"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans | All clubs (...members only!)

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#103 9 years ago

bobukcat

Pinside member

I've had mine for about 12 years, a re-import from Germany that my wife bought me for Christmas (they're both keepers!). I have resisted putting LEDs in it because I really like the incandescent look more on most machines but I have to say that all of the mods and pictures here are making me reconsider it. I have no intention of ever selling it because it's my favorite and the prices they go for now are a little crazy, so no need to worry that someone else may not like my mods. I especially like that mirrored finish ball cradle under the Ringmaster, will be ordering one ASAP!

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#109 9 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from someoneelse:
The kit includes:
- Monstrous metal part that attaches to the DMD-holder and is supposed to guide the mini-pf when pulling out the PF.
- A post and washer that goes on the left side of the RM behind the yellow target.
- A little white plastic thing that goes on to the post that holds the middle part of the high wire ramp, it makes it steeper so the balls don't get stuck in the lock.
- Large metal bracket that guards the right spinner switch and the switch unter the neon ramp
Some other stuff i forgot.
The only ones you need are the highwire plastic ring, the post for the RM and the switch guard.

The kit was P/N A-22270 and in addition to the items you mention it covers lubricating the Ringmaster CAM with Teflon grease (or Magna-Lube) to prevent the switch from bending. I actually have the kit (bought NOS years ago) and printed instructions. One thing you have to do to install the bracket to protect the DMD cover from the mini play field is trim off the corner of the cover, something I couldn't bring myself to do so I just left it as is and didn't install the bracket. I also didn't install the post on the left of the RM, can't stand the thought of putting a hole in the playfield and I don't know that I've ever seen a CV with that post installed.

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#111 9 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Coyote:
Both my sample CVs never had the kits installed. When the game is leveled properly, the highwire lock worked, and while balls may go through that little area next to the RM, I never had any balls get stuck there (since both my games had the thin RM installed..)

Even with the regular RM installed there have been very few times the ball sticks there and as soon as it goes to ball search and the RM raises it comes right out. The balls coming off the ramp work just fine if you install switches with the rollers on them which is a must IMO.

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1

#119 8 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from deeproot:
I bought Chad's a couple of months ago. Anyone have any suggestions on a specific problem? I'd say 50% of the time a shot up the right acrobats ramp ends up flying off the bottom left wireform right before the holedrop, and rolling on top of the left slingshot and flipper to the drain/trough. I used a leveler and it is level right to left. I tried adjusting down the machine back height but that didn't help. Is that a normal issue, or any quick fixes?

I've had my CV for 10+ years and fought with the acrobat shot many, many times. When I recently shopped it I decided to keep working on it until I had it working 100% of the time. It took a lot of slight bending of both the wireform and the placement / angle of the plastic at the top that is there to keep it from flying off at the first bend. The end result is such that if the ball is going fast enough to go airborne at the top, or to eventually fly off at the bend down toward the sling, it hits the plastic just enough to slow it down. I had to bend the support for the plastic much farther down than it had been when I got it and to create a more banked bend to the wireform. I spent a lot of time tweaking it so that it will not prevent a marginal shot from making it all the way but still slows down rocket-shots with a freshly waxed PF, rebuilt flippers, etc. That shot is hard enough for me to consistently hit, really pisses me off when the ball won't stay on the wireform! My advice is to make very small adjustments one at a time and to take your time with trial and error. Good luck!

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1

#223 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

There was a kit (A-22270) that WMS issued back in the day that addressed this and several other things (if you've seen CV with a post behind the "Bally" target on the left of the RM it was part of this kit). I bought one of these kits somewhere many years ago but never installed it because it requires you to trim a piece out of the DMD cover to fix that problem and I certainly didn't want to drill a hole in my PF to install the post by the RM. Here's a picture of the instructions related to the DMD cover fix.

CVDMDCoverInst_(resized).jpg

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#225 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Yeah, most of the stuff in the "Upgrade Kit" was mostly unnecessary IMO. As for the Highwire locks I just installed roller switches to make it work better period.

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#228 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Here are few photos of the bracket that was in the kit if it helps, I never really understood exactly what it was supposed to accomplish.

IMG_20160428_154541240_(resized).jpg

IMG_20160428_154547421_(resized).jpg

IMG_20160428_154555496_(resized).jpg

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#230 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Chosen_S:
I think maybe its part of the camaraderie of owning a CV, knowing how to properly lower the PF without damaging the plastic shroud
Thats a crazy bracket, that's the first time Ive seen one, did you install it?

No, I started to many years ago when I bought this kit from someone but when I saw you have to trim the plastic piece to do so I chickened out, didn't want to screw it up.

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1

#254 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Ordered the ColorDMD as well and should have it tomorrow. If anyone wants a good deal on a green XPin LED DMD let me know.

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#257 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from parabol420:
I have a question for everyone. What do you all use to keep the left ramp flap down on the playfield? Mine wants to constantly lift up, even though the ramp and the flap are brand new. I used some doubled sided 3M tape/glue like substance, and that holds it down for a few days, but it eventually comes back up. When that happens, I wipe off the 3M stuff (it rolls up in your hand like rubber cement), lay down a fresh piece, and repeat about once a week.
Pic of the left side starting to come up. Based on my experience, the whole thing will be up in the air by tomorrow.

Did you try gently bending the ramp flap down with the ramp removed from the game? I've had to to that more than once on new ramps I've bought for games.

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#292 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Captive_Ball:
That's interesting....mine has a notch on the bottom right about a half inch by two inches to accommodate enough room for the upper mini-playfield to not hit when moving the playfield. This one doesn't have it.

Notching it was part of the service kit they issued that also included a bracket to help hold that side in. I think most owners didn't want to cut that plastic so most (that I've seen anyway) are not notched.

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#310 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Concretehardt:
Ok I'm in the club, I picked up this early Chris Hutchins restored CV sample game from a friend this weekend.. the game is stunning!! The clear coat on the playfield looks like glass.. it's the nicest playfield clear coat I have ever seen!
One small issue is that the ringmaster is not registering hits all the time, I am not framiliar with this mech and idea what to check first?

Looks like a beauty. The ringmaster has an eddy sensor for hits directly to it (not the two bally hoo target switches), you may be able to adjust the potentiometer on it to make it more consistent. I put the auto eddy board from Pinbits in mine and it made it a lot better but it looks like they're sold out.

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#315 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Concretehardt:
So I guess I should just order the new Eddy board from pinbits, hopefully they get them back in stock soon

I've never looked at the old board too closely (I'm sure I still have it around somewhere) but I'm guessing it's the same or similar to the ones that used in multiple games. Based on my experience (HUO) with those once they are adjusted right they keep working for a long time so I'd recommend you just adjust the one you have and see if you're good to go for a while.

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1

#317 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Concretehardt:
I will give it a try
I'm going to dig thru the manual and see if I can find an adjustment procedure for the Eddy board.

Copied from another post:

* On the under the playfield eddy sensor control board, turn the potentiometer counter-clockwise until the LED just turns on.
* Now turn the potentiometer back clockwise until the LED just turns off.
That is all that is required to adjust the STNG/ToM/RS eddy sensor. To test the sensor, put the game into WPC diagnostic's first switch test. Then move a pinball over the playfield area where the eddy sensor is located. The switch should activate on display. Also from the bottom of the playfield, the eddy board LED should go ON as a ball passes in front of the eddy board's senssor (this can be seen anytime, the game does not need to be in switch test.)

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#334 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Coyote:
Holy cow, those are horrid!
Yeah, get the switches with the rollers - while not technically OEM (I'm not sure why WMS didn't use them.. DE used them everywhere back then!) they work millions times better.

I second this, replace the switches with the roller actuators. Chasing problems isn't worth it and those switches are almost certainly intermittent after what they've been through.

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#342 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Coyote:
And don't go bringing the effin' JPop crap here, please. Leave it in the respected threads.

Amen!

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#355 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from weaverj:
rollover switches in: same problems.
switches are too strong; that's the bottom line. i need a lane switch. something that can't hold the ball up. i tried bending the wire form top down and i got balls stuck on the vertical part of that piece.
i'm so f'n depressed.

