(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Cirqus!" - Cirqus Voltaire Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

8 years ago


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  • 1,865 posts
  • 237 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by SuperMas77
  • Topic is favorited by 128 Pinsiders

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There are 1,865 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 38.
#1801 5 months ago
Quoted from colocole:

Do you know if still available?
General recommendations if it is good/bad to add it? Thanks

It so happens that we get balls stuck in that back right corner every now & then. Not super often, but often enough to be a nuisance.

I decided to tackle it today. It appeared that the ball was stuck to the right of the yellow flasher dome, trapped by the ramp switch wires (the switch just before the magnet) that drape across towards the right before they sink through the plastic cover & through the PF.
So, I rerouted that pair of wires & tidied up the neon transformer wires & highwire magnet wires. I put tape over the large hole in the plastic cover for good measure.

That should cover it, right?

WRONG!

I placed a ball there & it immediately got stuck. The ball is being stopped by contacting the underside of the highwire mini PF, *not* by wires.

Then I remembered that I had both SB kits & had previously installed some of the features.

There was the bracket! Definitely going with Bally's fix.

The instructions indicate cutting out the bottom right corner of the DMD plastic frame, then slipping this bracket behind the plastic. That's why I never put this in before--I didn't want to cut that plastic at the time.

Still not going to cut the plastic. I'd previously thought that this trimming was to clear the highwire PF.
Nope, the plastic needs to be cut if you install this bracket behind the plastic--the bracket's bottom arm needs to angle down at 7:00, where it will interfere with the DMD plastic frame.

I ended up doing the same thing shown in your previous post's picture. Not the prettiest, but much of that SB bracket shows anyway. The bracket definitely fills in the gap where the ball can enter into the trap zone. I *suppose* it's possible that it could enter from the right side, but it would have to magically bounce up from the right orbit to do so.

Maybe in the future I'll give a little thought to making it more elegant.
a) Make a sticker that looks like the DMD plastic frame art & put it on the bracket's tab.
b) Maybe the bracket can be ground a bit to not interfere with the plastic & instead hug around the front of it.

Thanks for posting that picture at the right time, which jogged my memory & helped motivate me.
-Jason

Added 178 days ago:

[redo below--I had many an error]

#1802 5 months ago

Any tips on the easiest way to change the bulb under the right side, purple lightning bolt?

IMG_20220220_152804 (resized).jpgIMG_20220220_152820 (resized).jpgIMG_20220220_153031 (resized).jpg
#1803 5 months ago
Quoted from d0n:

Any tips on the easiest way to change the bulb under the right side, purple lightning bolt?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty sure i pulled the subway to get better access, can’t recall if i just needed to remove screws and shift it to the side or if i took the whole thing out.

#1804 5 months ago

When I needed to change one of those bulbs, I took the whole thing apart. I also changed all of them and made sure they all worked before re-assembling.

#1805 5 months ago
Quoted from avspin:

When I needed to change one of those bulbs, I took the whole thing apart. I also changed all of them and made sure they all worked before re-assembling.

Yes - PITA to get to those. Put purple LED's in there, and the WOW targets while you're in the neighborhood.

#1806 5 months ago
Quoted from colocole:

Do you know if still available?
General recommendations if it is good/bad to add it? Thanks

It so happens that we get balls stuck in that back right corner every now & then. Not super often, but often enough to be a nuisance.

I decided to tackle it today. It appeared that the ball was stuck to the right of the yellow flasher dome, trapped by the ramp switch wires (the switch just before the magnet) that drape across towards the right before they sink through the plastic cover & through the PF.
So, I rerouted that pair of wires & tidied up the neon transformer wires & highwire magnet wires. I put tape over the large hole in the plastic cover for good measure.

That should cover it, right?

WRONG!

I placed a ball there & it immediately got stuck. The ball is being stopped by contacting the underside of the highwire mini PF, *not* by wires.

Then I remembered that I had both SB kits & had previously installed some of the features.

There was the bracket! Definitely going with Bally's fix.

