(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,236 posts
  • 274 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 35 hours ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders

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#678 6 years ago

Hey guys just joined the club. Took a buddies CV just to work on a few issues we did a temp trade with my Stern Harley 3rd edition. After I started digging into it, I though out an offer with the Harley as trade also and he can back with a counter offer on a little more cash and now the deal is done.
Woke up early this morning and installed Comet LED's and it came out Great.
I Love Comet Ice Blue LED's also one of the only LED I will use for GI it looks great. I was trying to see if Comet would make there flame bulb with Ice Blue also that would look great.
Here's a pic after with the LED's. Only a few LED's where in this when I got it, someone installed purple and green sets under the sling shots and a few greens around the ringmaster. The slings seem ok not sure if I like the green around the ringmaster mainly because they are not frosted and you can see them so a little to bright they might get swapped out.

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#684 6 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Looks great. I got mine shopped with all cool frosted white LED. I could not even look at the playfield it was so bright! I replaced all the whites. I used mostly blue frosted, some purple frosted.

I use a lot of Comet 2smd Sunlight. I did this CV with Sunlight for the GI and some of the inserts that aren't color matched and a few Ice Blue in a couple GI spots and used Warm white in the backbox and just didn't fill every spot in the backbox so it wouldn't be to bright.

Most of my WPC games have Sunlight a couple I used Warm White like Demo Man it just matched better and usually use Cool White in the newer pins like our Nascar and in backboxs also depends on the art but it takes some playing around and a lot of extra bulbs so you can experiment with it while your doing it and can use whichever looks best.

#686 6 years ago

Wow that's a Hell of a Restore. Going to try some of his mods, going to try that bell and see how annoying it is

2 weeks later
#688 5 years ago

So got a question on the Status Dot for issues. I got this CV with a few issues and have been working through them, I keep getting issues with switches to check and then I check them in switch test and the issue goes away. The main switch that comes up is the left out lane seems to not get hit very often, Out lane post might be to closed but that's something for later to move.
This morning I thought I fixed every issue and played for almost 2 hours without a problem then came back after a little while and there it was Status Dot check switch for left out lane. Checked in matrix and it went away. Is there a setting to not give this warning that often. I know I had to turn off a setting like that in my Road Kings to not give a warning every time the game turned on and a switch had not been hit for X amount of games. Right now every couple hours I got to hit that switch in switch test.

1 year later
#912 4 years ago

Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?

I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.

Thanks

#915 4 years ago

I posted a video in the FB Pinball repair group it can't here.

All the trough opto's work fine in test including the eject opto 31, the shooter lane switch works fine. Everything seems to work fine balls are kicked out fine when they are supposed to be even during multiball or ball saves.
Just say after ball one is shot into the shooter lane I get soft hits from the through coil usually 3 to 5 hits then it goes away until I drain then again after say ball 2 gets kicked out. They are soft fantom like hits, they are not hard enough to shoot a ball into the shooter lane. But if i drain and the ball saver is on it kicks out just fine, coil hits hard.

I pulled the through mech out cleaned and waxed the trough, reflowed the opto boards, the transmitters are all working.

With the game in switch test I never see anything going in or out even with shaking of the machine. I'm going to swap in another trough receiver board from another game but with the coil hits being soft it's not like a standard trough board issue with a bad or dirty opto at least it doesn't seem that way because I'm not getting extra alls put in play just soft coil hits from the trough coil.

#917 4 years ago

Yeah No (A)

It doesn't seem like the normal through issues with extra balls getting kicked out and funny stuff like that. I just get these phantom soft coil hits after each main ball is kicked out usually not after a ball save ball or after multiball started.

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#919 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Cameron wrote this code, and specifically adjusted the coil kickout to AVOID kicking out a second ball. Yeah - he did that on purpose, and AFAIK, it was written into the OS this way so games / firmwares released afterward (and that used the new OS) took advantage of this feature.

Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.

I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?

I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.

1 month later
#984 4 years ago

I had Mr_Tantrum print me a set of these. He prints them on nice photo paper and laminates them they are really nice and glossy. If you don't want to do it yourself like me.

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11 months later
#1217 3 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you. Not sure we’re talking about the same issue though as this is occurring when there is only one ball sent to the lock location in the ramp. It sees it as being locked but after the video stuff the ball is let go onto the play field??

Are the Juggler lock switches working correctly also? If it's showing balls there it will release the HW ball. Just a thought.

1 year later
#1809 2 years ago

Picked up a gorgeous NOS CV playfield that was clear coated about 8 years at the Louisville Expo this weekend. No ghosting, super smooth. Can't wait to start this restore.

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#1815 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Beautiful playfield. Do you have the cabinet for it already? Is it original or will you do new decals or Radcals? I went with Radcals and they turned out great. Can’t wait to see yours finished!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Your looks great also.
I'm on the fence still on the Radcals, my lower cab is great but the head could use some new decals. I did Radcals in my Totan so it will look good together with Radcals. More than likely I will do it also.

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