The switches being too strong is not the problem or we'd all have this issue. It appears that either the top of that guide must be too high and it's letting the ball raise too far, although I don't think I've ever seen the ball actually touching that guide on my game. If you want to measure it I'd be willing to pull the glass on mine and do the same for comparison. What's the slope of your game set to? Can you take a picture from the side of how the habitrail is attached to the top of the post and what's between it and the top of the post?

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#358 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from weaverj:
this is such a crappy design, no?
when the switch is too low, it won't stay down. then i get it too high, and the second ball gets stuck on it when multiball starts. so frustrating.
i actually got it to work once before i stopped messing with it. i had to find that fine line. we'll see what it does next time...

I would say no just because mine has been basically perfect since I put roller switches in it which was right after I got it many years ago. It's pinball, shit breaks - that's part of its charm!!

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#362 7 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from someoneelse:
My h/w lock has never failed since i installed the roller switches. You might want to check if you have the nylon spacer installed (fix No. 2 from the service bulletin below), it makes the last part of the ramp much steeper.
Regarding the BB, are the rollover switches all registering?

I would think making the ramp steeper would be worse, not better for his problem. I did notice that you have an additional piece of metal, which looks like a ramp protector tab under the habitrail mounting point on top of the post. Mine does not have that and it makes me wonder if it's pushing the habitrail up enough that the ball is hitting the tapered part of the up/down post and pushing the ball upwards. Would still like to see a good picture of that spot from the side to get a better understanding of how far the post is extended about the habitrail.

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#423 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from PinballManiac40:
Empties the balls to the shooter lane so you can take the balls out of the game so you can lift the playfield.

It will eject any balls that are locked or in the VUK too, the idea is that you grab them before they go back into the trough.

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1

#467 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

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1

#471 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from rrosenhouse:
Excellent! I hope you find a donor.

I feel confident I can find a donor, I'm willing to offer my labor on other projects (board work, general pin diagnostics, etc.) to make it happen.

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1

#472 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Coyote:
Good to hear!
Now we just need someone with plastics experience to make the RM protector..!

I thought that none of those ever really worked very well - I've heard the metal one would get caught and bend and that the plastic ones never fit very well so they moved and caused wear. If people are interested maybe someone like indypinhead that does quite a bit of plastic work could come up with something.

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1

#475 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Bearcat:
We are possibly purchasing a CV from a local used pinball distributor. It seems to play perfectly, but I do not know much about this game. We are going to see it again tomorrow and possibly buy it. I haven't had much experience in checking out the older games, is there any typical problem areas that we should look at more closely?

CVs are pretty well known for having ghosted inserts especially the "Ring" lightning bolt shaped ones and it's fairly common to have chips missing around at least one of the rollovers. The ghosting doesn't affect game play and you can put cliffys around the rollovers. As long as all the parts are there (including the blue nub of death holder referenced in the posts above this, which is often missing) you should be good. Make sure the neon works and it is neon (not LED), the flashers in the RM head work and check to see if it has the auto-eddy board in it to better register RM hits. The only other common problem that I can think of is that the switches for the highwire locks should be swapped out with roller actuators to make sure the balls clear more reliably. Might want to check to see if the Acrobats shot can be made properly, you can always adjust the ramp and guides later but it can be tricky to get it right, otherwise the ball flies off the wireform on hard shot or won't make it all the way on marginal shots.

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#481 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Aniraf:
I just bought one of these from pinbits! I emailed them directly trying to see if they had one laying around, and they surprisingly emailed me back and said yes! I will most likely get it this week, and I'll gladly send it to you if that means that more people can have it! Like I said, it's sight unseen right now, but I should know more very soon.

That's crazy, I've e-mailed them at least a dozen times about that part and they have never responded once! Please PM me once you receive it.

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#482 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Aniraf:
Is there a way to adjust this? I posted on this guy's thread and never heard any answer - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-falling-off-acrobat-ramp-on-cv

Yes, but it's not real easy and requires a lot of trial and error. I spent hours on mine, slightly bending the wire form, adjusting the mounting angle, bending and adjusting the plastic guides that are there to keep the ball from flying off, etc. I finally have it to the point that a marginal shot will still make it and a blazing shot will hit the plastic guide, look like it's going to stop and go backwards but still go down the wire form and make the shot. I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker if the ball flies off on fast shots, most of them I've played are like that and you can tweak it to remedy the problem.

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#506 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from jasonbar:
3 - The backbox has the real metal bell mod. The ball doesn't seem to be very effective. It often falls short, & it was actually wedged & stuck up against the bell (at about 10:00). It was like that when I brought the game home & put the head up. The ball might be too thick (and heavy?).
What's the recommended ball to use to ding the real bell?
More questions shall trickle in along the way! =D
Thanks,
-Jason

Double check the ball popper isn't loose and that it functions smoothly mechanically. If the sleeve or plunger is worn it can drag, if the plastic where it's mounted it cracked or it's not mounted solidly it won't work well either.

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#523 6 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Aniraf:
I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.
Has anyone seen this?

What is "multi-strike" multiball?

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#693 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Yelobird:
The Mod Couple welcomes home Cirqus Voltaire with our first CV Mod "The Ringmaster Custom Guard" kit. While we understand this is not a New concept no solutions appear to be available and we wanted to make a few refinements to make it perfect for such a Beautiful game! Each ring is produced with a Very tough Nylon material to ensure extreme durability and uniform color. For some added value and finesse we added Raised lettering to showcase the star of the show and hand painted each for a great custom theme look. The ring is specially designed with a split ring opening for an easy straight forward installation and will also accommodate standard playfields as well as ones that are clear coated and slightly smaller in diameter!! The Ringmaster guard is a Complete custom kit including a New replacement Ringmaster Spell Wow decal and a New ultra strong nylon black top Ringmaster disk for a completely Smooth ball travel and minimized air balls!! Simple installation with color image instructions. PM for interest and order. Kits shipping this week complete for $69 US Free shipping. Thanks to all for your interest in our products!!

I'm very interested for many reasons, one of which is to get rid of the banged up edges of the metal top. I too would like to see the inner ring either blank or with Jackpot instead of the game title. I have the near mirror finish bottom cup in mine so rotating the ring may just lead to me seeing it reflected backward (or would it be forwards, I don't know, I don't really know mirrors) but I'm still likely to order one just to check it out as I love my CV.

Edit, could you post a detailed picture or two of this installed and the RM in the down position?

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#707 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Coyote:
Hey CV owners -
Need help identifying a part:
https://beta.pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cv-owners-need-info-from-board

Might want to post a link to the non-beta site.

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#727 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Coyote:
I've been talking to a few neon shops. They are getting rarer and rarer.
I'm at a short stopping point because of a few things - Other projects, and the fact that I don't have my glass pattern anymore; I have to make a new one. And to make a new one, I need an existing neon to take in - and until I have a game of my own back in my colleciton, or find someone (local) willing to loan me theirs, I won't be able to get to the next stage!

I recently had to replace the transformer on mine and since I wasn't sure at first it that was the problem I had called a local Neon shop and they told me if I brought the existing tube in they would give me a quote to make a new one. I had every intention of doing that but when I put the new transformer in and it worked I had an overwhelming desire to put it all back in the game and not risk screwing anything up by pulling the tube out of the ramp so I never did it. I did just use hardware to hold the ramp back together as I don't have a rivet press so it would be fairly simple for me to pull mine out and take it to the shop.

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#755 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from Aniraf:
Is there a way to test/fix the single ball out of the high wire? Oftentimes I end up with 2 balls when it is clearly trying to release just one.
I am unaware of any test which would help me dial that in.

Quoted from branlon8:
I would start by checking the mechanical movement of the rod. Does it move freely or is there friction? The three microswitches on the ramp might be worthwhile looking at. If they are not all working right the ramp can do unexpected things.

