(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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#406 2 years ago

Hello everyone, first post in what looks to be a good forum.

So, I just purchased a CV. I haven't received it yet, but I should be here late next week. This is my first pin, and I couldnMt be more excited!

That said, I've been trying to catch up on information I will need to keep my machine in perfect working condition.

The first question I have is about the playfield protectors. I've read that clear coating can actually damage this surface because of the type of glue used in the insets.

I really like the concept of playfield protectors (plastic laser cut ones), but I don't completely understand how these work with the pop up componets on the play surface. It seems to me like this would create an uneven surface, and from the look of it, they don't sell parts which cover the pop ups like the ringmaster and boom balloon.

Does anyone have any idea how this works? Also, I would love any feedback on playfield protection in general.

#409 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Full playfield protectors have all the holes cut out for where everything sticks up through the playfield. It would be a royal pain to install one on a CV. They are best suited to older games that have a lot of sunken inserts because the protector will make it play like flat again. I think there is a Cliffy type protector made for the Ringmaster hole, but I don't have one on mine. Just clean/wax the playfield and enjoy playing it. Put new balls in if they don't look new already.

Awesome! I've read that a lot of owners of even the new Sterns are putting protectors on the play field. Obviously being new to the world of pinball ownership, I want nothing more than to keep this absolutely perfect for as long as possible. I will certainly take a look at the play surface before jumping directly into a protector. Thank you for the feedback!

4 weeks later
#414 2 years ago

Has anyone experienced or noticed that their neon ramp is kind of "foggy?" Is this a normal scenario because of the heat of the neon, or is mine messed up? The rest of my plastics look really clean.

#417 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I have the exact same issue. I've thought of taking it all apart to clean it but don't want to drill out the rivets. Mine is green, BTW.

Yeah, I looked at it...I have no idea how to remove/replace those rivets. Why the hell did they use those?? I think some bolts would have been just fine :/.

#420 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Or zip ties done right looks good too...
You don't need a playfield protector in a home environment, if you plan to put it on location to earn money, then maybe consider it, otherwise it's just a product to cause some folks to jump. Keep the pf waxed and you'll be golden. Look around for Vid1900's how to threads and learn pinball till your eyes bleed. Also, there's a good book on eBay I wish I had bought years ago..."pinball machine care and maintenance" lots of good reference for the new guy. If you can fix stuff on CV, you can fix stuff on almost anything, it's crammed with just about every piece of tech in pinball.
I think the haze in the neon plastic is typical, the only way I cleared mine up only a little bit was flame polishing it; not a task to learn on this piece though...
Oh also, I think it's sort of a right of passage with CV to learn to lower the playfield down just right with out breaking the dmd plastic, slow and steady
Have fun with your new game!

I like the playfield protector concept. It is like the glass cover on my phone surface. I don't need it, but I use it because the second that I see a scratch I'll be annoyed. So far, the playfield protector doesn't seem to impact the game play at all, but I only tested it for a few hours without it.

I really appreciate the recommendation for how to wax it. I would like to do that eventually. Obviously I don't need to wax it with the protector, but I did a nice cleaning and it could certainly afford to be waxed. It's in awesome shape, but it has those tiny scratch marks like a car gets in the clear coat. I know you can buff those into a perfectly smooth surface with some good wax.

Flame polishing sounds both awesome and terrifying. If it annoys me, I'll probably just buy another ramp. There seem to be plentiful replacement parts for this machine.

You are completely correct about the playfield! I think I've got it down, but I open it like I'm carrying a newborn hemophiliac baby through a cacti forest. It certainly doesn't help that the playfield on this is heavy! It must weigh around 60lbs with everything on it, and it's such a strange angle...I'm constantly in fear.

I'm having a ton of fun with my game! I've replaced all of the burnt out lights, rubbers, rebuilt the flippers, etc. It's really starting to come together. I'll toss a picture up since I'm proud of the work I've done .

IMG_2149 (resized).jpg

#421 2 years ago

I had a couple of quick questions about the game that other owners might be able to answer:

1) The plastic that serves as the ringmaster's collar...does that occasionally flop around when hit by a powerful enough ball? It has absolutely nothing to hold down the back of it, and actually seems like kind of a crappy design since the only nuts are in the very front.

