Cut a line through it with a dremel and small cut off disc then use a flathead screwdriver to back it out?

Get the 04-10253 and modify it. I did it in my CV. Just drill a new hole in the new part.

Not necessarily, If you have a Dremel with a carbide blade you can cut a slot in the screw. Then use a standard slot screwdriver to remove it.

Is a replacement available? Looks like a special screw. Additionally is there a guide to removing the ringmaster? Thanks!

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I think a small tip Phillips may take it out. You should get the CV manual. It has part numbers and instructions for all parts removal.
I put in a machine screw with a domed top. The ball spins around the screw. Mine had a flat top screw when I got the CV. The ball stayed in the middle of the RM head.

It’s not a special screw but it’s not something you can just walk into Home Depot and find. Fastenal should have them. It’s an: oval head #10 stainless steel screw

If you've got some gumption & the right tool, you can use a Dremel w/ a cutoff disk & carefully widen one of those Phillips slots to be big enough to accommodate a flathead screwdriver.
I've done it plenty of times, but never inside the sensitive environment of a pinball machine.
You'd have to do some seriouspants shielding/masking to contain all the debris.
[Whoops, saw others recommending the same.]

Other options:
Try a small Phillips driver--tap it in gently w/ a hammer, tapping as hard as you're comfortable. Use as much downforce as you can while you back out the screw.
Or you get can some success w/ a stripped-out Phillips head (not really stripped in this case, so technique may not apply) by tapping w/ a small flathead screwdriver w/ hammer to try to bite into one of the remaining slots on the +.

There are also screw back-out tools that can bite & back out a screw, plus a sort of barbed mesh you can stuff in a stripped screw & then cram your Phillips into it to try to get purchase. But those 2 techniques are more for stripped-out heads, where the cavity is too large to grip w/ your driver. Your screw has the opposite problem...

Please report back after giving it a go--this is golden information to share!

Thanks,
-Jason

Hi, they were designed and sold buy a guy on a German forum. You had to put your name down at the time and no more have been made yet.
He is working on a gi version too. I bought 4, wish I had bought 10 as they were about €35.

Hello fellow pinsiders. I have a very nice cv Im considering letting go. Chrome apron and rails, color dmd , mirror blades, "sample"model with scrolls for head(not installed at this time. Excellent condition. Im thinking in the 7500 obo range. Located in south fl. Pm with any questions or thoughts.

Well the most expensive game of operation I’ve ever played is over. Used my dremmel to cut a pretty deep slot and ended up having to use an impact gun to get the screw out. Waiting for the replacement from pinbits, but the difficult part is over. I ended up cutting even a little deeper than the photo shows.
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The Ringmaster has been scalped, good work!

I have the same problem mine is missing and was replaced with a post rubber split and glued to the end of the ramp which made the ball go sideways!
I have been looking and the only way I can get one is to buy a monster bash right ramp and take it off, but then I thought hold it a minute a remake has just come out!
Can anyone check to see if these are available on the pic it is ‘H’ from Chicago Gaming co.
I’m in the uk so much harder to get anything☹️
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Part No:01-14844
Available from
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14844

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=01-14844
https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/ball-guide-guard/

Blue rubber bumper
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=626-5057-00
https://www.pinball.co.uk/spares-accessories/blue-rubber-23-6766/
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-blue-rubber-bumper-23-6766.html

Sweet so we can get one without messing about.
Thanks for that, I had a spare new square blue pad that I just stuck on earlier. Should last a while until I get the guard.

Fitted a ringmaster plastic protector today, just fits around the ringmaster and not the whole ringmaster plastic. About an inch wide, enough to stop the edge getting cracked.

Custom made in uk.

https://www.colspinballmods.com/

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When shooting the ball, the ball is supposed to go around the ringmaster correct?

Mine shoots the ball where it bounces and stalls and rolls down to the flippers.

Is there a common fix?

Are you talking about a shot from one of the flippers (which) or a ball plunge? Plunge / launch should be aiming for the skill shot target that is facing the end of the shooter lane. Soft plunges will hit below it or completely miss the end of the ramp and head towards the left flipper. Hard plunges will usually go into the gap for the Juggler kick-out and can end bouncing around and heading down the middle.

Solid flipper shots to either side of the SPIN loop should be smooth and hitting the right side of the loop will often lead to a SDTM though both sides can be a bit dangerous in that regards.

I use ROM 1.4 so I am not able to use the Pinbits Top Eddy board. What should I do to update my current board? I'm registering about 60% of the hits currently

Is there a reason you don't want to use 2.0 home rom? Have you adjusted it using the pot on the board?

