(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,778 posts
  • 223 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by in2kiss
  • Topic is favorited by 120 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

afe25565ebf538fa50cee9770bcb7cdd0b2690b9 (resized).jpg
0c010f480348409dfae901121543a765b1c07384 (resized).jpg
DAC37614-2A2E-4316-A37A-142FB080DF16 (resized).jpeg
271749839_10225500393991246_4622177903507025858_n (resized).jpg
CVP (resized).jpg
cv_scrolls (resized).png
2DA561A7-0121-44F8-AA36-989F59E69AA6 (resized).jpeg
78147044-CB7D-4560-98B4-28C0E3C59FFB (resized).jpeg
845D0DF8-372F-45F8-8FD4-7F5B59391CC0 (resized).jpeg
01315D15-218C-4456-9B28-AB0FCB74E09B (resized).jpeg
20220111_171753 (resized).jpg
20220111_171636 (resized).jpg
20220111_171559 (resized).jpg
C68A818F-1FAE-41F3-B7FD-D7267C87E395 (resized).png
20220106_181449 (resized).jpg
20220106_165209 (resized).jpg

There are 1,778 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 36.
#1651 54 days ago

Has anyone disassembled and reassembled the ringmaster to replace the spring coil bracket? They are available again and I would like to replace mine. Just looking for any tips or pointers before I begin. I assume I need to work from the bottom of the assembly up?

FEA97C75-680E-4B13-A87F-E19F9ECD87E2 (resized).jpeg
#1652 54 days ago

I took the entire mechanism apart and recall it being a pain to get back together. I also had to bend the spring with some significant force to get it to align back up.

Why do you want to change it?

Good luck!

#1653 54 days ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I took the entire mechanism apart and recall it being a pain to get back together. I also had to bend the spring with some significant force to get it to align back up.
Why do you want to change it?
Good luck!

Thanks, it does look fairly complicated in the owners manual to take apart. I wanted to replace the coil base under the ringmaster’s neck due to some corrosion and dents from years of play. I also have a chrome plated version of the metal “bowl” which catches the ball under the ringmaster to install.

#1654 53 days ago

Cool, that is the sane reason I replaced mine. The mirrored bowl looks great in the game!

#1655 52 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks, it does look fairly complicated in the owners manual to take apart. I wanted to replace the coil base under the ringmaster’s neck due to some corrosion and dents from years of play. I also have a chrome plated version of the metal “bowl” which catches the ball under the ringmaster to install.

It is a bit of a pain, I did the same thing with the mirrored finish bowl and IIRC getting the wires for the magnet and flashers routed and secured properly was a tedious task. I always find getting the ringmaster to fit back properly a major pain too so I put in LED flashers (mild ones, not the crazy super-bright ones) so I won't have to take it apart again to replace them.

#1656 52 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It is a bit of a pain, I did the same thing with the mirrored finish bowl and IIRC getting the wires for the magnet and flashers routed and secured properly was a tedious task. I always find getting the ringmaster to fit back properly a major pain too so I put in LED flashers (mild ones, not the crazy super-bright ones) so I won't have to take it apart again to replace them.

Good idea. I’m hesitant to even undertake this project because I’ve been through these before, where you start removing a mech for a “simple” upgrade then 3 hours later find yourself surrounded by parts and scanning cell phone images to recall what goes where.

#1657 50 days ago

Original board has some battery leak. In the meantime I purchased a new board. Think I hooked it up right. Would anyone know why only the neon light turns on, together with the board leds, but nothing else? Do I need to change the dipsw “code” or leave as is? I tried coding it like the original, and also tried leaving them all off but it has made no difference. Any help is greatly appreciated. Have had this game for exactly a yearNow but have yet to try switching on until today.

941B709C-F44B-4C52-AAAD-054D571D71EA (resized).jpeg95A20E66-321A-49AA-9952-15DAEEAE8E37 (resized).jpeg9C1A1F19-6AD8-4F04-980B-87DB9B783526 (resized).jpeg
#1658 50 days ago

Looks like the CPU is upside down

#1659 50 days ago

This one?