2) What does the "empty balls test" do? The manual says that it empties the balls into the shooter lane, however mine just cycles the balls forever.

Thanks

#424 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It will eject any balls that are locked or in the VUK too, the idea is that you grab them before they go back into the trough.

I had assumed they would stop moving . It is my first pin :/.

#426 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

How? If the shooter lane gets filled up, where would the rest of the balls in the trough kick out to?

I guess I pictured the balls somehow popping up, but not shooting out of the lane. In hindsight this doesn't make sense.

#428 2 years ago
Quoted from Elevatorman:

I'm in the club.
I'll add pics tonight.

Nice! Congratulations.

#429 2 years ago

On the "roller switch mod" for the highwire ramp, does that solve the issue with all release not happening fast enough to register a single ball?

I've noticed that my game will sometimes have to u lock one single ball from the highwire ramp, yet the timing on the piston is too short for one ball to roll past it. The piston will pop back into position, then trap the ball against the hirewire. This causes it to release again, but then often times will trigger the game to release all of the balls, and hit an early multi-ball situation.

Has anyone else experienced this?

#432 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i had highwire problems when i first got my CV. i put rollers in, but they didn't really fix the issue. the switches worked better, but then i got balls stuck like you're having, i think. the big fix was moving the switch arm to the second nub on the switch assemblies. this loosens the tension on the switch to let balls roll easier over them. absolutely no problem since.

I've actually done that mod (attached image). It doesn't seem to speed up the ball roll when that piston drops. I think there is also something in the service bulletin about adding a washer under the middle of that ramp. Perhaps that slight increase in pitch allows for one ball to roll out before closing?

My switches are registering the balls correctly, this issue just occurs in that situation where three balls are on the wire, but based on the game state, only one ball technically locked. If the game needs another ball, it will release the piston for about two seconds, apparently aiming to drop a single ball. On mine, the ball starts to roll slowly, but then the piston comes back up and jams the ball into the wire. Sensing that the ball has not dropped, the game drops the piston again, in which case the first ball drops...but it still recognizes that the previously second ball (now first ball) is on the first switch. This then forces the game into a multiball mode where all of the balls drop.

All I can think is that you either have to slow the timing of the piston down slightly, or increase the balls ability to pick up momentum when the piston is lowered.

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#434 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

are your balls magnetized, sticking to each other?

I just pulled them out, and tested them on a flat surface. They don't show any signs of being magnetized.

#444 2 years ago

I've attempted to make an actual guide for the Cirqus Voltaire rubber. I'm going to create a machine on Titan Pinball's DB that has all of these rings in it...but I wanted to double check with the community first (just to make sure I got everything).
I know this isn't perfect...but I'm super annoyed that there isn't a good list/drawing anywhere .
let me know what you think.

Bally_1997_Cirqus_Voltaire_Rubber-01 (resized).png

Added over 3 years ago: I realized there are actually 4x 1-1/2'' rings. I missed one because they are stacked on the right side of the playfield. Pinside won't let me update the post because the time has passed, but if anyone wants the updated picture, just PM me. I also put the kit over here (https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/575).

3 weeks later
#459 2 years ago

I just updated from 1.3 to the 2.0h ROM and there is no difference in the cannon fire for my machine.

The cannon side-show (man pulling the rope) requires that you actually hit the button to fire the cannon. It will only fire when the ball is correctly loaded, so the solenoid won't just pop over and over.

As for the "auto fires", weaverj is correct in my opinion:
- Boom Balloon pop up
- Outlanes if lit
- Spin targets
- Marvels completed

It is also possible to disable the cannon in the settings. I'm not sure if you can disable just some of the cannon shots.

#461 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

In the side show mode where it says "Fire that Cannon", the normal behavior is it will fire when you hit the button, but only every few seconds. There is no switch for the ball down by the solenoid so the game has no way of knowing the position of the ball. You get points every time the solenoid fires, whether the ball is there or not. You get extra points if it goes to the top and trips the switch in the single lane.

Oh, that's interesting to know. It always lines up with the ball being set, so I figured it was just detecting the ball.

3 weeks later
#479 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Might want to check to see if the Acrobats shot can be made properly, you can always adjust the ramp and guides later but it can be tricky to get it right, otherwise the ball flies off the wireform on hard shot or won't make it all the way on marginal shots.

