@darthfett72. That’s the way. Remove the 2 screws and then force the plastic out. Be gentile so no wires are broken at that moment.

I like the standard ringmaster. Some other like the prototype Is not much different. I don’t remember how many flasher it has inside. But in mine I put blue led flasher so his eyes pop it during play.

Pictures in this gallery show one flasher in the RM.

Thanks for the quick reply everyone.

The skinny Ringmaster came on the Prototype and the Sample games. I prefer the skinny RM over Fat Head. Fat Head was part of the answer to the issue with balls getting stuck behind the RM and being shoved down into the cabinet. That problem was easily solved by putting in an additional post behind the left target and extending the rubber. That prevented the balls from getting by the RM. I guess some people did not want to add the post so "Ole Fat Head" solved the problem.

If you use the prototype head, you do not need to add the post behind the target. The post behind the target is only used if you use the fat head.

Skinny head, the ball passes between the back of target and head. With chubby, it creates a ball hang up, that’s why post is added.

Was shocked how little material I have to remove so I will refurbish this part. Stebel’s method was a big help, thanks again sir.

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Nope: the prototypes and samples had the problem. Not the general release with fat head. The post behind the target was installed on my sample game before it was restored by HEP. After it was restored the post was removed by HEP. The (second) owner before me had terrible problems with the ball stick issue so he put on a fat head. I took the fat head off and reinstalled the original RM and immediately started getting ball stick issues. I then realized, that the post was installed by the first owner because of the before pics at HEP. (It was there). It was then that I reinstalled the post and extended the rubber and no more issues to this day!

Installing this decal is not for the faint of heart! First wipe the back panel with alcohol. Then lay the decal (still on it’s backing) out on the panel and match up exactly where it goes. (Holes all matching with their respective cutouts on the decal) trace (with a pencil) all around the circumference of decal inside and outside. Use The Wet Method! (If you dont, you will be sorry) The wet method works well with a 50/50 water alcohol mixture in a spray bottle. Spray the panel generously with the solution. Peel the backing on the decal and try to line up the blue section first with your outline. The rest will fall into place. The wet method allows for you to move the decal til you get it dead nuts. (Or close enough for govt work). After getting the decal in place you have to work out the bubbles. Do it right away or they will dry in place and you will have to pin them. Use lots of light so you can see where the bubbles are.
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Wow is that a new panel? Where on earth did you source that (the tub itself)?

Yes It is. It is one from IPB. NOS. My Panel on my game is fine. I just wanted a spare in case the cannon solenoid broke it.

Dang, that’s awesome. If you ever feel confident in your new one enough to let your old one go, please let me know. Mine is practically held together with dreams and duct tape at this point.

No, actually, Stebel is correct -
Originally, the post was not needed, because the head was smaller. The ball, if ending up behind the target, could roll down around between the target and the RM head.

HOWEVER< the small Ringmaster head had an issue where it could 'catch' a ball as he was dropping below the PF, and have the ball drop into the cabinet. To fix that, which was done near the end of the Sample run, they enlarged the RM head. However, this now caused a ball trap behind the target. So, the maintenance kit released by WMS had operators install the post there.

Thats my experience with it. It does not matter to me which came first the chicken or the egg. I just told my story on what happened to me. My game works perfect with the post and the proto/ sample Ringmaster. If I remove that post, balls stick immediately. Sheesh

Interesting. This might explain things. I have what I believe is a later run sample game with a fat head. I always wondered if someone had swapped the heads and if I should pop for a skinny one to put back in. Maybe it came this way.

Can you share a picture of the skinny head? Curious how it looks!

For what it’s worth, if you have LED’s in this game, the GI OCD is a must have. I thought the flickering was a feature until I tested the GI’s and the flickering was the dimming. The OCD makes a huge difference.

I ordered the blue ball from Marcos and it makes a huge difference it falls down the right about half the time and hits the switch. Started to replace the fake bell with a real bell, but didn’t get to it. Will do soon!

So my machine has not reset in sometime, but a buddy came over tonight to play and reset on him. Just for shits and grins I threw in the reset fix board (that I ordered a few weeks ago when it first started happening) and it seemed to address it for a full two player game which lasted about 30 minutes. Then it reset again, when he was playing and I was playing another pin (IJ) next to him on the same electrical circuit. I don’t know if that was the cause or a coincidence.

I measured the voltage at J101 on the power board and on pin 32 of the CPU chip, almost identical at 5.09 so not losing anything there. Measured the outlet at the wall as well as the service port, both reading the same and consistent. The only thing I can figure is that while I’m not monitoring, there is a voltage drop. Somewhere. Maybe from the pool heater (they are in a pool house), maybe the HVAC, who knows. To rule that out I ordered a line conditioner which has a battery to cover voltage drops.

I have noticed, when the reset happens, it typically starts with a shot up the left ramp and presumably when the magnet engages going into the lock. Are magnets a big power draw? And anything I should be looking for related to that?

