Be sure that you spread the contact wires on each of those wedge based bulbs before you install them into their respective holders. Not doing so could cause some of the bulbs not to work due to bad connections. You might think that the bulbs are defective when their really not.

Can someone please tell me what color rubbers were intended to be on the game when it was originally released? I have been looking at a ton of photos, and 1/2 are white, and 1/2 are black. I'm about to go replace mine. I know a lot of people will say 'whatever you think looks best' but I don't really know what I like more, so I thought I'd check to see what the intended color was.

It is possible it was changed during production, but both my Sample games came with white.

In the past, white was bouncier than black. So you didn't select the color based on looks, it preferred game play. Nowadays, no telling.

Working on the next batch of MRS' - PM if interested!

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I have not had any luck bending my ringmaster back in position but I did install a set of tiltgraphics blades. I am really happy with how they look!

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New MRS product announcement....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927

Question , I picked up a very nice CV today . When I was checking out the game the ring master after hitting the ball inside did not go down.. kept hearing the noise etc. put the game in test it was was fine when up middle down , passed all test turned the game back on and he went up and down fine .

I went ahead a got the game it’s in my car hopefully it was a weird anomaly wondering what could have happened ?

Game looks to be HUO so not to worried , wont have a chance to setup till Tomm night or Monday .

Similar to the Balrog in LOTR and the cannons in STTNG, the wiring harness that goes to the Ringmaster can get broken wires. My CV had that issue when I got it. Not too hard to repair. Just look for stressed/crimped areas in the harness and cut back the insulation to expose the bad wires. A meter might also be helpful to find any breaks.

OR, it could just be a switch adjustment...

Seems to work fine now I think I may have accidentally bumped the coin door open causing it . I had something similar happen while playing at home .

This thing is very nice .. only some slight wear but one of the volts which is surprising given the rest of the game is perfect and it has very minimal ghosting for a CV, perfect cabinet etc.

Any tips on repair appreciated I know their have the overlays .

Joined the club this thing is damn new perfect except this one volt rollover. Odd given the condition of the rest of the game. Any tips appreciated, love this game!

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Hi fellas i'm looking for a set of new trim for the back glass lift one left right and top;
if anyone got an address it seems to be out of stock everywhere.
Thank u all

Put a Prototype CV Neon Ramp on ebay along with a bunch of other NOS parts:

Prototype Cirqus Voltaire Neon Ramp w/ working Orange Neon
ebay.com link: itm

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Just fitted GI OCD and boy what a difference! Already had the insert led board fitted which should be standard on every led converted pin.
Much more atmospheric with the GI dimming and flashing smoothly, highly recommended.

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I am back up an fully operational. After upgrading my ringmaster ball trough and spring , they did not line up and would hit the playfield. My husband has been nagging me to try and get it working for several weeks but we worked on it together and got it working! Apparently I was not bending the spring hard enough.

It feels great having all 3 pins up and working now!

Lostcause - Thanks for the positive comments about the OCD LED boards. I have been debating getting them but questioned if it would really make much of a difference. You pushed me over the edge, I will order the insert and GI ones tonight!

Dang it, they are sold out of the GI light one!

I picked up a CV a couple weeks ago and absolutely love it. I noticed there's a pinsound board for it, does anyone have one and is open to providing feedback? I can't seem to find a video or anything to hear if there's much of a difference.

I have pinsound in mine and the original sound file sounds very good, can’t fault it.
Don’t know where it came from as it was in there already along with The greatest Showman mix, which isn’t too bad.

Pinsound with original and Greatest Showman mix which my Daughter/granddaughter love.
You should also see the leds dimming, insert and GI.

I can actually tell that sounds better! Thanks . I will probably pick one up, and a GI OCD in the near future.

I just finished putting in a Pinshakers motor kit in my CV. The install took a little longer than when I put a Pinshaker in my FH.

This standard kit came with two cables to shake on many different features of the pin.

I set it up to shake mainly when the RM is hit. I think it is a nice addition.

I now have seven out of eleven pins with shakers.

gonna have to try one of those...

To be clear only FH and CV have the Pinshakers. The Pinshakers is great because it will go in so many pins without a hassle. The new version is even better.

