(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

5 years ago

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  • 1,055 posts
  • 169 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Gotfrogs
  • Topic is favorited by 87 Pinsiders


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#129 4 years ago

Just found my CV and joined the club, dirty , dirty this one is!

I replaced the neon transformer, the neon still does not work, so I have a new neon and a few other parts on their way.

Super excited to have this fine game!!!

Question, when I launch the ball, is the ball supposed to hit the post and stall or is the ball supposed to orbit the RM and go to the flippers?



#131 4 years ago

Dupe post

#132 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

You're supposed to hit the target labeled "Skill Shot"...
The auto-pluge sends the ball round the ringmaster quite often on my game.

I think I'll replace my shooter spring, but maybe an adjustment is needed? Because I believe my auto plunger hits the post and stalls. When I manually plunge full force, I almost hit the skill shot, just right above it

#134 4 years ago

I confirmed with the manual, green shooter spring is correct

#135 4 years ago

Anyone know the correct rivets to use for the neon ramp enclosure?

Or is there an alternate method if I'd like to change it again in the future?

2 weeks later
#141 4 years ago

I'm gathering parts to give mine a full shop out, I want to LED mine like Namsan's, anyone know what he used, especially the greens behind the ring master, and the blue in the slings???

#142 4 years ago

I also want to order clear rubber, anyone have a list of the rings needed?

Thank you!

#144 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

First thing, do not go by either of the lists saved on Titan's site, they are incorrect. These are my numbers after recently tearing my CV down to replace ALL rings.
4 post sleeves
7 mini posts(3/8 or 7/16 O.D.) I went with 7/16th
1-1 1/4 "
3-1 1/2"
1-2 1/4"
2-2 1/2"
1-3 1/2"
2 flippers
1 shooter tip
I went with purple, although after installing and looking at it, I wish it were a darker purple.


Thank you so much! I noticed that Titans site took them off, I had read they were misleading

#146 4 years ago

Anyone have an insert led list, I want to change everything over but havnt had a chance to go counting yet

1 week later
#152 4 years ago
Quoted from mjfisher:

Well I've just finished a playfield swap, changed my leds and added some mirror blades. Just need to adjust a few things here and there and I'm done. Pretty scary drilling all those holes but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and no major disasters. Here's some pics:

I bet that was really hard to do, great job... where did you get your instruction cards?

2 months later
#167 4 years ago

Would I be wrong in saying replace the capicators on the power board? My other games that have emitted this type of behavior required me to rebuild the power supplies.

2 months later
#183 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptMonkeyPants:

Just joined the club last night. Found one locally - a guy on Craigslist posted his whole collection of 5 or so machines and I emailed him right away about his CV. He was asking under market value so I assumed there would be some issues to deal with, but after getting to his house I saw that other than a good cleaning and shop job, everything was in really, really good condition. Just a small crack in a clear plastic protector and the ringmaster Wow decal needs replacement and that's pretty much it.
Already ordered a bunch of stuff - adding LEDs and such. I plan to have the legs and rails powder coated. I haven't decided on a color yet - I've seen photos of the green and it looks great. I was maybe thinking a blue or red as well - I might have to put some photos into Photoshop and play around with different colors.

That's great news!
I really like it in all chrome, I know it's a lot of hand prints to clean, but it can really pop. Can't wait to see how yours turns out!

2 weeks later
#193 3 years ago
Quoted from tdunbar:

Did somebody say chrome, here is my chromed


bro, get the metal shooter rod, it will help the front blend a lot more nicely


1 month later
#203 3 years ago

It was beautiful, I want one for mine

2 weeks later
#207 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

My neon is not working. I just replaced the transformer for a new one, so that probably isn't the problem. With my multimeter, I get about 13v on both lugs.
Can anybody tell me where I should look first? You know, before blaming the actual neon tube? Any help is appreciated!


#216 3 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Straight drain between flippers hits metal apron on an edge. Most likely you may not notice but it will scratch up the apron if not protected in some way. Some
May not care but check game if you do -may go ahead an use Mylar for now. Thanks again

Wax the area really good before you place the Mylar , then the Mylar will remove easily if you need to

#218 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptMonkeyPants:

I had a bunch of metal parts powder coated by a local guy on my CV for $125. I wasn't sure about the purple color but I think it turned out really well. The photos don't do the color justice, it is a really bright, sparkly purple and fits the theme of the game nicely.


So pretty, thank you for sharing

2 weeks later
#222 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

Hi CV clubmembers,
Im so lucky to own a very beautifull CV (since 5 yrs now). One thing that always worries me is lowering the playfield after some maintenance. It tends..no it does always does, hit the DMD protection plastic with the magnet mini pf if I can call it that. I had to replace the plastic once already as I wasn't aware in the beginning.
Now I' ve heard that there is some kind of bracket available which keeps the DMD plastic-protector close to the DMD so there is more room to maneuver the PF back into its position.
How do you deal with this issue, is it an issue for all CV's? Any one know about this special bracket and where to buy it?

