(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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There are 1055 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 22.
#51 5 years ago

Geez......the prices of CV and other pins are really crazy now. I bought most of mine back in the late 90's and early 2000's.

I think I paid $1700 for mine, from a distributor, used. Those were the days.

#52 5 years ago

working on the restoration.....

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#53 5 years ago

I bought my CV about 5 years ago. Love it and it will never leave. I have actually thought about sending the HEP to give it the royal treatment.

#54 5 years ago

Wow, those led'ed ones on the first page look really crazy! Pretty cool.

A short story on my CV.
I bought my routed CV from a Dutch dealer about 4 months ago. Judging to some paperwork that was inside the machine, it was once on route in Italy. This usually isn't a great foresight. Italian operators are known for overfusing and hacking and just not taking good care of their pinball machines in general. Which leads to machines that are generally in bad shape.

My machine was actually overfused so badly on the power driver, that it had burned a couple of diodes away. The fuse on F1 was a 8a, if I recall correctly. The problem didn't stop there: one of the connectors near the transformer got burned and broke off because of the overfusing. That made sure that the machine stopped working. It took me a while to find this burned wire and fix it.

Ironically, this overfusing and the malfunction that occurred from it, is what actually 'saved' the game from the punishment that most Italian routed machines got. My guess is that the machine stopped working early in its operating life. It was probably deemed unfixable, shoved into a corner somewhere and sat there for years until it was bought and shipped to The Netherlands, where I live.

Why do I think this? Well, to me, this game is a diamond in the rough. Its playfield is beautiful. Plastics are great. No under playfield hacks. Original flipper parts that are in good shape. The game even had the original goodie bag inside it. All in all, dirty as it may be, this is a very low mileage machine. I'm thrilled with it. Now that I fixed it technically, I can't wait to shop it and make it reach and hopefully surpass its former glory.

a very nice playfield
no bad inserts
just a tiny bit of damage near the volt button

Thanks for reading! I'll post some new pictures after clearcoating and shopping it.

Post edited by Jappie: typo

#55 5 years ago

A funny detail: the tax papers of the Italian operator were inside the cabinet of my machine. I might give her (yes, a female operator) a ring someday to ask how pinball operating business is going.
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#56 5 years ago

someone know where i need to stick this decal?

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#57 5 years ago

Happy to store it in my game room for my Pops

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#58 5 years ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

someone know where i need to stick this decal?

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I thought it was just a promo item in the goody bag?

#59 5 years ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

i have a lot of missing parts. who can tell me which? and the ball is prototype! hahahahahahahahhahaahh

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Holy crap, that thing is rough as shit. I hope you got it dirt cheap. It's going to take a lot to get that going. If you paid more than $2500 in that condition, you paid to much.

#61 5 years ago

Here's mine I picked up at the end of august. My grail pin. Been after one for 15 years!

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#62 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumbosinbad360:

Here's mine I picked up at the end of august. My grail pin. Been after one for 15 years!

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Congrats! I know what's it like, only took me 4 years but still felt like forever.

#63 5 years ago

I was listening to a recording of J-Pop at the 2011 Chicago Expo and he mentioned that he would sign his sample games "by the bottom". I never knew or heard of this. Anyone have any idea where he would sign the CV sample games?

#64 5 years ago

Your mother drives a dump truck!

#65 5 years ago

Sooo want one of these - maybe in a months time................

#66 5 years ago
Quoted from Dbaum88:

Oh and I have the laser mod in back left corner in green and pink that really fits with this game.

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I would also like to know what this laser mod is!

#67 5 years ago
Quoted from ItsOnlyPinball:

"DO YOUR WORST!"...still is my favorite insult.

I like "YOUR MOTHER DRIVES A DUMP TRUCK!" even better...

#68 5 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

I'll post some new pictures after clearcoating and shopping it.

Just a very friendly tip: The inserts may start ghosting if you clearcoat it.

My CV had perfect C - I - R - Q - U - S inserts. It was touched up and clearcoated professionally lately. On the first ball the Inserts started ghosting, took 15 minutes of play and it looked worse than ever before. The problem is that the insert glue used in CV (and obviously only on CV!!!) is not compatible with clearcoat at all. The glue will dissolve slightly making cracks likely which let in air that leads to ghosting. The higher surface tension of the new clearcoat accellerates this process additionally.

This is the reason why the pro's hate to renovate CV PFs and IF they do it they never guarantee success.

