Interesting, thanks! I had one person tell me that one of the two at Allentown (apparently, Marco had a couple or more?) was IPB repro. Though, it would make sense they were both Mirco, since IPB repros likely woulda ended up at PPS.

I have a pink version IPB playfield in my CV if you need pics of those juggler inserts.

If you don't mind, sure! You can PM them if folks don't want the thread flooded with pictures.

Friend bought one of those from Allentown, and asked for my thoughts on it - when I had my CV, no repros were available, so I admit that I have no direct experience telling the two apart. It's definitely a repro, just now am curious if there are any tells to tell them apart. Heh.

appreciate the kind words!

my cv when purchased had real nice cabinet decals, but the backbox decals did not look nice, they were peeling off at the edges and a previous owner had tried to fix the edges with transparent tape. I finally got around to replacing the backbox decals only to discover that tape had been used to afix a fair amount to hold the decals on. While on the one hand I was surprised at this show of laziness, on the other hand it was fairly easy to remove most of the decal and I was able to salvage some of the decal to make this picture. My granddaughter, however, does not like this picture so I have to remove it from the wall when she is visiting.

IMG_9871 (resized).jpeg

Has someone bought the CV V2 Backglass from PPS and can show me pictures.
I just want to know if this is any good or miles away from the original.
Mine has scratches on the back but it is ‚fine‘.
Would like to make my CV perfect, as i love this pin

Hi all, will be joining the club real soon.

I bought a decent CV a few months ago and had it sent straight to Scott Seedsman for a playfiled swap and freshen up.

Seemed there was more involved than i thought as he had to print new subways and fix a whole lot of broken brackets etc.
He said it had been heavily routed at some stage which he thought was pretty unusual here.

Should be here in the next week or two. I'm looking forward to it, and to getting my Sunset Riders back off him after that.

Hi CV people. Does anyone know which fuse is assigned to the neon transformer? My bulb went out, and I tried a backup with no luck. Before I try my new transformer, I want to check for a simple blown fuse.

Thanks!

I think is “ secondary solenoid “ Good luck.

The LM339 that drives it can fail too.

And now it’s working. So who knows. A loose connection maybe? I did swap the bulbs. But the new one didn’t come on right away. Time will tell.

IMG_2403 (resized).jpeg

I did have something like your problem in mine. It was the connection between the transformer and neon.

Love the color of that tube!

Got er in.

cv2 (resized).jpg

Is that chrome t molding? Sharp

This game has the strangest inlanes and outlanes and a plastic ball that alters the ball’s path, but I never feel like the game is a drain monster or has hungry outlanes. I wonder if others feel differently. Mine is set up pretty easy.

needs one of these
CV (resized).jpg

I also put cointaker leds in the backbox it has flashers in it which look great

I've run out of stainless shooter rods. I'd have to take one out of another machine.

TWD next to it has one, as does Tron....nah...

cv3 (resized).jpg

Leaving the club after 2 years, and I’m really gonna miss this one. No other pin out there gets confused for CV, especially with those scrolls and that green and purple cabinet. I’m a Jpop fan, and I have always felt CV was so underrated. It’s not the most difficult pin, but they don’t all have to be hard. I enjoyed being able to join the circus every few games, and that 4-stage wizard mode is one of the best, imho. Quirky, imaginative and original. Very happy to have owned a ringmaster for awhile!

Thank you for producing this. Just ordered. I’d probably buy one with the enlarged speaker hole as well. Can you get some of the wider back glass trim remade for this too? It’s sold out everywhere for quite some time.

I’d like one with large speaker holes please

We are working on the trim ...

We will create the large speaker hole version as well shortly ...

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/bottom-lift-channel-suit-c-v/

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/side-moulding-suit-c-v/

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/top-moulding-suit-c-v/

How bout them scrolls?

Another vote for scrolls...

And another, as long as they aren’t gold covered in plastic

It’s safe to say we’ll take them, made out of anything at this stage as long as they look the part

The modified version with 2 large speaker holes is now available

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-03-9696XL

Team PPS

Anyone know if there is a coin op version of the home rom?

CV plastics and ramps for sale

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/162744

This is great !

May anyone from Europe order these on your website ? Including bakcglass ?

May someone advise me any replacement speakers set for Cirqus Voltaire with this new 2 large speaker holes insert body (white tub) ?

After almost 2 years of looking, I finally found an original set of scrolls.

20230817_144435 (resized).jpg

Does anyone have any recommendations on repairing random switch failures?

My CV complains of switch failures on startup, but when testing them they all test and function perfectly fine.
I originally thought maybe replacing all the electrolytics would fix it, but i guess not.

Help!

Put the game in play and use the switches (all of them). Computer send that cod e when a switch hasn’t been use in I guess 50 plays.

Do you mean - every time you power up, regardless of how long the game has been off, you always get a complaint of bad switches? Or are you saying whenever a switch shows up as bad they always test good when you check them?

Testing them with your finger isn't an accurate way to test the switches because typically you move the switch farther than the ball would in play. You should start by testing with a ball and adjust if necessary. Switches tend to go bad slowly, as they age they become intermittent, and sometimes you spend less time overall by just replacing switches once the game starts complaining about them a few times.

He means if a switch hasn't been activated for a while it will show up as check switch. Activating it during play will sort it out if that is the case.

Hi all.
I’ve enjoyed my CV for almost a year no, been fixing it a little at a time.
This time I wanted to get the neon fully working.
Before it could sometimes light up fully but most of the times just half.
Took it off and realized someone butchered the wiring and it was all loose. Fixed that with new wires and Molex connectors and… now I have half on full time.

What could be the issue on hand? Power supply or neon tube itself?
IMG_4666 (resized).jpeg

One end of the tube (... the dark end) is not getting power. Your wires became disconnected somewhere.

There is no polarity - two wires out of the transformer, one wire to either end of the tube.

All of my games have speaker lights except for CV. Has anyone figured out how to install them in this game.

20231018_192729 (resized).jpg

Rare part found:

ebay.com link: itm

metal guide assembly #2 A-21817 NOS

IMG_3565 (resized).jpeg

Isn’t this the same part?

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/04-10894-388.html

The metal piece that holds the BNOD is unobtainium and doesn't appear to be on the one from PSP.

Awesome. I'll absolutely buy one with full size speaker holes. Itching for an audio upgrade and that design makes it a PITA

Do you mean this metal piece?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/161098

Gord

Yep, I didn't know anyone was reproducing it.

Guys, learn to cut and Bend metal!
That piece is $50!!! Should be $.50!!!
Seriously, buy a vise and some stainless stock instead

i am trying to figure out a similar issue to the one you guys were talking about a few month back... i get those half trough kicker hit on my CV and can't figure out what is causing it... i went through most of the usual steps, i don't have trough board or 7 opto board on hands but i reflow and cleaned them... check other switches, diodes, etc...
Any other known source for those half kick?

Almost sounds like a weak connection in a connector