It’s on location
There’s no pot on that particular board

Thank you!
It’s the plunge, sounds like mine is doing the proper thing, what shooter spring is the right one? I think I used the one the manual suggests, but I’m thinking it may be too much spring

Has anyone installed GIOCD and LEDOCD on a CV? Id like to install LEDs in mine but was getting some noticeable pulsing with both non -ghosting and regular comet LEDs. Not flickering completely off and on, but still annoying. It was happening in both the GI and controlled lamps.

Any suggestions for replacing the bulbs in the light boards under the ringmaster? Do I really have to take the whole ringmaster assembly and subway out?

Unfortunately, the ringmaster has to come off. I do not see any way around it.

Yep it sucks. Also you might want to take a close look at those light boards. They tend to have loose solder joints that crop up once you pull on the plugs.

I had the same problem. Just ended up changing the board. But I was able to squeeze it in just removing the subways.

I constructed a stick out of wood with a slot on the end the size of the lamp socket in the hopes I wouldn’t have to remove the ringmaster. Unfortunately it never seemed to work. Sometimes sockets turn real easy and sometimes they don’t. I have two bright orange WOW LEDs and one significantly less bright one, it’s kind of irritating, but I figure at some point I’ll have another reason to remove the ringmaster and I can improve the WOW lights as well.

I have a version of ocd (Afterglow) which is great, looks much better and when you hit the ringmaster the lights operate correctly- it will only light the current lamp then the previous light up with it, before it lit all previous lamps as well. Sure this is right unless I was drinking too much!

Speaking of the ringmaster I have a blueprint of him on ebay right now if you are interested.
ebay.com link: pinballvault

Anyone looking to sell one ?
I would be interested

Anyone have any custom scorecards you could share for this game? Thanks!

I had Mr_Tantrum print me a set of these. He prints them on nice photo paper and laminates them they are really nice and glossy. If you don't want to do it yourself like me.

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I pulled the ringmaster to replace the bulbs and now am getting a switch 16 "top eddy" error. I didn't touch the eddy board and have looked all over and am pretty sure I plugged everything back in and no wires are shorted. Everything else works fine. Any suggestions on where to go from here?

If you put the game in switch test and roll a ball over it does it register?

Well not sure what happened but it started working again. Hmm...

It did and nothing weird with the rest of the switches in the same row/column. Will have to keep an eye on it I guess.

I am joining the club this weekend! This will be my first non-NIB pin and I am very excited.

I like this apron cover. Any idea who made it? I think it is perfect for a HUO game.

After some more searching I fount the apron online at pinballdecals. Dang, they want almost $500 for it!

Fitted the ringmaster protector, went straight on without any need for any adjustment or shims.

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where did u get it please

Hey guys - just making a repro part announcement. I began making repro MRS' (as found in CV) earlier this year - but only announced on the RFM page (they are handmade and didn't want to get overwhelmed with orders). I wanted to branch out a little more to other pin clubs that utilize this crazy unobtanium switch....the MRS stands for Magnetic Reed Switch - and they are also found in NGG, NBAFB, SWEP1, SC and CC ...the went unobtanium almost a dozen years ago or so - so my partner and I at M&M Creations decided to remake them. Our MRS is plug/play - it is lighter, thinner and more sensitive than the original MRS. You can see a pic of the repro MRS solo and in a lineup with an original Williams MRS, a Sega MRS (used in Maverick, Space Jam and SW:Trilogy) and a repro M&M Creations MRS. I'm going to start making some more again (a good winter thing to do) and wanted to get a list going...just PM if interested!

Matt & Dan

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I have two questions for you guys:

1) Would this switch be a viable replacement for the highwire wireform?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ball-detect-blade-with-roller-sub-microswitch.html

2) Has anyone replaced their glass with PDI or other anti-reflective glass on CV? I have not seen anyone mention this in this thread. I have two other pins that both have anti-reflective glass and am thinking I will want to repalce the glass on my CV that I am picking up tomorrow. Is this a good upgrade for this pin?
https://www.pinballdecals.com/NonGlareOpticalGlassPage.html

I used PDI. I have Invisiglass, Magic Glass and PDI. The PDI is the best one for antiglare. It also won the comparison tests.

Thank You for posting this.

Got a pic? Wireform's are tricky with MRS' due to the ferrous content of the wireforms - they can trigger the MRS....so I'd have to see a closeup pic to know for sure - but I'd say at best 50/50...

Sorry for the dumb question but what are these? I tried a google search for MRS pinball but did not get the answer I was looking for? Are these replacements for a broken component or do they have some kind of advantage over what came stock in the game? Thanks!