4A7A0193-D682-4E90-8817-6EC3F9A48162 (resized).jpeg
#1660 49 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Looks like the CPU is upside down

Spot on! Thank you. Now that it turns on, time to get to work. New ramps, replace lights, and then find out what else is wrong

#1661 49 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

This one?
[quoted image]

If it wasn’t for your question I would have also had to ask. So you helped too.
Forgot to match the little mark on one side of the chip to the mark on the housing.

#1662 49 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Looks like the CPU is upside down

Good eye!

#1663 49 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

If it wasn’t for your question I would have also had to ask. So you helped too.
Forgot to match the little mark on one side of the chip to the mark on the housing.

I had to ask because I’ve made that mistake before myself, and wasn’t sure if that was the CPU. I installed an NVRAM chip upside down in my LOTR a year or so ago. Turned it on and the game didn’t boot correctly, and then I smelled a burning, electrical smell. I flipped it off within 3-5 seconds and pulled the hot chip out. It cooled off and worked fine ever since once installed correctly. I was very lucky, but was really ticked at myself. Good luck with your project. I have been restoring and upgrading my CV for weeks now. I’m a huge CV and JPop fan.

#1664 48 days ago

I recently joined the CV club, with a sample machine. The one infuriating thing about it is that when trying to lift the playfield up, the underside of the ringmaster assembly just barely catches the speaker. You have to lift the playfield from the back to get it up over the speaker, and then it can raise easily.

I'm wondering if perhaps the bracket/assembly for the ringmaster was redesigned in later models so this didn't happen?

Any suggestions for how to deal with this? (The speaker is original BTW). Is there perhaps a more low profile replacement speaker that exists?

#1665 48 days ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I recently joined the CV club, with a sample machine. The one infuriating thing about it is that when trying to lift the playfield up, the underside of the ringmaster assembly just barely catches the speaker. You have to lift the playfield from the back to get it up over the speaker, and then it can raise easily.
I'm wondering if perhaps the bracket/assembly for the ringmaster was redesigned in later models so this didn't happen?
Any suggestions for how to deal with this? (The speaker is original BTW). Is there perhaps a more low profile replacement speaker that exists?

I have a later run sample machine and mind does the exact same thing. I just try to teter-totter it over the speaker. Doesn't seem to be doing any damage.

#1666 48 days ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

the underside of the ringmaster assembly just barely catches the speaker.

I learned the hard way about this when I got my CV. I replaced the speaker with an upgrade that sat higher than the stock speaker. I attempted to lower the pf back down and it made contact with the speaker, scraping the top. I had to go back to the stock speaker for now. That ringmaster assembly housing is quite large.

#1667 47 days ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I recently joined the CV club, with a sample machine. The one infuriating thing about it is that when trying to lift the playfield up, the underside of the ringmaster assembly just barely catches the speaker. You have to lift the playfield from the back to get it up over the speaker, and then it can raise easily.
I'm wondering if perhaps the bracket/assembly for the ringmaster was redesigned in later models so this didn't happen?
Any suggestions for how to deal with this? (The speaker is original BTW). Is there perhaps a more low profile replacement speaker that exists?

Have you tried adjusting the bolt that sticks out the bottom for the lowest height adjustment of the RM? I think that's what actually hits and IIRC from completely dissembling and adjusting switches, several times it's not really necessary.

#1668 47 days ago

Does anybody know where this connector goes or is even used? It comes off one of the gi bulbs.

20211210_185717 (resized).jpg20211210_185907 (resized).jpg
#1669 47 days ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Does anybody know where this connector goes or is even used? It comes off one of the gi bulbs.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty sure it goes to a bulb under the apron.