The instructions indicate cutting out the bottom right corner of the DMD plastic frame, then slipping this bracket behind the plastic. That's why I never put this in before--I didn't want to cut that plastic at the time, & I thought (incorrectly) that cutting the plastic was a necessity for installing this bracket.

You can add the bracket behind the plastic if you first sandwich the bracket & plastic & then place them both over the threaded stud.

So, in summary, I do recommend putting on the bracket--easy & effective solution to a moderate nuisance.

Thanks for posting that picture at the right time, which jogged my memory & helped motivate me.
-Jason

PXL_20220222_010305367 (resized).jpgPXL_20220222_010311223 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1807 5 months ago

Can somehow please
Post a photo of the blue Snubber rubber and how it’s placed with the metal part? I have them both with a tiny screw that fits but isn’t long enough. I’m not sure exactly how this all needs to fit. Thanks!

#1808 5 months ago
Quoted from ADNO:

Hi, I have a problem with the Boom Balloon, it doesn't always go down. sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few minutes but most of the time only when i unlock it manually. Does anyone have an idea where I should look for this problem?
[quoted image]

It's coil driven, check to make sure you have free movement, otherwise you may have mushrooming on the plunger causing binding...easily fixed with a grinder...of course, you will have to disassemble the assembly...replace the coil sleeve while you are at it.

#1809 5 months ago

Picked up a gorgeous NOS CV playfield that was clear coated about 8 years at the Louisville Expo this weekend. No ghosting, super smooth. Can't wait to start this restore.

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#1810 5 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Picked up a gorgeous NOS CV playfield that was clear coated about 8 years at the Louisville Expo this weekend. No ghosting, super smooth. Can't wait to start this restore.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WOW

#1811 5 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Picked up a gorgeous NOS CV playfield that was clear coated about 8 years at the Louisville Expo this weekend. No ghosting, super smooth. Can't wait to start this restore.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I hope you enjoy it, I was almost not going to let it go and just keep it on the wall...it is an absolutely Beautiful survivor...which is why I was I was so apprehensive about drilling/installing it...I just couldn't do it. I have no doubt it will look amazing in your CV...good luck with the restore.

#1812 5 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Can somehow please
Post a photo of the blue Snubber rubber and how it’s placed with the metal part? I have them both with a tiny screw that fits but isn’t long enough. I’m not sure exactly how this all needs to fit. Thanks!

There a quite a few of them in the image gallery for this topic but beware because some of them are incorrect, use the reversed part from MB, etc. This one appears to be correct EXCEPT it does not have the same screw that WMS did. https://imgproxy.pinside.com/lymJWdmHV-f08Brha2hWR5nCiiN1NAHpmZJx6xNrOz8/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzYvYzAvMjcvNmMwMjdlNTY1OTliY2VhYzdhMDNiYTcxZjNlNWI0YTFhNDc2ZDA2Mi5qcGc

#1813 5 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Picked up a gorgeous NOS CV playfield that was clear coated about 8 years at the Louisville Expo this weekend. No ghosting, super smooth. Can't wait to start this restore.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful playfield. Do you have the cabinet for it already? Is it original or will you do new decals or Radcals? I went with Radcals and they turned out great. Can’t wait to see yours finished!

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#1814 5 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

use the reversed part from MB, etc.

Out of curiosity, How have folks been using that part, are they drilling a 2nd hole in the CV ball guide (on the "bottom") and using the MB part?

#1815 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Beautiful playfield. Do you have the cabinet for it already? Is it original or will you do new decals or Radcals? I went with Radcals and they turned out great. Can’t wait to see yours finished!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Your looks great also.
I'm on the fence still on the Radcals, my lower cab is great but the head could use some new decals. I did Radcals in my Totan so it will look good together with Radcals. More than likely I will do it also.

#1816 5 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

I did Radcals in my Totan so it will look good together with Radcals. More than likely I will do it also.

Very nice, I also put Radcals on my TOTAN and just placed my CV next to it. They do seem like “cousins” being jpops.

#1817 5 months ago

What was the inspiration for this particular theme? Cirque du Soleil? My guess would be in the affirmative, but I am not sure where the whole Ringmaster thing fits in the picture. Is the Ringmaster schtick a part of the Cirque du Soleil?