Is there a way to adjust this? I posted on this guy's thread and never heard any answer - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-falling-off-acrobat-ramp-on-cv

#480 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

I just bought one of these from pinbits! I emailed them directly trying to see if they had one laying around, and they surprisingly emailed me back and said yes! I will most likely get it this week, and I'll gladly send it to you if that means that more people can have it! Like I said, it's sight unseen right now, but I should know more very soon.

#483 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That's crazy, I've e-mailed them at least a dozen times about that part and they have never responded once! Please PM me once you receive it.

Yeah, random luck I guess! I'll PM you right away.

1 week later
#486 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Heres a pic of the gi almost fixed and some inserts. I have to place a order with cointaker to correct the rest of the colorbomb.

I'm a huge fan of this game with only a color splash. I've seen some cool ones with vibrant colors, but overall I'm with you on ripping that stuff out.

#491 2 years ago

Does anyone know where you could get a replacement high wire? A part of mine has come unsoldered, and I would love to get it replaced. I can find a metal worker to fix it, but then it will need re-chromed.

#496 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

You've heard wrong. The metal thing is complete BS, does not hold up at all.
The plastic protector set is one of the greatest, most functional and cleanest ("original looking") mods ever. It completely corrects the heavily flawed original design. Also the magnet "fling" is stronger due to the plastic "lid" and it also fits the Ringmasters top much nicer than the original metal disc.
It's made for original production PFs. If you cleared the inside of the hole or are using a repro-PF it will likely not fit correctly. If it would be lose (unlikely, mine fits 110%) it wouldn't damage anything, it's made from a rather soft, flexible plastic. And it's ultra thin on the top, you can hardly feel the rim on the PF at all. I think that's why it's so incredibly expensive to make.

Where do you get that plastic one?? I've been looking for that for months!

#498 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Not made any more. Haven't been for a long while, unfortunately. I was lucky, I found a pinsider selling one and picked it up. I bought one for both of the sample games I used to own, and when I get CV back into my collection, I'll put this one on it.

How does it attach to the play-field? I don't understand why someone couldn't make these again, they seem so much more logical than the metal one. It even seems like something which could be 3d printed with the correct materials.

#500 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Not sure if a 3D printer is up to the job. It's a very sturdy but kind of flexible soft plastic. And it's extremely thin at the edges. It's not rocket science, but it is a special sort of plastic.
It sits in the hole like a car rim...if you get what i mean?
Maybe this picture helps.

It uses a different top plate? What is that one made out of? I don't understand why I can't just buy the damn thing from someone! Who originally made them?

#507 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Orbit Pinball: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/are-orbit-pinball-still-around
In the thread it says they are made from nylon. Makes lots of sense. PDI probably just sold all the remaining Orbit stock, not sure if they ever produced them by themselves. But you can ask Joey, maybe he knows more?
The top plate is made from standard hard plastic. It is much smaller than the original metal plate as is needs to sink into the ring, no edges on the PF any more. It's a complete re-design of that area, not just a simple add-on-cover-up mod. In the lowered position the ball rolls smoothly over it, no ball distraction at all.
It's hard to take a representative picture of it without taking the glass off...

Wow, this thing solves both the issue of the hole getting chewed up, and the issue where the top plate gets bent from ball strikes? I NEED THIS NOW! Who is Joey? How much do you want for your extra one?

#515 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

In the mail are: rubbers, blackout mod, Ringmaster hole protector/cover, coin box, standup targets, pop bumper skirts, green shooter rod spring, clear flipper buttons (which I'll backlight), 3x roller switch for locks, leg protectors.

What is the blackout mod?

Also, my game had red neon and a yellow menagerie ball. I pine away for a blue neon, or bluish purple.

If you ever need pictures of something, let me know. My game has mostly factory stuff on it, minus a couple of mods.

#520 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i believe the blackout mod is when a game has a mode where the gi goes out, like neon multiball on CV, the backbox gi is modded to go out at the same time. did i get that right?

Oh thanks!

#522 2 years ago

I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.

Has anyone seen this?

#525 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

What is "multi-strike" multiball?

The multiple you get from hitting the neon ramp a certain number of times.

1 week later
#544 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The screw is just slightly curved on top. I'll have to see if I can find a flat one with the correct thread gauge (probably not going to be easy).