#1670 43 days ago

Anyone have experience with these blades? As far as installation, durability, and of course the WOW factor?
Haven’t been able to find anything else, and these look pretty neat. Are they High res or pixelated ?
Thanks
https://pinballpro.net/shop/cirqus-voltaire-pinball-art-blades/

#1671 43 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Anyone have experience with these blades? As far as installation, durability, and of course the WOW factor?
Haven’t been able to find anything else, and these look pretty neat. Are they High res or pixelated ?
Thanks
https://pinballpro.net/shop/cirqus-voltaire-pinball-art-blades/

Those are the Tilt blades for CV, which are pretty common on this pin. I have a set on my CV. Tilt are my personal favorite art blades. They are extremely thick and durable, and adhere very well. Great quality!

#1672 43 days ago

Those look identical to the ones I purchased from modfatherpinball. I have been very happy with them.

#1673 41 days ago
Quoted from Goonie:

I have a later run sample machine and mind does the exact same thing. I just try to teter-totter it over the speaker. Doesn't seem to be doing any damage.

This machine is used in an arcade environment and with multiple arcade attendants and it's really hard to remember to lift the playfield high enough to clear the speaker (myself included). The RM mech has been partiality ripped off the underside of the playfield multiple times. I've suggested to Ryan (the originator of this particular subtopic, who is currently unavailable) about moving the speaker either forward or backwards. But now I'm thinking just hanging a brightly colored sign on a string attached to the underside of the playfield that pops out as the playfield is lifted to remind people about it.

#1674 38 days ago

I joined the circus a couple of weeks ago, it's still at the place I purchased it, as I have to get a project that's done do it's owner (Golden Tee) and then I'll have room in my garage. So far I've been going in to "Visit" my machine and start shopping it out... If anybody has any Scrolls that they had as a spare, or want to sell, please PM me.

20211126_144548 (resized).jpg20211126_144554 (resized).jpg20211126_144557 (resized).jpg20211126_144603 (resized).jpg20211126_144607 (resized).jpg20211126_165648 (resized).jpg20211126_165654 (resized).jpg20211126_165659 (resized).jpg20211126_165704 (resized).jpg20211126_165709 (resized).jpg20211126_165714 (resized).jpg20211126_165720 (resized).jpg20211129_170101 (resized).jpg
#1675 37 days ago

what would be the best rom to get for a CV at home? I noticed the one im working on has 1.0 (!!)
Thanks

#1676 37 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

what would be the best rom to get for a CV at home? I noticed the one im working on has 1.0 (!!)
Thanks

2.0 home rom.

#1677 36 days ago

Does anyone have a picture of the underneath of the apron, just wondering where that connector connects to under the apron if there is some kind of bulb.

Thanks

#1678 36 days ago

Almost had to deal with disaster, when I looked at it at first I guess I didn't see this, thankfully I checked it as soon as I got it home... Cleaned the corrosion with Isopropyl alcohol, then White Vinegar, and finally re-flowed the pin that was affected, nothing else got any on it...

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1679 31 days ago

Could anyone help me find the part number/marcos for the item named “lift spring” in the photo? I can’t see it in the manual and I want to make sure I get the correct one. Thanks

7D495986-D464-45BC-9D98-B8C0AC78BBAC (resized).jpeg
#1680 29 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Could anyone help me find the part number/marcos for the item named “lift spring” in the photo? I can’t see it in the manual and I want to make sure I get the correct one.

looks like in the manual it's #5 in the diagram on page 2-27 (yeah, the pic doesn't make it all that obvious.)

standard jet/pop bumper spring, #10-517.

#1681 28 days ago
Quoted from mc300baud:

looks like in the manual it's #5 in the diagram on page 2-27 (yeah, the pic doesn't make it all that obvious.)
standard jet/pop bumper spring, #10-517.

Thank you! The current one in the game is finiiiished. Couldn’t figure out just by comparing to a new one

#1682 28 days ago

Next im not sure regarding Part number for this carriage bolt there are so many sizes and lengths. Which would be the correct
One for front of cabinet? Since the other three don’t look great either I’ll just replace all Four if I’m Putting a new Order together.
Cheers

567C76BA-AE64-4F1C-8EF5-F8A0293BBB29 (resized).jpeg

#1683 28 days ago

And just one more for today - Where can I find the metal piece on the other side (right) of the blue rubber? Is there a part Number?