1 week later
#1818 4 months ago
Quoted from gandamack:

What was the inspiration for this particular theme? Cirque du Soleil? My guess would be in the affirmative, but I am not sure where the whole Ringmaster thing fits in the picture. Is the Ringmaster schtick a part of the Cirque du Soleil?

it's my understanding that bally wanted to target the french and european market and went with the CV name.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/games/cirqus/history.html

1 week later
#1819 4 months ago

If anyone is interested here is my Cirqus Voltaire restoration. Did alot of custom work to this game. So here is some of of the things that has been done, new cabinet, playfield has been restored and clear coated, 99% of all metal pieces have been powered coated, all hardware, wires have been cleaned/polished, lighted apron, rebuilt all mechs, new plastics, color dmd, lighted ramp, lighted ring master eyes, all leds, real bell in backbox, crome plated shooter rod and leg bolts, pdi glass, and more, going to add a pinshaker kit, and subwoofer.

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#1820 4 months ago

Video walk around

#1821 4 months ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Video walk around

Beautiful restoration! Where did you get that apron?

#1822 4 months ago

Pinball decals sell it but I lit it up differently. I used a 12v strip of leds under the apron with a custom cardboard cutout to trap the light in.

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4 weeks later
#1823 3 months ago

Hey just wondering if anyone has had any experience with installing a bigger speaker on the right hand side with the plastic CV panel. I have a hole saw jig that I have used on other WPC games so I can install a bigger speaker like I've done on my TZ.

Was also going to then install a speaker light kit!?!

Any thought Peeps?

Cheers 05

#1824 3 months ago

Well folks, at someone's request, I changed the name of the club to include the Q!

Hopefully, that improves the flow of traffic here.

BTW, most gorgeous game ever. Discuss....

#1825 3 months ago
Quoted from Dbaum88:

Well folks, at someone's request, I changed the name of the club to include the Q!
Hopefully, that improves the flow of traffic here.
BTW, most gorgeous game ever. Discuss....

These days, it certainly should!

#1826 3 months ago

I’m looking for a set of backbox scrolls. Willing to pay up if you have a set avail. Message me if you want to make some $$

Thx
Pete

#1827 3 months ago
Quoted from petebest:

I’m looking for a set of backbox scrolls. Willing to pay up if you have a set avail. Message me if you want to make some $$
Thx
Pete

I heard they're going to be remade. I've been looking for 6 months.

1 week later
#1829 81 days ago

Awesome ... really looks like you guys have set up a great machine.....

#1830 79 days ago

So I’m officially in the club. My love for jpop games is in full force, completing the three I was looking for. Such a gorgeous unique playing game. Still one of the best original theme songs ever.

Question on the flipper position. Should they rest on the dot below or above? I have a feeling mine are a little too high. See the pic below.

Edit - I ended up moving the left flipper down a little and installed new flipper bat and it plays much better.

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#1831 79 days ago

Edit - all good.

Realized that the plug for the post in the back wasn’t connected and therefore no sideshow was occurring since the ball was allowed to go all around

#1832 78 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I’m officially in the club. My love for jpop games is in full force, completing the three I was looking for. Such a gorgeous unique playing game. Still one of the best original theme songs ever.
Question on the flipper position. Should they rest on the dot below or above? I have a feeling mine are a little too high. See the pic below.
Edit - I ended up moving the left flipper down a little and installed new flipper bat and it plays much better.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice CV! These are getting harder to find in excellent condition. Expensive too. I redid mine last year with Radcals and chrome. She’s a beauty, right next to TOTAN. I love the feel of Jpop games. TOM is a masterpiece too. Just a fun, accessible pin to walk up to and play. Did you join the circus yet on CV?

#1833 77 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Nice CV! These are getting harder to find in excellent condition. Expensive too. I redid mine last year with Radcals and chrome. She’s a beauty, right next to TOTAN. I love the feel of Jpop games. TOM is a masterpiece too. Just a fun, accessible pin to walk up to and play. Did you join the circus yet on CV?

Thanks! Yeah I’m really enjoying it. Haven’t reached JTC yet.

What I still don’t understand is the backbox. I understand it’s random but what is the objective? The ball should go through that switch? How exactly does that work? Always was confusing

#1834 76 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks! Yeah I’m really enjoying it. Haven’t reached JTC yet.
What I still don’t understand is the backbox. I understand it’s random but what is the objective? The ball should go through that switch? How exactly does that work? Always was confusing

Right, the switch awards 250k points I believe. And it’s also theatrical and interactive because it makes a loud bell ringing sound during a couple modes and when the boom balloon is triggered. Part of the showmanship circus theme I suppose. Mine has the metal bell installed, which is cool.

#1835 76 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Right, the switch awards 250k points I believe. And it’s also theatrical and interactive because it makes a loud bell ringing sound during a couple modes and when the boom balloon is triggered. Part of the showmanship circus theme I suppose. Mine has the metal bell installed, which is cool.

Funny you mentioned the metal bell b/c I believe I have the same metal one installed on mine and was like wow, I thought they removed this from the game, which it sounds like they did but the previous owner installed it. Sounds great.

I think you said it best when I reached out to you earlier about ToM or one of Jpops other games. I have a larger collection and it's nice to walk up to a game and be able to potentially get far without spending two hours with it. There is something about these three that are just so special compared to other games. I know the code isn't super deep but it's deep enough for me and the presentation, art and most importantly, old school pinball magic, is so above the others (including new games like Godzilla) that I'm really happy to have them.

If I had to rank right now, I would say ToM, CV then TOTAN for me.

#1836 76 days ago

How often does your game hit the right backbox switch, my game ends up with a switch error after a couple games becouse the ball never ends up going down the right side. Thinking about adding another post to give it a better chance. I have to manually trigger the switch to remove the credit dot.

#1837 76 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

How often does your game hit the right backbox switch, my game ends up with a switch error after a couple games becouse the ball never ends up going down the right side. Thinking about adding another post to give it a better chance. I have to manually trigger the switch to remove the credit dot.

Mine does the same. I feel like it is rare. Does the game alert you with a noise if it does?

Edit - just played a game and it hit 6 plus times so maybe it does go off more than I thought. Dmd said 250 and I think there was a little sound

2 weeks later
#1838 56 days ago

Anybody looking to join the Cirqus? I'm looking to resign.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/137822

Thanks,
-Jason

#1839 53 days ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I heard they're going to be remade. I've been looking for 6 months.

Yess me too!
i ve heard that chicago gaming wants to remake
CV

#1840 49 days ago

Anyone have a link to a fix for the first locked ball moving back up the wireform so machine doesn't think there's a ball there? Replace the lock switches, bend the switch metal actuator, etc? Any assistance greatly appreciated!

#1841 49 days ago
Quoted from colocole:

Anyone have a link to a fix for the first locked ball moving back up the wireform so machine doesn't think there's a ball there? Replace the lock switches, bend the swi

Hi. For me worked using an small spacer for the micro switch. Good luck

#1842 49 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

If anyone is interested here is my Cirqus Voltaire restoration. Did alot of custom work to this game. So here is some of of the things that has been done, new cabinet, playfield has been restored and clear coated, 99% of all metal pieces have been powered coated, all hardware, wires have been cleaned/polished, lighted apron, rebuilt all mechs, new plastics, color dmd, lighted ramp, lighted ring master eyes, all leds, real bell in backbox, crome plated shooter rod and leg bolts, pdi glass, and more, going to add a pinshaker kit, and subwoofer.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#1844 44 days ago

Hi,

I'm having a couple of problems with my Cirqus Voltaire. Right now I have two errors:

1. "Top eddy is not working" (the auto eddy board is not registering hits). I tested the connection on the borad and it is getting 12 volts. The switch matrix registers when I unplug and plug it back in, but nothing else happens with it. Is there anything else I can check to possibly test/repair the board?

I know before you could get a replacement from pinbits, but that doesn't seem to be an option now. I've looked at the Steady Eddy board, but that seems to be sold out at the moment too.

