(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans

By Dbaum88

7 years ago


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There are 1,760 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 36.
#1201 1 year ago

Play and enjoy it. If issues arise, post. You’ll want the 2.0h Home ROM if you don’t already have it. It’s an EPROM that you can easily replace yourself (no soldering).

Otherwise, enjoy the game. It’s such a unique and special game.

#1202 1 year ago

I seas thinking of using the 1.04 rom as opposed to the hone version. Seems like it would be good enough and still have the official last code that Williams made. Seems like there are many more adjustments in the home version not sure I need all those. Thoughts??

#1203 1 year ago

Home version is much better. The only reason not to get the home ROMs would be if you ever intended to route the game. The Home ROM's don't support coin mechs.

#1204 1 year ago

The home rom is the reason the game became collectible and great. Get the home rom. Trust us.

#1205 1 year ago

Roger that. Thank you

#1206 1 year ago

I joined the cirqus but didn't complete it. Missed it by one letter. 108,917,410 Grand Champion.

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#1207 1 year ago

Hi Fellas

Quickie here. Is it necessary to remove batteries from the game when changing out U6, the game eprom? Thank you

George

#1208 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hi Fellas
Quickie here. Is it necessary to remove batteries from the game when changing out U6, the game eprom? Thank you
George

No. Just turn the game off before hand.

#1209 1 year ago

Hi all, new to the thread. I've had a players quality CV for a few years now and I'm trying to spruce it up a bit. A few things have eluded me and wanted to know if anyone had a lead on:
- Replacement trim for the backglass -- Thanks to the tub and larger plastic "translite" it's a thicker channel trim than other wpc95 games. I can't find it anywhere.
- A replacement "tub" for the backbox -- the part behind the backglass. Mine's pretty fragile and cracked in a few spots, and I'd love to replace it if I could find a source.

A few quick questions in case anyone knows off hand.
- How many rips does your spinner take to light "SPIN" marvel? I rip it good twice in a row and it sometimes won't complete the marvel. As designed? Feels like it's a real short timer to hit it again.
- When on phase 1 of Join the Cirqus, my "S" shot sometimes won't complete even when hitting the shot full around the loop. I've tested all switches on the path and they all register in switch test. Anyone else experience this?

Thanks -- I'm trying to make my way back through the thread for fun!

#1210 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No. Just turn the game off before hand.

Will do and thank you!!

#1211 1 year ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

Hi all, new to the thread. I've had a players quality CV for a few years now and I'm trying to spruce it up a bit. A few things have eluded me and wanted to know if anyone had a lead on:
- Replacement trim for the backglass -- Thanks to the tub and larger plastic "translite" it's a thicker channel trim than other wpc95 games. I can't find it anywhere.
- A replacement "tub" for the backbox -- the part behind the backglass. Mine's pretty fragile and cracked in a few spots, and I'd love to replace it if I could find a source.
A few quick questions in case anyone knows off hand.
- How many rips does your spinner take to light "SPIN" marvel? I rip it good twice in a row and it sometimes won't complete the marvel. As designed? Feels like it's a real short timer to hit it again.
- When on phase 1 of Join the Cirqus, my "S" shot sometimes won't complete even when hitting the shot full around the loop. I've tested all switches on the path and they all register in switch test. Anyone else experience this?
Thanks -- I'm trying to make my way back through the thread for fun!

Hello,

As for parts, I have just gone through my game and have needed a few items. I wanted a new "tub" as well but I could not locate one. There was one listed on a UK site but it was unavail. Keep in mind this is a BW game so there are a number of items that Planetary has proprietary rights to. As an example, I got my new cabinet graphics from them as they legally own the rights. I have also been able to find parts at Pinbits that no one else seemed to have. Found a new motor assembly from Mad Amusements on ebay. Figured it would be nice to have that in the event if fails, not having the ring master in the game kind of kills it for me. I should be good now till Im dead as I do not play a lot.

Wish you well in getting your game looking sharp.

George

#1212 1 year ago

Hi Fellas
Not sure I have an issue or not. Hoping for some insight.

I am using the 2.0 home rom. When I lock a ball ( have replaced all switches in wire form with roller types and all are good) the machine registers as having locked a ball but then the solenoid engages and releases the ball. ???? Maybe a setting in the new rom??? Thanks guys

#1213 1 year ago

I had a little similar weirdness on the ramp. New switches. Sometimes had premature releases.