Yes, make sure the rod snaps back up without binding on anything, then adjust the switches in switch test mode while rolling balls down to the post and releasing it by hand. Make sure they are releasing easily from rest and if you don't have roller switch arms on all three I'd recommend getting them. You want to make sure the switches are staying down too long as the balls roll off. It can take a little patience as well as trial and error to get it just right.

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#775 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from bigd1979:
I bent the wirefirm slightly at the beginning , middle and end and it fixed my issues. Just mess around with it and u will get it

Bending / adjusting the airball protector at the top of the ramp is also key to getting the shot dialed in, it will take a lot of trial and error but it can be done.

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#776 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from PhillyArcade:
Funny you guys posted about this seems I can't even get the ball to go up that wireform on the acrobat. I tried to tighten down the end of it where it goes into the playfield but I've literally never made this shot. Almost seems like it bounces off the start of the wireform and just falls down by the left side of the ringmaster.

My guess is that it was removed at some point and not reinstalled properly. It is a mostly useless shot unless you have it set to extra hard but it is also rewarding when you really need it and make it.

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#799 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from whthrs166:
It’s not about any technical bullitin. This is about you attacking me over my game that you claim to have preowned that you claimed I drilled holes in the pf to accomadate a mod to elongate the left rubber to keep the ball from sticking on the sample RM. Remember? Wrong on all points!

Take a chill pill, I don't think he attacked you at all and he's just trying to share some information. I can tell you that not all games have any post whatsoever behind that target because mine definitely does not. I bought the service bulletin kit he referenced and it did come with a single post, a wood screw and instructions to drill a hole and put the post in between there to stop ball traps. I did not install it in mine as I feel the RM does a good job of clearing it out quickly when it does get stuck there, it doesn't happen that often, I can shake it loose easily enough and I didn't want to put a new hole in the PF. I have no idea how many games were shipped in each configuration but mine is not a sample, it is a re-import and I don't remember the serial number right now.

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#842 5 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from aeneas:
Only screwed in at the top. Didn't want to screw into the sideart.

This may be the best idea yet. I had mine attached with some really good velcro but that when I removed them to make more room in the lineup it pulled the edge of the decal loose a bit so I'd recommend extreme caution with that or double sided tape on the sides.

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#911 4 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from jardine:
Has anyone had issues where the ball flies off the Acrobats wire form and runs along the edge of the inner body, bouncing over the air ball plastics, to join the ramp right at the end?
If i hit a hard, well timed shot...this happens to me!!
Thoughts about a possible fix?

Yes, my solution is to slowly and methodically adjust the angle of the wireform and the angle and placement of both the metal ball-guide and the piece of plastic that mounts above it so that really fast shots hit that and are pushed back down onto the wireform. It's tricky to get it to where it only stops one that is destined to fly off but not one that is fast but not fast enough to fly off. The really fast ones will actually result in the ball almost stopping when hitting the plastic but still have enough energy to continue instead of rolling back down the ramp. It took a lot of trial and error to get it just right.

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#913 4 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from BertoDRINK1:
Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?
I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.
Thanks

I've read this at least 10 times and still can't tell what it is you're trying to say / describe. Are you saying that it can't kick another ball out into the shooter lane after the first one?

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#921 4 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from BertoDRINK1:
Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.
I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?
I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.

Have you tried new balls, yours may be magnetized and not rolling all the way down after the ball is ejected. Also make sure there are no divots formed in the trough that will keep the balls from rolling down. Easy test for this would be to start game, have it eject the ball then quickly visually inspect or use switch test to see which optos show closed in the trough.

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2

#925 4 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from partyguy1516:
Sweet thanks any specific kit better than the others?

The only one of those that's still in production that I know of is from the Mod Couple and I do NOT recommend it. I put it in mine and will be taking it back out when I get some time. The problem is that due to the design of the RM mech, how the position switches are actuated and the fact that the RM moves in both directions (dual direction motor drive) it is basically impossible to get it to stop exactly where you want it to be in the down position every time. With the metal top you can just adjust it so that it's always really lower than it may need to be but the metal top is flat and flexible enough to bend and compensate for it. With the Plastic top you can't do that anymore. I spent hours trying to tweak it by bending the switch actuator tabs but it's still not ideal and it leads to lots of ball hops. The other problem, or benefit if you think the game should be harder, is that making shots into the RM when fully up is much, much harder than it is without that ring in there. Without it stringing MB Jackpots together is fairly simple as long as you can control the balls when they get ejected, with it a lot of those get rejected and the shot is much tighter. In my opinion the slight amount of wear that occurs on the bare wood around the RM is very minor (I have a re-import that was routed and has who knows how many games on it) it better than this particular kit, don't know about the original one that's no longer available.

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#926 4 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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9y 99,550 5,463

Quoted from partyguy1516:
Just got my first CV, anything I should change or look for right away? Ball jumps high around the ringmaster I’m just assuming that he needs to be adjusted a rick lower. Thanks in advance!![quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure you have the Stern style metal cabinet leg protectors under those green plastic ones or they will cause wrinkling to the decals. Beautiful game, congrats!

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#928 4 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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Quoted from Sethman:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/65611
I have this one. Works great. It’s also the original style that got re-run.

I hadn't seen that one before, looks like it's thinner than the Mod Couple one I have and may not cause so many rejects. Do you get any ball hop from it when the RM is down?

0

#937 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from partyguy1516:
The game seems dark, any suggestions on GI led lighting colors/choices?

It is hard to tell but it looks like there is some color LEDs in the GI, I'd recommend you replace those with incandescent or the frosted Sunlight 2SMDs from Comet. That will help to brighten it up a lot. Blue and Purple are terrible at actually providing improved visibility when used in GI. I really like incandescent in this game but the same Sunlight LEDs are pretty good though you will probably get flickering unless you disable the dimming feature or add the GIOCD board.

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#939 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from drummermike:
I am putting LEDs in my Simpson's Pinball Party. Are the Comet sunlight better than cool white? I was going to put clear cool white under the inserts and most of the upper playfield. I would put a few frosted cool white at the slings and out lanes. Any thoughts? Thanks.

This is purely subjective as to which is better. I almost always prefer a warmer white unless the game is space themed or similar, if there were a hospital or doctor's office themed game (God forbid) I'd also choose cool white. Not sure how cool white would look in Simpsons but I think the Sunlights would be better. The warmer white is much closer to what you get from incandescent bulbs and to me is just generally more pleasing and doesn't provide "hot spots" as much. My other general rule of thumb (I'm sure someone else came up with it before me) is if I can see the bulb directly I use frosted, not clear LEDs, this applies to LEDs under sling plastics and some other ones as well.

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#963 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from partyguy1516:
Well the most expensive game of operation I’ve ever played is over. Used my dremmel to cut a pretty deep slot and ended up having to use an impact gun to get the screw out. Waiting for the replacement from pinbits, but the difficult part is over. I ended up cutting even a little deeper than the photo shows.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The Ringmaster has been scalped, good work!

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#969 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Chosen_S:
When shooting the ball, the ball is supposed to go around the ringmaster correct?
Mine shoots the ball where it bounces and stalls and rolls down to the flippers.
Is there a common fix?

Are you talking about a shot from one of the flippers (which) or a ball plunge? Plunge / launch should be aiming for the skill shot target that is facing the end of the shooter lane. Soft plunges will hit below it or completely miss the end of the ramp and head towards the left flipper. Hard plunges will usually go into the gap for the Juggler kick-out and can end bouncing around and heading down the middle.

Solid flipper shots to either side of the SPIN loop should be smooth and hitting the right side of the loop will often lead to a SDTM though both sides can be a bit dangerous in that regards.

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#971 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from DK:
I use ROM 1.4 so I am not able to use the Pinbits Top Eddy board. What should I do to update my current board? I'm registering about 60% of the hits currently

Is there a reason you don't want to use 2.0 home rom? Have you adjusted it using the pot on the board?

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#986 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from amxfc3s:
I pulled the ringmaster to replace the bulbs and now am getting a switch 16 "top eddy" error. I didn't touch the eddy board and have looked all over and am pretty sure I plugged everything back in and no wires are shorted. Everything else works fine. Any suggestions on where to go from here?

