(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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#103 4 years ago

I've had mine for about 12 years, a re-import from Germany that my wife bought me for Christmas (they're both keepers!). I have resisted putting LEDs in it because I really like the incandescent look more on most machines but I have to say that all of the mods and pictures here are making me reconsider it. I have no intention of ever selling it because it's my favorite and the prices they go for now are a little crazy, so no need to worry that someone else may not like my mods. I especially like that mirrored finish ball cradle under the Ringmaster, will be ordering one ASAP!

#109 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

The kit includes:
- Monstrous metal part that attaches to the DMD-holder and is supposed to guide the mini-pf when pulling out the PF.
- A post and washer that goes on the left side of the RM behind the yellow target.
- A little white plastic thing that goes on to the post that holds the middle part of the high wire ramp, it makes it steeper so the balls don't get stuck in the lock.
- Large metal bracket that guards the right spinner switch and the switch unter the neon ramp
Some other stuff i forgot.
The only ones you need are the highwire plastic ring, the post for the RM and the switch guard.

The kit was P/N A-22270 and in addition to the items you mention it covers lubricating the Ringmaster CAM with Teflon grease (or Magna-Lube) to prevent the switch from bending. I actually have the kit (bought NOS years ago) and printed instructions. One thing you have to do to install the bracket to protect the DMD cover from the mini play field is trim off the corner of the cover, something I couldn't bring myself to do so I just left it as is and didn't install the bracket. I also didn't install the post on the left of the RM, can't stand the thought of putting a hole in the playfield and I don't know that I've ever seen a CV with that post installed.

#111 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Both my sample CVs never had the kits installed. When the game is leveled properly, the highwire lock worked, and while balls may go through that little area next to the RM, I never had any balls get stuck there (since both my games had the thin RM installed..)

Even with the regular RM installed there have been very few times the ball sticks there and as soon as it goes to ball search and the RM raises it comes right out. The balls coming off the ramp work just fine if you install switches with the rollers on them which is a must IMO.

3 months later
#119 4 years ago
Quoted from deeproot:

I bought Chad's a couple of months ago. Anyone have any suggestions on a specific problem? I'd say 50% of the time a shot up the right acrobats ramp ends up flying off the bottom left wireform right before the holedrop, and rolling on top of the left slingshot and flipper to the drain/trough. I used a leveler and it is level right to left. I tried adjusting down the machine back height but that didn't help. Is that a normal issue, or any quick fixes?

I've had my CV for 10+ years and fought with the acrobat shot many, many times. When I recently shopped it I decided to keep working on it until I had it working 100% of the time. It took a lot of slight bending of both the wireform and the placement / angle of the plastic at the top that is there to keep it from flying off at the first bend. The end result is such that if the ball is going fast enough to go airborne at the top, or to eventually fly off at the bend down toward the sling, it hits the plastic just enough to slow it down. I had to bend the support for the plastic much farther down than it had been when I got it and to create a more banked bend to the wireform. I spent a lot of time tweaking it so that it will not prevent a marginal shot from making it all the way but still slows down rocket-shots with a freshly waxed PF, rebuilt flippers, etc. That shot is hard enough for me to consistently hit, really pisses me off when the ball won't stay on the wireform! My advice is to make very small adjustments one at a time and to take your time with trial and error. Good luck!

11 months later
#223 3 years ago

There was a kit (A-22270) that WMS issued back in the day that addressed this and several other things (if you've seen CV with a post behind the "Bally" target on the left of the RM it was part of this kit). I bought one of these kits somewhere many years ago but never installed it because it requires you to trim a piece out of the DMD cover to fix that problem and I certainly didn't want to drill a hole in my PF to install the post by the RM. Here's a picture of the instructions related to the DMD cover fix.

CVDMDCoverInst_(resized).jpg

#225 3 years ago

Yeah, most of the stuff in the "Upgrade Kit" was mostly unnecessary IMO. As for the Highwire locks I just installed roller switches to make it work better period.