The angle of my game was a little too shallow, & the 2nd or 3rd locked balls would sometimes clunk into the 1st ball & make the 1st ball ride up the cone tip of the ball blocker shaft just a little. Just enough to disengage the switch, even though the switch looked as if it were engaged.

I made my machine a tad steeper & haven't seen that happen since.

Look through my previous posts--it was maybe a few months ago.

-Jason

#1214 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hi Fellas
Not sure I have an issue or not. Hoping for some insight.
I am using the 2.0 home rom. When I lock a ball ( have replaced all switches in wire form with roller types and all are good) the machine registers as having locked a ball but then the solenoid engages and releases the ball. ???? Maybe a setting in the new rom??? Thanks guys

There is a setting to disable physical locks, could be that.

#1215 1 year ago

There is a phys hw lock and a jug lock. I am assuming the jug lock is not what I need. I tried adjusting the phys hw lock and whether on or off it did not change that when the ball is shot up the ramp and it is sent to the ball lock station. It registers as being locked but then is let go back into the play field. This has to be an adjustment issue as with the previous software this did not happen. I did have an issue with the old switches hanging onto balls and was advised this is a known issue and to replace with roller switches which I did. Don’t think this is a switch issue but a logic one. Any additional help here is most appreciated. Thank you guys

#1216 1 year ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

I had a little similar weirdness on the ramp. New switches. Sometimes had premature releases.
The angle of my game was a little too shallow, & the 2nd or 3rd locked balls would sometimes clunk into the 1st ball & make the 1st ball ride up the cone tip of the ball blocker shaft just a little. Just enough to disengage the switch, even though the switch looked as if it were engaged.
I made my machine a tad steeper & haven't seen that happen since.
Look through my previous posts--it was maybe a few months ago.
-Jason

Thank you. Not sure we’re talking about the same issue though as this is occurring when there is only one ball sent to the lock location in the ramp. It sees it as being locked but after the video stuff the ball is let go onto the play field??

#1217 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you. Not sure we’re talking about the same issue though as this is occurring when there is only one ball sent to the lock location in the ramp. It sees it as being locked but after the video stuff the ball is let go onto the play field??

Are the Juggler lock switches working correctly also? If it's showing balls there it will release the HW ball. Just a thought.

#1218 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

It sees it as being locked but after the video stuff the ball is let go onto the play field??

It will eject the ball back onto the playfield, if:
1. There are no more balls in the trough. (Missing ball, bad trough switch, etc.)
2. The lock switches (all three of them) do not immediatly represent balls in the highwire lock.

To test #1 - make sure that no balls are in Juggler, and that all your trough switches are working.
To test #2 - put the game into single switch mode, highlight switch #66. Set the ball on the highwire magnet, and let it roll down into the highwire ramp. The switch should activate and stay on. It should NOT go On-Off-On, or have any flutter in activating.

My guess is that the ball is hitting the gate shaft and rolling up so the switch is getting (momentarily) opened again. If this is what's happening, to fix it you can either (or both) adjust the switch, or clamp down the top guide of the wireform ramp.

#1219 1 year ago

Thank you very much coyote. I will take a look at this tonight and report back. Not sure where the juggler is but I will look in the manual. Thank you

#1220 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you very much coyote. I will take a look at this tonight and report back. Not sure where the juggler is but I will look in the manual. Thank you

Juggler are the two saucer locks in the back left of the playfield.

#1221 1 year ago

Ok fellas. Here is what I found. Did exactly what coyote mentioned. The trough is fine. No issues. Then I went up to the high wire switch number 66. With the ball just sitting against the release solenoid the switch is registering as OPEN. If I back the ball up just a smidge, it shows closed. The amount being moved here is just the amount of play in the solenoid “pin” that releases the ball. Man, coyote you were dead frickin on.

So now I need to find a way to back that ball up just a little so that when it is in position the machine registers it as being there. I am going to video it. Standby

#1222 1 year ago

Can’t attach a video. Though this could happen before. Oh well. The play in the release pin is what is at issue here. Wish there was some kind of adjustment to that

#1223 1 year ago

Pulled the wire form down a bit and then retightened the lower retaining screw for the wire form and the switch now stays closed. Could it be???

#1224 1 year ago

Up and working. Thanks a million coyote and all

#1225 1 year ago

Coyote is the man when it comes to CV. He has tweaked mine to play like a champ. Then proceeded to destroy my GC score Now i will install a nvram to show him!!

#1226 1 year ago

Glad you got it, GPS .

Hoping that soimetime, someday, I will have a CV back in my collection. I miss that game somethin' fierce.

#1227 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Glad you got it, gps .
Hoping that soimetime, someday, I will have a CV back in my collection. I miss that game somethin' fierce.

With your kind assistance. Thank you very much. It is a beautiful game. Wanted one for a while and found one locally for a respectable price. Put a few bucks into it and it is now an attractive example that plays well. Thank you again sincerely for your help

#1228 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Glad you got it, gps .
Hoping that soimetime, someday, I will have a CV back in my collection. I miss that game somethin' fierce.

May I ask why you got rid of it? It is truly a fun game. Now that it is pretty much filed in I don’t play it a lot. I have a mod that I ordered from the Mod Coiple for the ring master but that’s about it. Surprising enough the game I probably ply the most is an old Gottlieb em called Roller Coaster. It was the first one. Oh well. Hopefully one finds it way back into your possession soon!

#1229 1 year ago

Hey Coyote you out there?? Found another issue with the high wire feature. What is happening is the first ball locks ok but when the second ball locks the game will very quickly indicate the switch is closed but then it goes open. This is as a result I think of the solenoid pin that keeps the balls locked. There appears to be a lot of “play” in that solenoid pin. Was thinking about replacing that whole mech in the hopes I could tighten that up a bit. If that spike, pin whatever had less play I would be golden.

Was playing this eve and found that when I got two balls locked the machine would not advance another ball as it thought due to the middle switch not staying closed, there was still a ball in play. I know what the problem is and think I have a solution. What say you it any of the thread members who may have experienced this. Being a newb to the game I’m not sure if this is common or Not. Thank you all for your kind consideration. Almost dialed in but not yet

Thanks fellas

G

#1230 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

May I ask why you got rid of it?

I had two - the first one I had while in Colorado. I sold it when I started my career and had to move to Atlanta. Once I got to Atlanta, I got my second. (Both were Sample games, as well, and the second one was a beta-tester for v2.0H.) I don't remember why, but I had to sell that one as well. Both these games I had back when CV prices were cheap-as-fuck- $2k, $3k.

Quoted from GPS:

What is happening is the first ball locks ok but when the second ball locks the game will very quickly indicate the switch is closed but then it goes open.

The gate pin will have play. And it's needed. But since the roller switches is a collector-fix (and not an official WMS fix), it's possible that the switches need to be aligned more, or the lock gate coil assembly's position need to be adjusted some, or there's still some vertical play lifting the balls off the switches.
In reality, I would focus on adjusting the switch/switch arms.

#1231 1 year ago

Thank you for getting back. I can confirm that there are no issues with the balls not activating the switches due to the balls being lifted. That is fine. It is due to horizontal position. Maybe I am going to have to take it apart again and go back to regular switches as they would seem to have more ability to be adjusted to accommodate this situation. I’ll look at the solenoid and the pin and see if there is anything I can do there. Not too much adjustability to the micro switches

#1232 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

Thank you for getting back. I can confirm that there are no issues with the balls not activating the switches due to the balls being lifted. That is fine. It is due to horizontal position. Maybe I am going to have to take it apart again and go back to regular switches as they would seem to have more ability to be adjusted to accommodate this situation. I’ll look at the solenoid and the pin and see if there is anything I can do there. Not too much adjustability to the micro switches

I'm theory you don't need a lot of play. Potentially, loosening both screws and the just pushing the switch body forward and then rerighten it..

#1233 1 year ago

Coyote,
The micro switches have no ability to move or have any play. There is just no adjustment factor there. I am going to look under the playfield this eve and see what may be going on with the solenoid and strike pin. As I said if that strike pin could be moved backwards towards the back of the playfield 1/16-1/8" that would likely solve these issues. That strike pin has A LOT of play forwards to back. I need to look at the underside of the playfield and get a better grip on what is going on there. I am doubtful there is any adjustment but there may be. Appreciate your kind assistance!!

#1234 1 year ago

Still have not addressed the switch issue that I have on the high wire ramp but am waiting for a mod to come so that I hopefully only have to take the game down once!

Question... my ringmaster does not operate smoothly going down. Kind of jumpy if you will. Wondering if this is something that is common?? I have a new motor/gearbox assembly I could put in if the consensus is that will make the vertical movement more smooth. Now that the hame is mostly working save for the HW switch issue I have not delved into yet, the game will only be played sparingly so if the consensus is to replace the motor/gearbox I doubt that I would ever need another one. Thoughts??

#1235 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

Still have not addressed the switch issue that I have on the high wire ramp but am waiting for a mod to come so that I hopefully only have to take the game down once!
Question... my ringmaster does not operate smoothly going down. Kind of jumpy if you will. Wondering if this is something that is common?? I have a new motor/gearbox assembly I could put in if the consensus is that will make the vertical movement more smooth. Now that the hame is mostly working save for the HW switch issue I have not delved into yet, the game will only be played sparingly so if the consensus is to replace the motor/gearbox I doubt that I would ever need another one. Thoughts??

You probably have a couple teeth missing on one of the gears in the gearbox . I have a spare gearbox and motor for cv and one for dr. Who . I don’t have dr. Who anymore so I’d offer one up for sale . Pm me of your interested . Dr. Who and cv use the same .

#1236 1 year ago

Thank [email protected]! I do have a new motor/gearbox assembly as I mentioned in my post. Makes sense what you’re saying as the ring master kind of drops a bit as it is going down as opposed to a linear downward action. Has anyone replaced this before? Don’t know if the motor/gearbox needs to be in a given position when installed. Maybe not. That’s what the switches are there for to communicate motor position??

If this is just a matter of disconnecting the existing motor/gearbox and installing the new I am tempted to do it. Thoughts??

#1237 1 year ago

Very simple to do.

#1238 1 year ago

I am expecting a small protection mod for the game today. I will take a look at the motor assembly and maybe swap it out. Don’t want to create any additional issue on something that is otherwise operational

#1239 1 year ago

Ok fellas. Feel free to chime in. Hope this is not too much of a hack but it does indeed work. I was having issue with the new roller switches actually registering as closed when the ball was on top of them. So I came up with this solution that works well. Just took a rubber sleeve and placed over the pin effectively backing up the balls slightly which is what I needed. Then took the plastic that the pin goes through and enlarged from 1/2” to approx 9/16” inch with an incremental drilling bit. Used this by hand not in a drill. Put it all back together and now when the balls sit in the high wire they are recognized as such by the machine. We will see how it works during game play.

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#1240 1 year ago

Hi Frllas

Somehow the under 13 v fuse at F109 blew. Not sure why but resolved that with the help of the guys at DMD. I now have a new switch error at location 16 Top Eddy which appears to be somewhere in front of the ring master. Unfamiliar with this. This must not be a standard switch but some type of sensing device? Could the unreg 12 v fuse blowing have anything to do with this? Thanks guys

#1241 1 year ago

An eddy switch uses eddy currents to detect changes in the magnetic field. When your pinball rolls in front of the ringmaster, it make this switch close. It’s a small sensor that’s under the playfield, since it works with current and fields, it’s not visible to the player. Neat design.

#1242 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

An eddy switch uses eddy currents to detect changes in the magnetic field. When your pinball rolls in front of the ringmaster, it make this switch close. It’s a small sensor that’s under the playfield, since it works with current and fields, it’s not visible to the player. Neat design.

Quoted from GPS:

Could the unreg 12 v fuse blowing have anything to do with this?

It could, but likely isn't - likely it just needs to be adjusted. If you search this thread for Eddy Sensor, you'll come across a lot of posts about it and how to adjust it, etc.

#1243 1 year ago

You guys are the best. I’ll look fir how to adjust the switch. Looks like it is just a board under the play field in front of the ring master. Neat indeed. Thanks guys. Grateful

#1244 1 year ago

Coyote I’m sorry to report that I am not sure how to search a thread. I’ve o lot searched the whole forum. Can you advise how please. There is no adjustment on my pcb in the form of a pot fyi

#1245 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

coyote I’m sorry to report that I am not sure how to search a thread. I’ve o lot searched the whole forum. Can you advise how please. There is no adjustment on my pcb in the form of a pot fyi

Pic of your board please. Maybe you have the auto-adjusting board already.

#1246 1 year ago
image (resized).jpg
#1247 1 year ago

I do think this is the auto sensing kind coyote which if that is the case probably need a new board?

#1248 1 year ago
Quoted from GPS:

I’m sorry to report that I am not sure how to search a thread.

At the top of the page theres a small area that says "Find In Topic".

Quoted from GPS:

I do think this is the auto sensing kind coyote which if that is the case probably need a new board?

That is the auto-adjusting board, per the small 8-pin IC with the label on it.

I'm going from old, old memory here, but cutting and resetting power to the board (i.e. turning the game off and on) should cause the board to readjust itself.

#1249 1 year ago

Ok. Thank you. I will do just that and see if that alarm goes away. If not I suppose I need a new board

#1250 1 year ago

Ok. Ran the ball across the field sensor in front of the ring master and all is good. Who knows!!?? Thanks all

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