2. I also have "No Rev. Motion" on the ringmaster motor. When I run the ringmaster test, There is a dot in one circle when I press the minus button, but there are dots in both circles when I press the plus button. An uneducated guess might be that a diode has died? Causing one direction to always win? But I'd be glad to hear other opinions before I start investigating more.

All this happened after the right slingshot coil got stuck on. I repaired that and I wouldn't put it past me that I missed something when the power driver board was re-atteched, but I'm also willing to entertain the thought that 20+ year old electronics may decide that now is the time to retire on their own (or just me being clumsy).

Any suggestions from the club would be appreciated.

#1845 44 days ago
Quoted from NorwegianRockCat:

Hi,
I'm having a couple of problems with my Cirqus Voltaire. Right now I have two errors:
1. "Top eddy is not working" (the auto eddy board is not registering hits). I tested the connection on the borad and it is getting 12 volts. The switch matrix registers when I unplug and plug it back in, but nothing else happens with it. Is there anything else I can check to possibly test/repair the board?
I know before you could get a replacement from pinbits, but that doesn't seem to be an option now. I've looked at the Steady Eddy board, but that seems to be sold out at the moment too.
2. I also have "No Rev. Motion" on the ringmaster motor. When I run the ringmaster test, There is a dot in one circle when I press the minus button, but there are dots in both circles when I press the plus button. An uneducated guess might be that a diode has died? Causing one direction to always win? But I'd be glad to hear other opinions before I start investigating more.
All this happened after the right slingshot coil got stuck on. I repaired that and I wouldn't put it past me that I missed something when the power driver board was re-atteched, but I'm also willing to entertain the thought that 20+ year old electronics may decide that now is the time to retire on their own (or just me being clumsy).
Any suggestions from the club would be appreciated.

I know a company called Tangles made a smart Eddy board that was self-correcting, and could be used on Scared Stiff and other pins, but I’m not sure about CV. Many boards are simply very hard to find right now with limited supplies. Does anyone know if the smart Eddy board will work in CV? I have one in my SS, I could try it in my CV and find out.

F75F37D2-31D9-48F8-B31A-856EE108A7BD (resized).png
#1846 44 days ago
Quoted from NorwegianRockCat:

I'm having a couple of problems with my Cirqus Voltaire. Right now I have two errors:
1. "Top eddy is not working" (the auto eddy board is not registering hits). I tested the connection on the borad and it is getting 12 volts. The switch matrix registers when I unplug and plug it back in, but nothing else happens with it. Is there anything else I can check to possibly test/repair the board?
I know before you could get a replacement from pinbits, but that doesn't seem to be an option now. I've looked at the Steady Eddy board, but that seems to be sold out at the

Hi. The eddy board has an small Phillips screw to adjust sensitivity. Try it first. If not you’ll have to replace it. Normally adjusting it will work again. Good luck

#1847 44 days ago
Quoted from stef34:

i ve heard that chicago gaming wants to remake

As long as it took them to remake CC, It would be the 12th of never...

#1848 43 days ago
Quoted from Santis:

Hi. The eddy board has an small Phillips screw to adjust sensitivity. Try it first. If not you’ll have to replace it. Normally adjusting it will work again. Good luck

Mine is the auto-eddy board, which doesn’t have any adjustment, but I’ll look anyway. Pinkitten, if you could try your board in your CV, that would be nice. I’m sure others are curios also. I know in the home ROM there is an option to use a non-auto eddy board that might have to be switched as well.

#1849 43 days ago
Quoted from NorwegianRockCat:

Mine is the auto-eddy board, which doesn’t have any adjustment, but I’ll look anyway. Pinkitten, if you could try your board in your CV, that would be nice. I’m sure others are curios also. I know in the home ROM there is an option to use a non-auto eddy board that might have to be switched as well.

I’m happy to try the smart Eddy board in my CV. I’ll have time in the next couple days.

#1850 43 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I’m happy to try the smart Eddy board in my CV. I’ll have time in the next couple days.

Great! Thank you. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. It might be worthwhile to have as a backup part. I'll see if the adjustment trick works in the next couple days too and report back.

Now, just need to figure out the motor issue…

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