Another thing i that I can’t figure out, it’s not an immediate reset. Every time it goes to the sideshow animation with a dark play field and no flipper control (which I believe is the case when you get the sideshow). Then the DMD shows testing….

I will ultimately figure it out by trial and error, but any comments or thoughts would be appreciated.

Love this game!

The same problem with the fathead can happen with the proto head. The post fixed a problem for both, if there are other issues with the proto head that is unrelated to the post IMO.

You're all right.

Notice the post and the rubber extended on the left. The skinny RM is one of the best features of the early versions of the game IMHO.

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Which 'problem'? Ball getting caught, or pulled into the cabinet?
If the former - yes, only if your RM head isn't straight. (Rotated, or the spring in bent.) In which case, straighten it back out, center the head. If the latter - I'm sure it can, though I've never seen it.

Here's a few shots of mine. Sadly, the one that was signed by two of the designers was trashed.

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Is the switch cam the only location I should grease on my RM assembly?

Has anyone managed to paint match the colors on the RM?

I know it’s not typically related to resets and also a different PSB board but I’ve had a WPC-S game reset with the daughterboard installed and the cause was failed/weak 12vr circuit on the power supply board.

I've got a fathead, but I also have that post (although it doesn't connect to the other post with rubber, it just has it's own little ring around it).

That might be it, I need to check the 12v. My 5v is fine, but I didn't check 12v. But interesting, it resets every time going up the ramp, I'm wondering if that switch below the magnet, or the magnet, is getting a bad connection. I'm going to do some wiggling under the glass here shortly.

Extending that rubber to that post is the key to preventing to balls from getting stuck with the proto RM. At least it is on my game.

Is the backglass plastic trim on this game different than other WPC's? I seem to be missing the side pieces, not needed, but would like to order some. With all this game has going on in the backglass, it seemed a little thicker to me, so wondering if the trim piece was a different part number. Couldn't find a PN in the manual, so thought I'd ask! Thank you

Cirqus Voltaire Lift Trim

Partnumber: 03-9697

Cirqus Voltaire Backglass Top Trim

Partnumber: 03-9698-1

Cirqus Voltaire Backglass Side Trim

Partnumber: 03-9698-2

I am not sure this helps, but this is what i found.

Greetings daniel

That’s what I couldn’t find, perfect!

Hello All
Quick question. Having issues with the middle switch in the rm. think I need to extract the whole rm and change out the switches and otherwise just correct the issue. Any words about removing this module. Hints? Things to avoid/be careful of? Many thanks

George

It is best to remove the entire unit. You can work on it on the bench much easier. The subway can be a little tricky. Pay attention to how it comes out. It would be best to replace all of the RM switches at one time and be done. Also pay attention to the RM's harness. Wires fraying insulation damage ect... And lastly, any of the WOW bulbs that have an issue (cracked solder joints on the board) or whatever now is the time to take that board out and fix it. Very easy to remove when the RM is out.

Would it be a good idea to use switches with roller activation arms or is it better to use the wire activation arms?

There have been others that have done this. Also on the lock. My game uses the blade switches as designed. They work flawlessly. I know CV has a rep for being unreliable on location but once these two units are set up correctly with new switches they will work properly for a long time especially in a home environment. The roller switch is a good idea, but the key is for the switches to work as designed or the game freaks out and can do some weird stuff (especially in the lock unit)

This bracket that is circled was not installed correctly in my machine (it was backwards from the picture). I’ve attached it the way that it looks from the CV pics I could find (harder when Pinside was down!). Does this look correct now? I have it double side taped to the back of the switch because that’s how it was, and I don’t have the screws small enough to fit.

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I’m chasing down a maddening problem, it’s intermittent which means it only happens when I’m on my GC score

Was at 168M w/ another ball left.

The machine resets, easy right all WPC’s do. Bought the bandaid, tested all the TP’s for voltages, followed the guides until I ran out of talent, took both the power and MPU board to Chris Hibler who went through them all, tested, etc. got it back, still does it. Voltage coming out of my walls measures fine and I have 3 more WPC’s plugged into the same outlets, no issues.

Here is where this is weird, my machine goes into a random Side Show mode (on DMD, music, etc) for about 5 seconds (flippers dead and playfield dark, same as when you go into it in the game) before I see the “Testing...”. Changed ROMs to 2.0H from 2.0HC (heard it was a hack), thought I solved it but then the above game happened.

It only ever happens/resets going up the ramp. Upper ramp and ramp made switches test fine. I though the issue could have been a diode that’s really close / touching the other lead on the ramp made switch, but not. It could be the magnet (next step is unplugging it to see if the resets still happen), or could be the neon, which is triggered by the ramp made (which you only see if the magnet doesn’t grab it).

Had anybody seen anything like this? For a while I was able to reproduce, but then I can go games without being able to. Driving me a little nuts!!!

