter lane. But if i drain and the ball saver is on it kicks out just fine, coil hits hard.
I pulled the through mech out cleaned and waxed the trough, reflowed the opto boards, the transmitters are all working.
With the game in switch test I never see anything going in or out even with shaking of the machine. I'm going to swap in another trough receiver board from another game but with the coil hits being soft it's not like a standard trough board issue with a bad or dirty opto at least it doesn't seem that way because I'm not getting extra alls put in play just soft coil hits from the trough coil.
Don't know what else to say, 'cept something's no right. That's what that 'light kicking' is doing, and why it's doing it.
I would start a game with the coin door open (with high-power interlock closed, so coils work, of course), and start a game. When the ball is kicked out to the shooter lane and it does the light jam kick, go into Test Mode, T.3 Single Switch Test, and look at switch 31. The graphic shoudl show a LIT/filled square (not an empty one) and the description on screen should *NOT* have an "(A)" on it.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:
normal through issues with extra balls getting kicked out
Cameron wrote this code, and specifically adjusted the coil kickout to AVOID kicking out a second ball. Yeah - he did that on purpose, and AFAIK, it was written into the OS this way so games / firmwares released afterward (and that used the new OS) took advantage of this feature.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:
Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.
I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?
I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.
The Home ROM would cause it to fire like that. I mean, it would, but if it thought there was a ball stuck or something. My guess is that since the switch shows closed in switch test, likely you have a failing transmitter or receiver on your trough opto board. I'd do that before touching the board in the backbox.
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