Maybe someone can help on this one, on switch tests they look all work correct and working, what triggers the extra ball?

Can you be more specific, do you mean which switch(es) have to register to award the extra ball when lit or how do you light the extra ball?

If it's the first question first make sure Extra Balls are turned on in the settings and the game isn't set for tournament play.

Thanks again Bob!! As it turns out there is a pre-cut circle in the middle. Questions again please. I have ordered a set of cabinet decals from PPS in NV. These are supposed to be Next Gen decals but I have also read that these "Next gen" decals are not that great. Other issue is that I suspect that PPS is out of stock as my order from several days ago is still "pending". There is a company in the UK (pinballdecals.eu) that seems to have these decals for immediate shipment. Any thoughts??

Thank you

George...

For some reason PPS always shows orders as pending, I have some I received years ago that still show that status, yours have probably already shipped. If you don't receive them in a week or so contact the PPS folks. I can't really comment on the quality of the decals because I've personally never installed them but I believe that's what just about everyone uses and I think they'll be fine as long as you do all the necessary preparation work.

I have the scrolls but have never used them because I hate the way they look :/. I feel weird separating them from the game, but you could PM me and we could try to work something out.

Agree 100% - They just make a beautiful machine look absolutely awful. But I know a lot of people disagree

Is fixed my friend, always test switches by hand and by rollover the ball, diferent things

Looks like the graphics are on their way. Can’t wait to get the game re-decal’d

Quick question fellas. Removed the two bolts on the right side of the cabinet which support the Playfield. One has a longer “collar but” and one shorter. Did not notice this till after I removed. Could someone please ident which is closest to player position and which is closest to nav box please?

image (resized).jpg

Another question, is easy to level the boom ballon?
Regards

Looked back through some photos of a Cirqus we shopped, the shorter collar goes in the front. I believe it’s shorter because the kick out hole assembly will be in the way if it’s longer

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Awesome. Thank you kindly!! Got a bit ahead of myself today while dismantling. Eagerly awaiting new decals so I can start down the road of reassembly. Thanks again

Ive got a question too.
My neon seems to stop working during a game for a length of time then star up again. Usually happens if I’m having a longer game.
I’ve checked connections and all seem to be ok.
If I turn the game off when it’s not working and then back on it is working again in attract mode.
Is this a usual thing?

Still have these left over from when I was in the club, they are original NOS WMS; if anyone needs these, PM me.

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8633B8AE-2299-43D5-A069-D39E9FD547D5 (resized).jpeg

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F100E314-FDD6-4397-9F47-8EA6B4525C50 (resized).jpeg

Next time it stops working go into test mode and run the neon test which I believe is in the solenoid / flasher tests. Could be a bad driver chip or a the transformer is starting to fail.

Tech question: an intermittent problem (my favorite!!!)

I have the Pinbits Auto Eddy Board.

Usually, it works fine.

Sometimes, it will stop registering Ringmaster hits.
This behavior continues in later balls & in later games. It doesn't "fix itself."

What will *always* fix it is: enter switch test, run a ball back & forth over it a few times, then it starts registering fine (sometimes for maybe half an hour, sometimes for weeks).
What sometimes fixes it, but usually(?) for a shorter period of time: power cycle the game.

At first, I thought it was losing connection, so I checked the wires & connectors, & I reflowed the solder on the pin headers.
Then, because I later found that the switch test or game power cycle revives it, I'm pretty confident that it's not a flaky connection.

Any ideas?

Thank you,
-Jason

Make sure you have Auto Eddy boards set to no (counter-intuitive I know) in the settings.

Thank you.

I just played a couple of games. Ringmaster not registering.

I checked the Auto Eddy Boards setting. It is indeed set to "NO".

Just for fun, I switched it to "YES". The Ringmaster hits didn't register, and when I went into test mode, the Test Report popped up & said that Top Eddy wasn't working. So, having that set incorrectly leads to an immediate & obvious & 100% error, not the mostly-working condition that I have.

I set it back to "NO". No hits registered. I entered switch test & passed the ball over it a few times.
Revived, working for now.

I'm wondering if I should be looking at the switch module or the Eddy PCB...?

Thanks,
-Jason

Since it does register when you slowly roll a ball over it I don't believe you have a switch matrix issue but rather a less-sensitive than needed eddy board. Make sure the connections to it are all clean and tight and that it is mounted as close to the bottom of the playfield as possible. If that doesn't fix it I would probably try replacing it.

[no longer available, thanks]

Figured I'd offer this to my fellow Qlowns before the rest of the world.

FS: 1 Pinbits Blackout mod. Bought 3 years ago, installed & started using about 1 year ago. It's FABULOUS.

Then why am I selling? I just put in a GI OCD, so this is now redundant.

New ones are $35 + shipping. http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=387

Howzabout $23 shipped USPS First Class to the US?

Thanks,
-Jason

IMG_20200827_154759 (resized).jpgIMG_20200827_154813 (resized).jpg

Awwwww....my baby....I invented that....can't remember how long ago now, for my AFM, gave the design over to Martin and away it went.....

Can anyone help source or even have a spare set or combination of this rubber/metal/screw please.

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Their website always says sold out but some have reported being able to buy one if you contact them. Personally I've never had that luck with them but maybe you'll hit the lottery. https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_4&products_id=193

I see you're in Australia so you're also out of luck as they apparently aren't shipping internationally right now.

I went through this a while ago. I modified my bracket by drilling a new hole & pressing in a second PEM nut:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-circus-cv-club-for-owners-fans/page/19#post-5091471

Look for my posts starting around #895 for the scoop.

-Jason

None has fallen out yet!

Jason

In the process of led’ing my game. I have the ply field out as I am doing other work and wow, this is a job. The leds that illuminate “WOW” are real fun for sure. Figured I wanted to at least get the back end of the play field done before I put it back in as it might be easier with it out. Still a job no doubt!!

Hey Fellas
Still working on my play field and had a quick question. Think innnow but prefer not to frick anything up. Want to replace as many gi lights as possible with play field out. It is my recollection that all play field lights that are gi are fed by yellow wiring and there is no diode present which is indicative of a controlled light. Sound about right?? Thank you

Correct regarding diodes. There’s sometimes other strings that may use other colors than yellow. Forget what common GI wiring is used on WPC95.

Hey Guys
Another question. Looking at the manual it stress that there are two green flashers for the ringmaster. I am assuming they are inside the ringmaster as I cannot see them elsewhere. Assume one needs to take the ringmaster apart and replace flashers inside. Is this correct? Many thanks guys

Yup, yup, yup.

Thank you very much!!

Hi Fellas,

Need a couple play field plastics. Hoping that someone out there might have these.

31-2952-4
31-2834-8A

The one is a "cover" for the upper play field and the other helps cover a ramp on the upper left side of the play field. Both are clear without any graphics.

Please get in touch if you may have any of these.

Thank you

George...
FOUND PLEASE DISREGARD. PINBITS HAD THEM THANK YOU GUYS

Hey Fellas
Ok. The machine is up and running with just one error and I am hoping it is minor

I am getting a middle switch error on the ringmaster. Wondering if there is anyone out there that has worked on this mechanism and can afford some advice for servicing or just checking that switch? Thank you

Ringmaster Test in the Service Menu is a fantastic place to start.

I understand switch yeast mode but was more asking if anyone had any experience in disassembly of the ring master mech as I have not done that before. Figure asking first is a good way to help ward off fricking anything up

It’s not hard to remove him from the game. Just remove the top plate and he is attached with a few bolts/nuts. All of the connections are on plugs, so you can take him out and work on a well-lit table.

To get to that switch which is indicating a problem when game is powered up must the entire mech come out? Seems like I need to approach this from the underside of the play field angle as opposed to working from the ringmaster down???

It’s part of the mechanism. You’ll want to take it out. When he moves up and down, the cam rotates a disc that actuates three micro switches. You can’t really get to them in the game - maybe you can with great difficultly. But I would advise you to take it out and clean the old grease, fix the switch, give it a once over. It’s a huge heavy mech and you won’t want to do this often. I did that once 5 years ago, replaced all the switches and cleaned it up and it has been trouble free.

Also look out for any breaks in the wire harness going to the Ringmaster. It moves a lot and wires can eventually break, similar to the Balrog on LOTR.

Hi Guys

Just wrapping up my CV and have a couple stickers for targets that I’m not sure where they go. Can you assist please? See pic below. Thank you

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Top one is skill shot, middle goes on the red stand-up in front of the pop bumper on the right and the bottom goes on the Simba target on the left behind the menagerie ball.

Thank you kindly bob

For what it’s worth and I’m sure most already know this, removing the ring masters head, at least for me, was difficult as the rubber was kind of hard! After I cleaned it up and prior to reinstalling I heated it with a heat gun and man that really helped big time. Would be afraid to heat prior to removal as this may cause damage to the play field but just some thoughts.

Hi Guys
Wondering if what I am experiencing has been seen before and if there is a fix? Balls seem to be getting hung up on the ramp that sets up for multi ball. There are rheee distinct switches upstream of the spike which allows balls to go down to the play field. So, the spike is not an issue but rather the switches specifically the arm. Maybe bending it a little so that it takes less force to pass by the switch. Appreciate the input. Thank you. Trying to get this beast dialed in

Replace them with roller switches. It's a known issue.

Thank you very much. Roller switches would certainly solve the issue wonderfully. Any chance that you have any part numbers as well as a source?

Thank you again. This is exactly the kind of information I was seeking!! Known issue. It’s like navigating a boat and getting local knowledge of an area. Indispenceable. Thank you again

Think I found it. 5647-12693-06

Yes, that's what I bought from Pinball Life in 2017.

Jason

Thank you all. This kind of information is simply invaluable and why this site is such a necessity for anyone in this avocation. Are there any other “known issues” that I should be planning for as I debug this machine? How about software? I understand though, I think, if software is updated a new larger capacity chip needs to be installed as well?

I remain grateful guys

G