(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 34 days ago by amxfc3s
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There are 988 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 20.
#401 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

On my CV, shots to the Acrobats ramp often fly off the ramp on the left side of the playfield. The game is level and pitched at 7 degrees. Any tips or tricks to keep the ball on the rails?

This was (still is?) extremely common. Adjust the wireform and the metal guides in small amounts. When adjusted right, you may get *occasional* fly-offs, but most of them should stay on.

#402 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

On my CV, shots to the Acrobats ramp often fly off the ramp on the left side of the playfield. The game is level and pitched at 7 degrees. Any tips or tricks to keep the ball on the rails?

make sure the ball isn't hitting the juggler plastic. mine was after i did my superband install. removed a washer to lower it. seems better now.

#403 2 years ago

Does anyone have a source on where to get the back box spinner animal decals, specifically the penguin and the skunk/racoon? The squirrel is still available but I don't need that one. The are listed as "cirqus voltaire under ramp decals".

PN #31-2835-2
PN #31-2835-4

Marcos and Pinball Australia have them marked as out of stock. I inquired with Marcos and they won't be reproducing them or have them available. I haven't asked Rick yet at PPS.

1 week later
#404 2 years ago

my sister broke a flipper on sunday, so it gave me an excuse to rebuild them. just finished up. finally replaced the purple flippers that came on it with white ones. replaced the green menagerie ball with a blue one, too. works better with the color scheme.

you can see my new superband rubbers i put everywhere and pinblades. that was about two weeks ago. she's coming along.

IMAG0645[1] (resized).jpg

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#405 2 years ago

Looks really good and the mirror blades go well with the playfield. Ironically you mentioned about your back up post and I snagged mine when putting my playfield back in!

#406 2 years ago

Hello everyone, first post in what looks to be a good forum.

So, I just purchased a CV. I haven't received it yet, but I should be here late next week. This is my first pin, and I couldnMt be more excited!

That said, I've been trying to catch up on information I will need to keep my machine in perfect working condition.

The first question I have is about the playfield protectors. I've read that clear coating can actually damage this surface because of the type of glue used in the insets.

I really like the concept of playfield protectors (plastic laser cut ones), but I don't completely understand how these work with the pop up componets on the play surface. It seems to me like this would create an uneven surface, and from the look of it, they don't sell parts which cover the pop ups like the ringmaster and boom balloon.

Does anyone have any idea how this works? Also, I would love any feedback on playfield protection in general.

#407 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Hello everyone, first post in what looks to be a good forum.
So, I just purchased a CV. I haven't received it yet, but I should be here late next week. This is my first pin, and I couldnMt be more excited!
That said, I've been trying to catch up on information I will need to keep my machine in perfect working condition.
The first question I have is about the playfield protectors. I've read that clear coating can actually damage this surface because of the type of glue used in the insets.
I really like the concept of playfield protectors (plastic laser cut ones), but I don't completely understand how these work with the pop up componets on the play surface. It seems to me like this would create an uneven surface, and from the look of it, they don't sell parts which cover the pop ups like the ringmaster and boom balloon.
Does anyone have any idea how this works? Also, I would love any feedback on playfield protection in general.

Full playfield protectors have all the holes cut out for where everything sticks up through the playfield. It would be a royal pain to install one on a CV. They are best suited to older games that have a lot of sunken inserts because the protector will make it play like flat again. I think there is a Cliffy type protector made for the Ringmaster hole, but I don't have one on mine. Just clean/wax the playfield and enjoy playing it. Put new balls in if they don't look new already.

#408 2 years ago

anyone selling privately or know of a site with ready to order purple coin doors? this universal door with mismatched bezels looks like hell next to the SS i just bought.

#409 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Full playfield protectors have all the holes cut out for where everything sticks up through the playfield. It would be a royal pain to install one on a CV. They are best suited to older games that have a lot of sunken inserts because the protector will make it play like flat again. I think there is a Cliffy type protector made for the Ringmaster hole, but I don't have one on mine. Just clean/wax the playfield and enjoy playing it. Put new balls in if they don't look new already.

Awesome! I've read that a lot of owners of even the new Sterns are putting protectors on the play field. Obviously being new to the world of pinball ownership, I want nothing more than to keep this absolutely perfect for as long as possible. I will certainly take a look at the play surface before jumping directly into a protector. Thank you for the feedback!

1 week later
#410 2 years ago

my vuk bracket is bent all to hell, and i couldn't find an oem replacement. stumbled on this last night, so i ordered:

https://mantispinball.com/product/cirqus-voltaire-popper-vuk-bracket/

fyi, in case anyone is looking for one.

#411 2 years ago

the old one:
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#412 2 years ago

no wonder i wasn't getting much kick.

1 week later
#413 2 years ago

alright, is there a secret to adjusting the switches behind the ringmaster? the ones for the inner jackpot and spin loop. it is so annoying to get to cirqus wizard mode and i can't spell cirqus because i can't light the damn q. teach me, please.

#414 2 years ago

Has anyone experienced or noticed that their neon ramp is kind of "foggy?" Is this a normal scenario because of the heat of the neon, or is mine messed up? The rest of my plastics look really clean.

#415 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Has anyone experienced or noticed that their neon ramp is kind of "foggy?" Is this a normal scenario because of the heat of the neon, or is mine messed up? The rest of my plastics look really clean.

I have the exact same issue. I've thought of taking it all apart to clean it but don't want to drill out the rivets. Mine is green, BTW.

#416 2 years ago

Just FYI, the neon would never get hot enough to cloud the plastic.
Could be UV light escaping and causing that to happen, or something else..

#417 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I have the exact same issue. I've thought of taking it all apart to clean it but don't want to drill out the rivets. Mine is green, BTW.

Yeah, I looked at it...I have no idea how to remove/replace those rivets. Why the hell did they use those?? I think some bolts would have been just fine :/.

#418 2 years ago

I had to drill out the rivets to replace the neon with a uv one. There are pinball rivet kits available, but I used small bolts with lock nuts.

#419 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Yeah, I looked at it...I have no idea how to remove/replace those rivets. Why the hell did they use those?? I think some bolts would have been just fine :/.

Or zip ties done right looks good too...

You don't need a playfield protector in a home environment, if you plan to put it on location to earn money, then maybe consider it, otherwise it's just a product to cause some folks to jump. Keep the pf waxed and you'll be golden. Look around for Vid1900's how to threads and learn pinball till your eyes bleed. Also, there's a good book on eBay I wish I had bought years ago..."pinball machine care and maintenance" lots of good reference for the new guy. If you can fix stuff on CV, you can fix stuff on almost anything, it's crammed with just about every piece of tech in pinball.

I think the haze in the neon plastic is typical, the only way I cleared mine up only a little bit was flame polishing it; not a task to learn on this piece though...

Oh also, I think it's sort of a right of passage with CV to learn to lower the playfield down just right with out breaking the dmd plastic, slow and steady

Have fun with your new game!

#420 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Or zip ties done right looks good too...
You don't need a playfield protector in a home environment, if you plan to put it on location to earn money, then maybe consider it, otherwise it's just a product to cause some folks to jump. Keep the pf waxed and you'll be golden. Look around for Vid1900's how to threads and learn pinball till your eyes bleed. Also, there's a good book on eBay I wish I had bought years ago..."pinball machine care and maintenance" lots of good reference for the new guy. If you can fix stuff on CV, you can fix stuff on almost anything, it's crammed with just about every piece of tech in pinball.
I think the haze in the neon plastic is typical, the only way I cleared mine up only a little bit was flame polishing it; not a task to learn on this piece though...
Oh also, I think it's sort of a right of passage with CV to learn to lower the playfield down just right with out breaking the dmd plastic, slow and steady
Have fun with your new game!

I like the playfield protector concept. It is like the glass cover on my phone surface. I don't need it, but I use it because the second that I see a scratch I'll be annoyed. So far, the playfield protector doesn't seem to impact the game play at all, but I only tested it for a few hours without it.

I really appreciate the recommendation for how to wax it. I would like to do that eventually. Obviously I don't need to wax it with the protector, but I did a nice cleaning and it could certainly afford to be waxed. It's in awesome shape, but it has those tiny scratch marks like a car gets in the clear coat. I know you can buff those into a perfectly smooth surface with some good wax.

Flame polishing sounds both awesome and terrifying. If it annoys me, I'll probably just buy another ramp. There seem to be plentiful replacement parts for this machine.

You are completely correct about the playfield! I think I've got it down, but I open it like I'm carrying a newborn hemophiliac baby through a cacti forest. It certainly doesn't help that the playfield on this is heavy! It must weigh around 60lbs with everything on it, and it's such a strange angle...I'm constantly in fear.

I'm having a ton of fun with my game! I've replaced all of the burnt out lights, rubbers, rebuilt the flippers, etc. It's really starting to come together. I'll toss a picture up since I'm proud of the work I've done .

IMG_2149 (resized).jpg

#421 2 years ago

I had a couple of quick questions about the game that other owners might be able to answer:

1) The plastic that serves as the ringmaster's collar...does that occasionally flop around when hit by a powerful enough ball? It has absolutely nothing to hold down the back of it, and actually seems like kind of a crappy design since the only nuts are in the very front.

2) What does the "empty balls test" do? The manual says that it empties the balls into the shooter lane, however mine just cycles the balls forever.

Thanks

#422 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What does the "empty balls test" do? The manual says that it empties the balls into the shooter lane, however mine just cycles the balls forever.

Empties the balls to the shooter lane so you can take the balls out of the game so you can lift the playfield.

#423 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Empties the balls to the shooter lane so you can take the balls out of the game so you can lift the playfield.

It will eject any balls that are locked or in the VUK too, the idea is that you grab them before they go back into the trough.

#424 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It will eject any balls that are locked or in the VUK too, the idea is that you grab them before they go back into the trough.

I had assumed they would stop moving . It is my first pin :/.

#425 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I had assumed they would stop moving . It is my first pin :/.

How? If the shooter lane gets filled up, where would the rest of the balls in the trough kick out to?

#426 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

How? If the shooter lane gets filled up, where would the rest of the balls in the trough kick out to?

I guess I pictured the balls somehow popping up, but not shooting out of the lane. In hindsight this doesn't make sense.

#428 2 years ago
Quoted from Elevatorman:

I'm in the club.
I'll add pics tonight.

Nice! Congratulations.

#429 2 years ago

On the "roller switch mod" for the highwire ramp, does that solve the issue with all release not happening fast enough to register a single ball?

I've noticed that my game will sometimes have to u lock one single ball from the highwire ramp, yet the timing on the piston is too short for one ball to roll past it. The piston will pop back into position, then trap the ball against the hirewire. This causes it to release again, but then often times will trigger the game to release all of the balls, and hit an early multi-ball situation.

Has anyone else experienced this?

#430 2 years ago

i had highwire problems when i first got my CV. i put rollers in, but they didn't really fix the issue. the switches worked better, but then i got balls stuck like you're having, i think. the big fix was moving the switch arm to the second nub on the switch assemblies. this loosens the tension on the switch to let balls roll easier over them. absolutely no problem since.

#431 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

alright, is there a secret to adjusting the switches behind the ringmaster? the ones for the inner jackpot and spin loop. it is so annoying to get to cirqus wizard mode and i can't spell cirqus because i can't light the damn q. teach me, please.

got my highest score yet last night: 96m. i started out in test mode, since i had the glass off. got switch 25 working before i started playing. it's almost like it needs to be loosened up or it loses adjustment when it sits for a few days. does that make any sense? maybe i'll just pull it out and adjust it that way. i don't think i'm really correcting anything while installed through the playfield.

#432 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i had highwire problems when i first got my CV. i put rollers in, but they didn't really fix the issue. the switches worked better, but then i got balls stuck like you're having, i think. the big fix was moving the switch arm to the second nub on the switch assemblies. this loosens the tension on the switch to let balls roll easier over them. absolutely no problem since.

I've actually done that mod (attached image). It doesn't seem to speed up the ball roll when that piston drops. I think there is also something in the service bulletin about adding a washer under the middle of that ramp. Perhaps that slight increase in pitch allows for one ball to roll out before closing?

My switches are registering the balls correctly, this issue just occurs in that situation where three balls are on the wire, but based on the game state, only one ball technically locked. If the game needs another ball, it will release the piston for about two seconds, apparently aiming to drop a single ball. On mine, the ball starts to roll slowly, but then the piston comes back up and jams the ball into the wire. Sensing that the ball has not dropped, the game drops the piston again, in which case the first ball drops...but it still recognizes that the previously second ball (now first ball) is on the first switch. This then forces the game into a multiball mode where all of the balls drop.

All I can think is that you either have to slow the timing of the piston down slightly, or increase the balls ability to pick up momentum when the piston is lowered.

Screen Shot 2017-06-13 at 9.52.42 AM (resized).png

#433 2 years ago

are your balls magnetized, sticking to each other?

#434 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

are your balls magnetized, sticking to each other?

I just pulled them out, and tested them on a flat surface. They don't show any signs of being magnetized.

#435 2 years ago

here's my setup. do you have that plastic spacer for lift? i also have plastic protectors on mine, so there's two layers of game/art plastic, too.
IMAG0690[1] (resized).jpg

#436 2 years ago

Interested in purchasing a cv. Can anyone share some experience with theirs? Current pricing, game play etc. Thanks all

#437 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

here's my setup. do you have that plastic spacer for lift? i also have plastic protectors on mine, so there's two layers of game/art plastic, too.

IMHO, if you need to have the spacer there to make sure balls are dropping out correctly, your game is not leveled steep enough. Give the game some speed!

#438 2 years ago

oh, that's not factory? came as is with the game. yeah, i definitely don't run my pins very steep. i try to take it easy on my friends and 5 year old daughter.

#439 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

oh, that's not factory? came as is with the game. yeah, i definitely don't run my pins very steep. i try to take it easy on my friends and 5 year old daughter.

It was offered as the upgrade kit, offered a couple months after production started. The same kit told operators to drill in a post behind the left Bally-Hoo standup at the Ringmaster.

On the two games I owned, I kept them at between a good 6.5-7.0 slope, and never had to insert the spacer. (Hell, I nevere even had to put the roller-switches on. Was I lubky? Both times? I dunno..)

At a lesser slope, the ramp's not as steep, so the timing of the coil plunger isn't long enough to allow a ball out. Hence the spacer and getting a steeper slope.

however, AT a steeper slope, the front ball can 'ride up' on the plunger, which means that the top chrome wireform should be bent down using large plumber's wrench and a towel - down as far as it can go and not bind on the balls in the lock. That will prvent the ballse from 'riding up' and off a switch.

#440 2 years ago
Quoted from Ozzy:

Interested in purchasing a cv. Can anyone share some experience with theirs? Current pricing, game play etc. Thanks all

got mine for $6800 back in february. condition was a little above average, i'd guess, but not much.

gameplay is some of the best in pinball, imo. hitting the orbits, outer and mini behind the ringmaster especially, really speed things up. nice flow off the ramps. the acrobat shot/ramp is very satisfying. highwire ball locks satisfy, also. both locks, highwire and juggler, are physical ball locks. always a plus in my book. not a lot of places for the ball to get hung up, pops are out of the way, etc.

best part is the music. i cant get enough of it. hook it up to a sub and enjoy. backbox/dmd configuration: nothing else like it, obviously. great game; greaaat game.

#441 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

got mine for $6800 back in february. condition was a little above average, i'd guess, but not much.
gameplay is some of the best in pinball, imo. hitting the orbits, outer and mini behind the ringmaster especially, really speed things up. nice flow off the ramps. the acrobat shot/ramp is very satisfying. highwire ball locks satisfy, also. both locks, highwire and juggler, are physical ball locks. always a plus in my book. not a lot of places for the ball to get hung up, pops are out of the way, etc.
best part is the music. i cant get enough of it. hook it up to a sub and enjoy. backbox/dmd configuration: nothing else like it, obviously. great game; greaaat game.

You summed it up great...no need to say more.
Great pin!

#442 2 years ago

CV can be very addicting if set up correctly

#443 2 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

CV can be very addicting if set up correctly

Yep, so I had written this game off, but got a super nice one in on trade. Complete resto with clear coated playfield and the works. Plays like a dream and I could not stop playing it yesterday.

#444 2 years ago

I've attempted to make an actual guide for the Cirqus Voltaire rubber. I'm going to create a machine on Titan Pinball's DB that has all of these rings in it...but I wanted to double check with the community first (just to make sure I got everything).
I know this isn't perfect...but I'm super annoyed that there isn't a good list/drawing anywhere .
let me know what you think.

Bally_1997_Cirqus_Voltaire_Rubber-01 (resized).png

Added over 2 years ago: I realized there are actually 4x 1-1/2'' rings. I missed one because they are stacked on the right side of the playfield. Pinside won't let me update the post because the time has passed, but if anyone wants the updated picture, just PM me. I also put the kit over here (https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/575).

2 weeks later
#445 2 years ago

What a special day for me and my brother ... we joined CIRQUS!

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#446 2 years ago
Quoted from kurgan999:

What a special day for me and my brother ... we joined CIRQUS!

Looks sweet! Hope you're having a boat load of fun!!!

#447 2 years ago

I picked up a CV several months ago and have dealt with this issue all along but have just now found the time to investigate. When obtaining the first highwire lock ball I immediately get a sneaky lock and have two highwire locks, when of course I've only achieved one. In test mode each switch individually activates properly but in edge test I drop a ball from the magnet, get three audible switch activations (presumably high, middle, then low) but the last switch activated as shown on the DMD is 67 (middle lock switch). Although all three switches were activated, this delay in the middle switch signal must be communicating that a second ball as entered the lock after switch 66 (low lock switch) has been triggered (which of course it has not). This issue is 100% repeatable when dropping the ball from the magnet, but when the ball is released half way down the wireform the switches perform correctly with low lock being the last switch activated. This seems to indicate that with the faster ball speed from the magnet the middle switch is delayed and activates after the lower switch, but with the slower ball speed from mid wireform everything performs correctly. I've tried manipulating the switches to have a smaller gap on the middle switch (quicker activation) and larger on the low switch (slower activation) but this hasn't helped a bit. Is my issue related to some sort of delay in feedback from the middle switch or perhaps the slope of the wireform?

Appreciate any help, your mother drives a dumptruck!

#448 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCoug:

I picked up a CV several months ago and have dealt with this issue all along but have just now found the time to investigate. When obtaining the first highwire lock ball I immediately get a sneaky lock and have two highwire locks, when of course I've only achieved one. In test mode each switch individually activates properly but in edge test I drop a ball from the magnet, get three audible switch activations (presumably high, middle, then low) but the last switch activated as shown on the DMD is 67 (middle lock switch). Although all three switches were activated, this delay in the middle switch signal must be communicating that a second ball as entered the lock after switch 66 (low lock switch) has been triggered (which of course it has not). This issue is 100% repeatable when dropping the ball from the magnet, but when the ball is released half way down the wireform the switches perform correctly with low lock being the last switch activated. This seems to indicate that with the faster ball speed from the magnet the middle switch is delayed and activates after the lower switch, but with the slower ball speed from mid wireform everything performs correctly. I've tried manipulating the switches to have a smaller gap on the middle switch (quicker activation) and larger on the low switch (slower activation) but this hasn't helped a bit. Is my issue related to some sort of delay in feedback from the middle switch or perhaps the slope of the wireform?
Appreciate any help, your mother drives a dumptruck!

Bad switch. It's gummed up. Get a new one.

#449 2 years ago

I agree. There is no "delay" in the signal. When the switch closes the CPU sees the state change instantly. Sounds like the middle switch could be gummy and slow to open back up. Best practice is a new switch, but in a pinch I have fixed this type of issue with alcohol. Take the switch completely out of the game and squirt it good with alcohol, working the switch open/closed a bunch of times. Make sure to blow out all the alcohol and give time for evaporation before putting the switch back in the game.

But like Coyote said, just replace the switch.

#450 2 years ago

Kurgan, is your neon working?

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