If you put the game in switch test and roll a ball over it does it register?

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#1008 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Gotfrogs:
Sorry for the dumb question but what are these? I tried a google search for MRS pinball but did not get the answer I was looking for? Are these replacements for a broken component or do they have some kind of advantage over what came stock in the game? Thanks!

So it sounds like these can be used to replace the Eddy board for the RM hit sense, interesting.

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#1021 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Anyone know of a source for or a way to make a new clear air-ball prevention main ramp cover plastic, mine just broke during a rather good game. It looks like a fairly simple design so I may be able to create one out of PETG or similar material if I can figure out where to get said material without buying a ton of it. I don't see this offered on Marco or the other normal suppliers.

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#1023 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Gotfrogs:
Full sets are available here:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2833-SET

Seriously thank you for posting that because I didn't realize that kit included that plastic, I thought those were all the backbox pieces. However I'd like to avoid paying ~$70 (with shipping) for one piece of clear plastic so hopefully I can find a way to make one. If not I guess I can just use what I need out of the kit and over other pieces up for sale as people need them.

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#1027 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from in2kiss:
What do you guys do to minimize the stuck ball rate by the ringmaster head (I have the production one)? Does anyone put anything behind the left target (short of a post) to help guard against this or do most just live with it and wait for the ball search to clear?

The field service kit that was issued included instructions for adding a post with a rubber ring there but I have zero desire to drill a new hole into my PF so I just deal with it. It doesn't happen excessively, the game is pretty quick to raise the RM if it gets stuck and initiates a ball search and if a ball gets stuck there during a MB hitting the RM usually dislodges it, therefore I just live with it.

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#1042 4 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from PhillyArcade:
hahaha beautiful mess describes this table perfectly!! That should be the name of this thread! "Welcome to the Circus! It's a beautiful mess" - CV Club for Owners, Fans"

Mine has been relatively trouble-free other than a ball occasionally getting stuck under the end of the Highware lock ball guide. I did have an issue with it when I took it to a local (Pincinnati) show last year but that was all pretty much standard pinball stuff, broken flipper link, failed flipper opto board.

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#1080 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from jasonbar:
My kids have been playing more pinball lately, during quarantine.
I don't know how my 4-year-old girl did this to the CV in the 15 minutes or so that she was playing, but when I showed up:
1. Screen telling player to shoot, but no ball in shooter lane.
2. Ball search kicking in.
3. Ball missing.
4. Credit dot.
5. Where's the ball? It went back there, gesturing somewhere towards back right.
6. Power off. I'll fix this later.
Later
7. Confirm 3 balls.
8. Test report shows 3 switch problems.
9. Pull playfield. When pulling out, hear a CLUNK at the back of the cabinet. I don't know where the ball was, but it fell off the PF into the cabinet as soon as I pulled the PF out a little. That's a new one.
10. One flagged switch was in the backbox. Go into coil test to shoot the backbox ball a few times. Click. Click. Click.
11. WHERE'S THE CANNONBALL!??!?!
12. Oh, it's wedged in the very top right of the backbox, stuck between a flasher & the right frame. That's a new one.
13. Pull backbox assembly, tilt it over to tip the ball out.
14. Another flagged switch: upper jet bumper. Both skirt switches needed cleaning. I *had* noticed the lower one being a bit lethargic, so I can't pin that one on my daughter.
15. Another flagged switch: right loop upper. OK, this one actually does come up pretty regularly but then it clears. Switch works when pressed by my finger. Switch actuates when a ball rolls over it. Kooky.
Well, it's great when what looks like a handful of issues are actually non-issues.
Phew!
-Jason

I would bet the ball was stuck in the ringmaster mech. If the transition to the short subway to the VUK isn't just perfect and the wires aren't out of the way it can get stuck there then when you pull the PF it falls into the cab. Other than under the end of the highwire lock wireform that's the only place I've ever seen it get stuck on CV.

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#1089 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Coyote:
Yeah, something else is going on. (I only say this because I worked with Cameron in beta-testing, and he did a lot of code updates and tweaks to get the ramp kickout working right. This means that I played so many games with the glass off, trying to 'break' his code and find bugs.) What's going on in yours, though.. really, really hard to say. I never had the rollers in my game - I never had issue with the stock switch-ends. (I *ALSO* never had to install the service bulletin fixes; though I know other beta-testers HAD installed it.)

Yup!

I guess that begs the question "what ROM is he running in the game?"

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1

#1098 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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I would advise you just skip the RM protectors all together, don't think they are necessary and they mess up gameplay.

0

1

#1109 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from jardine:
Anyone help why my Acrobats shot rolls off the wire form, down the LHS of the plastics (against the wood) and then back onto the wire form to my left flipper?

That ramp is a tough one to get dialed-in just right so that weaker shots will still make it and fast ones will not fly off at that first bend at the top. Try bending the wireform a bit to give it a little bank to the turn then adjust the clear plastic airball protector over that turn down REALLY close to the wireform until it is almost touching a ball sitting on there.

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#1122 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from pintechev:
CV looks amazing with incandescent. Please consider keeping it original.

Ditto, unless you go full GI / LED OCD boards you have to turn off GI dimming and even then the quick on/off transitions of LEDs has never looked right to me. You can change the GI over to LED without the OCD board as long as you use something like the the Comet one SMDs or Retro style if you really want to save power / heat from the #47s. It's all personal preference of course but I like these late WPC5 games with incandescent bulbs for home use.

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#1127 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Hi Guys
Thank you for all the kind reply’s. I am grateful. Getting the game dialed in the the help of a local tech. Great tech! Thank you ed!
Wondering if anyone has replaced their dmd and maybe if there is a video out there showing the process. I already ordered the color dmd. Just think it will look great but respect those that just feel the orange screen is fine. Have a bunch of misc stuff orders including some nos scrolls which should really help the game. Ordered new cabinet decals as well. New legs, leds. Can’t wait to have it all together. Thanks all

The ColorDMD install is very easy, shouldn't need a video to guide you and it definitely makes the game more enjoyable IMO.

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#1133 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from RGAires:
Hello, recently ive adquire a cirqus and the previous owner swap the neon to leds 12v.
When i boot the game, the "neon" is ON and all seams ok, when i start the game the "neon" does nothing, i supose this is not normal.
Questions:
- Do i have to wait some amount of time, to warm up the "neon" (setting - 'Neon ON Time') ?
- Incorrect plug of the led on the 12v connect (Swaping the wires) can damage the chip that controls this?
- Things to check?
Thanks in advance.

Does it go on and off in the neon tests? If so then it should work properly in game.

Also - put some awesome neon glow back in there!!

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#1138 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from RGAires:
Well to resume it, ive left the machine plugged for about 5 minuts and.... after that time the "neon" started blinking in attrack mode, thing that never have done before, but during the game nothing happens, never reach the neon multiball, i belive the game still have the original ROM.

It should light when you start highwire multiball, flash when you hit certain jackpots and also when you charge the boom balloon I believe. It's not used too much but it is used pretty frequently.

You can get a good idea of how and when it should light from this PAPA video:

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#1148 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Those inner blades look great. Something to consider as I rehab my CV. Question: wondering if the screw stop the ringmaster I have is incorrect. Was thinking this should be a recessed (countersunk) screw. Does anyone know for sure? The attached photo is what I presently have. Would then think that the “WOW” sticker would cover the screw??
[quoted image]

It should definitely be a countersunk screw, I don't believe the decal covers the screw typically so that you can access the screw without damaging the WOW decal should you need to remove the top. I usually put a small piece of mylar over the top of the screw to make sure the ball doesn't get stuck on the screw too but that's usually not necessary.

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#1150 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Thank you Bobukat!! Was thinking that what I had was probably not right. The new decal that I received though for the top does not have any hole in it though?? Your idea sounds. Good. If I remove that screw does just the top come off or do tjeee things fall apart at the same time?

No, just the top will come off, have no fear. I just cut a very small x in the decal with an exacto knife but you could probably just punch a hole through it too.