I think pinbits sells them. https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_4&products_id=201&zenid=2ccb5d388ec98e9ef7c7791482a839ca

1 week later
#555 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Howdy-
I'm rebuilding my Boom! balloon assembly, & there are 2 things that don't seem right.
1: The manual shows 1X item 57, 23-6626 Grommet, between the bumper body & cap ("Boom" plastic). My game had no grommets, just 1 small shim (Velcro?) between the bumper body & cap at the hole closer to the point of the teardrop (the screw closer to the flippers).
Are there supposed to be 2 of these grommets? For shock absorption?
2: For the little lamp PCB assembly, item 16, is there anything holding it in place, apart from its 2 wires? It was rather cockeyed when I opened up the pop bumper, but I have it sitting a bit better now. Just seeing if it should have some further retention.
Thanks,
-Jason

I didn't have the rubber grommet in mine, so I used a small folded piece of paper.
Also, coyote is right, it just lays in there stupidly.

#556 2 years ago
Quoted from Bodacious:

Hi all,
Do you think CGC will do a remake of CV?

I'd consider a brand new one if I could. I love the gameplay.

2 weeks later
#560 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I have a gorgeous restored CV for sale in market if anyone is looking. new everything with cleared playfield.

Do you have some pictures of it? It's not like I need two of them, but I geek out on pictures of these machines

3 weeks later
#577 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

That's a good idea - I'll try a different switch. Thanks.

I replaced my switch and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

#582 2 years ago

Want to trade?

1 week later
#599 2 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

I'm going to keep it in there for now. What color is yours? I didn't realize they came with so many different colors. I realize this may be subjective, but what seems to look best on the game? What about the multi-color? Is that too much?
Anyway, I'm just having so much fun with this game. It seems like a fairly straight forward rule set, but what a mechanical marvel and great in the looks department as well!

Mine is red. I really like the blue and purple ones. I think coyote has the right idea, I’ve Just had crap luck finding a neon shop in town.

#600 2 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I’ve had this problem, but it only seems to happen on multiplayer games. I always figured the computer had gotten confused. With two physical ball lock systems (juggler and highwire) CV does a good job of keeping track of things. Also, sometimes I think it has dropped both balls off the highwire wireform if I just made my fifth ramp shot with one ball already on the highwire and started strike an arc multiball.
On a similar note, I notice in the pinball arcade software version of Cirqus Voltaire, at the beginning of highwire multiball all the balls roll off the wireform together in a bunch. On my CV it drops each one separately each time the post going back up shortly before releasing the next ball. Do all non-virtual CVs drop the balls separately or is there a menu setting I have overlooked which adjusts this ?

No matter how many times I play the game, I cannot predict what it will do with the high wire ramp. My switches and roll are perfect. It always tracks the correct number of balls on the ramp, yet occasionally it decides to release all three when it needs to release just one. I’ve seen it release a single ball, so I know it works, but it never seems to do this when the game is calling for only a single ball. If you add in multiple players, all bets are off!

I would love to understand the logic around this, and discover if there is a way to test the single ball release event.

2 weeks later
#603 2 years ago

Happy Thanksgiving to the CV owners . I’m thankful for owning a CV, and having a random machine screw show up on my play field yesterday. Look at this picture. I swear I have torn this machine down at least three times and I’ve Never seen a philips head machine screw like this.

Screw fairy got me!

996C6E35-5512-4E9D-86C2-71484E9C1EC8 (resized).jpeg

#606 2 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I think there’s a screw like this on the plastic around the ringmaster - I think it’s on the left side.
I was able to figure out why the highwire dropped the balls one at a time at the beginning of HW multiball. The 2nd switch was holding the 2nd and 3rd balls briefly. So I bent the switch a bit to let the ball roll freely so the the switch wasn’t registering. After numerous iterations I got it working right.

Oh yeah! I completely forgot about the screws on the back of the ringmaster! Thanks!! Hopefully I didn’t lose the nut too.

Glad you got your high wire working. That is such a pain, but once it is good it’s awesome.

#608 2 years ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Do we have any talented CV owners with 3D printers?
Is it feasible to recreate the Orbit Pinball ringmaster protector in nylon on a printer?

I would certainly be in for that!

3 weeks later
#611 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright any of you guys experience any issues with the F103 fuse that runs solenoids 1-8. It’s a 4amp fuse but I am tempted to increase to a 5amp. This fuse controls the magnet at the top of the ramp and just like my lord of rings I up the fuse and now don’t have any issues with it blowing. Any thoughts?

In my experience, the only reason that fuses blow is because something is touching something else. Even if it takes a while, something is touching...I always find it. I don't know if I would personally put 5amps through something rated for 4amps. The wire can "probably" handle it, but you never know. Some of that wire is really small, and the extra amp will build up a lot of heat.

#613 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah sometimes those magnets like on my Lord of the rings blow those fuses pretty easy.
I’ve read online about changing those fuses to regular size slow blow fuses instead of those little GA fuses and that works too.

My magnets on CV were blowing GI fuses all of the time. Finally I found a micro sized hole in a wire shield that was touching a screw (when the machine would shake). Sure enough, I fixed that wire and it never happened again.

My friend has a TOM machine that had really similar problems. It took me about two weeks on and off, but I found where some wires had rubbed off their shielding ever so slightly. A tiny bit of electrical tape later, zero issues.

Those are my experiences with magnets. It certainly seems the amp draw of the mags can flesh out little problems a lot more than other components. I wish there was some easy way to detect the exact location of wire shorts :/.

1 week later
#615 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

My swap/restore is done! New playfield cleared by Ron Kruzman, new plastics, posts, rubber, regrained all the metal, new rails by taylorva, new pops, basically I replaced nearly everything on top, cleaned anything I couldn’t replace (ramps were new last year). Came out great!
My favorite game, well worth the effort, did a ton of pre-planning and got the swap done in less than a week. I love vacations from work when I can just work all day. Probably 50 hours start to finish.
With the new playfield, the game is fast and much, much harder than it was before. It’s a brutal beauty that’s as much fun to play as it is to look at.
Marc

Looks fantastic!

#616 2 years ago

Does anyone have a blue or purple neon they would be willing to sell me? I would even accept a bluish purple neon .

#621 2 years ago

Yeah, the neon color is the one thing I don't like on my game :/. Mine is the factory red, and clear when turned off. For whatever reason, I just don't care for the look of it. If I had a chance to swap it, I would jump on it. I even have another neon ramp which is empty and waiting so that I could replace the whole thing.

#624 2 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Contact Galactimus-He may have some info on these

Sign me up if it happens

#632 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

There’s not a lot to it:
1. Remove the Neon ramp from the game
2. Drill out and remove the rivets that hold the ramp together
The neon tube has wires that protrude on both sides and are just hand twisted together.

I second @mschonbrun's instruction, and agree with coyote only do this while the game is running at full steam and you're dripping wet .

#636 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Thanks For that.
That's alot for a beginner. I'm spending my time sorting damage so to drill out stuff will be a first haha
Out of curiosity are you aware of a video tutorial or decent visual guides on this job?

If you happen to have a blue or purple neon, I'll do everything for you . Granted, my fix will result in a red neon .

1 week later
#647 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Stripped the top side, cleaned a few times over, waxed 4 times, tumble polishing or hand-polishing all steel. That took almost 5 months on the calendar (not much time to work on this...kids...).
Finally ready for re-assembly, with all new flipper mechs, new coils, new sleeves, new rubbers, new bumper parts, etc! Good thing I took oodles of photos--my memory isn't nearly good enough to remember how to put it all back together! =O
-Jason

Let me know if you forget something …last time I took mine apart, I documented every screw and washer, also the order of removal.

#650 1 year ago
Quoted from JReedie:

Hi everyone some beautiful machines in this club. Today was a really exciting day for me as I put down the money for my Cirqus Voltaire. This is an absolute grail pin for me and I cant think of any other machine I'd rather own more than CV. Cant wait to get it in my flat! Its been on location in a small coffee shop in London so needs quite a bit of work doing but still a great machine.

Congrats! It is such a great game. I just had a party and it dominated in terms of interest.

#657 1 year ago
Quoted from JReedie:

Yes it does. Apparantly the transformer and ballast (i think thats right? I dont know much about neon) have just recently been replaced. The Neon is a very nice blue. Still waiting for the machine to be delivered im super excited.

Want to trade neon for a very nice red?

2 months later
#675 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Has anyone else had a difficult time keeping leds in the slings? Mine pop out all the time, any solutions??

I left those ones incandescent just because I liked the look a little more. I would be interested to find out what you do.

3 weeks later
#696 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Picture of the complete assembly in the lowered position. Ringmaster lowers flush with playfield minimizing air balls and adds a clean look to both the playfield and worn edge of ringmaster hole. Let us know if there are any questions.
The Mod Couple

The product looks awesome, however I also don’t care for the title on the ring. Do you plan on making different colors as well?

3 weeks later
#701 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

http://revolutionarypinball.com
http://revolutionarypinball.com/proddetail.php?prod=cvring_prot
A long time in the making, and after considerable effort by Frank, the original CV Ringmaster hole protector is back on the market available again!

I tried to buy one, but the site told me there is no shipping available for my destination. Is it not possible to ship it to Arizona?

#703 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Paging galactimus
I had a similar issue with USPS shipment to my address as well. He will get it corrected for you.

He emailed me. I’m all good. Now, if I could just find a purple neon, my machine would be perfect .

2 months later
#720 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Just found this.... LOL this is my game (Buyer) I have seen HEP games (TOM, TAF, MM ect...) go for 15k. It was a deal for what he was asking and I am very pleased with what I got!

Yeah, I say just play and enjoy it. As long as you aren’t starving a family or pets because of this purchase, I think it is a good deal .

#722 1 year ago

I don’t think I have seen one with the yellow neon…it looks cool.

#735 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yup. Exactly.
Usually it's only needed once, as a 'trace pattern' (a 'copy' of the design, laid out on paper twice, for profiles) is made, so that it can be reproduced.
My last trace got lost down in Georgia, and then my last neon tube (to make a trace *from*) shattered on it's way out here to WV.

I would pay the premium to get my hands on a nice purple.

#739 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I believe at its core, they're 12v led strips, also if you're keen enough, you can actually cut them much much shorter than every 1 ft... I don't need to upgrade mine, but they sure got me thinking

I think this is actually pretty interesting. I would imagine you could make a little money selling these as mod for #CV. I wonder how “real” it looks.

#742 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

It looks pretty good, even up close, With the RGB, you can see a very slight break between the LEDs, with the solid colors, there is no break between the LEDs whatsoever. It also makes my eyes feel weird looking at it the way that real neon makes my eyes feel .

I guess one of us is going to have to take some time to play with this
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, that looks impressive. I can't even imagine how crazy it would be to have the neon doing light shows during phases of the game! As for the 120v coyote mentioned...couldn't you feed that from the extra power outlet inside of the cabinet? You would obviously need some kind of on/off mechanism tied to the game's actual power, but I wouldn't think this would be overly difficult.

#745 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I’m against it too, I was kind of hesitant suggesting it, but who knows... leds are all the rave, blah blah blah
I love the application of this led neon for a lot of things

The original neon is amazing. You absolutely cannot beat it. That said, I can’t help but be interested in what this new tech could do. Just like LEDs in place of incandescent bulbs, over time the look and design has come so far that I almost always prefer LED. I figure if people like us demand new applications, then the tech continues to advance.

I would imagine the LED OCD guy could leverage his same controller to drive one of these LED neons. I would be interested in testing it just to replicate the purple neon since I have never been able to buy a real neon tube.

2 months later
#753 1 year ago

Is there a way to test/fix the single ball out of the high wire? Oftentimes I end up with 2 balls when it is clearly trying to release just one.

I am unaware of any test which would help me dial that in.

4 months later
#812 10 months ago

Can anyone explain why I would be getting a high wire ramp kickout after two balls? It doesn't even attempt to wait for that third. Also I can't get the piston to come back up and just release one ball :/. I had this a while ago but I moved the machine and I've not been able to get it back.

#815 10 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You have a mis-registering switch. In switch test mode, roll a ball down the ramp, one at a time, and watch the lock switches.

The switches seem to be registering correctly. Basically you get ball 1 locked, then ball 2...next thing you know it says "watch high wire ramp for kickout" and it releases both balls. This is not the start of a multiball, it is an error. If I hit another ball up there it will say ball 3 and then correctly start the multiball.

It would appear that it is registering two balls, then deciding to kickout a single which actually kicks out both.

#819 10 months ago

OK, good tips. Let me verify in test mode.

#830 10 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

What have you guys done with your scrolls to attache them? I want to put them on but don't want to screw them into the backbox...and not sure about double sided tape on new decals?
Any ideas please.

I put them in my closet because I think they look horrible :/.

#832 10 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

I don't mind them personally. Just want to see what they look like on, you may be right..haha

I don’t know why I don’t like them. I think they are just too different from every other pin. I don’t like many toppers either. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion though .

#840 10 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

Yeah, wondered about the double sided tape. The residue would be easy enough to remove one would think if they ever needed to come off. It's really the only option that I can think of.
Cheers.

You could try that 3M Velcro stuff. I bet that would work and remove pretty easily.

4 weeks later
#862 9 months ago

Does anyone have an extra high wire, wire ramp they would be interested in selling? Mine has a welding issue and I'd like a backup before I attempt to fix it.

2 weeks later
#864 8 months ago
Quoted from Rozeks:

Joined the club today. Have a little bit of work to do (small adjustments, rubber replacement, etc), but this is one of our dream pins. Will no doubt have some questions for the group as we explore this thing
[quoted image]

Oh!! Blue Neon! I’ll trade you my red . It is literally the only thing I don’t like about my game.

2 weeks later
#876 8 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

My next thing to do is change all the rubbers on this beast. I have heard good things about Titan so I am going to try them. Want to stick to white as I think the original colours looks best. Not one for going purple, blue, translucent...etc.
Can anyone confirm if they have bought the kits from the Titan site and any sizing issues? I've found this which gives a pretty good explanation of why they added or changed some sizes so was going to go this: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/575

That is my kit, so I know it works . I added rubbers for all of the posts which stick up on the upper plastics. I guess they are decorative but I felt like they looked better with the color contrast.

For my own kit, I used the purple post sleeves which I felt looked nice and not super noticeable.

I feel like I discovered a flaw in my documentation last time. It is the right ring sizes, just the incorrect placement. I can’t remember if I fixed it. If you see anything weird, let me know. Also I have a high quality version of that image if you want it. Titan down samples it pretty bad.

#878 8 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

Thank you for the reply! It's why I choose this kit...seemed to be the best when it came to explaining why you did what you did!
I'll order through our local distro and make sure to rate it so it might help further purchases.

Cool, let me know if you find anything wrong and I will update it.

1 month later
#893 6 months ago

Is anyone interested in a new neon tube? I am about to get a purple one made because I just never liked my red that much. The local guy quoted me like $140, I bet if a few other people wanted one we could knock that down a bit.

I figured I would at least throw it out there in case someone was looking for a change .

#896 6 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Anybody have a spare 04-10253-1? The bracket that holds the blue rubber block to the right of the ringmaster.
They seem to be unavailable anywhere.
My machine has the mirror image part, 04-10253. This is dorky, as ringmaster orbit shots that enter on the left bounce off it on their way out the right. Doy.
[quoted image]
I have a temporary "solution" in the meantime *blush*.
[quoted image]
Thanks,
-Jason

Contact these people (https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_4&products_id=193&zenid=7c14e4cfff12208a8f50a82509840d08). They were able to make one for me. In fact, if they make more I'll but another one because they are fragile.

#899 6 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Oooh, please tell me a bit more!
If you've got the P/N or manual details handy, or can just at least point to where it goes on the machine, then I can do some digging to find the deets.

Thanks for the tip--In my recent search, Pinbits was one of the many places I'd found that was OoS/Discontinued on this P/N. I contacted Pinbits & got an instant response telling me that Marco has them. Nope, Marco has the mirror image part. I then pointed this out in a follow-up to Pinbits. No reply yet.
Thanks,
-Jason

Let me dig and see if I can find the email. The part they made is nice. Hopefully they can make some more.

#906 6 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

In under the wire! Just under 2 years!

The clear rubbers look way better thank I would have expected. Thanks for sharing.

3 weeks later
#908 5 months ago

I finally managed to get a custom purple neon, and installed it in my extra neon ramp. I am pretty pleased with the results.

BEB5010C-6766-40E8-8131-D2230FF18032 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#936 4 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I hadn't seen that one before, looks like it's thinner than the Mod Couple one I have and may not cause so many rejects. Do you get any ball hop from it when the RM is down?

I also have this one and I find that there is zero ball hop. It did take me a while to get it dialed in though. Also I had to use a plastic razor blade to ensure the hole protector was laying the correct direction.

1 week later
#944 4 months ago

Recently my ringmaster seems to be throwing the ball consistently in the same direction whereas it used to be fairly random. Is there something which could have changed?

#958 4 months ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

My Ring Master needs a very gentle shake right before he releases the ball to launch it! If you shake it too hard he will just dump it off down the play field every time. When you shake the game gently it will move the ball (Magnetized) around the screw that is in the center. That will get it to launch when he releases it.

Mine launches the ball fine, it just started to always send it back right. I think that is weird since the mechanism seems to be something fairly random.

#962 4 months ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Well the most expensive game of operation I’ve ever played is over. Used my dremmel to cut a pretty deep slot and ended up having to use an impact gun to get the screw out. Waiting for the replacement from pinbits, but the difficult part is over. I ended up cutting even a little deeper than the photo shows.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! I had to rebuild mine because someone cut the wires in the spring. The nice thing is that we can still source the parts.

2 months later
#992 57 days ago

Wow! I think the factory one is nice.

1 month later
#1038 23 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The field service kit that was issued included instructions for adding a post with a rubber ring there but I have zero desire to drill a new hole into my PF so I just deal with it. It doesn't happen excessively, the game is pretty quick to raise the RM if it gets stuck and initiates a ball search and if a ball gets stuck there during a MB hitting the RM usually dislodges it, therefore I just live with it.

Verify that the game is at 6.5 degrees or more and level side to side. I had that issue until I got my game dialed in correctly.

#1040 21 days ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

This game must have been hell to vend when it was out. Out of all my pins I own and previous ones I've owned over the years, I get more people saying "Circus Voltaire is not working again!" Balls stuck, air balls, broken rubbers, and the list goes on! But I'll never sell it I think my buddy found the ultimate CV sweater though!
[quoted image]

Yeah, from the second I first bought it I knew it would never be on location anywhere. It is a beautiful mess .

#1043 21 days ago

Yeah, I have mine dialed in really well, but it took me a while…and god forbid you buy a new house and move it.

#1046 19 days ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

Are you referring to the ringmaster? If so, did you bend the pring to get it aligned with the playfield hole?

I did that a long time ago and got it well aligned. The problem I always seem to have after moving it is the high wire ramp. If it isn’t perfect, then it cannot release a single ball without the others coming out as well. I usually mess with it forever after moving to try and get it back to perfect.

#1049 15 days ago
Quoted from mamawaldee:

Had our CV since 2006. Purchased non-working from a retailer for $3200. All it needed was a shooter rod. Overpaid at the time because I didn't know any better, but I guess I got lucky considering the prices for them now. At least it was in good shape overall.
A while ago I bought a bunch of stuff to spruce her up a bit, LEDs, mirror blades, about a grand worth of mods in total. Then we moved to another house so it sat folded up for about four years. I just now started installing the Cointaker Premiums that have been sitting in the cabinet for all this time. I'm about 3/4 done with the playfield. Never having put in LEDs before, I'm a little shocked at how much of the underside has to be disassembled to get to all of them, especially around the ringmaster. Also discovered that about 10% of the LEDs are defective. I got them so long ago there is no warranty. Luckily for the hard-to-get locations the LEDs are functional.
I'm cleaning the inserts as I go. They are in good shape, don't seem to be faded, but I'm pretty disappointed with the resulting brightness so far. I'm probably (definately) spoiled by the MBrLE that sits next to it, that thing is so bright it lights up the whole basement. I love the illumination on that game, CGC really did it good; but it makes every other game in the collection look like crap
I was hoping to get CV up to that level of luminance but it ain't happening with this kit.
So I already know I'll be changing the LEDs again. Seems like what I have is maybe just a tad brighter than the incandescent were. I want my CV to be visible from space. Any suggestions?

I ended up buying a bunch of Comet Pinball 1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 BULB - Clear - Warm White bulbs and I think mine pops pretty well next to my Total Nuclear Annihilation.

C9B3D92C-56CB-4B44-99EC-CB27B74C0020 (resized).jpeg
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