(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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  • 988 posts
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  • Latest reply 24 days ago by amxfc3s
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There are 988 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 20.
#301 3 years ago

We are doing a run of these right now. Should be ready in about 3 weeks.

1 week later
#302 3 years ago

Brought these two into my mini gameroom today. TX came out of my storage, CV came from my work.

Don't they make a great pair?

I know: not really. Different brands and generations and all. Still: two awesome games. I'm thrilled to be able to play them regularly again!
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#303 3 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

http://www.johns-arcade.com/product-page/fc48e845-8db6-54a1-3e60-f2d86785e122
Homepin makes one but it's out of stock. Maybe ask Homepin if they plan to produce more.

A-15680 boards have been dispatched to Pinball Life, air express.

Terry should have them in stock next week.

3 weeks later
#304 2 years ago

Just installed blackout mod, which allows control of the backbox General Illumination (GI), works great!
When all playfield GI is switched off also the backbox GI will be switched off.

DIY technical description from Matt Masters
http://www.habosarcade.com/Media/AFM/AFM%20GI%20Relay%20by%20Matt%20Masters.zip

Or order a ready made drop in board from:
1. http://mypinballs.com/electronics/gi_blackout.jsp
2. http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=387

1 week later
#305 2 years ago

Found an old photo of testing one of my custom color neons.
I can't recall off-hand the color. But this was a rich blue. Had purple phosphor, in blue glass, lit by red neon gas. Made a VERY dark, rich violet. THe color was effin' amazing, but it was NOT bright.

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#306 2 years ago

Coyote you have any still laying around I could snag?

#307 2 years ago
Quoted from Starscream:

Coyote you have any still laying around I could snag?

Unfortunately no. I had *1* left, up until I moved into the new house back in 2012 - it shattered in move.

I have one SW:EP1 tube left, would have to connect it up to see what color it is.

Eventually, when I get a CV back into my collection, I may start making them again, non-commercially. When I do, I'll drop a note here and let you guys know.

1 month later
#308 2 years ago

Ok I'm in the club, I picked up this early Chris Hutchins restored CV sample game from a friend this weekend.. the game is stunning!! The clear coat on the playfield looks like glass.. it's the nicest playfield clear coat I have ever seen!
One small issue is that the ringmaster is not registering hits all the time, I am not framiliar with this mech and idea what to check first?

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#309 2 years ago

Looks like one of my custom neons, nice!

Also, I hate to say it, but the center marvel decal is off-center. The 'Visit Ring 3' text should be completely hidden. (However, regardless, it's kinda neat to see if under there..)

#310 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Ok I'm in the club, I picked up this early Chris Hutchins restored CV sample game from a friend this weekend.. the game is stunning!! The clear coat on the playfield looks like glass.. it's the nicest playfield clear coat I have ever seen!
One small issue is that the ringmaster is not registering hits all the time, I am not framiliar with this mech and idea what to check first?

Looks like a beauty. The ringmaster has an eddy sensor for hits directly to it (not the two bally hoo target switches), you may be able to adjust the potentiometer on it to make it more consistent. I put the auto eddy board from Pinbits in mine and it made it a lot better but it looks like they're sold out.

#311 2 years ago

I was just reading my CV manual and it looks like the game came with an auto Eddy board originally. My Ringmaster almost always registers hits, but a fast moving ball may sometimes not register.

#312 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I was just reading my CV manual and it looks like the game came with an auto Eddy board originally. My Ringmaster almost always registers hits, but a fast moving ball may sometimes not register.

Sample and early production games had auto boards. Mid run, they switched to the normal board. Not sure why, but that's why there's a setting in the Adjustments to specify whether you have/don't have the auto-adjust board.

#313 2 years ago

Sweet C.V Concrtetehadrt! Congrats!

#314 2 years ago

So I guess I should just order the new Eddy board from pinbits, hopefully they get them back in stock soon

#315 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

So I guess I should just order the new Eddy board from pinbits, hopefully they get them back in stock soon

I've never looked at the old board too closely (I'm sure I still have it around somewhere) but I'm guessing it's the same or similar to the ones that used in multiple games. Based on my experience (HUO) with those once they are adjusted right they keep working for a long time so I'd recommend you just adjust the one you have and see if you're good to go for a while.