B99BAF33-06D9-4E2A-8545-4CE11199E5C9 (resized).jpeg
#1684 28 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Next im not sure regarding Part number for this carriage bolt there are so many sizes and lengths. Which would be the correct
One for front of cabinet? Since the other three don’t look great either I’ll just replace all Four if I’m Putting a new Order together.

those holes are for the mounts for the lockbar that B/W offered on later WPC games. i just checked mine and i think the carriage bolts in those slots are slightly longer than the ones that hold on the coin door, but that would only be important if you were going to install the lockbar and related brackets. you should be able to fill it with these (though you can look for similar elsewhere):

https://www.pinballlife.com/14-20-x-1-14-carriage-bolt.html

the originals likely didn't have any raised lettering on top but it's now pretty much impossible to get any new that don't; the only way to get around that is to grind them off and repaint which IMO isn't worth it.

Quoted from shokel328:

And just one more for today - Where can I find the metal piece on the other side (right) of the blue rubber? Is there a part Number?

oddly enough, i was reading backwards through this thread last night (starting on this page) looking for some other information and i came across this subject. apparently it's long since been discontinued, of course, but someone is making them. the big drawback for some is that it's without threads so you'll need to have a tap & die set to put the proper threads in yourself. i'm feeling too lazy to skim back at the moment, but the relevant posts are likely within the last 200 or so.

#1685 28 days ago
Quoted from mc300baud:

those holes are for the mounts for the lockbar that B/W offered on later WPC games. i just checked mine and i think the carriage bolts in those slots are slightly longer than the ones that hold on the coin door, but that would only be important if you were going to install the lockbar and related brackets. you should be able to fill it with these (though you can look for similar elsewhere):
https://www.pinballlife.com/14-20-x-1-14-carriage-bolt.html
the originals likely didn't have any raised lettering on top but it's now pretty much impossible to get any new that don't; the only way to get around that is to grind them off and repaint which IMO isn't worth it.

oddly enough, i was reading backwards through this thread last night (starting on this page) looking for some other information and i came across this subject. apparently it's long since been discontinued, of course, but someone is making them. the big drawback for some is that it's without threads so you'll need to have a tap & die set to put the proper threads in yourself. i'm feeling too lazy to skim back at the moment, but the relevant posts are likely within the last 200 or so.

Thanks for your time and info. Great help in getting this beauty back to its former glory

#1686 28 days ago

Just wondering if there was any reasoning behind the color of the neon tube in the games. Mine is that orange color and have been thinking about changing it to the green which I prefer. Thoughts??

#1687 28 days ago
Quoted from GPS:

Just wondering if there was any reasoning behind the color of the neon tube in the games. Mine is that orange color and have been thinking about changing it to the green which I prefer. Thoughts??

I have orange too, worst color. The frosted tube green and purple look really good. Those are my favorites that I have seen.

#1688 28 days ago
Quoted from GPS:

Just wondering if there was any reasoning behind the color of the neon tube in the games. Mine is that orange color and have been thinking about changing it to the green which I prefer. Thoughts??

from what i understand it was random from the factory (as was the color of the Menagerie ball.) i believe there were at least four or five different options of which green is one and replacements are readily available. personally, i think blue, green, and purple all go quite well with the theme colors but i don't dislike the others enough to spend $150+ to change 'em out. i suppose i got lucky and mine came with blue so i don't have to make that choice.

#1689 27 days ago

Thank you fellas

#1690 27 days ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you fellas

If you change out your neon and you are doing the ball too. Let me know if you find a yellow ball. Mine is red and yellow looks great.

#1691 27 days ago

Every day I ask a couple questions, get great help and implement the following day. (Games are in my office). As soon as I’m done I find the next thing.
And todays question is… I have an orphaned molex connector. I’m not even sure the others that are plugged (in photo) are correct, because not all of them have matching wires on both ends…
still, I can play around and figure those out but still there will be one with nothing to connect to. Is something here missing?

