(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

10 years ago


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  • 2,236 posts
  • 274 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Coyote
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#1924 1 year ago

Hello.
I am ready to join the Cirqus and I have a CV on the hook for $8600 (keep in mind that prices in Sweden are generally lower than in the States) and I’m wondering what are the usual pitfalls for a CV?
I’m guessing that playfield wear shouldn’t be a no problem as it’s generally a game that weren’t played a lot when routed.
This particular game is not drilled so maybe (just maybe) it has never been routed.
Red neon seems to be working judging from the pictures.
Looks good around the ringmaster.
Looks clean around the lockdown bar, around the flipper buttons, underneath the playfield and all the boards as well.

Also it has the “scrolls” on the back box - are those original or aftermarket only?

#1927 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

The scrolls came with the machine. Any pics you can share? Sounds like a good clean machine. As long as everything works I wouldn't be too concerned. Maybe check the boards and look for any acid damage. Check the back panel on the back glass and look for breaks. Common issue. Mine has been repaired. This is one of my favorite machines in a pretty large collection. Seriously considering giving it the HEP treatment at some point.

I’ve already received pictures of the boards.
They all look good, battery relocation etc all in place.
The white panel for the back glass has a crack that’s glued but it’s no big deal - playfield and cabinet is the most important for me.
I’ve never played one but I’ve been in love for a long time and it’s time to pull the trigger.
With this next to the ToM and in the future a MM would be the holy trinity for me and my father.

Things got heated with many speculators and down payment is paid.
Picking it up next weekend as this weekend is packed.

#1931 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The most common areas of concern on the PF are the WOW inserts which can have decal wear, clear ghosting around them, etc. the roll-overs can all crack around the edges and you can get divots / wear from where the ball launches onto the PF and where it falls off the RM.

Thank you for your answer.
I realize I did not get any pictures with the Rinngmaster down so I cannot see the WOW inserts. I can spot the left W on one picture and that looks good.
I can see the roll overs and they look good - at least in the pictures.

Me and the seller is in an agreement and I’ve paid just a minor down payment and I am ready to walk away if the machine does not check out. It is after all a huge sum of money.
Seller is a pinball enthusiast himself so I don’t doubt him.

#1932 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Yeah all of them will eventually break. Mine had a piece of plexiglass behind it with 3 bolts to double up and strengthen that area.

Yeah it feels like a shitty type of plastic on my Junkyard.
Feels really brittle.

1 week later
#1933 1 year ago

After an 11 hours round trip me and my father joined the Cirqus.

The good:
Apparently it was a clear coated playfield in great condition (probably has a few touch ups under the clear but only one can I can see, looks great!). Not even the seller knew this
New side art.
Good overall condition.

The bad:
Translate got cigarette burns (sigh…).
A little bit dirty inside.
A few broken plastics.
Extra hole in bottom of the cabinet for the subwoofer from Flipper Fidelity.

The sound improvement from the Flipper Fidelity speakers is welcome.
But come on… Don’t make another hole in the cabinet…

It will get the Pin2DMD from my Junk Yard today.
And a good cleaning.
New rubbers is also needed.
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#1942 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

The ringmaster assembly often hits the sub speaker when sliding out the playfield (depending on what sub is in there) so some after market kits recommend moving the sub speaker to the left a bit so the playfield slides out easier. Some cut a hole some don’t. I personally wouldn’t cut a new hole as the sound would not be affect much at all, if at all.
I don’t have my sub screwed down (took the nuts off) so I just lift up the speaker and move it to the left every time I lift the playfield. Works as well.
Either way sounds like you have a great sub!
Richard

Yeah I’ve read this. A little bummed they decided to make another hole for the sub but it is what it is.
The underside of the cabinet is not what I’m playing, it’s obviously the playfield.