I've replaced the plastic on mine as well. I have to remember every time I work on it to remember not to forget about that piece of plastic. I would certainly like to know about this bracket as well

#229 3 years ago

I think maybe its part of the camaraderie of owning a CV, knowing how to properly lower the PF without damaging the plastic shroud

Thats a crazy bracket, that's the first time Ive seen one, did you install it?

3 months later
#247 3 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I ordered the ColorDMD

I will one day

1 month later
#297 3 years ago

Mirror blades look amazing on Tron, but I haven't even considered any other game for mirror accept CV. although I am fond of the Black Sideboards

8 months later
#419 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Yeah, I looked at it...I have no idea how to remove/replace those rivets. Why the hell did they use those?? I think some bolts would have been just fine :/.

Or zip ties done right looks good too...

You don't need a playfield protector in a home environment, if you plan to put it on location to earn money, then maybe consider it, otherwise it's just a product to cause some folks to jump. Keep the pf waxed and you'll be golden. Look around for Vid1900's how to threads and learn pinball till your eyes bleed. Also, there's a good book on eBay I wish I had bought years ago..."pinball machine care and maintenance" lots of good reference for the new guy. If you can fix stuff on CV, you can fix stuff on almost anything, it's crammed with just about every piece of tech in pinball.

I think the haze in the neon plastic is typical, the only way I cleared mine up only a little bit was flame polishing it; not a task to learn on this piece though...

Oh also, I think it's sort of a right of passage with CV to learn to lower the playfield down just right with out breaking the dmd plastic, slow and steady

Have fun with your new game!

4 weeks later
#446 2 years ago
Quoted from kurgan999:

What a special day for me and my brother ... we joined CIRQUS!

Looks sweet! Hope you're having a boat load of fun!!!

#453 2 years ago

Such a gorgeous game!

3 weeks later
#478 2 years ago

Dont leave us!!!

Jk, glws!!

2 months later
#573 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I've tried that. Also tried bending the wire. I even tried removing one of the screws holding the switch body and using some double-stick tape and the single screw, angled the body to reduce the dead spot before the switch activates. Still no luck. I guess I just haven't hit the sweet spot yet. Maybe I need to bend the wire at the elbow so rather than angling backward it continues to extend forward? I'm just concerned the wire will snap.

Have you checked the wire plug that goes from the backbox to the head?

2 months later
#633 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I second mschonbrun's instruction, and agree with coyote only do this while the game is running at full steam and you're dripping wet .

I think that might ignite the boom balloon

2 weeks later
#655 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

I'd just like to show off my own custom mod red back box bell. It's a high quality metal bell which I've made red and attatched using my own system though I was inspired by the awesome Namsan. This is the 2nd original revamp mod I've tried And I'll blog on it. The other is the long life high impact 2 tier gameplay menagerie ball. I'm impressed with myself haha

What is the 2 tier gameplay menagerie ball you speak of?

2 months later
#672 1 year ago

Has anyone else had a difficult time keeping leds in the slings? Mine pop out all the time, any solutions??

#674 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballCoug:

Same thing was happening on my CV and I used electrical tape to "fatten" up the lamp so it fit tighter, under the wire of course. Someone also suggested a small drop of hot glue to hold it in place but I didn't select that option.

Thank you , I’ll try out the options

#676 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I left those ones incandescent just because I liked the look a little more. I would be interested to find out what you do.

Comet Pinball LEDs have some ice blue that look amazing in there, I’ve used hot glue before, but they just pop out still, the old Bally sling 555 sockets hold leds super tight, I’m going to look for some to see if they fit and swap them out

#685 1 year ago

I followed this guys restoration, his LED work was spot on


#687 1 year ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Wow that's a Hell of a Restore. Going to try some of his mods, going to try that bell and see how annoying it is

It’s perfect, you’ll like it

3 months later
#736 1 year ago

I don't mean to bring any ick and non original talk to this section, but has anyone considered using the LED Neon for the neon tube, its flexible, looks like real neon, can come in multiple colors, or even RGB, Im sure could be controlled by the game possibly. take a look, may-be food for thought?

amazon.com link »

#738 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Two issues -
It's 120/240v.
It can only be cut in 1ft increments. You.. would need to do some really neat hiding or conflagualting there.

I believe at its core, they're 12v led strips, also if you're keen enough, you can actually cut them much much shorter than every 1 ft... I don't need to upgrade mine, but they sure got me thinking

#741 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I think this is actually pretty interesting. I would imagine you could make a little money selling these as mod for #CV. I wonder how “real” it looks.

It looks pretty good, even up close, With the RGB, you can see a very slight break between the LEDs, with the solid colors, there is no break between the LEDs whatsoever. It also makes my eyes feel weird looking at it the way that real neon makes my eyes feel .

Quoted from Coyote:

True.. Sometimes the cut areas are down to three inches. The ones I got couldn't be trimmed any shorter, or the ones that were left in tha t'cut' segment were dark.

I guess one of us is going to have to take some time to play with this

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#744 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Send some over! Would love to play with that!
Note that while I may seem against this.. I am.
I think the RGB LEDs would be awesome use if someone made like a 'Continued' version of the game (like CCC), that would then take advantage of the RGB LEDs and shift them according to gameplay. THAT would be awesome.

I’m against it too, I was kind of hesitant suggesting it, but who knows... leds are all the rave, blah blah blah

I love the application of this led neon for a lot of things

6 months later
#827 10 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

What have you guys done with your scrolls to attache them? I want to put them on but don't want to screw them into the backbox...and not sure about double sided tape on new decals?
Any ideas please.

I don’t have scrolls, but just thinking; you could drill some clean #6 clean holes and run bolts. Less dirty than screw holes when removed

#829 10 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

This sounds like it would still entail drilling into the head which I really want to try and avoid.

Some magnetic wizardry? That happens Down under right?

4 months later
#907 6 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

In under the wire! Just under 2 years!
Got my CV on August 16, 2017
I consider the restoration completion date to officially be July 7, 2019: the day that I put the modded blue bumper back onto the correct side of the ball guide.
Given that I wanted to give this machine the treatment & not get distracted, I didn't play it even once when I got it (yes, I played it several times before I bought it); I didn't play it for the first time until last week, when it was all together (&, as expected, needed a few straightforward things ironed out).
WOW. Worth the wait*. Amazing machine.
Did a rather thorough restoration:
- Replaced half the plastics, Novus polished the other half
- Pulled off all PF top parts (except those pressed-in rail guides that I was concerned would be loose if I pulled & replaced them)
- Pulled off most of the PF bottom parts to clean/refurbish
- Cleaned & polished & waxed the naked PF a few times
- Tumble polished all metal hardware that would fit in my tumbler, hand-polished the rest
- All LEDs--generally color-matched under inserts & white elsewhere
- All new clear rubbers
- All new clear plastic posts (the game is vibrant enough as-is; I wanted to highlight the existing art colors rather than mask or skew them w/ additional color)
- All new flipper assemblies
- Rebuilt pops & slings
- Pinbits blackout PCB (AWESOoooOoOoOoME!!!)
- All new standup targets
- Added green LEDs under the ringmaster
- Ringmaster hole metal ring to cover a little wear
- Light-up flipper buttons
Attached are a couple of pics of the stripped PF vs. the finished game.
I documented the heck out of it, knowing that I would have little time to work on it, working in fits & starts w/ months-long gaps. Also, I needed to know where all the polished hardware went after exiting the tumbler. Baggies & Sharpies FTW!
I'll share my photo gallery--perhaps it is of some use to the club.
282 pictures (after deleting 100ish dupes/blurries/redundants):
[quoted image][quoted image]
*well, OK, it's great & all, but no game is worth a 2-year wait & way too much labor & extra cost on top of purchase--I am never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever doing this level of restoration again. Ever. Never ever.

Hahahahahaha! Never say never! Lol

Let us know how the leds stay in the slings... mine keep popping out on the right sling,I end up finding them later in the ball trough

2 months later
#968 3 months ago

When shooting the ball, the ball is supposed to go around the ringmaster correct?

Mine shoots the ball where it bounces and stalls and rolls down to the flippers.

Is there a common fix?

#973 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Are you talking about a shot from one of the flippers (which) or a ball plunge? Plunge / launch should be aiming for the skill shot target that is facing the end of the shooter lane. Soft plunges will hit below it or completely miss the end of the ramp and head towards the left flipper. Hard plunges will usually go into the gap for the Juggler kick-out and can end bouncing around and heading down the middle.
Solid flipper shots to either side of the SPIN loop should be smooth and hitting the right side of the loop will often lead to a SDTM though both sides can be a bit dangerous in that regards.

Thank you!
It’s the plunge, sounds like mine is doing the proper thing, what shooter spring is the right one? I think I used the one the manual suggests, but I’m thinking it may be too much spring

1 month later
#1004 56 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

The Williams part # is: 20-10293....there is but 1 in CV I believe.....best to search Pinside for more information than Google....that said mine is a replacement for the original switch that went unobtainum a few years ago - thus if your MRS went bad - that was that (you can attempt a repair - but it's tricky)....mine are lighter, thinner and more sensitive than the originals...another use for an MRS is that it can be a replacement for any number of Cherry switches in a pin- limited to its form-factor of course - plastic ramps are a great example of their overall replacement use as an example. Lot's of folks use them as replacements ..... in the Sega world - Maverick had problems with the paddlewheel opto's - Sega's fix was to replace the entrance opto's with Sega's own variation (in the above pic) of an MRS....hope that helps!

I’d like to purchase one possibly, just to have as a backup

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