#228 3 years ago

Here are few photos of the bracket that was in the kit if it helps, I never really understood exactly what it was supposed to accomplish.

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#230 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I think maybe its part of the camaraderie of owning a CV, knowing how to properly lower the PF without damaging the plastic shroud
Thats a crazy bracket, that's the first time Ive seen one, did you install it?

No, I started to many years ago when I bought this kit from someone but when I saw you have to trim the plastic piece to do so I chickened out, didn't want to screw it up.

3 months later
#254 3 years ago

Ordered the ColorDMD as well and should have it tomorrow. If anyone wants a good deal on a green XPin LED DMD let me know.

#257 3 years ago
Quoted from parabol420:

I have a question for everyone. What do you all use to keep the left ramp flap down on the playfield? Mine wants to constantly lift up, even though the ramp and the flap are brand new. I used some doubled sided 3M tape/glue like substance, and that holds it down for a few days, but it eventually comes back up. When that happens, I wipe off the 3M stuff (it rolls up in your hand like rubber cement), lay down a fresh piece, and repeat about once a week.
Pic of the left side starting to come up. Based on my experience, the whole thing will be up in the air by tomorrow.

Did you try gently bending the ramp flap down with the ramp removed from the game? I've had to to that more than once on new ramps I've bought for games.

1 month later
#292 3 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

That's interesting....mine has a notch on the bottom right about a half inch by two inches to accommodate enough room for the upper mini-playfield to not hit when moving the playfield. This one doesn't have it.

Notching it was part of the service kit they issued that also included a bracket to help hold that side in. I think most owners didn't want to cut that plastic so most (that I've seen anyway) are not notched.

4 months later
#310 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Ok I'm in the club, I picked up this early Chris Hutchins restored CV sample game from a friend this weekend.. the game is stunning!! The clear coat on the playfield looks like glass.. it's the nicest playfield clear coat I have ever seen!
One small issue is that the ringmaster is not registering hits all the time, I am not framiliar with this mech and idea what to check first?

Looks like a beauty. The ringmaster has an eddy sensor for hits directly to it (not the two bally hoo target switches), you may be able to adjust the potentiometer on it to make it more consistent. I put the auto eddy board from Pinbits in mine and it made it a lot better but it looks like they're sold out.

#315 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

So I guess I should just order the new Eddy board from pinbits, hopefully they get them back in stock soon

I've never looked at the old board too closely (I'm sure I still have it around somewhere) but I'm guessing it's the same or similar to the ones that used in multiple games. Based on my experience (HUO) with those once they are adjusted right they keep working for a long time so I'd recommend you just adjust the one you have and see if you're good to go for a while.

#317 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I will give it a try
I'm going to dig thru the manual and see if I can find an adjustment procedure for the Eddy board.

Copied from another post:

* On the under the playfield eddy sensor control board, turn the potentiometer counter-clockwise until the LED just turns on.
* Now turn the potentiometer back clockwise until the LED just turns off.
That is all that is required to adjust the STNG/ToM/RS eddy sensor. To test the sensor, put the game into WPC diagnostic's first switch test. Then move a pinball over the playfield area where the eddy sensor is located. The switch should activate on display. Also from the bottom of the playfield, the eddy board LED should go ON as a ball passes in front of the eddy board's senssor (this can be seen anytime, the game does not need to be in switch test.)

2 weeks later
#334 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Holy cow, those are horrid!
Yeah, get the switches with the rollers - while not technically OEM (I'm not sure why WMS didn't use them.. DE used them everywhere back then!) they work millions times better.

I second this, replace the switches with the roller actuators. Chasing problems isn't worth it and those switches are almost certainly intermittent after what they've been through.

#342 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

And don't go bringing the effin' JPop crap here, please. Leave it in the respected threads.

Amen!

#355 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

rollover switches in: same problems.
switches are too strong; that's the bottom line. i need a lane switch. something that can't hold the ball up. i tried bending the wire form top down and i got balls stuck on the vertical part of that piece.
i'm so f'n depressed.

The switches being too strong is not the problem or we'd all have this issue. It appears that either the top of that guide must be too high and it's letting the ball raise too far, although I don't think I've ever seen the ball actually touching that guide on my game. If you want to measure it I'd be willing to pull the glass on mine and do the same for comparison. What's the slope of your game set to? Can you take a picture from the side of how the habitrail is attached to the top of the post and what's between it and the top of the post?

#358 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

this is such a crappy design, no?
when the switch is too low, it won't stay down. then i get it too high, and the second ball gets stuck on it when multiball starts. so frustrating.
i actually got it to work once before i stopped messing with it. i had to find that fine line. we'll see what it does next time...

I would say no just because mine has been basically perfect since I put roller switches in it which was right after I got it many years ago. It's pinball, shit breaks - that's part of its charm!!

#362 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

My h/w lock has never failed since i installed the roller switches. You might want to check if you have the nylon spacer installed (fix No. 2 from the service bulletin below), it makes the last part of the ramp much steeper.
Regarding the BB, are the rollover switches all registering?

I would think making the ramp steeper would be worse, not better for his problem. I did notice that you have an additional piece of metal, which looks like a ramp protector tab under the habitrail mounting point on top of the post. Mine does not have that and it makes me wonder if it's pushing the habitrail up enough that the ball is hitting the tapered part of the up/down post and pushing the ball upwards. Would still like to see a good picture of that spot from the side to get a better understanding of how far the post is extended about the habitrail.

3 months later
#423 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Empties the balls to the shooter lane so you can take the balls out of the game so you can lift the playfield.

It will eject any balls that are locked or in the VUK too, the idea is that you grab them before they go back into the trough.

1 month later
#467 2 years ago

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

#471 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Excellent! I hope you find a donor.

I feel confident I can find a donor, I'm willing to offer my labor on other projects (board work, general pin diagnostics, etc.) to make it happen.

#472 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Good to hear!
Now we just need someone with plastics experience to make the RM protector..!

I thought that none of those ever really worked very well - I've heard the metal one would get caught and bend and that the plastic ones never fit very well so they moved and caused wear. If people are interested maybe someone like indypinhead that does quite a bit of plastic work could come up with something.

#475 2 years ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

We are possibly purchasing a CV from a local used pinball distributor. It seems to play perfectly, but I do not know much about this game. We are going to see it again tomorrow and possibly buy it. I haven't had much experience in checking out the older games, is there any typical problem areas that we should look at more closely?

CVs are pretty well known for having ghosted inserts especially the "Ring" lightning bolt shaped ones and it's fairly common to have chips missing around at least one of the rollovers. The ghosting doesn't affect game play and you can put cliffys around the rollovers. As long as all the parts are there (including the blue nub of death holder referenced in the posts above this, which is often missing) you should be good. Make sure the neon works and it is neon (not LED), the flashers in the RM head work and check to see if it has the auto-eddy board in it to better register RM hits. The only other common problem that I can think of is that the switches for the highwire locks should be swapped out with roller actuators to make sure the balls clear more reliably. Might want to check to see if the Acrobats shot can be made properly, you can always adjust the ramp and guides later but it can be tricky to get it right, otherwise the ball flies off the wireform on hard shot or won't make it all the way on marginal shots.

#481 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I just bought one of these from pinbits! I emailed them directly trying to see if they had one laying around, and they surprisingly emailed me back and said yes! I will most likely get it this week, and I'll gladly send it to you if that means that more people can have it! Like I said, it's sight unseen right now, but I should know more very soon.

That's crazy, I've e-mailed them at least a dozen times about that part and they have never responded once! Please PM me once you receive it.

#482 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there a way to adjust this? I posted on this guy's thread and never heard any answer - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-falling-off-acrobat-ramp-on-cv

Yes, but it's not real easy and requires a lot of trial and error. I spent hours on mine, slightly bending the wire form, adjusting the mounting angle, bending and adjusting the plastic guides that are there to keep the ball from flying off, etc. I finally have it to the point that a marginal shot will still make it and a blazing shot will hit the plastic guide, look like it's going to stop and go backwards but still go down the wire form and make the shot. I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker if the ball flies off on fast shots, most of them I've played are like that and you can tweak it to remedy the problem.

2 weeks later
#506 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

3 - The backbox has the real metal bell mod. The ball doesn't seem to be very effective. It often falls short, & it was actually wedged & stuck up against the bell (at about 10:00). It was like that when I brought the game home & put the head up. The ball might be too thick (and heavy?).
What's the recommended ball to use to ding the real bell?
More questions shall trickle in along the way! =D
Thanks,
-Jason

Double check the ball popper isn't loose and that it functions smoothly mechanically. If the sleeve or plunger is worn it can drag, if the plastic where it's mounted it cracked or it's not mounted solidly it won't work well either.

#523 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.
Has anyone seen this?

What is "multi-strike" multiball?

8 months later
#693 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

The Mod Couple welcomes home Cirqus Voltaire with our first CV Mod "The Ringmaster Custom Guard" kit. While we understand this is not a New concept no solutions appear to be available and we wanted to make a few refinements to make it perfect for such a Beautiful game! Each ring is produced with a Very tough Nylon material to ensure extreme durability and uniform color. For some added value and finesse we added Raised lettering to showcase the star of the show and hand painted each for a great custom theme look. The ring is specially designed with a split ring opening for an easy straight forward installation and will also accommodate standard playfields as well as ones that are clear coated and slightly smaller in diameter!! The Ringmaster guard is a Complete custom kit including a New replacement Ringmaster Spell Wow decal and a New ultra strong nylon black top Ringmaster disk for a completely Smooth ball travel and minimized air balls!! Simple installation with color image instructions. PM for interest and order. Kits shipping this week complete for $69 US Free shipping. Thanks to all for your interest in our products!!

I'm very interested for many reasons, one of which is to get rid of the banged up edges of the metal top. I too would like to see the inner ring either blank or with Jackpot instead of the game title. I have the near mirror finish bottom cup in mine so rotating the ring may just lead to me seeing it reflected backward (or would it be forwards, I don't know, I don't really know mirrors) but I'm still likely to order one just to check it out as I love my CV.

Edit, could you post a detailed picture or two of this installed and the RM in the down position?

3 months later
#707 1 year ago

Might want to post a link to the non-beta site.

1 week later
#727 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I've been talking to a few neon shops. They are getting rarer and rarer.
I'm at a short stopping point because of a few things - Other projects, and the fact that I don't have my glass pattern anymore; I have to make a new one. And to make a new one, I need an existing neon to take in - and until I have a game of my own back in my colleciton, or find someone (local) willing to loan me theirs, I won't be able to get to the next stage!

I recently had to replace the transformer on mine and since I wasn't sure at first it that was the problem I had called a local Neon shop and they told me if I brought the existing tube in they would give me a quote to make a new one. I had every intention of doing that but when I put the new transformer in and it worked I had an overwhelming desire to put it all back in the game and not risk screwing anything up by pulling the tube out of the ramp so I never did it. I did just use hardware to hold the ramp back together as I don't have a rivet press so it would be fairly simple for me to pull mine out and take it to the shop.

2 months later
#755 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there a way to test/fix the single ball out of the high wire? Oftentimes I end up with 2 balls when it is clearly trying to release just one.
I am unaware of any test which would help me dial that in.

Quoted from branlon8:

I would start by checking the mechanical movement of the rod. Does it move freely or is there friction? The three microswitches on the ramp might be worthwhile looking at. If they are not all working right the ramp can do unexpected things.

Yes, make sure the rod snaps back up without binding on anything, then adjust the switches in switch test mode while rolling balls down to the post and releasing it by hand. Make sure they are releasing easily from rest and if you don't have roller switch arms on all three I'd recommend getting them. You want to make sure the switches are staying down too long as the balls roll off. It can take a little patience as well as trial and error to get it just right.

1 month later
#775 10 months ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I bent the wirefirm slightly at the beginning , middle and end and it fixed my issues. Just mess around with it and u will get it

Bending / adjusting the airball protector at the top of the ramp is also key to getting the shot dialed in, it will take a lot of trial and error but it can be done.

#776 10 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Funny you guys posted about this seems I can't even get the ball to go up that wireform on the acrobat. I tried to tighten down the end of it where it goes into the playfield but I've literally never made this shot. Almost seems like it bounces off the start of the wireform and just falls down by the left side of the ringmaster.

My guess is that it was removed at some point and not reinstalled properly. It is a mostly useless shot unless you have it set to extra hard but it is also rewarding when you really need it and make it.

2 weeks later
#799 10 months ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

It’s not about any technical bullitin. This is about you attacking me over my game that you claim to have preowned that you claimed I drilled holes in the pf to accomadate a mod to elongate the left rubber to keep the ball from sticking on the sample RM. Remember? Wrong on all points!

Take a chill pill, I don't think he attacked you at all and he's just trying to share some information. I can tell you that not all games have any post whatsoever behind that target because mine definitely does not. I bought the service bulletin kit he referenced and it did come with a single post, a wood screw and instructions to drill a hole and put the post in between there to stop ball traps. I did not install it in mine as I feel the RM does a good job of clearing it out quickly when it does get stuck there, it doesn't happen that often, I can shake it loose easily enough and I didn't want to put a new hole in the PF. I have no idea how many games were shipped in each configuration but mine is not a sample, it is a re-import and I don't remember the serial number right now.

2 months later
#842 8 months ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Only screwed in at the top. Didn't want to screw into the sideart.

This may be the best idea yet. I had mine attached with some really good velcro but that when I removed them to make more room in the lineup it pulled the edge of the decal loose a bit so I'd recommend extreme caution with that or double sided tape on the sides.

4 months later
#911 3 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

Has anyone had issues where the ball flies off the Acrobats wire form and runs along the edge of the inner body, bouncing over the air ball plastics, to join the ramp right at the end?
If i hit a hard, well timed shot...this happens to me!!
Thoughts about a possible fix?

Yes, my solution is to slowly and methodically adjust the angle of the wireform and the angle and placement of both the metal ball-guide and the piece of plastic that mounts above it so that really fast shots hit that and are pushed back down onto the wireform. It's tricky to get it to where it only stops one that is destined to fly off but not one that is fast but not fast enough to fly off. The really fast ones will actually result in the ball almost stopping when hitting the plastic but still have enough energy to continue instead of rolling back down the ramp. It took a lot of trial and error to get it just right.

2 weeks later
#913 85 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?
I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.
Thanks

I've read this at least 10 times and still can't tell what it is you're trying to say / describe. Are you saying that it can't kick another ball out into the shooter lane after the first one?

#921 85 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.
I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?
I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.

Have you tried new balls, yours may be magnetized and not rolling all the way down after the ball is ejected. Also make sure there are no divots formed in the trough that will keep the balls from rolling down. Easy test for this would be to start game, have it eject the ball then quickly visually inspect or use switch test to see which optos show closed in the trough.

#925 81 days ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Sweet thanks any specific kit better than the others?

The only one of those that's still in production that I know of is from the Mod Couple and I do NOT recommend it. I put it in mine and will be taking it back out when I get some time. The problem is that due to the design of the RM mech, how the position switches are actuated and the fact that the RM moves in both directions (dual direction motor drive) it is basically impossible to get it to stop exactly where you want it to be in the down position every time. With the metal top you can just adjust it so that it's always really lower than it may need to be but the metal top is flat and flexible enough to bend and compensate for it. With the Plastic top you can't do that anymore. I spent hours trying to tweak it by bending the switch actuator tabs but it's still not ideal and it leads to lots of ball hops. The other problem, or benefit if you think the game should be harder, is that making shots into the RM when fully up is much, much harder than it is without that ring in there. Without it stringing MB Jackpots together is fairly simple as long as you can control the balls when they get ejected, with it a lot of those get rejected and the shot is much tighter. In my opinion the slight amount of wear that occurs on the bare wood around the RM is very minor (I have a re-import that was routed and has who knows how many games on it) it better than this particular kit, don't know about the original one that's no longer available.

#926 81 days ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Just got my first CV, anything I should change or look for right away? Ball jumps high around the ringmaster I’m just assuming that he needs to be adjusted a rick lower. Thanks in advance!![quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure you have the Stern style metal cabinet leg protectors under those green plastic ones or they will cause wrinkling to the decals. Beautiful game, congrats!

#928 80 days ago
Quoted from Sethman:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/65611
I have this one. Works great. It’s also the original style that got re-run.

I hadn't seen that one before, looks like it's thinner than the Mod Couple one I have and may not cause so many rejects. Do you get any ball hop from it when the RM is down?

#937 80 days ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

The game seems dark, any suggestions on GI led lighting colors/choices?

It is hard to tell but it looks like there is some color LEDs in the GI, I'd recommend you replace those with incandescent or the frosted Sunlight 2SMDs from Comet. That will help to brighten it up a lot. Blue and Purple are terrible at actually providing improved visibility when used in GI. I really like incandescent in this game but the same Sunlight LEDs are pretty good though you will probably get flickering unless you disable the dimming feature or add the GIOCD board.

#939 79 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I am putting LEDs in my Simpson's Pinball Party. Are the Comet sunlight better than cool white? I was going to put clear cool white under the inserts and most of the upper playfield. I would put a few frosted cool white at the slings and out lanes. Any thoughts? Thanks.

This is purely subjective as to which is better. I almost always prefer a warmer white unless the game is space themed or similar, if there were a hospital or doctor's office themed game (God forbid) I'd also choose cool white. Not sure how cool white would look in Simpsons but I think the Sunlights would be better. The warmer white is much closer to what you get from incandescent bulbs and to me is just generally more pleasing and doesn't provide "hot spots" as much. My other general rule of thumb (I'm sure someone else came up with it before me) is if I can see the bulb directly I use frosted, not clear LEDs, this applies to LEDs under sling plastics and some other ones as well.

2 weeks later
#963 65 days ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Well the most expensive game of operation I’ve ever played is over. Used my dremmel to cut a pretty deep slot and ended up having to use an impact gun to get the screw out. Waiting for the replacement from pinbits, but the difficult part is over. I ended up cutting even a little deeper than the photo shows.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The Ringmaster has been scalped, good work!

2 weeks later
#969 48 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

When shooting the ball, the ball is supposed to go around the ringmaster correct?
Mine shoots the ball where it bounces and stalls and rolls down to the flippers.
Is there a common fix?

Are you talking about a shot from one of the flippers (which) or a ball plunge? Plunge / launch should be aiming for the skill shot target that is facing the end of the shooter lane. Soft plunges will hit below it or completely miss the end of the ramp and head towards the left flipper. Hard plunges will usually go into the gap for the Juggler kick-out and can end bouncing around and heading down the middle.

Solid flipper shots to either side of the SPIN loop should be smooth and hitting the right side of the loop will often lead to a SDTM though both sides can be a bit dangerous in that regards.

#971 48 days ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I use ROM 1.4 so I am not able to use the Pinbits Top Eddy board. What should I do to update my current board? I'm registering about 60% of the hits currently

Is there a reason you don't want to use 2.0 home rom? Have you adjusted it using the pot on the board?

2 weeks later
#986 27 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I pulled the ringmaster to replace the bulbs and now am getting a switch 16 "top eddy" error. I didn't touch the eddy board and have looked all over and am pretty sure I plugged everything back in and no wires are shorted. Everything else works fine. Any suggestions on where to go from here?

If you put the game in switch test and roll a ball over it does it register?

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