We are doing a run of these right now. Should be ready in about 3 weeks.

Brought these two into my mini gameroom today. TX came out of my storage, CV came from my work.

Don't they make a great pair?

I know: not really. Different brands and generations and all. Still: two awesome games. I'm thrilled to be able to play them regularly again!
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A-15680 boards have been dispatched to Pinball Life, air express.

Terry should have them in stock next week.

Just installed blackout mod, which allows control of the backbox General Illumination (GI), works great!
When all playfield GI is switched off also the backbox GI will be switched off.

DIY technical description from Matt Masters
http://www.habosarcade.com/Media/AFM/AFM%20GI%20Relay%20by%20Matt%20Masters.zip

Or order a ready made drop in board from:
1. http://mypinballs.com/electronics/gi_blackout.jsp
2. http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=387

Found an old photo of testing one of my custom color neons.
I can't recall off-hand the color. But this was a rich blue. Had purple phosphor, in blue glass, lit by red neon gas. Made a VERY dark, rich violet. THe color was effin' amazing, but it was NOT bright.

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Coyote you have any still laying around I could snag?

Unfortunately no. I had *1* left, up until I moved into the new house back in 2012 - it shattered in move.

I have one SW:EP1 tube left, would have to connect it up to see what color it is.

Eventually, when I get a CV back into my collection, I may start making them again, non-commercially. When I do, I'll drop a note here and let you guys know.

Ok I'm in the club, I picked up this early Chris Hutchins restored CV sample game from a friend this weekend.. the game is stunning!! The clear coat on the playfield looks like glass.. it's the nicest playfield clear coat I have ever seen!
One small issue is that the ringmaster is not registering hits all the time, I am not framiliar with this mech and idea what to check first?

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Looks like one of my custom neons, nice!

Also, I hate to say it, but the center marvel decal is off-center. The 'Visit Ring 3' text should be completely hidden. (However, regardless, it's kinda neat to see if under there..)

Looks like a beauty. The ringmaster has an eddy sensor for hits directly to it (not the two bally hoo target switches), you may be able to adjust the potentiometer on it to make it more consistent. I put the auto eddy board from Pinbits in mine and it made it a lot better but it looks like they're sold out.

I was just reading my CV manual and it looks like the game came with an auto Eddy board originally. My Ringmaster almost always registers hits, but a fast moving ball may sometimes not register.

Sample and early production games had auto boards. Mid run, they switched to the normal board. Not sure why, but that's why there's a setting in the Adjustments to specify whether you have/don't have the auto-adjust board.

Sweet C.V Concrtetehadrt! Congrats!

So I guess I should just order the new Eddy board from pinbits, hopefully they get them back in stock soon

I've never looked at the old board too closely (I'm sure I still have it around somewhere) but I'm guessing it's the same or similar to the ones that used in multiple games. Based on my experience (HUO) with those once they are adjusted right they keep working for a long time so I'd recommend you just adjust the one you have and see if you're good to go for a while.

I will give it a try
I'm going to dig thru the manual and see if I can find an adjustment procedure for the Eddy board.

Copied from another post:

* On the under the playfield eddy sensor control board, turn the potentiometer counter-clockwise until the LED just turns on.
* Now turn the potentiometer back clockwise until the LED just turns off.
That is all that is required to adjust the STNG/ToM/RS eddy sensor. To test the sensor, put the game into WPC diagnostic's first switch test. Then move a pinball over the playfield area where the eddy sensor is located. The switch should activate on display. Also from the bottom of the playfield, the eddy board LED should go ON as a ball passes in front of the eddy board's senssor (this can be seen anytime, the game does not need to be in switch test.)

I'll say. I've had two CVs in my collection in the past. While I don't have one anymore, I will play a virtual pin on my laptop on the ride to/from work sometimes.

I was playing tonight, and happened to get Juggler and RM Frenzy started, with 1 ramp to go before Strike An Arc, and 2 Highwire balls locked.

Did fantastic on the first two multiballs, and was able to slam the ball up the ramp to get the Super Duper Jackpot, and stack the other two multiballs on top of that.

The energy in the game.. gosh, made me really, really miss this game.

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Trying to figure out a highwire lock problem!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-the-best-way-to-fix-this-cirq-highwire-lock-problem

has anyone had an issue where 1 ball gets locked (highwire), it immediately will say ball 2 locked, then dump the only ball there onto the playfield while saying one more for multiball?

all the switches test fine. i thought maybe the 2nd switch is getting held down by the first ball, but that's not the case. either way, that wouldn't release the first ball.

I haven't had the issue but haven't had my machine for more than a few months either. I know those switches are really finicky so if you haven't already checked the switches with the balls try that. I'd be watching to see if it's bouncing back. Or simply one of the switches is flaky and is registering locked ball. I know many people replace them with the roller switches. Either way, bump for the veteran owners of the game that can offer some real help.

No idea about the first ball being registered as ball 2 locked.

Apart from that i suspect you are using 2.0H rom? If so, go into feature adjustments and turn the physical high wire lock (PHYS. H/W LOCKS) on. This will stop the machine from dropping single balls immediately after they are locked.

Also - check both switches on the highwire ramp. (Not the lock ones, the ramp ones, make sure they register correctly as well.)

i've been playing around with them since i quit working. they are pos switches! they have a lot of tension, too. i can place a ball right before each one and it will sit there on the wire ramp. i think i need to bend them to make an apex, and have that point just behind the center of the ball maybe.

actually, these look like they have been "adjusted" a million times. probably beyond the point of return. well, almost. i'll get a pic, so you guys can tell me how jacked up they are.

2.0h; you got it. i'll check that setting.

appreciate the help, guys.

oh, the balls that were in it were magnetized. i had balls sticking to each other on the highwire ramp. i put 4 new ones in.

ball trough was having problems before i replaced the balls. didn't put 2 and 2 together. i had an extra trough shimmy, so that's in there, too.

hw locks were set to "yes", the default.

if i put a ball at the top of the hw ramp and let it drop, it's about 50/50 whether or not the ball keeps the switch registered. sometimes i get switch 66, hw low, to stay on the screen. the other half of the time, it'll just say last switch was 66.

Replace the switches. I found years ago these nice switches with rolling balls on the actuators. I'll see if I can find the link.

Here they are:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=384

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Holy cow, those are horrid!

Yeah, get the switches with the rollers - while not technically OEM (I'm not sure why WMS didn't use them.. DE used them everywhere back then!) they work millions times better.

i might just do that.

i'm consistently not staying on top of that bottom switch from the top of the ramp now. if i let go of the ball right before the 3 switches, it'll keep 66 registered. it's like with enough speed, it'll jostle a bit at the stop post to confuse that last switch.

oh, and it'll say last last switch 67 now. i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last...

I second this, replace the switches with the roller actuators. Chasing problems isn't worth it and those switches are almost certainly intermittent after what they've been through.

anything else i should check out before i put my order in? i know i need white flipper buttons. it came with chrome ones, that are flaking off.

i picked up yesterday, btw. hola.

To know, you own a machine that was made by the worst criminal known in the pinball history...
How can you play it, let alone own it?

Because it was programmed by one of the best pin programmers out there, with the last version done without any input from him.

And don't go bringing the effin' JPop crap here, please. Leave it in the respected threads.

Because it's a great pinball machine?

Who programmed it?

You own a World Cup Soccer...

Cameron Silver

Amen!

i temporarily put switch 68 in 66's place and it works flawlessly. i'm going to swap control wires on those 2 and see if i can get this thing working.

damn; no dice. same thing.

i'm telling you, it looks like with enough of a running start the ball jostles up about 1/16" when it hits the stop post. i'm going to concentrate my efforts there for a little.

is it possible i'm flying through the switches too fast? test will say switch 67 was last, but i can roll the ball off 66 and i hear it click back up. so weird.

Replace the switches

Curios - when the ball comes down the highwire ramp, in switch test mode, and the ball 'lifts up' - does switch #66 *STAY ACTIVATED*? It should.

yeah, i hope that's it.

i was able to hold my finger over the ball, so when it came down it wouldn't jump off the post. still didn't work.

those switches are either too sensitive or not sensitive enough.

if i let go of the ball just before switch 68, it'll reg all 3, then 66 stays on. if i drop the ball at the top of the ramp, i hear 3 switch beeps, but it says 67 was last switch; nothing stays on.

Okay, yeah, I would get new switches first - but keep in mind that even if the ball is 'lifted', it should still activate #66. It's possible that the ball is lifting too much to activate the switch and the top 'guard' should be bent down.

Edit to add: On both CVs I owned, to improve the locking there, I used a huge set of pliers and a towel to bend the top guard down - so the vertical movement was almost nil.

yeah, it's definitely clicking 66 down. even though it's not showing on, if roll the ball up the ramp a bit, i hear the switch unclick. i want my highwire to work! aaah!