The manual has a section in the back that shows what wires (by color combination) are attached to each pin of each connector for all the boards in the backbox. Look up the Power Driver board in that section and look for connectors in the 11x - 12x range IIRC.

The ground strap in your hand typically is pulled up through to the head and attached under a wing nut on a stud on bottom lower left side.

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I've always considered the neon a really great "gimmick" in the game. One of my favorite things about it's art/design.

Man, shipping a neon tube with the quality of today's shipping services... UGH, what a nightmare.

I've got blue and the Orange (Tangerine?) sounds interesting.

Has anyone ever put together a page that has all the different neon colors released on the game side by side? Would be cool to see but I'd rather not duplicate all the effort if it's out there.

You've got the rollover installed upside down/backwards/ 180 deg out. Move the wires to the "top".

Looks awesome! Did you buy the Pin2DMD assembled or do that on your own?

Out of curiosity, How have folks been using that part, are they drilling a 2nd hole in the CV ball guide (on the "bottom") and using the MB part?

????? Internet Pinball Database

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4059

No they're not worth that much, not to me anyway, but they can ask anything they want for them. They know what they're worth and never seem really interested in actually selling them, just looking for a big payday. See this all the time in classic car circles and all I do is make a note of who they are and avoid them. YMMV

From the image you posted they look pretty darn good.

Another vote for scrolls...

Do you mean - every time you power up, regardless of how long the game has been off, you always get a complaint of bad switches? Or are you saying whenever a switch shows up as bad they always test good when you check them?

Testing them with your finger isn't an accurate way to test the switches because typically you move the switch farther than the ball would in play. You should start by testing with a ball and adjust if necessary. Switches tend to go bad slowly, as they age they become intermittent, and sometimes you spend less time overall by just replacing switches once the game starts complaining about them a few times.

I've basically stopped buying repro art/specialty parts at all unless it's from specific vendors. I think that leaves me with 1 vendor.

LOL, don't hold your breath. Spend some time in the Mirco threads if you'd like to see your hopes dashed.