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#1153 3 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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Quoted from RGAires:
Maybe someone can help on this one, on switch tests they look all work correct and working, what triggers the extra ball?

Can you be more specific, do you mean which switch(es) have to register to award the extra ball when lit or how do you light the extra ball?

If it's the first question first make sure Extra Balls are turned on in the settings and the game isn't set for tournament play.

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#1155 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Thanks again Bob!! As it turns out there is a pre-cut circle in the middle. Questions again please. I have ordered a set of cabinet decals from PPS in NV. These are supposed to be Next Gen decals but I have also read that these "Next gen" decals are not that great. Other issue is that I suspect that PPS is out of stock as my order from several days ago is still "pending". There is a company in the UK (pinballdecals.eu) that seems to have these decals for immediate shipment. Any thoughts??
Thank you
George...

For some reason PPS always shows orders as pending, I have some I received years ago that still show that status, yours have probably already shipped. If you don't receive them in a week or so contact the PPS folks. I can't really comment on the quality of the decals because I've personally never installed them but I believe that's what just about everyone uses and I think they'll be fine as long as you do all the necessary preparation work.

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#1166 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Boof-Ed:
Ive got a question too.
My neon seems to stop working during a game for a length of time then star up again. Usually happens if I’m having a longer game.
I’ve checked connections and all seem to be ok.
If I turn the game off when it’s not working and then back on it is working again in attract mode.
Is this a usual thing?

Next time it stops working go into test mode and run the neon test which I believe is in the solenoid / flasher tests. Could be a bad driver chip or a the transformer is starting to fail.

0

#1168 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from jasonbar:
Tech question: an intermittent problem (my favorite!!!)
I have the Pinbits Auto Eddy Board.
Usually, it works fine.
Sometimes, it will stop registering Ringmaster hits.
This behavior continues in later balls & in later games. It doesn't "fix itself."
What will *always* fix it is: enter switch test, run a ball back & forth over it a few times, then it starts registering fine (sometimes for maybe half an hour, sometimes for weeks).
What sometimes fixes it, but usually(?) for a shorter period of time: power cycle the game.
At first, I thought it was losing connection, so I checked the wires & connectors, & I reflowed the solder on the pin headers.
Then, because I later found that the switch test or game power cycle revives it, I'm pretty confident that it's not a flaky connection.
Any ideas?
Thank you,
-Jason

Make sure you have Auto Eddy boards set to no (counter-intuitive I know) in the settings.

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#1170 3 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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Quoted from jasonbar:
Thank you.
I just played a couple of games. Ringmaster not registering.
I checked the Auto Eddy Boards setting. It is indeed set to "NO".
Just for fun, I switched it to "YES". The Ringmaster hits didn't register, and when I went into test mode, the Test Report popped up & said that Top Eddy wasn't working. So, having that set incorrectly leads to an immediate & obvious & 100% error, not the mostly-working condition that I have.
I set it back to "NO". No hits registered. I entered switch test & passed the ball over it a few times.
Revived, working for now.
I'm wondering if I should be looking at the switch module or the Eddy PCB...?
Thanks,
-Jason

Since it does register when you slowly roll a ball over it I don't believe you have a switch matrix issue but rather a less-sensitive than needed eddy board. Make sure the connections to it are all clean and tight and that it is mounted as close to the bottom of the playfield as possible. If that doesn't fix it I would probably try replacing it.

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1

#1174 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from jardine:
Can anyone help source or even have a spare set or combination of this rubber/metal/screw please.
[quoted image]

Their website always says sold out but some have reported being able to buy one if you contact them. Personally I've never had that luck with them but maybe you'll hit the lottery. https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_4&products_id=193

I see you're in Australia so you're also out of luck as they apparently aren't shipping internationally right now.

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#1192 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Hi Guys
Just wrapping up my CV and have a couple stickers for targets that I’m not sure where they go. Can you assist please? See pic below. Thank you
[quoted image]

Top one is skill shot, middle goes on the red stand-up in front of the pop bumper on the right and the bottom goes on the Simba target on the left behind the menagerie ball.

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#1214 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Hi Fellas
Not sure I have an issue or not. Hoping for some insight.
I am using the 2.0 home rom. When I lock a ball ( have replaced all switches in wire form with roller types and all are good) the machine registers as having locked a ball but then the solenoid engages and releases the ball. ???? Maybe a setting in the new rom??? Thanks guys

There is a setting to disable physical locks, could be that.

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#1253 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Just wondering how many of the members have had to replace their trough optos. I think mine are flaky. They register fine in switch test but there have been a number of instances where the ball will drain and the machine goes through the solenoid firing trying to find the ball. It will usually only take once for this routine to happen and probably create enough motion that at that point the ball will be found and the round will be over and the judges scores will come up. Don’t know if there dirty or possibly weak but after twenty some years anything is possible. For forty bucks it’s worth putting new optos in. Anyone else have this kind of issue?

Make sure the balls aren't magnetized first, I think this may have been covered with you in a previous post and if so I apologize but if not that can occur pretty quickly in this game.

0

#1256 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Balls are definitely magnetized for sure. That could certainly be a component and maybe the main?? Again for the cost of new trough boards what the heck?? I have a degaussing coil. Maybe I could use that on them??

Very likely that's your problem then.

I don't think the coil will work, I'd just replace them but you can bake them which supposedly works.

0

#1259 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Quick question. Understand that magnetized balls poses issues but in this game which has several electromagnets, seems like one would be going through balls at a relatively quick pace?? If I have played ten games on this machine since acquiring it a couple months ago that would be a lot. Just asking.
Thanks guys

As long as you don't buy the super-shiny balls that have more chrome in them they will last a long time and typically longer than you should keep them in the game for other reasons before they become magnetized. I have other games with heavy magnet use (Houdini and WOZ) and the same goes for them, the balls need to be changed out to prevent playfield wear before they will stick together.

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#1266 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Ok guys. Your probably sick of me about now. Please know I am hreateful for all your kind help.
I am still having issues with balls getting lost. I did use the degauss coil and it seemed to help the balls be less sticky. I have asked fir a recommendation from bobukcat for what he would suggest and I’ll stick those in. Guess the huger the chrome the worse the issues with magnetization. Learning every day.
I am about to clean the optos on the VUK from the trough. I have some suspicions there and want to eliminate that as a possible issue. By the way, no switch errors are present. Haven’t received the new trough sensors yet but will install upon receipt to eliminate any issues there.
I seem to have the ringmaster hideout coming on erratically alon with the ring master saying “hey what’s going on”. Can anyone shed some light here. Thanks so much guys. This has been on my wish list fir a while and would like to get it all dialed in. Not far away just need some more direction. I am thankful for yours!

Make sure the switch from the RM trough/bucket to the VUK in the subway is working properly. Make sure the RM is all the way up, game in switch test then drop a ball in the bottom of the RM and ensure it registers. If that doesn't work properly the game will eventually think that balls going in the hole in the back loop are coming from the Ringmaster. I responded to your PM, any basic new pinballs from the normal parts suppliers will work fine.

0

#1277 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from PhillyArcade:
2 Questions for the group.
How bright is the neon tube? It seems mine isn't too bright. Transformer go bad on them or the tube gas out? Or maybe it's just not that bright?
Also the acrobats shot is impossible to get. Ball just bounces back there and it never goes up the ramp. Is there anyway to adjust that wireform where it will go up that wireform better? Any tips on that?
Thanks!

The Acrobat shot is a tough one for sure, is yours not making it up the wireform / ramp at all or is it flying off at the top? The bottom of the wireform bolts down through the PF and you can achieve some level of adjustment there but it's also possible to not get it properly inserted all the way down into the playfield when re-installing it. Getting the guides / airball protectors at the top adjusted just right is tricky and takes a lot of trial and error. Also make sure the right diverter is closing completely and that it makes for a smooth transition from the ball guide on the right loop.

0

#1281 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Hi Fellas,
Looking for the "expert" on the ring master. Mine is acting squirrelly!! While not every game this occurs, most games it does. The ring master will suffer a switch issue mid game, usually the middle switch number 43 I believe. As soon as the game ends, I get the credit dot. Open the coin door to confirm it is what I think it is and then exit out of diagnostics. Ring master goes through self test, everything is fine until we repeat this again. I understand that there are three switches in the mech. My plan is to replace all three switches along with the motor/gear assembly and see if that does not help the situation. Heck, replacing the trough optos stopped the VUK from firing at game startup. I hope I am on a roll. Any thoughts Guys??
Thank you
George

In my experience this happens when the middle is found properly in one direction but not the other, however the RM tests should really find that because it does run it both directions. But it might be worth it to go into the manual test process and run it up and down in both directions and see if you're seeing any odd switch behavior and go from there.

0

#1287 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Guys
Another frickin question. Was watching my Son play today and noticed that the VUK had to try and launch the ball a few times for it to get out of the chute. This is not an always type of situation but it happens often enough. Ball is there and VUK fires as it should but the ball does not come up enough to get out so it will fire again to try and eject it. Any ideas guys? This seems like it is definitely a VUK issue nothing further. Does the solenoid need to be rebuilt? All ideas most appreciated. Thanks fellas
George

Take the VUK assembly apart and clean it up real nice, make sure the coil sleeve doesn't need to be replaced, etc. Then test it with the coil all the way down the adjustment grooves in the bracket - this allows for maximum travel of the plunger and therefore max force applied to the ball. If it's still too weak we'll have to figure that out, but if everything is moving smoothly after cleaning and reassembly I'd be shocked if this is the case. The problem then may be that it's too strong and you'll want to slide the coil up the adjustments a little to make it a little weaker. Just have to find the sweet spot that makes it as consistent as possible.

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#1309 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Fellas
Just wondering if anyone else out there occasionally has an issue with the “voltage” rollovers just upstream of the flippers. Nothing electrical or logic wise, however, unless the ball has a certain velocity the rollovers sometimes can actually stop the ball from proceeding to the flippers. At this point th glass has to come off to give the ball a nudge.
Any known fix for this?
Thank you

Increase the pitch of the game / playfield by raising the back leg levelers.

0

#1312 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
I’ll need to look at the switch as the game is already at a higher angle as I have rollers under the back legs to make servicing it easier. Have to pull the game out and twist a bit to remove glass hence the rollers. Thanks guys

Wow, I've never seen anything like that happen at all, not even close. Maybe post a picture of what your rollovers look like in normal state and with a ball stuck on one?

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#1316 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Hello Fellas
Question please...I
Am occasionally seeing the dmd say “ringmasters hide out” and the audio saying”what’s going on “. Just wondering how this is being triggered. I think I may have a switch that is out of adjustment. Am hopeful that the members may be able to weigh in and offer some insight.
Thank you as always
George

This will happen if switch 46, which is in the subway from the drop hole in the rear of the rear loop and leads down to the popper, is not working Because the game sees the ball end up in the popper but doesn't see that switch close it "thinks" it came from under the ringmaster. After enough games you should get a credit dot and service warning for this.

0

#1318 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GPS:
Hello all,
Ok. Thank you bob and Rosen! I will look at switch 46 and see if it is working on switch test mode. I have yet to have an error with that switch but will track that down. Kind of weird when it happens as sometimes out of nowhere the audio feed will be “what’s going on”. I will report back
Thank you fellas

I had the exact same behavior recently and it was one of those subway (for some reason they call them trough switches in the manual which I find to just be confusing), pretty sure it was 46 the wire had broken off of.

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#1335 3 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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Quoted from PhillyArcade:
Pulled my Ringmaster for some cleaning added a led strip in his head that lights up nice and got one of those stickers for the bottom of the Ringmaster says jackpot. Cleaned up my subways as well I wanted to mount some leds in the ringmaster area to light it up but ran out of ideas. Anyone do that? If so what's the best way to do it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Does yours not have the flashers inside the Ringmaster or do you mean you want to light up the scoop underneath the Ringmaster?

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#1339 3 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

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Quoted from JagDaniels:
You have to lift out the playfield, remove the plasticcover over the dmd and pull out the panel that the dmd is attached to
I having issues with the damn highwire ramp. The balls lock up perfect after i added rollover switches, but when the multiballs starts, just the first ball releases and the other two balls are kinda frozen or magnetized together. Any ideas ?
Btw. For my broken neon i used a LED mod from pedretti Mods. I doesnt use a transformator...and i like the purple look. There is a video on youtube.

Yes, removing the DMD is pretty easy and straight-forward if you pull the PF all the way out to the furthest service position.

Make sure the balls aren't magnetized and sticking together, that's the most common cause of that issue.

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#1383 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from jardine:
For an adjustment check your manual but if I remember right, there should be a screw that can be lowered or raised that will adjust the height for you. Located on the metal bracket that is the housing of the head.
As for the protector...awesome product! Recommended above anything else!

The position of the Ringmaster (Down, Up and Top) is actually controlled but the switches that trigger the game to stop it at those positions. In my considerable experience trying to get one of the other similar mods to work is that it is essentially impossible to get it to stop perfectly even every time due to the bi-directional drive and how the switches are activated. I have no evidence but I have to believe this is why they settled on the production version that uses the tensile strength of the thin metal edge on the top to flex and provides a wide margin of error in those adjustments, levelling of the RM to the PF, etc.

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#1395 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from drummermike:
Fill them in.

Agreed, fill them in.

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#1417 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from RobbyIRL5:
I’m going to look for the blue ball. But now I see what’s happening. It’s hitting the clear raised disk that is above the red ball and bouncing back. Is that disk too big or non-standard? Attached screenshots from the slow-mo video (sorry for awful glare), show the progression from hitting the clear disk an bouncing back.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Swap the plastic disc with a actual steel bell, it's very easy to do, looks better, delivers a real bell ring and the ball bounces off of it more predictably.

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#1423 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from whthrs166:
No, it is most likely one of the lock switches not making or out of synchronicity with the others. The CV lock system is really sensitive. The switches have to make all the same way. Because of this a lot of people use the roller arm switches for the lock. I did not. My lock works perfect so If it Aint Broke Don't Fix It. Sometimes a lock switch will change state when ball is in the lock, this results in the game releasing the ball prematurely. Use the the switch edge test and check your lock switches. It maybe best to just put a whole set of new ones in there and be done.

I don't have access to my game but I think there is a setting to disable physical ball locks and it may only be in the Home ROM. This was added to prevent erroneous multiballs in tournament play which can happen from either the juggler or the high wire locks if not adjusted well.

0

#1502 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from RobbyIRL5:
UPDATE - I believe I'm making progress. The diode in question visibly was 65 (ramp made), and I wasn't able to test the diode inline. So I desoldered, and it tested fine. Resoldered the switch, and I think it solved some of the issue. As we sit, the only offending switch is 64 (ramp magnet). I can hit any combo of other switches (as long as this one, 64, isn't included) and everything tests.

So I started de-soldering and testing diodes, all suspect diodes tested correctly. Found some crappy soldering on some of the switches, cleaned up. I'm out of ideas. Essentially what I could reproduce pretty regularly is that every switch works fine alone (and combined with other switches), except any column 6 at the same time as 64 (Ramp Magnet) would like both, as well as the same row in column 2 (for whatever I'm combining with 64). I just put everything back together, and it's back to random combinations of most of column 6. So it's really not even reproducing consistently, but it is consistently not working and i'm chasing changing conditions. The real risk I have outside of test mode (that resets the game) is the combination of the locks (lower, middle, and upper) with 64. I've got my tech buddy coming Tuesday, but will likely not sleep until I figure this out!

For weird shit like this I just replace any diode I unsolder to test because they're cheap, I have a ton of them and why not? The next thing I would do is ensure the problem is either the board or it's on the playfield, though I think this is almost certainly on the playfield. If you have some jumpers and diodes you can remove all the row and column connectors and use the jumpers with diodes to simulate the same switch closures to isolate the problem to the board or the PF.

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#1509 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from RobbyIRL5:
Found it. The same damn switch (64) that we knew was the issue ended up being wired backwards (white and diode on wrong outside lead), somebody here called it. It sure didn't look like it because they had the diode wired backwards with it.
I'm learning from people smarter than me on this, but its quite interesting that one switch can wreak havoc on a switch matrix!

Good job and thank you for reporting back on what the issue was. The switch matrix serve(s)(d) the industry very well for a long time but I love that the games using PROC no longer rely on the switch matrix, so much easier to T-shoot and not possible for one improperly wired one to wreck the hole game.

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1

#1523 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from RobbyIRL5:
Go back a few posts I just dealt with this for weeks. My solution was 3 of the switches were wired backwards (including diodes). But start with switch 64, ramp magnet. In the switch edges test, hit the switch and see if it activates more than one switch. If not, hold it down along with the lock switches and see if more than two switches go off (this was my issue, when two switches were triggered, it activated 3-4 switches).

I thought it was just deja vu when I read their post, what are the odds?

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#1525 3 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Johncare07:
Here’s a video of me doing what you guys suggested. Any thoughts?

Check for one or more switch / diode wired backwards from what it should be. See the top of the switch matrix below for how they should be which is the Green/othercolor wire (column) to the N/O terminal of the switch and the White/Othercolor (row) to the N/C terminal / non-banded (anode) side of the diode.

pasted_image (resized).png

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#1574 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Santis:
So I emailed him about this problem. His answer was buy another ??? The other decals I installed same day are neat like the first day but this are garbage. Then you have to pay again for another which I’m sure is same(bad) quality. BEWARE IF YOU BUYING SOMETHING THERE.

I had a poor experience with him years ago, bought a bunch of PDI glass (which is $$$$) and most of it had imperfections that were very noticeable. His first reaction was to say he's never had that happen and he basically didn't believe me. Then it was discovered by other buyers picking up in person that most of the batch he received from his supplier (in Germany) had the same issues but he wanted ME to pay to ship the bad product back to him. Shipping glass is EXPENSIVE so naturally I pushed back on it. We eventually worked something out but I'll probably never buy another thing from PDII.

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#1615 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from jbovenzi:
Thanks team.
I'm just surprised that two are empty on all these machines. Maybe Bally/Williams had extra stickers from something else and just used up what they had.
If I ever had to replace that spinner then I guess I could put any sticker there.

I would have bet some small amount of money I saw a backbox decal set for sale at some point, somewhere that included more decals so that each spot would have one on it but nothing I can find now at all so I was probably just drunk or imagined the whole thing.

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#1623 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Kare9:
I have head of people using Velcro but yea screws are more functional.

I used velcro and what I thought was plenty of it, cleaned with alchohol before applying, etc. and one fell off and cracked. Considering how difficult these are to find now I'd recommend screws to prevent any possibility of the same happening.

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#1655 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Pinkitten:
Thanks, it does look fairly complicated in the owners manual to take apart. I wanted to replace the coil base under the ringmaster’s neck due to some corrosion and dents from years of play. I also have a chrome plated version of the metal “bowl” which catches the ball under the ringmaster to install.

It is a bit of a pain, I did the same thing with the mirrored finish bowl and IIRC getting the wires for the magnet and flashers routed and secured properly was a tedious task. I always find getting the ringmaster to fit back properly a major pain too so I put in LED flashers (mild ones, not the crazy super-bright ones) so I won't have to take it apart again to replace them.

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#1662 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from amxfc3s:
Looks like the CPU is upside down

Good eye!

0

#1667 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from ryanwanger:
I recently joined the CV club, with a sample machine. The one infuriating thing about it is that when trying to lift the playfield up, the underside of the ringmaster assembly just barely catches the speaker. You have to lift the playfield from the back to get it up over the speaker, and then it can raise easily.
I'm wondering if perhaps the bracket/assembly for the ringmaster was redesigned in later models so this didn't happen?
Any suggestions for how to deal with this? (The speaker is original BTW). Is there perhaps a more low profile replacement speaker that exists?

Have you tried adjusting the bolt that sticks out the bottom for the lowest height adjustment of the RM? I think that's what actually hits and IIRC from completely dissembling and adjusting switches, several times it's not really necessary.

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#1717 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Pinkitten:
I was able to get the metal hole protector overseas from Pinball Center from a Canadian friend. I was disappointed in it. It didn’t fit well on my machine, it was much too tight and would not lay flat. When the Ringmaster went down, it created a lip which launched the ball over his head. I couldn’t get it to work, and it became misshapen in the process. I removed it and cut mylar to place around the edge of the hole. I tried the colored plastic ones too, where you replace the metal “hat” with a plastic one that drops down even with the protector, and I prefer the original metal version that lays flat over the edge of the hole. That was just my experience.

Agreed, the original metal lip is designed to allow for the variances of the Ringmaster position because it flexes, the other solutions aren't tolerant of the variances.

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#1731 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from mmuglia:
Tilt GameBlades came today. They did a beautiful job with the artwork for this game. Color DMD arrives Saturday.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look great but after installing mirror blades in MM I've really been thinking how nice they would look in CV, decisions, decisions!

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#1736 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from mmuglia:
It is a tight cabinet in that regard. I cut a piece of poster board in half and then bent both pieces so they will hang on the side rail. I slide those in between the cabinet and playfield before I raise the playfield. Works great!

I use the protectors that Pinball Life sells, they slide in and out easily.

0

#1793 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from colocole:
Anyone know what this bracket is? It's not on my machine. On mine, someone put a screw thru the display plastic cover in the bottom right corner to prevent it being caught when PF is being put back in...maybe this is bracket is related as a solution?
[quoted image]

It's a little hard to see in your picture but that looks like part of the service bulletin kit they released in part to prevent the playfield from catching the edge of the display cover plastic.

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1

#1812 2 years ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from PinballGalore:
Can somehow please
Post a photo of the blue Snubber rubber and how it’s placed with the metal part? I have them both with a tiny screw that fits but isn’t long enough. I’m not sure exactly how this all needs to fit. Thanks!

There a quite a few of them in the image gallery for this topic but beware because some of them are incorrect, use the reversed part from MB, etc. This one appears to be correct EXCEPT it does not have the same screw that WMS did. https://imgproxy.pinside.com/lymJWdmHV-f08Brha2hWR5nCiiN1NAHpmZJx6xNrOz8/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzYvYzAvMjcvNmMwMjdlNTY1OTliY2VhYzdhMDNiYTcxZjNlNWI0YTFhNDc2ZDA2Mi5qcGc

0

#1851 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from colocole:
Anyone have a link to a fix for the first locked ball moving back up the wireform so machine doesn't think there's a ball there? Replace the lock switches, bend the switch metal actuator, etc? Any assistance greatly appreciated!

Replacing the switch arms with the roller-tipped ones works great.

0

#1852 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from NorwegianRockCat:
2. I also have "No Rev. Motion" on the ringmaster motor. When I run the ringmaster test, There is a dot in one circle when I press the minus button, but there are dots in both circles when I press the plus button. An uneducated guess might be that a diode has died? Causing one direction to always win? But I'd be glad to hear other opinions before I start investigating more.
All this happened after the right slingshot coil got stuck on. I repaired that and I wouldn't put it past me that I missed something when the power driver board was re-atteched, but I'm also willing to entertain the thought that 20+ year old electronics may decide that now is the time to retire on their own (or just me being clumsy).
Any suggestions from the club would be appreciated.

There is a bi-directional motor driver board that controls this, I suspect the issue lies there, possibly just a bad transistor: https://www.pinballlife.com/bi-directional-motor-drive-board-for-ballywilliams-machines-a-15680a-14768.html

IIRC that's controlled / driven by an LM339 chip that are pretty notorious for failing too.

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#1860 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:
Just testing the waters here… Would anyone be interested in trading their CV (depending on condition) for my Godzilla Premium (low plays, mint, with shaker).
Just curious for now.
Thanks!
Richard

I would be but you are a LONG way from me! Good Luck.

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#1862 1 year ago

BOB

bobukcat

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Quoted from SuperMas77:
Do any CV owners on here have any experience with this neon replacement mod from Pedretti Mods? Any insights on the installation and performance of this whether good, bad, or ugly are appreciated.

That is an LED light strip in a sleeve, definitely not neon or argon and look pretty weak in comparison IMO. I think it's worth it to replace the transformer, gas tube or both if necessary rather than taking the cheap way out with LEDs, it's just not the same.

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#1864 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from SuperMas77:
Yeah, I have some troubleshooting to do with mine to determine if it is the transformer, tube, both, loose connection....who knows??? I haven't figured it out yet. All I know is that it doesn't light up and I was curious if anyone here had any real experience with this mod. I don't mind spending the money to do it right, but it the LED mod looks and functions the same then why go thru the hassle of neon tubes and transformers.

Except it doesn't really look the same, notice how the video never shows it fully on? Trouble-shooting is fairly easy, do you get 12VDC to the input of the transformer when it should be on? If not it's likely the LM339. Or if you prefer use a 12VDC supply and hook it up to the tranformer input, if it doesn't light it's most likely the transformer which is cheap(ish) to replace. Once you replace it if it still doesn't light the tube is bad. Planetary has five different colors available but if you don't like any of those colors you could probably find a local sign company who could make a replacement one, don't know what they would charge for that. Of course it's your game so do what you want but I just don't think LEDs come close to the same "electric sex" look that a neon or argon tube does.

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#1878 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from insight75:
Question. Is it normal to have flicker from the Neon when it dims?

Yes, how bad you see it will depend on your eyes, some people are more sensitive to this than others but the voltage is not linearly controlled so there is a slight flicker.

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1

#1891 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from PinballGalore:
Can the led tube replacement for the neon do the same, as far as turning on and off during attract mode/gameplay? I have one installed (ordered from pps by mistake thinking it was the real deal - my fault) and it just stays constantly . Is there something faulty or is this how they're supposed to be. Will probably order a neon in the next couple of days but wondering if I have a problem or not.

There are adjustments for Neon On and Neon Off time, try adjusting / disabling those. I've personally never messed with them so I'm not 100% sure of how they affect the neon in attract mode.

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#1922 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from insight75:
Check out page 1-61 in the manual. Height adjustment screw under the ringmaster assembly. I just adjusted mine. Easy fix.

May also need to adjust the "home" or lowered position leave switch to make it lower more, this can be a PITA to get just right.

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#1928 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from ViperTim:
I’ve already received pictures of the boards.
They all look good, battery relocation etc all in place.
The white panel for the back glass has a crack that’s glued but it’s no big deal - playfield and cabinet is the most important for me.
I’ve never played one but I’ve been in love for a long time and it’s time to pull the trigger.
With this next to the ToM and in the future a MM would be the holy trinity for me and my father.
Things got heated with many speculators and down payment is paid.
Picking it up next weekend as this weekend is packed.

The most common areas of concern on the PF are the WOW inserts which can have decal wear, clear ghosting around them, etc. the roll-overs can all crack around the edges and you can get divots / wear from where the ball launches onto the PF and where it falls off the RM.

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#1949 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:
Do all games start with the Boom Bumper in the down position? I assume so.
It seems though the Boom bumper doesn’t always go down when it is supposed to.
Any tips?
Thanks?
Richard
[quoted image]

It relies on gravity to drop so most likely it's just kinda gummed up and needs some TLC.

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#1951 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from ViperTim:
Working on this game.
Got the color files for the Pin2DMD installed. This game really does look great with it.
Got more LEDs installed under inserts - soon all are done.
But boy, this game is awfully designed underneath.
Never ever had a game with this make bulb sockets completely hidden behind subways and mechanics (ringmaster…).
It’s a bit of a PITA to work on..
Also I have issues with balls getting stuck in the subways… but I cannot find any obvious issues.
Seems like they get stuck on the bulb sockets for the five purple inserts below the ringmaster.
Also got it stuck in the far back (right loop).
[quoted image]

Balls can get stuck on wires but there are also a couple transistions from subway to the vuk and ringmaster to subway they can get hung up on when things aren't installed just right so double check those too.

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1

#1967 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from dts:
I think it may be a transistor but will take a closer look tomorrow. I did get the solenoid to fire briefly.

The windings on that coil break very easily, I'd check to make sure it's not broken but maybe barely touching.

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#2025 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from safaex:
Hello everyone! So I'm new to the club and I have one small but very confusing problem. During the Cannonball Run mini game in the backbox you're supposed to hit the flippers to fire the ball into the luck switch but the ball doesn't fire. The game registers that I push the flippers and the cannon works fine in every other aspect of the game, except in this mini game. So it's not the coil itself or a switch problem because from what I can see there is only one switch in the backbox, no switch to register that the ball is in place on the coil. Can anyone give me a direction?

If the game has dual flipper optos (I think it does but can't trust my memory) does the upper flipper opto register on either or both sides?

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#2036 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:
My cannon in the back glass does not fire when it is supposed to. The connections seem fine. Ideas? Fuse?
Thanks!
Richard

Did you measure resistance of the coil at the lugs? For some reason that one is prone to breaking the thin wire that attaches to the lugs.

0

#2041 1 year ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:
Ok! Sorry, where is that!?
Thanks!

Hmm. Ok. I’ll try that. What should it read? The lugs are where the coil connects to the 2 wires?

Hmm, no it doesn’t fire at all no.

If it reads more than about 25 ohms it's open and there is probably a broken wire from the lug into the coil. The lugs are where the wires are soldered to the coil.

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#2060 9 months ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Pinkitten:
Hi CV people. Does anyone know which fuse is assigned to the neon transformer? My bulb went out, and I tried a backup with no luck. Before I try my new transformer, I want to check for a simple blown fuse.
Thanks!

The LM339 that drives it can fail too.

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1

#2063 9 months ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Pinkitten:
And now it’s working. So who knows. A loose connection maybe? I did swap the bulbs. But the new one didn’t come on right away. Time will tell.
[quoted image]

Love the color of that tube!

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#2073 8 months ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from PPS:
Insert Body (White Tubs) Now Available 03-9696.1 Cut to Original Blueprint holes, etc.
NOTE: We were debating whether to offer these with two large speaker holes as well but have not checked into whether this is desired or able to be done - if anyone can comment on this please let us know.
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-03-9696
Team PPS
[quoted image]

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#2094 6 months ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Wharhed:
Isn’t this the same part?
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/04-10894-388.html

The metal piece that holds the BNOD is unobtainium and doesn't appear to be on the one from PSP.

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#2097 6 months ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from GRB1959:
Do you mean this metal piece?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/161098
Gord

Yep, I didn't know anyone was reproducing it.

0

#2102 5 months ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from Dewback9:
Is this happening during gameplay where it occasionally fires? Mine was doing that but I think it was due to the balls becoming magnetized and sticking together/to the trough. After replacing the balls, it seems to have gone away...for now.

I've been fighting a similar "sticky trough" issue in my Goldeneye off & on for the past year. I've narrowed it down to having the wrong alloy balls in it for too long that has now caused the entire trough to become magnetized so even after a ball change the issue persists. I'm honestly surprised that someone hasn't come up with a better solution than just the PETG shims because that's only for the bottom but not the sides of the trough. I've seen a stainless Bally trough that's available for CV which I might pick up for piece of mind but nothing for the Sega games.

The troughs can get divets in them which will prevent the balls from rolling forward, the shims help with that problem.

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#2220 33 days ago

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bobukcat

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Quoted from R17isTooFast:
Joined the club! Totally pleased with my new purchase but I've found one small problem I hope you guys can advise me on. When I turn the volume down to a level that's acceptable in a small room, the sound intermittently drops out on the main speakers and is only coming from the sub. It may do this for 60 seconds or so and then go back to normal for the rest of the session or it may do it every few minutes. This doesn't happen at higher volume levels. Suggestions?

Have you re-seated / cleaned up the speaker header connectors on the board in the backbox? Oxidated connections could cause this.

&quot;Welcome to the Cirqus!&quot; - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans

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10 years ago

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Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans