any quick do's or don'ts with powered subs on this game? unplug the cab speaker? dual input with another game? sorry, i'm a powered sub virgin; a little scared.

switches ordered, btw.

The right way is to get the Pinnovators kit. The not as good way but works is soldering/alligator clipped to the sub. I will say that having a PSW10 on CV sounds great.

Good call on the switches. They've seen better days anyway. "Your mother drives a dump truck!"

$35 isn't bad. plus you have the line out, which can be used with their 4 port thingy. ty.

rollover switches in: same problems.

switches are too strong; that's the bottom line. i need a lane switch. something that can't hold the ball up. i tried bending the wire form top down and i got balls stuck on the vertical part of that piece.

i'm so f'n depressed.

The switches being too strong is not the problem or we'd all have this issue. It appears that either the top of that guide must be too high and it's letting the ball raise too far, although I don't think I've ever seen the ball actually touching that guide on my game. If you want to measure it I'd be willing to pull the glass on mine and do the same for comparison. What's the slope of your game set to? Can you take a picture from the side of how the habitrail is attached to the top of the post and what's between it and the top of the post?

this is such a crappy design, no?

when the switch is too low, it won't stay down. then i get it too high, and the second ball gets stuck on it when multiball starts. so frustrating.

i actually got it to work once before i stopped messing with it. i had to find that fine line. we'll see what it does next time...

Try moving the actuating lever to the other set of nubs.

Edit, for more info - The inside nub will be a little stiffer, but give a lot more travel while actuated. The outside nub requires less force to actuate, but has a much small actuating window.

NEITHER position should be tight enough to *hold up a ball*. If it IS, your game is not leveled right - or there's something else wrong in how the wireform is assembled. (One leg under a nut instead of over, etc?)

On the two CVs I've had, I kept my game between 6.5-7 degrees, and on the steeper slopes, had to squeeze down the top guide, so the ball didn't ride up the lock shaft, but other than that, it worked fine..

I would say no just because mine has been basically perfect since I put roller switches in it which was right after I got it many years ago. It's pinball, shit breaks - that's part of its charm!!

i didn't know switches had multiple nubs. i'll try that. it's on the default, outside nubs.

my game is probably at 6*, i'd guess. top of the bubble is just touching the bottom line.

thanks for the replies. it does give me hope, when you guys say you don't really have any issues with this. i think i'm really close.

now it seems my balloon pop stopped coming out of the playfield...

My Highwire lock never malfunctions, I mean never. You might have identified the problem. The pitch. I just checked mine and the top of the bubble is at the 4th line from the bottom(3rd line from the top). I do not have rollover switches, just the regular switches.

My h/w lock has never failed since i installed the roller switches. You might want to check if you have the nylon spacer installed (fix No. 2 from the service bulletin below), it makes the last part of the ramp much steeper.

Regarding the BB, are the rollover switches all registering?

PastedGraphic-1 (resized).png

I would think making the ramp steeper would be worse, not better for his problem. I did notice that you have an additional piece of metal, which looks like a ramp protector tab under the habitrail mounting point on top of the post. Mine does not have that and it makes me wonder if it's pushing the habitrail up enough that the ball is hitting the tapered part of the up/down post and pushing the ball upwards. Would still like to see a good picture of that spot from the side to get a better understanding of how far the post is extended about the habitrail.

IMHO, I had an issue with drilling a hole in my playfield. On my samples, I never did any of the things listed in that bulletin. With a nice slope on the playfield, never had issues.

Coyote, you're the winner. moved the switch arm to the inner set of nubs: i'm in biz! tyvm.

i had a similar idea yesterday, just different method. i tried putting a little piece of rubber under the arm, so the arm wouldn't need to go down as far. it worked better, but actually moving the arm inward did it way cleaner and it works flawless now. again, thank you. i had not idea that was even an option on those switches. the more you know...

the balloon pop came up in test and now comes up during gameplay. the apron switch barely works, however. i'll have to check that donkey out.

hooked up my psw10 and pinnovator daughter board. sound is unreal. thanks for the advice there, too, guys. my CV is getting there. slowly, but surely.

figured out my balloon pop issue. the spring on the plunger somehow came undone and was pushing on the leaf switch. removed the yoke and put the spring back where it's supposed to be. back in biz there, too.

i put my green ringmaster on tonight. holy crap that was hard. also, put a silver ball shooter rod and all new shooter parts on. that little metal clamp was a pita. put white flipper buttons on. she's coming back real nice. i might finally get to the lights soon.

the flasher under the balloon pop, just a regular white bulb or did it originally have a condom on it?

also, i didn't really think about it before, but i just have a fiber yoke on that pop. adding the metal one on there should liven that girl up, right? it's not very impressive currently.

another thing, i pulled all the insert led's and replaced with natural whites. original owner didn't really have this thing color matched very well. a lot of the cyan inserts were either green or blue. it's like a whole new game!

Do you mean the lamp IN the pop bumper, or the actual flasher, underneath the playfield.
In both cases, as far as I remember, they were both bare.

do those backbox glare guards do much? this game is obviously worse than usual with the unique design.

It's the first machine I needed to get one for. Especially with the color DMD. Really helps.

i noticed a loose wire under my balloon pop. that would explain the light being out. what lug does it solder to?

IMAG0552[1] (resized).jpg

IMAG0553[1] (resized).jpg

i guessed, and i suppose i guessed correctly. the light is back on.

here's a quick pic of my switch to colored gi:
IMAG0555[1] (resized).jpg
i'm a big fan. ran out of ice blue, however. wanted to put a few of those up around the juggler plastics and maybe the shooter lane.

does a lensed led fit in the balloon pop? i have an unlensed red smd in there now, and it just looks like a red dot. not dispersing very well.

sometimes when i crush the center ramp, i guess the ball is moving too fast for the magnet to grab it. game code corrects with a virtual lock or starts multiball, which is pretty slick. is this normal or you think there's something that could be worked on to speed up the magnet?

Totally normal. You're racing against the game turning the magnet on and sometimes it's just too fast for the magnetic field to catch it.

that was my thought. ty.

Design story infos of this great pin could be found here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cirqus-voltaire-prototype-story-and-design-changes#post-3670426

Does anyone know where I can find a backbox decal?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-CV-CABBBNG
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spareparts/cabinet-products/decals/cirqus-voltaire-backbox-decals.html

i have a funny. i bought my CV back in february, i think. i've been playing the entire time with a non-functional upper diverter post. no wonder it was so hard to join the cirqus! i had to hit the orbit with just enough power to get it up there, but not too much that it would complete the orbit. makes me laugh now .

Huh. How'd you ever get the sideshow?

again, i guess i was hitting it with just enough momentum to manually drop it in one of the subway entrances.

the post was definitely not working. power wire came off the lug. not an intermittent issue.

Ah no not the backbox decals, sorry, I meant the inside backbox decal, you know where the canon ball gets launched over Do those exist at all?

PPS just recently started making them.. Check their store.

Hi all. i also joined the club some weeks ago. a fantastic game! i wonder of you could help me with this. where can i buy the plastic from the boom baloon bumper? thank you in advance. best regards ralf

ebay, i believe.

Undortunately not

google. first result:

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-CV1

Not available

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/bally/cirqus-voltaire/circus-voltaire-backbox-insert-overlay-decal.html

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/cirqus-voltaire/3966/balloon-plastic-for-cirqus-voltaire?c=2527

parts-finder weaver over here .

So. little late to the this, but finally installed color led dmd in mine, WOW! If you have this game you have to have this, cost his high I know. Options, save the old one for later, or sell it. Colors on CV work super good with it.

http://littleshopofgames.com/product/cirqus-voltaire-boom-baloon-plastic/

thank you!

Thanks weaverj!

When the LCD's started coming on to the market a few years ago,I thought CV was going to miss out,thank god for the LED version.

The colors really are stunning.

Plus the install was super easy, in spite of the location of the display.

which one is the best colour of the neon? what is the original colour? were there different editions?
i saw you can buy some colours even a multicolour neon!
mine is green.

On my CV, shots to the Acrobats ramp often fly off the ramp on the left side of the playfield. The game is level and pitched at 7 degrees. Any tips or tricks to keep the ball on the rails?