Would love any suggestions.

You have to recreate the issue somehow. Put the game in test switch mode and press those switches repeatedly. Also raise the playfield and leave it in test mode wiggle the wires for those switches and also the left orbit switches. Your looking for two or more switches making at once.

Sometimes I can recreate, other times it plays just fine for awhile. I’ve narrowed it down to ramp w/o lock* (so no magnet engaging) and rolling down (which lights the neon). *with the glass off, rolling the ball by hand, this is how I recreates. This may be happening when lock/magnet are on, but not when trying to recreate.

I will take your advice with the playfield up, wiggling the switches, but I’d also like to disconnect the magnet and neon to see if it still happens. Assuming both are pretty big power draws. Do you know if there is molexes below to unplug or will I have to de-solder.

Thanks!

RobbyIRL5 Hi. Look you have a switch short that causes the reset. Look at the switches that’s doing the reset. And look at the switch matriX Then follow the switches and test one by one. Good luck.

Yeah test the diodes on both of those switches also. And just for grinns, press both of those switches at the same time.

Is there a prescribed way to test the diodes on switches? I understand that a diode is sort of a one-way and prevents signal going backwards, but how would I test this?

You have to unsolder one end from the circuit, then you can accurately test them.

I think this is what I needed to to do (the grins part, hitting both switches at once). I have a bunch of column 6 switches that if I push at the same time as another, activates a random additional switches. It is column 6 that is wonky.
61 (Light Standup Target) - if I hit it together with 62 (Lock Standup Target), I get 62, 21 (Slam Tilt), and 31 (trough eject) - Row 1 switch faults
61 - if I hit it with 64 (Ramp Magnet), I get 64, 21 and 31 - Row 1 again
64 - if I hit it with 65 (Ramp Made), I get 65 and 25 (Inner Loop Left) - Row 5
68 (ramp lock high) - hitting it with 61 gets a 61 and 31, hitting it with 64 gets a 64 and 28 (Inner Loop Right), hitting it with 65 works as designed (only get a 65).

There are many more combos of errors I can generate (off of column 6), but as this will be my first real dive into switch matrix issues (beyond just replacing a chip, which it has a fresh u20), I'm not really sure what to do with this data. Would the next step be start at 61 and go down the column testing to figure the last switch in the chain that effects every other switch in column 6? The last on 68 (for example) isn't problematic with switch 65, 66, or 67, but is effected by everything 64 and below (to 61). Does this mean 64 is the problem switch and maybe the diode isn't working?

Thank you for any help, I really do love learning this stuff and value the input so that one day I can help somebody else.

Airballs are a common thing sometimes they can just hit the switch wiring just right and bend a diode leg into another lead. I assume you have visually inspected all the top side switches though.

RobbyIRL5 Look. You first need to identify the bad switches. Then you can unsolder 1 end of diode and whit multimeter (they have a position to check continuity. Is the one that beeps when you touch the 2 leads.) then check switch and diode. It can be either. And think first you should go to menu then test then switch level. There supposed to some active switches. I don’t remember which. But if is hard I’ll send you a pic.

I've looked at all of them (64 looked close and I bent it away, this was a few days ago, had a similar issue with IJ where the diode bent into the lead and cause some switch havoc) and have a heck of of a marked up switch matrix (trying the rectangle approach). All diodes look normal and I have a multi-meter, but can't seem to make any sense of the testing. half the diodes in the machine test fine using the multi-meter (showing .6-.8V one way, 0L the other way), the rest just show .001v or something both ways (including all the problematic ones). Either half the diodes in the machine are bad, or I need to figure out what I'm doing wrong with the test. Ugh....

Does a diode need to be unsoldered on one end (positive or negative) to test? That could be part of my testing issue.

Attached is a pick with the matrix, all starting by combining switches in column 6

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UPDATE - I believe I'm making progress. The diode in question visibly was 65 (ramp made), and I wasn't able to test the diode inline. So I desoldered, and it tested fine. Resoldered the switch, and I think it solved some of the issue. As we sit, the only offending switch is 64 (ramp magnet). I can hit any combo of other switches (as long as this one, 64, isn't included) and everything tests.

So I started de-soldering and testing diodes, all suspect diodes tested correctly. Found some crappy soldering on some of the switches, cleaned up. I'm out of ideas. Essentially what I could reproduce pretty regularly is that every switch works fine alone (and combined with other switches), except any column 6 at the same time as 64 (Ramp Magnet) would like both, as well as the same row in column 2 (for whatever I'm combining with 64). I just put everything back together, and it's back to random combinations of most of column 6. So it's really not even reproducing consistently, but it is consistently not working and i'm chasing changing conditions. The real risk I have outside of test mode (that resets the game) is the combination of the locks (lower, middle, and upper) with 64. I've got my tech buddy coming Tuesday, but will likely not sleep until I figure this out!