#316 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I've never looked at the old board too closely (I'm sure I still have it around somewhere) but I'm guessing it's the same or similar to the ones that used in multiple games. Based on my experience (HUO) with those once they are adjusted right they keep working for a long time so I'd recommend you just adjust the one you have and see if you're good to go for a while.

I will give it a try
I'm going to dig thru the manual and see if I can find an adjustment procedure for the Eddy board.

#317 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I will give it a try
I'm going to dig thru the manual and see if I can find an adjustment procedure for the Eddy board.

Copied from another post:

* On the under the playfield eddy sensor control board, turn the potentiometer counter-clockwise until the LED just turns on.
* Now turn the potentiometer back clockwise until the LED just turns off.
That is all that is required to adjust the STNG/ToM/RS eddy sensor. To test the sensor, put the game into WPC diagnostic's first switch test. Then move a pinball over the playfield area where the eddy sensor is located. The switch should activate on display. Also from the bottom of the playfield, the eddy board LED should go ON as a ball passes in front of the eddy board's senssor (this can be seen anytime, the game does not need to be in switch test.)

1 week later
#318 2 years ago

I'll say. I've had two CVs in my collection in the past. While I don't have one anymore, I will play a virtual pin on my laptop on the ride to/from work sometimes.

I was playing tonight, and happened to get Juggler and RM Frenzy started, with 1 ramp to go before Strike An Arc, and 2 Highwire balls locked.

Did fantastic on the first two multiballs, and was able to slam the ball up the ramp to get the Super Duper Jackpot, and stack the other two multiballs on top of that.

The energy in the game.. gosh, made me really, really miss this game.

#319 2 years ago

Finally...7 months later...installed. Easier to do with the playfield turned on its side20170211_123159 (resized).jpg20170211_123211 (resized).jpg20170211_125228 (resized).jpg20170211_125330 (resized).jpg20170211_125540 (resized).jpg20170211_125549 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#321 2 years ago

has anyone had an issue where 1 ball gets locked (highwire), it immediately will say ball 2 locked, then dump the only ball there onto the playfield while saying one more for multiball?

all the switches test fine. i thought maybe the 2nd switch is getting held down by the first ball, but that's not the case. either way, that wouldn't release the first ball.

#322 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

has anyone had an issue where 1 ball gets locked (highwire), it immediately will say ball 2 locked, then dump the only ball there onto the playfield while saying one more for multiball?
all the switches test fine. i thought maybe the 2nd switch is getting held down by the first ball, but that's not the case. either way, that wouldn't release the first ball.

I haven't had the issue but haven't had my machine for more than a few months either. I know those switches are really finicky so if you haven't already checked the switches with the balls try that. I'd be watching to see if it's bouncing back. Or simply one of the switches is flaky and is registering locked ball. I know many people replace them with the roller switches. Either way, bump for the veteran owners of the game that can offer some real help.

#323 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

has anyone had an issue where 1 ball gets locked (highwire), it immediately will say ball 2 locked, then dump the only ball there onto the playfield while saying one more for multiball?
all the switches test fine. i thought maybe the 2nd switch is getting held down by the first ball, but that's not the case. either way, that wouldn't release the first ball.

No idea about the first ball being registered as ball 2 locked.

Apart from that i suspect you are using 2.0H rom? If so, go into feature adjustments and turn the physical high wire lock (PHYS. H/W LOCKS) on. This will stop the machine from dropping single balls immediately after they are locked.

#324 2 years ago

Also - check both switches on the highwire ramp. (Not the lock ones, the ramp ones, make sure they register correctly as well.)

#325 2 years ago

i've been playing around with them since i quit working. they are pos switches! they have a lot of tension, too. i can place a ball right before each one and it will sit there on the wire ramp. i think i need to bend them to make an apex, and have that point just behind the center of the ball maybe.

actually, these look like they have been "adjusted" a million times. probably beyond the point of return. well, almost. i'll get a pic, so you guys can tell me how jacked up they are.

2.0h; you got it. i'll check that setting.

appreciate the help, guys.

#326 2 years ago

oh, the balls that were in it were magnetized. i had balls sticking to each other on the highwire ramp. i put 4 new ones in.

ball trough was having problems before i replaced the balls. didn't put 2 and 2 together. i had an extra trough shimmy, so that's in there, too.

#327 2 years ago

hw locks were set to "yes", the default.

if i put a ball at the top of the hw ramp and let it drop, it's about 50/50 whether or not the ball keeps the switch registered. sometimes i get switch 66, hw low, to stay on the screen. the other half of the time, it'll just say last switch was 66.

#328 2 years ago

Replace the switches. I found years ago these nice switches with rolling balls on the actuators. I'll see if I can find the link.

#330 2 years ago

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#331 2 years ago

Holy cow, those are horrid!

Yeah, get the switches with the rollers - while not technically OEM (I'm not sure why WMS didn't use them.. DE used them everywhere back then!) they work millions times better.

#332 2 years ago

i might just do that.

i'm consistently not staying on top of that bottom switch from the top of the ramp now. if i let go of the ball right before the 3 switches, it'll keep 66 registered. it's like with enough speed, it'll jostle a bit at the stop post to confuse that last switch.

#333 2 years ago

oh, and it'll say last last switch 67 now. i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last...

#334 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Holy cow, those are horrid!
Yeah, get the switches with the rollers - while not technically OEM (I'm not sure why WMS didn't use them.. DE used them everywhere back then!) they work millions times better.

I second this, replace the switches with the roller actuators. Chasing problems isn't worth it and those switches are almost certainly intermittent after what they've been through.

#335 2 years ago

anything else i should check out before i put my order in? i know i need white flipper buttons. it came with chrome ones, that are flaking off.

i picked up yesterday, btw. hola.

-5
#336 2 years ago

To know, you own a machine that was made by the worst criminal known in the pinball history...
How can you play it, let alone own it?

#337 2 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

To know, you own a machine that was made by the worst criminal known in the pinball history...
How can you play it, let alone own it?

Because it was programmed by one of the best pin programmers out there, with the last version done without any input from him.

And don't go bringing the effin' JPop crap here, please. Leave it in the respected threads.

#338 2 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

To know, you own a machine that was made by the worst criminal known in the pinball history...
How can you play it, let alone own it?

Because it's a great pinball machine?

#339 2 years ago

Who programmed it?

#340 2 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

To know, you own a machine that was made by the worst criminal known in the pinball history...
How can you play it, let alone own it?

You own a World Cup Soccer...

#341 2 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

Who programmed it?

Cameron Silver

#342 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

And don't go bringing the effin' JPop crap here, please. Leave it in the respected threads.

Amen!

#343 2 years ago

i temporarily put switch 68 in 66's place and it works flawlessly. i'm going to swap control wires on those 2 and see if i can get this thing working.

#344 2 years ago

damn; no dice. same thing.

i'm telling you, it looks like with enough of a running start the ball jostles up about 1/16" when it hits the stop post. i'm going to concentrate my efforts there for a little.

is it possible i'm flying through the switches too fast? test will say switch 67 was last, but i can roll the ball off 66 and i hear it click back up. so weird.

#345 2 years ago

Replace the switches

#346 2 years ago

Curios - when the ball comes down the highwire ramp, in switch test mode, and the ball 'lifts up' - does switch #66 *STAY ACTIVATED*? It should.

#347 2 years ago

yeah, i hope that's it.

i was able to hold my finger over the ball, so when it came down it wouldn't jump off the post. still didn't work.

those switches are either too sensitive or not sensitive enough.

#348 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Curios - when the ball comes down the highwire ramp, in switch test mode, and the ball 'lifts up' - does switch #66 *STAY ACTIVATED*? It should.

if i let go of the ball just before switch 68, it'll reg all 3, then 66 stays on. if i drop the ball at the top of the ramp, i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last switch; nothing stays on.

#349 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

if i let go of the ball just before switch 68, it'll reg all 3, then 66 stays on. if i drop the ball at the top of the ramp, i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last switch; nothing stays on.

Okay, yeah, I would get new switches first - but keep in mind that even if the ball is 'lifted', it should still activate #66. It's possible that the ball is lifting too much to activate the switch and the top 'guard' should be bent down.

Edit to add: On both CVs I owned, to improve the locking there, I used a huge set of pliers and a towel to bend the top guard down - so the vertical movement was almost nil.

#350 2 years ago

yeah, it's definitely clicking 66 down. even though it's not showing on, if roll the ball up the ramp a bit, i hear the switch unclick. i want my highwire to work! aaah!

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