Putting a shaker in LOTR was a problem trying to find all the chips. Glad I found them all eventually.

My MM has one of the old Pinbits shaker kits and I love it. If I play a MM without that shaker it just sucks. I can't imagine having one in CV.

I was able to get a GI OCD from Comet.

Installed the GI OCD video doesn’t do it justice it’s a must have IMO this game has so many GI fade effects .

My kids have been playing more pinball lately, during quarantine.

I don't know how my 4-year-old girl did this to the CV in the 15 minutes or so that she was playing, but when I showed up:

1. Screen telling player to shoot, but no ball in shooter lane.
2. Ball search kicking in.
3. Ball missing.
4. Credit dot.
5. Where's the ball? It went back there, gesturing somewhere towards back right.
6. Power off. I'll fix this later.

Later

7. Confirm 3 balls.
8. Test report shows 3 switch problems.
9. Pull playfield. When pulling out, hear a CLUNK at the back of the cabinet. I don't know where the ball was, but it fell off the PF into the cabinet as soon as I pulled the PF out a little. That's a new one.
10. One flagged switch was in the backbox. Go into coil test to shoot the backbox ball a few times. Click. Click. Click.
11. WHERE'S THE CANNONBALL!??!?!
12. Oh, it's wedged in the very top right of the backbox, stuck between a flasher & the right frame. That's a new one.
13. Pull backbox assembly, tilt it over to tip the ball out.
14. Another flagged switch: upper jet bumper. Both skirt switches needed cleaning. I *had* noticed the lower one being a bit lethargic, so I can't pin that one on my daughter.
15. Another flagged switch: right loop upper. OK, this one actually does come up pretty regularly but then it clears. Switch works when pressed by my finger. Switch actuates when a ball rolls over it. Kooky.

Well, it's great when what looks like a handful of issues are actually non-issues.

Phew!

-Jason

Now you discovered why operators didn't like CV very much back in the day

I would bet the ball was stuck in the ringmaster mech. If the transition to the short subway to the VUK isn't just perfect and the wires aren't out of the way it can get stuck there then when you pull the PF it falls into the cab. Other than under the end of the highwire lock wireform that's the only place I've ever seen it get stuck on CV.

Sooo, I think my balls are a little magnetized. Turned off the machine mid-game & came back about 6 hours later & did a double-take when I saw this.

-Jason

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Why is your RM up? He should be level with the playfield when game is off.

Not if you turn off the game before the ring master lowers

Epilogue:

16. Went to play CV yesterday.
17. Kids say, "It doesn't work! Katherine was playing it & it stopped working!"
18. "But I just fixed up everything!"
19. Start game.
20. No balls.
21. Did I forget to put the balls back in a couple of days ago? That's unlikely. I always rest them on the lock bar receiver or on the next game. I don't think I've ever misplaced a set of balls before.
22. Look everywhere. Yup. No balls in there. I'll put 4 new balls in & the others will turn up sometime.
23. Playing along fine.
24. Shoot left orbit.
25. Ball disappears.
26. "That's what happened to me, Daddy! The ball disappeared & then the green guy went up & down!"
27. Lift PF.
28. There's a traffic jam of FIVE BALLS in the upper center/left subway entrance.
29. "I found the balls!"
30. No idea how they got stuck.
31. I raked the pitch up a little bit to discourage any jam here.

What kid-induced surprises will next week hold!!?!??

-Jason

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High Wire kickout.

I swear it used to kick out just 1 if I had a couple locked up there & it needed to get 1 back.

The last few times it's kicked out, the lock post goes down & stays down, allowing all 3 to dump.

All 3 switches seem to register nicely, I'm using the fancy roller-arm switches.
The post moves freely. The post kicks down & up very quickly during coil test. So, I don't think the post is binding.

Does this behavior indicate a switch issue?

Thanks!
-Jason

Usually, yes, the game will long-pulse that coil if the expected number of balls in there don't match what is actually in there.

I would play a game, and when you get to the point where it's going to drop all the balls, quickly go into switch test, and see what switches are active. (Without lifting, moving, or doing anything with the playfield.)

Thanks for the feedback.
The switches all behave in self-test.
I tried gameplay to get 3 balls in the high wire lock, then went into switch test. All 3 switches closed nicely.

Test 1: Player 1 lock 2 balls, then drain. Player 2 lock 1 ball. Game says "watch for ramp kickout", does long coil pulse, dropping all 3 balls.
Test 2: After doing multiball for a player, putting the ball on the ramp will advance towards strike an arc. Player 1 lock 2 balls. Player 2 put a 3rd ball on the ramp. Game says something about "X more for strike an arc" & does a short pulse, dropping just 1 ball nicely.

So, appears to be how it's coded, unless there's a switch registration nuance.

In other news, if the 2nd or 3rd balls come in hot, they can jam the 1st ball up off the wireform a little and sort of bind it between the lock post & the overhead guide. This can then hamper the ball release entirely.
Is a solution to bend that overhead guide down a little to prevent the 1st ball from shifting upward?

Thanks,
-Jason

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Yeah, something else is going on. (I only say this because I worked with Cameron in beta-testing, and he did a lot of code updates and tweaks to get the ramp kickout working right. This means that I played so many games with the glass off, trying to 'break' his code and find bugs.) What's going on in yours, though.. really, really hard to say. I never had the rollers in my game - I never had issue with the stock switch-ends. (I *ALSO* never had to install the service bulletin fixes; though I know other beta-testers HAD installed it.)

Yup!

I guess that begs the question "what ROM is he running in the game?"

True. I assume a lot, and always assume folks are on 2.0h..!

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, ROM version 2.0H.
Wow, that "roof" of the wireform above the switches is beefy. I squeezed w/ channel locks pretty hard & didn't budge it. I'm not going to squeeze any harder.

Did encounter a Watch For Ramp Kickout scenario today.
It behaved this time. Kicked out 1 ball. I eyed the balls before the kickout. They were seated nicely.

I wager I get the misbehavior when ball 1 is wedged up a little off the 1st switch.
I'll keep an eye on it & report back if there's anything interesting to share.

Thanks,
-Jason

Yeah, while I don't have my CVs anymore, it's possible that the first ball is riding up and then sitting back down. Possible that would cause it. And yeah, the ramp is strong. I did bend mine on both of my CVs back in the day.

MAYBE you can adjust the switches, to give them more 'activating' room, so that when the first ball bounces up, the switch doesn't deactivate.

Go figure. Not magnetized balls.
The WOW decal had debonded a little & was shaped like a volcano around the screw head.

So, the ball was mechanically resting in a little mini depression. Enough to make the magnet have trouble kicking it off.

Solution: a little Liquid Control Loctite Super Glue under the decal & mush it back down.

Much better now!

-Jason

One thing I suggest is to just make sure all of those lock switches are replaced with new ones. They also must be synchronized (make all the same way) Once I did this to my machine it worked perfect every time. The CV lock works much the same as the one in Champion Pub. I had to do the very same thing in that game to get the machine operate the lock correctly. If just one of those switches breaks contact, then the game will drop the balls out of the lock. In my CP it would happen during a fight. Very frustrating!

Is it still possible to get a pinbits ringmaster protector? It's out of stock on their site and they've replied to none of my emails. $70 for the other protectors out there seems kind of insane to me.

Little on the expensive side but very effective. Might be worth the bills. I have the first protector (old one) in my game.

I read people had issues with the metal protector catching I think, I went with the Revolutionary pinball version and don’t regret it. Very easy to fit and I didn’t need adjustment anywhere. Straight on.

I would advise you just skip the RM protectors all together, don't think they are necessary and they mess up gameplay.

Same here. I called them about 3 weeks ago and she told me that they are making more and to check back in ~4 weeks. Hopefully they have them back in stock soon. DO NOT BUY THE MOD COUPLE PLASTIC ONE! I made that mistake and had a hell of a time trying to return it when it did not work for me.

Yes it does make the shot harder as it can just bounce back from the spring when it would have probably gone down, but that was just a very easy shot. After fitting the protector it requires a bit more skill. Was too easy anyway.