Quoted from PinballGalore:

Congrats. Pps has the translite in stock if you want a new one. It was announced sometime earlier this year on this thread

[quoted image]

That was a little steep but it’s a good alternative.
I’m going to try my hands on sanding down the bad parts and polish it all up. Maybe make it 90% good and if so I’m happy.

Quoted from petebest:

My CV was a legitimate home use only when I purchased it. Very low plays. Despite that, in fact, maybe because of that, I had to replace almost all of the microswitch rollovers. Seems like they just kind of go bad if they don’t get used. I picked up my cactus Canyon at the same time, and had the exact same issue.

I dig into this game yesterday and oh boy there’s a lot of electrical faults.
It’s mechanical shape or great but the electricals is bad. Broken solder points all around.
But it’s an easy fix.
Had to resolder the pins on the circuit board for the “WOW” lights and that board was a pain to remove and even more to install!
But Ive come to realize that this game has indeed been routed. It’s got all new side art and is pretty dirty here and there.
It’s definitely not bad, it’s still good. And the most important part, the playfield, is both in excellent condition and been clear coated.

And it’s one hell of a mix-match between LED and incandescent bulbs…
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#1947 1 year ago

Joined the circus on the second day…
Fastest I’ve ever beat a game and it was the game I’ve been dreaming of.
Hopefully I can find more joy and time in cleaning up the game
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#1950 1 year ago

Working on this game.
Got the color files for the Pin2DMD installed. This game really does look great with it.
Got more LEDs installed under inserts - soon all are done.
But boy, this game is awfully designed underneath.
Never ever had a game with this make bulb sockets completely hidden behind subways and mechanics (ringmaster…).
It’s a bit of a PITA to work on..

Also I have issues with balls getting stuck in the subways… but I cannot find any obvious issues.
Seems like they get stuck on the bulb sockets for the five purple inserts below the ringmaster.
Also got it stuck in the far back (right loop).

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#1952 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Balls can get stuck on wires but there are also a couple transistions from subway to the vuk and ringmaster to subway they can get hung up on when things aren't installed just right so double check those too.

Oh yes it was the transition from the subway to VUK.
But not because of alignment issues.
A zip tie from a wire loom was sticking up into the transition thus blocking the ball! My fault…

#1961 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

And I’m in! Skeptical on the number of plays, but it looks really new. A few adjustments needed, but the only thing I have to sort out is the backbox game didn’t work when it was in that mode. I’ve wanted one for a long time.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

looks like a fantastic machine.
Great buy! Enjoy it. Play it more than all others previously did.

#1965 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Good question there. Anyone have any ideas? Not sure if anything can be done. Mine has a piece of plexi to double up over the coil but mine is cracked.

Mine is cracked but I’m contemplating a layer of fiberglass over it.
But the damned plastic bulb holders is a pain as is and In afraid that with a thicker tub material it will be even worse.

#1974 1 year ago

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1 week later
#1980 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Hello all. I got this red wire in lose in my pop bumper assembly. Is anyone know where it’s solder or have a picture of the pop bumper assembly ? Tks
[quoted image][quoted image]

I will try to remember to take a picture of that for you on my machine.

I’ve got a question as well.
Is this really how the light socket should look like in the boom balloon? It looks odd and a regular bulb is too high and does not fit… it does not feel right.
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#1982 1 year ago

Interesting… because it looks awful and a regular 555 bulb doesn’t even fit in there…

#1983 1 year ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Hello all. I got this red wire in lose in my pop bumper assembly. Is anyone know where it’s solder or have a picture of the pop bumper assembly ? Tks
[quoted image][quoted image]

I just had mine disassembled, here is a few pictures.
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#1987 1 year ago

My Ringmaster was a complete shitshow when it came to the wiring.
I built a new wiring harness and it’s all good now. Also put on protection on the metal edges so it won’t eat through the wiring.
It did work before but man it looked horrible and grease was everywhere.
A bit better now. Also realized that I’ve mounted the subway for the ringmaster wrong and that’s what been causing my mysteriously stuck balls.
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2 weeks later
#2002 1 year ago

Mine has Flipper Fidelity speakers in it.
It isn’t great as the sound quality in the ROM is crap and the amplifier is crap.
But it’s OK. It’s got quite a lot more bass than my other WMS games and that’s about it.
Not worth the dineros in my opinion. Actually no sound improvements are imo, I think they’re fine from factory.
It’s pretty bad from factory but I just dont care.

The biggest issue in my opinion is the sound quality in the ROM.
No matter what you put after that it’s not going to be good.
Sh*t into an amplifier and all you get is amplified sh*t

#2004 1 year ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Wow that iobium link brings back memories.
That made me also look into improving the sound, instead of a fixed resistor I used a variable resistor so I could adjust every machine different.
It does make a difference. If you do it like I did it's not a permanent change and you can test yourself if you like the improvement and what setting is best for your game.
https://www.flippers.be/pinball_sound_upgrade.html

Maybe I just suck at pinball but I’d be worried that would fly off when smacking my game around
Easy solution though!

1 week later
-1
#2020 1 year ago

Mine has the scrolls and honestly… it looks way better without them.
But I’m glad I have them and of course they’re on.
But man… they are ugly.

8 months later
#2089 6 months ago

Hi all.
I’ve enjoyed my CV for almost a year no, been fixing it a little at a time.
This time I wanted to get the neon fully working.
Before it could sometimes light up fully but most of the times just half.
Took it off and realized someone butchered the wiring and it was all loose. Fixed that with new wires and Molex connectors and… now I have half on full time.

What could be the issue on hand? Power supply or neon tube itself?
IMG_4666 (resized).jpegIMG_4666 (resized).jpeg

1 month later
#2144 5 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

The tub plastic much thinner than the original tub. I plan on applying thin fiberglass cloth to the back of the tub with polycrylic to reinforce it and made a plexiglass plate for the back of the tub for the cannon coil area.

Well that is just bullshit.
The OEM tubs are BS quality and way too thin.
If they made it even thinner I don’t know what to even say.

How dumb can said manufacturer be?

#2146 5 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

It really shows up when you try to put the trim edges on the translight/tub and they just fall off because of the assembly being less thick.

I’d be furious.

#2148 5 months ago

It feels like the pinball aftermarket business is full of exploiters who doesn’t give a single crap about quality. It’s just all money.
“Buy my shit because nobody else makes it”. Like Mirco for example.

#2151 5 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Simple, we just don’t buy. Unfortunately one of us had to be the Guinea pig, maybe a link to this page of the thread sent to the pps guys will get them on track. Certainly a fix can be had somehow

Sure I fully agree with you.
I refuse to even buy games that already has any Mirco shit on it, playfield for example.

But still it’s sad to see such a wonderful community being exploited like this.
Surely it’s all our fault because people still pay good money for the crap.
But it doesn’t take the sadness part away from it.

#2156 4 months ago
Quoted from colocole:

Just bought a stand alone Pinsound shaker for CV, resto should be done by mid Jan, will report back after.
Did buy Mirco Rad Cals and PF, what issues am I looking at on the PF?

They’re all listed in the Mirco hate thread.
But I have to ask, what makes people buy from him? After all that’s out there… I don’t see it why there’s such a “need” for supporting someone like him.

#2160 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Sadly, right now he's the only source for a repro playfield. Not that it makes it any better, mind you. If Buthamburg made a CV playfield, I'd buy at least two.

That’s why I keep my awful BSD playfield until I find a better OEM.
I definitely rather play a clapped out playfield than buy Mirco, hence why my BSD literally looks like shit.

It is sad though. He took monopoly on a niche yet sought after market with crap products.
If only…

2 weeks later
#2174 4 months ago

I have the same issue as above and had wire break.
Fixed that and still only lit halfway.
So I’m guessing I need a new neon as well.
Positive part is that mine has the boring orange neon, I want green or purple. Negative part is that it’s expensive…

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