5271C198-CAA0-418B-8A63-32E8EFFA53EE (resized).jpeg
#1692 27 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

And just one more for today - Where can I find the metal piece on the other side (right) of the blue rubber? Is there a part Number?
[quoted image]

Nigh impossible to find.
I made my own, posted, and somebody on this thread commissioned me to make a small run, which he put up for sale. Do some digging here or in the marketplace.

Thanks,
Jason

#1693 27 days ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Nigh impossible to find.
I made my own, posted, and somebody on this thread commissioned me to make a small run, which he put up for sale. Do some digging here or in the marketplace.
Thanks,
Jason

Marcos has the same part but for the opposite side. Would it work if I put it on upside down, and drilled a hole on the other end?

827F67B0-83AF-4C12-9730-B2414402C72F (resized).jpeg
#1694 27 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Marcos has the same part but for the opposite side. Would it work if I put it on upside down, and drilled a hole on the other end?[quoted image]

I bought that part, carefully located and drilled the correct-sized hole, and pressed in the correct PEM threaded standoff with a PEM press.

Back then, I had access to a machine shop with the right equipment.

But you've got the right idea, and it can be done with simpler hand and power tools.

Jason

#1695 27 days ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

I bought that part, carefully located and drilled the correct-sized hole, and pressed in the correct PEM threaded standoff with a PEM press.
Back then, I had access to a machine shop with the right equipment.
But you've got the right idea, and it can be done with simpler hand and power tools.
Jason

Sweet, my brother has all the equipment in the world at his work, I’ll go for it! Thanx

#1696 27 days ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Nigh impossible to find.
I made my own, posted, and somebody on this thread commissioned me to make a small run, which he put up for sale. Do some digging here or in the marketplace.
Thanks,
Jason

Yes - Jason helped me put together a small run of these, complete with the rubber and screw. They all sold, and I have no more. Happy to have helped a dozen or so folks with Jason's help and expertise.

Rob

#1697 27 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Sweet, my brother has all the equipment in the world at his work, I’ll go for it! Thanx

Then, because your bracket will now have 2 threaded standoffs, punch 1 more hole in the blue rubber. Tool like a leather punch or hole punch works well enough.

Jason

#1698 27 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Every day I ask a couple questions, get great help and implement the following day. (Games are in my office). As soon as I’m done I find the next thing.
And todays question is… I have an orphaned molex connector. I’m not even sure the others that are plugged (in photo) are correct, because not all of them have matching wires on both ends…
still, I can play around and figure those out but still there will be one with nothing to connect to. Is something here missing?

going off what i can see of the the wiring colors, white/blue and green/white should go to #46 on the matrix, which is the "trough upper" switch visible right above your fingers in the pic. looks like those wires are connected to something else.

just checked my machine and confirmed. the background is a bit out of focus but you can see that connector hooked to that switch.
PXL_20211230_210901917 (resized).jpg

#1699 27 days ago
Quoted from mc300baud:going off what i can see of the the wiring colors, white/blue and green/white should go to #46 on the matrix, which should be the "trough upper" switch, the one that is visible right above your fingers in the pic. looks like those wires are connected to something else.
just checked my machine and confimed. the background is a bit out of focus but you can see that connector hooked to that switch.[quoted image]

Thanks so much. Haven’t wanted to go back to the office so bad in ages you guys rock. Wait til I get to the ring master :-/ there’s no screw on top! Someone used a rivet

#1700 27 days ago

My first experience with removing the Ringmaster mech to replace his coil/spring base. It takes a beating over the years and the new one looks nice. I also replaced the ball-catch basin underneath with a mirror-finish chrome plated one and new sticker. Looks awesome!

76503CA4-BDE8-4DC9-AA53-12FBE1F4969D (resized).jpegF68675B3-235B-49E9-AA91-07037E015203 (resized).jpeg
There are 1,778 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 36.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside