hello CV lovers. I've share a video of the CV proto gameplay with the prototype software and the old ringmaster voice before it was re-recorded.
The ringmaster had 2 voices because it has been recorded a second time during the prototype phase. The old ringmaster has a completly different voice.
Also, there have been a lot of changes, the center insert was targetting the ring 2 feature and the Ringmaster mode was limited in time. The ball lock was also different and so on...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cirqus-voltaire-prototype-story-and-design-changes/page/4#post-5720683

CV1 (resized).jpg

CV2 (resized).jpg

New ball stick location discovered! This is what my daughter did the other day. My son did it today. Ball "disappeared" when Ringmaster magnet shook it off, & ball falls into cabinet when pulling out PF partway.

This time, I figured out where it got stuck:
Sitting on a plastic at the back
Resting against a plastic hold-down nut & the switch on the underside of the ramp.
(not resting on that switch's wires, despite appearances)

I don't see an easy & elegant fix for this trap spot.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
-Jason

IMG_20200707_151444 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200707_151532 (resized).jpg

Well - you know what I'm going to say - replace the ramp switch with an MRS on the side or the bottom of the ramp (further down)....ball won't get stuck then....just an option...not the end all, be all...

OMG, the Ringmaster voice is SO much better now. That voice sucks!

Anyone help why my Acrobats shot rolls off the wire form, down the LHS of the plastics (against the wood) and then back onto the wire form to my left flipper?

Hi! New CV owner. I am having an interesting plunger auto launch problem. Auto launch will work a few times in a row, and then weakly launch. It will then launch full power.

Any ideas on where to look to try and fix?

Thanks!

The manual/auto launchers can have issues like yours if: The barrel spring is crushed and allows the the plunger rod to protrude into the auto launcher tangs. This will make the ball sit off of the auto launcher tangs and fire irratically. Auto launcher tangs are not sitting directly on the ball when it's sitting in the launch lane. This causes the ball to fire weak. Plunger is hitting the auto launcher mech when pulled back. This causes the auto launcher to fire weak and erattic. Hope this helps.

This does help and makes sense. I'll check it out.

Thanks!

That ramp is a tough one to get dialed-in just right so that weaker shots will still make it and fast ones will not fly off at that first bend at the top. Try bending the wireform a bit to give it a little bank to the turn then adjust the clear plastic airball protector over that turn down REALLY close to the wireform until it is almost touching a ball sitting on there.

Not in the club any longer but still have a set of NOS scrolls with mounting screw packet & instruction sheet, NOS Ringmaster and NOS playfield upgrade kit. These are all original WMS and not IPB repro’s so if anyone needs these, PM me.

Sad to see mine go, was fun while it lasted.

12E004CC-8B9F-4FF1-9732-965D2C2A234C (resized).jpeg

sure his new owner will apreciate the beauty of this game

Anyone out there that knows of a CV in decent shape that is actually for sale, please let me know. Cash in hand and ready to purchase the right machine!!

Thank you

Hello All
Well I found a CV that I was able to secure for a reasonable price so I respectfully request admission, on a probationary term, to the club!

I need a few things and was hoping for some input if possible. First off I need a new cabinet decal for the coin door portion of the game. This game was routed and I want to remove the anti theft bar mounts and freshen up the face. Any suggestions for high quality decals? Also, game does not have leds so this is a must. I have used coin taker in the past but wanted some input. Have heard good things about comet too. Last but not least, I plan to replace the existing dmd with a color version. This game just seems to demand it. Please weigh in. I remain grateful

I really like the color DMD in my CV. It pairs really well with being down near the playfield. I also think changing the bulbs to LEDs make the bright colors in the playfield and inserts really pop. If you change the GIs and inserts I’d also recommend the LED OCD and GI OCD boards from herg One of the cooler aspect is of CV is all the dimming of the GIs. It’s hard to eliminate strobing of LEDs without the OCD boards.

You'll definitely want the led and gi ocd boards. I tried a bunch of ghosting and non ghosting bulbs and they all flickered like crazy without the boards. Pretty sure most/all CV ( and other wpc95 games ) came from the factory with coin door bars and the holes to mount them.

Are these boards that you speak of easy to integrate to the machine or is this a very technical issue

Easy but not cheap.

CV looks amazing with incandescent. Please consider keeping it original.

I agree it looks great with incandescents too. I don't think you can go wrong either way (unless you start going bonkers with color LED bulbs). If you're putting in a Color DMD the LEDs on the DMD are going to be pretty bright. If you swap in LED bulbs I wouldn't use anything too bright. Just single SMD LEDs with warm or sunlight white. Cool white doesn't fit this game as well. You could use some color LEDs for the inserts but I'd keep most everything some shade of white.

It's technical and expensive but also not necessary. I love my game with LEDs without OCD. I even lit up PF more with spotlights and I really enjoy the strobe of GI when you hit the BOOM! The mod thats a must have is the black out mod by PinBits. That will allow your GI in the BB to blackout when the game calls for the GI on the PF to black out. It makes for a really special cool lighting effect during BOOM, High Wire, Video Mode and Fire That Cannon.

Ditto, unless you go full GI / LED OCD boards you have to turn off GI dimming and even then the quick on/off transitions of LEDs has never looked right to me. You can change the GI over to LED without the OCD board as long as you use something like the the Comet one SMDs or Retro style if you really want to save power / heat from the #47s. It's all personal preference of course but I like these late WPC5 games with incandescent bulbs for home use.

I went on the LED OCD site and I guess I really didn’t mind the look of the leds without the ocd boards. The boards seem to me to take the leds and have them operate more like incandescents. I’ll have to think about this situation a bit more. The color dmd is on its way and I think that will make a nice improvement.

The play field is pretty dirty and will need to be waxed. I don’t plan to tear it all down so will be doing this by hand as opposed to mechanically. I think I have a good wax (P21S) but what would you suggest using to clean the play field prior to waxing?

Novus 2

Welcome. It's a wild ride.

Straight from the factory, this is visually one of the loudest, gaudiest machines ever.
Its color palette is freaky.

And it's great
Just.
Like.
That.
It's an insane circus fer cryin; out loud!

It doesn't need color "accents" or "highlights."
Ugh. Those just look forced or wacky or cast 1 color of light across an area of artwork that's jammed full of all sorts of manic colors.

Color-matched LEDs under colored inserts (or go white--doesn't really make a difference).
Cool white LEDs for GI & every other light (or warm white, per personal preference).
Keep the DMD monochrome.

I *did* add the GI blackout PCB. Inexpensive, trivial to install, makes some of the lighting modes more dramatic.

The GI OCD looks attractive. The LEDs do flicker a fair amount, which is a nuisance. But I understand it requires hooking up to a PC for programming before installing in the game, which is a turn-off for me.

My $0.02. Let the opinions fly! =D

Thanks,
-Jason

PS: when I tore down the PF for restoration, I also removed forced colors by using clear posts, clear star posts, clear rubber (including flipper rubbers), & silver chrome flippers (OK, replacing white w/ chrome isn't really a color removal...ya got me...)

Hi Guys

Thank you for all the kind reply’s. I am grateful. Getting the game dialed in the the help of a local tech. Great tech! Thank you ed!
Wondering if anyone has replaced their dmd and maybe if there is a video out there showing the process. I already ordered the color dmd. Just think it will look great but respect those that just feel the orange screen is fine. Have a bunch of misc stuff orders including some nos scrolls which should really help the game. Ordered new cabinet decals as well. New legs, leds. Can’t wait to have it all together. Thanks all

The ColorDMD install is very easy, shouldn't need a video to guide you and it definitely makes the game more enjoyable IMO.

No, it doesn't.
You ONLY need to hook it up if you don't like the default settings, or want to customize something.

Oooh! Thanks for the correction!

Happy to learn!

1. So, how does the GI OCD perform out of the box when installed in a CV?
2. Does it dim all GI LEDs smoothly?
3. Does it also make the backbox GI LEDs follow the same behavior as the PF LEDs? (thereby obviating the need for the Blackout PCB)

Thanks!
-Jason

1. It will be acceptable - you WILL see a difference! Whether or not you can improve it or not, that's hard to say. ESPECIALLY if you have 3rd party power boards installed.
2. Yes.
3. I honestly do not remember this one, sorry.

Hello, recently ive adquire a cirqus and the previous owner swap the neon to leds 12v.
When i boot the game, the "neon" is ON and all seams ok, when i start the game the "neon" does nothing, i supose this is not normal.
Questions:
- Do i have to wait some amount of time, to warm up the "neon" (setting - 'Neon ON Time') ?
- Incorrect plug of the led on the 12v connect (Swaping the wires) can damage the chip that controls this?
- Things to check?

Thanks in advance.

To answer your question - put a freakin' neon back in.

To get technical - Some of the neon tubes were filled with Argon and coated with phosphor. (And some used colored glass as well. By mixing the gas, phosphor, and glass color, you can make a 'neon' tube in almost any color.) Phosphor will be dimmer the colder it is - and it cools down when the neon/gas is off. So, CV's ROM has 'Neon ON Time' and 'Neon OFF Time'. When the OFF time has been reached - including game time off - then the game will turn ON the neon for as long as the Neon ON Time - to warm up the phosphor and make sure the tube is as bright as it can be.

With clear glass tubes - red for neon, blue-white for argon - the On/Off time isn't needed. And unless you're a purist, you can usually set the On/Off time to 0 for phosphor tubes, as well. LEDs don't need those settings. Turn them off.

Does it go on and off in the neon tests? If so then it should work properly in game.

Also - put some awesome neon glow back in there!!

Thanks for the explanation

Didnt know you have a neon test

Well to resume it, ive left the machine plugged for about 5 minuts and.... after that time the "neon" started blinking in attrack mode, thing that never have done before, but during the game nothing happens, never reach the neon multiball, i belive the game still have the original ROM.

Really hard to properly diagnose with LEDs. The game uses PWM for effects on the neon, which may not be compatible with that LED strip. Also, NEON multiball - if I remember Cameron's odds correctly - was 1 in 100 on the first shot to Sideshow. (Without entering in the secret code before game start.) But, for example, the neon will glow on then glow off when you shoot up the highwire ramp.

It should light when you start highwire multiball, flash when you hit certain jackpots and also when you charge the boom balloon I believe. It's not used too much but it is used pretty frequently.

You can get a good idea of how and when it should light from this PAPA video:

My general idea is to change it for a neon for sure, just want to make that hardware/software wise is working as it should.
Thanks

I will check it, btw very nice gameplay

If the LEDs are turning on at all, then everything works up to the point where this LED addition is. So, hardware works.
If the sotware isn't working - but it is, even pre-v2.0h - there's not much you could do *anyways*.

Wuzza wuzza whaaaah?

You can find it easily.
Cameron put it into a beta when we were testing v2.0H, to test some multiball stacking and other things. He was going to remove it in the final release, but we (the beta testers) asked for him to leave it in. It agreed, if we didn't tell anyone about it. AFAIK, we never did, but someone else reverse-engineered the software and found the code.

Welcome Neon

pasted_image (resized).png

Added inner art blades today! Amazing look!!

117944923_685752072151734_5788962732616639247_n (resized).jpg

117445371_2728578950765150_3415739791268407308_n (resized).jpg

117747227_3183697065070505_6946442304642787679_n (resized).jpg

117841275_2736290050029862_3659037602360031949_n (resized).jpg

Hi, I recently acquired a CV in beautiful condition but I just can't sleep at night knowing that I don't have the scrolls. If someone has a set to sell please pm me.
Thanks

Those inner blades look great. Something to consider as I rehab my CV. Question: wondering if the screw stop the ringmaster I have is incorrect. Was thinking this should be a recessed (countersunk) screw. Does anyone know for sure? The attached photo is what I presently have. Would then think that the “WOW” sticker would cover the screw??

22AF5E67-99C2-46FB-B09D-C1BFF5D731C7 (resized).jpeg

It should definitely be a countersunk screw, I don't believe the decal covers the screw typically so that you can access the screw without damaging the WOW decal should you need to remove the top. I usually put a small piece of mylar over the top of the screw to make sure the ball doesn't get stuck on the screw too but that's usually not necessary.

Thank you Bobukat!! Was thinking that what I had was probably not right. The new decal that I received though for the top does not have any hole in it though?? Your idea sounds. Good. If I remove that screw does just the top come off or do tjeee things fall apart at the same time?

No, just the top will come off, have no fear. I just cut a very small x in the decal with an exacto knife but you could probably just punch a hole through it too.