Barrie, ON
Hi guys. I just have a rules question I can not seem to find the answer to.
How to get "Spot Marvel" to lite.
I have the 2.0H but I keep it more factory so not to award Spot Marvel on the skill shot.
(Topic ID: 81336)
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Cirqus Voltaire
Bally, 1997
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4 years later
Toying with changing up the pop bumper caps on CV. Can’t get the factory ones to light up nicely. Switched to conventional pop bumpers but had to cut the caps in order to get the shooter ramp to sit lower and in it’s proper position.
Also have to sacrifice one single led on the rings when I cut those as well.
15E453EB-2170-42B2-A14D-92A3EAA3B290 (resized).jpeg474B78C8-211D-430E-865D-72C54CED1FB6 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Cheeks:Cleaning up my CV and adding some mods. I found that I have the lit Ringmaster eyes mod, but it says to connect it to the RM flasher. I'd prefer they were constantly lit. Is there an easy way to tap always on 12v, or should I scrap these for some easier 6v solution? If so, what is that? Someone mentioned a 3 LED strip. Do those light up the eyes, or do you see a light bar across the forehead?
I am just in the process of doing the same. I bought the single LED 6.3v for the eyes and will add 2 wires to the harness and connect to the GI string. Eyes lit all the time seems like the way to go.
I think it would be easier to use the led 3 strip and just remove the middle led. Seems like it would sit better inside the head.
Ringmaster rebuild journey. Took the ringmaster out for a cleaning and refitting during the playfield swap over.
The first thing I noticed is the neck spring plates are beat and have been mushroomed over. I believe the only reason for the plate being larger that the ringmaster head is due to the prototype malnourished ringmaster head. The skinny guy would cause potential hangups between chin area and hole. I used the bottom magnet plate as a size template and reduced the ringmaster plate. Now the ball should contact mostly the ringmaster and neck spring only as the plate is smaller than the ringmaster.
There is a before and after picture of size of the plate.
Next thing I noticed is repro ringmaster heads are really stiff and difficult to work with. I took my new ringmaster and enlarged the lower hole. The hole was made that size to clamp the plastic washer and keep the head in place. I just drilled a couple of holes in the spring plate and screwed the ringmaster head right to the plate.
Made a new wiring harness and added a second 2 wire harness for the led eyes.
Want the eyes wired to GI string and not the flasher.
Hopefully this will work, it will be sometime before I am done my swap.
566C282C-2ADC-4FA3-BD9E-B460CF9F60AB (resized).jpeg8D0D26EF-F1C2-4142-A638-ECBE8921F650 (resized).jpeg8F08FB3F-0918-4FC8-895C-94A40BAFAE67 (resized).jpeg8F501D03-3657-4635-8BC5-D877D0E55552 (resized).jpegF826154C-88CA-40C2-8E06-BE537EA301A9 (resized).jpegQuoted from Cheeks:I ended up going this route. I pulled the flasher LEDs and put in a 3-LED strip. I put black electrical tape over the middle LED and the outer 2 are perfectly spaced for the eyes. Ran wiring down to a GI bulb and this looks much better. Thanks for the idea.
I bet that looks nice and bright. Put up a pic of the eyes lit up.
The individual oval style led (think opto shaped led) is a bit on the dull side. I just hot glued in the individual leds to the eye socket.
I measured the led spacing of the strip leds that are gel covered that typically get used for the outhole mod. The spacing is perfect for the eyes. Just cut off the extra 4 leds. I would have tried it, as they are a brighter led, but I only had a green strip laying around.
1 week later
Almost finished my CV pf swap. I didn’t do any high end restoration just a simple, clean, swap, replace broken parts and try to reuse as much as possible.
I think my pf I am using is a factory second, the Join Cirqus is pink instead of white. I bought the pf 15 or more years ago and it just sat in a box under a bed. It was well before all the reproduction pfs were coming out. The pf has clear coat but had zero dimples on top or bottom.
Also bought at NOS backglass and trim and plastic set when I bought the pf. Along with some other small parts. Some of the pieces of the plastic set went into the garbage. The protective film left the glue residue. It was so brutal to remove. Tried lots of products. Rubbing alcohol with flour, goo be gone, even acetone didn’t touch it with any success. Backglass wasn’t too bad not much glue residue at all, was able to get it off.
Made a rotesserie out of a couple of saw horses and some plate bearings. Didn’t really need the rotesserie at all, might have flipped it 3 or 4 times at most.
Altered my Ringmaster. Added some led eyes. Reduced the size of the plate of the neck spring that the head sits on. Now ball only hits the head and doesn’t mushroom the edge of the plate.
To the underside of the pf, added a second light to the Ballyhoo insert. Moved the eddy board to a more open spot of the pf. Swapped the juggle saucer plates from red to white. For the pop bumpers, used a light socket with diode instead of staples.
Top side, not many changes. Did not install bounce back metal behind flippers. I had new bare center and shooter ramps. The center ramp has a middle mount point to a standoff near juggler. Inscreased the length of that standoff by 1/4” so the ramp didn’t have to flex so much when installed.
I also wanted pop bumper rings. I just love them. I could not make them work with the original style caps, so I cut up some standard caps. I think it looks ok.
Two backbox balls, blue and orange. Would like to add a few more if they made other colors. Used a green shooter rod and plate I had laying around, I think it is from WOZ.
Painted the scolls with a peral purple. I hate the red neon I have. The green or purple neon look so much better.
Still waiting on some clear plastics. New switches with rollers for the highwire locks and still searching for a collar and skill shot plastic.
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Quoted from whthrs166:Magnetized balls only happen when you use the wrong balls. And believe you/me it does happen, and it sucks. Yes I bought the super hi polished balls and it did not take long before they were stuck together like peas in a pod.
It took all of 3 games for my chrome balls to become magnetize and worthless. Need the carbon balls for CV. The magnetism was really noticeable in the ball trough.
That’s the top plate I have. The outer edge is super thin. That’s the part that takes a beating and why you replace them.
The thin piece is flexible, so if the ringmaster sits too low it will flex and not create a ball hangup.
I probably would have bought the top from Mantis as he uses a few more spot welds for the plate.
There is a mod out there (modcouple?) that uses a nylon type top plate. From reading its just tougher to get the height perfectly aligned on the ringmaster.
I have nearly zero pinball friends so my CV doesn’t get played very often. Factory style plate is good enough for me.
1 week later
Quoted from Kare9:Hah, check out the level of mushrooming this game has endured. Who would fix this spring vs buying a new one for $120usd shipped?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That game has seen some play!!!
If you use the prototype head, you do not need to add the post behind the target. The post behind the target is only used if you use the fat head.
Skinny head, the ball passes between the back of target and head. With chubby, it creates a ball hang up, that’s why post is added.
Quoted from whthrs166:It is best to remove the entire unit. You can work on it on the bench much easier. The subway can be a little tricky. Pay attention to how it comes out. It would be best to replace all of the RM switches at one time and be done. Also pay attention to the RM's harness. Wires fraying insulation damage ect... And lastly, any of the WOW bulbs that have an issue (cracked solder joints on the board) or whatever now is the time to take that board out and fix it. Very easy to remove when the RM is out.
Would it be a good idea to use switches with roller activation arms or is it better to use the wire activation arms?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Kare9:When I got my CV it was clear that it needed a cleaning, but the underside was also very dirty. Most of the mechs were covered in a sticky brown film which kinda reminds me of flux residue. This was unacceptable so I removed all the mechs, disassembled and cleaned everything. I’m wondering a couple things as I am done this process.
1. I’m considering cleaning the switches that still work, is there a best/easiest method? Not desoldering and ultrasonic cleaning I assume?
2. Has anyone encountered this brown sticky film before? I don’t notice it on the topside, kinda stumped.
3. There doesn’t seem to be a good schematic or drawing of all the top side assemblies/plastics/hardware. Seeing all the hacks under the play field has me seriously doubting the topside, ideally I would like to restore the top side too, how do I determine what is missing/out of place?
Not sure it matters but I also discovered after buying that this game was re imported and was originally 220v
I never cared that a game was a reimport. I only care about cosmetic condition. For me, that is the most difficult thing to fix. Mechs and electronics are easy.
The brown stuff is not normal. Only a couple spots call for lubrication in the manual. That grease usually goes brown.
Top side there isn’t really that much too it. What are you have doubts or concerns about. Just post pictures and the club will help you out.
1 week later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Hi, was just checking a switch (wire ramp entry), so had to take off the rear right plastic piece. Fixed the issue, went to put the plastic piece back in, and realized the only way it fits is if I push down part of it under the big bolt under the magnet (so the plastic is bent when in position). I have to assume that big magnet bold I have is too long (somebody replaced with the wrong part?). Take a look at the attached picture, green circle (plastic is under pressure when installed).
Also when I took it apart, the bottom nut on the big bolt was unscrewed near the bottom of that bolt. I tightened it up (assuming im supposed to)
Any thoughts?
[quoted image]
That’s an adjustable core. There is a fixed length core which prevents this.
B406FD6C-6FD2-4EE0-8601-DFE53D0C7F2D (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Quoted from rjsoeps:I was wandering if anyone has experience
Swapping a IPB playfield in a CV
These seem to sell for pretty low prices.
Much cheaper than new pfs from germany.
I am thinking of buying a IPB, do a reclearcoat and install in my machine.
But before i do i would very much like
To hear some opinions, cons, pros..
Much appreciated [quoted image]
I bought one of these 10-15 years ago. Sat under the bed until Covid gave me some time. Pf is great, only thing missing was all the dimples. I had to do lots of measuring. I am pleased with the pf.
Mine has a pink Join the Cirqus on the pf.
3 months later
Quoted from jbovenzi:Another question please:
I just got the scrolls for the game and am wondering how to mount them. I see 6 (!!!) holes for a screw pass through on each scroll.
Is this what most of you have done? Screw holes to top and side of Backbox, or double sided tape on the top of the Backbox?
I would imagine that 6 screws for each would really prevent them from falling off during a game.
I screwed mine right to the head. They are never coming off, so I didn’t see the points of just using tape to prevent the holes.
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I painted mine silver and used two screws per scroll. I am really happy how it turned out!
[quoted image]
The two tones look so good. I wish I had colored the jewels when I painted mine. I just did a pearl purple.
1 month later
Quoted from Pinkitten:My CV makeover is nearly finished. Just added candy blue over chrome legs, chrome door, hinges, etc. New upper pf, DMD cover, green menagerie ball, lock bar receiver and pf hangers and more. Next is Voodoo glass and Radcals, then the scrolls go back up! I joined the Circus and reached the final multiball mode, which is awesome. This game has great rules and a really fun 4-stage wizard mode. This JPop pin is a keeper.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks really nice. Are you going to paint the scrolls to match the legs or go “candy purple”
Balloon mod looks good too. Fits the theme nicely. More pics of your pf!
Quoted from Pinkitten:I’ll keep the scrolls original. Do people paint them? Here are a few more pics!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I really like your blue neon, mine is ugly orange. I painted my scrolls pearlized purple. One other club member painted all the jewels a silver color and it looked great.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mzhulk:Does anybody know where this connector goes or is even used? It comes off one of the gi bulbs.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Pretty sure it goes to a bulb under the apron.
1 week later
Quoted from PinballGalore:what would be the best rom to get for a CV at home? I noticed the one im working on has 1.0 (!!)
Thanks
2.0 home rom.
1 week later
Quoted from GPS:Just wondering if there was any reasoning behind the color of the neon tube in the games. Mine is that orange color and have been thinking about changing it to the green which I prefer. Thoughts??
I have orange too, worst color. The frosted tube green and purple look really good. Those are my favorites that I have seen.
Quoted from GPS:Thank you fellas
If you change out your neon and you are doing the ball too. Let me know if you find a yellow ball. Mine is red and yellow looks great.
4 weeks later
Quoted from mikekemp:Added a Pin2dmd with colour files. Excellent job done on the colour and really adds to the games. A must on this game IMO
[quoted image]
I have the same setup with the Pin2dmd. Absolutely love it. I have pin2dmd in every single dmd pin I have.
Really like your blue neon as well.
1 year later
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:No problem!!! Glad to help!
Richard
Marco had this pf at Allentown. I can only assume it was a mirco production.
4426B2B9-785D-494D-8D62-8D6885D7A982 (resized).jpeg5E093A66-76CE-42A2-BE6B-191573E148FC (resized).jpegC1D096BB-4AC0-4F4A-8B58-D1B2F70E117F (resized).jpegE25D1937-2ABA-4BF6-AE64-606DA55A4859 (resized).jpegE7194A4E-2CAE-4073-B188-36234C7AB03F (resized).jpegBF628F3C-E7FA-447F-86C3-25AA73F43CF9 (resized).jpegF5CBCD98-EC64-41BF-8C79-6464FDB3D387 (resized).jpegQuoted from Coyote:Interesting, thanks! I had one person tell me that one of the two at Allentown (apparently, Marco had a couple or more?) was IPB repro. Though, it would make sense they were both Mirco, since IPB repros likely woulda ended up at PPS.
I have a pink version IPB playfield in my CV if you need pics of those juggler inserts.
10 months later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I’ve picked up a CV to restore and hoping this club can help me answer a few things:
1. How does the neon install? Mine has an aftermarket thing in there but I’ve bought a neon with 2 wires at each end
2. Is the larger of the 2 subway ramps available anywhere? Mine is broken
3. Best artblades solution? I see a few options
That’s all for now
Favorite artblades are holographic from pingraffix.
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Danbury, WI
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