#69 5 years ago

Since this seems the right place to post CV info, some more well-meant advice on restoring CV:

1. When the PF is out of the pin check the back rim of the PF where the juggler magnet is, next to the metal clamp that slips onto the security latch in the cab. The PF is extremely weak there and the structure of the wood is often damaged. At some point the whole left back corner may break off the PF when shifting weight on it by pulling out the playfield. During my quest of finding this pin i had 2 CVs offered to me which had this area broken off and badly repaired. I took a Dremel and built an aluminum bracket which re-enforces this area as my PF also had stuctural damage in the wood which was not visible without removing the PF from the cab.
2. Polish all laneguides to mirror finish. I'm usually not a big fan of this kind of heavy modding, but for CV it looks great! Especially the Ringmaster collar and the Acrobats ramp entry laneguide become more or less invisible in the clown-vomit color madness of the playfield when polished.
3. I have had a Ringmaster Ball Cup Bracket custom maufactured in mirror-finish stainless steel. The original zinc bracket is ugly as hell and you can see it when the Ringmaster rises to the top position. The new bracket has a "hall-of-mirrors" effect that blends perfectly into the cirqus theme. I got 3 brackets for free as i allowed the guy who made them to market them, you can buy them at Ministry of Pinball since a few months.
4. If you replace the Ringmaster for a new one you will need to dremel out the back of the Ringmaster. Also it makes sense to have the lumpy part of the magnet coil sit in the FRONT of the Ringmaster, that's why his head is formed the way it is. Doing this will perfectly center his head whithout much hassle.
5. If by coincidence you find the plastic ringmaster protector kit - buy it (sold out since a year or so, was devoloped by Orbit Pinball and later licenced to Pinball decals Inc.)! It's not just a protector but a technical upgrade to correct all the drawbacks of the sub-optimal ringmaster top construction. They don't make it any more as it's crazy expesive to have it produced but sometimes single sets show up for sale.
6. Replace the 3 switches on the Highwire ramp with ones that have roll actuators rather than the original ones with wires.

If anyone's interested i can post detailed instructions and/or pictures of all these fixes and mods.

CV1.jpg

Post edited by someoneelse: added 6.

#70 5 years ago

How much of the RingMaster did you have to dismantle before you could install the Ringmaster Ball Cup Bracket custom maufactured in mirror-finish stainless steel? I will have to check mine to see if the decal is at the bottom of the bracket like yours.

#71 5 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

If anyone's interested i can post detailed instructions and/or pictures of all these fixes and mods.

Please do.

#72 5 years ago
Quoted from sensfreak:

How much of the RingMaster did you have to dismantle before you could install the Ringmaster Ball Cup Bracket custom maufactured in mirror-finish stainless steel? I will have to check mine to see if the decal is at the bottom of the bracket like yours.

You have to completely take the Ringmaster assy apart and even cut/resolder the cables as they run through a hole in the cup bracket.
It's not much of a big deal to remove the ringmaster from the playfield though, so it is managable.

The Jackpot decal wasn't installed on mine originally but it was included in the licenced decal set (2 WOW-decals, spinner decals, etc.) so i used it. Looks nice.

#73 5 years ago

Supporting bracket for Juggler-Area.

Here you can see the problem - the wood is slowly craking up and "desintegrating" (it is hard to tell due to the picture quality, it's really very easy to see in real life). If this continues it's only a matter of time until the corner completely breaks off the playfield:

CV22.jpg
CV23.jpg

I took a 5mm thick aluminum angle and used a dremel to make the cutouts for the switch and the lamp. On the topside i cut away the whole left corner so the security-latch in the cab will still work and can grab the bracket/playfield:

CV24.jpg

#74 5 years ago

This is what it looks like when installed:

CV26.jpg CV27.jpg
#75 5 years ago

"The Ringmaster Problem" ( )

First screw the Ringmaster together all the way and place the pole holding the metal plate for the magnet in the Ringmaster.

Foto 1.JPG

Go around the back half of the metal plate with a pen, so you have the form and size you need to cut out.

Foto 2.JPG

Use a dremel with rotary cutter (i used the one meant for aluminum and it worked great) and carefully cut out the area along the line you marked before (shape of the metal plate). You need to use a cutter/drill that also cuts on the topside to be able to lower it into the plastic. Slowly cut out the shape deeper, stop approx. 1mm above the hole for the screw on the back. I took off tiny layers in many runs and re-checked with the plate if it's deep enough. Do not grind down to close to the screw hole!

Foto 4.JPG

I used a rasp to smoothen out the edges and give it a less rough look...not really necessary.

Foto 5.JPG

In then end it should look something like this:

Foto 6.JPG
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The next "trick" is to use the original screw & nut for the lower hole, but you need a philips head or slotted screw to be able to fasten the upper screw as with the metal plate now in way there is no tool you could use to fasten a hex head screw. The head of the screw should ideally fit exactly between the metal plate and the plastic surrounding it.
Go crazy trying to screw it firmly together, this can be quite a task as you need to somehow also hold the nut on the other side, i used pointy tweezers in the end...

And here's the finished product!

Foto 9.JPG
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#76 5 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Since this seems the right place to post CV info, some more well-meant advice on restoring CV:
1. When the PF is out of the pin check the back rim of the PF where the juggler magnet is, next to the metal clamp that slips onto the security latch in the cab. The PF is extremely weak there and the structure of the wood is often damaged. At some point the whole left back corner may break off the PF when shifting weight on it by pulling out the playfield. During my quest of finding this pin i had 2 CVs offered to me which had this area broken off and badly repaired. I took a Dremel and built an aluminum bracket which re-enforces this area as my PF also had stuctural damage in the wood which was not visible without removing the PF from the cab.
2. Polish all laneguides to mirror finish. I'm usually not a big fan of this kind of heavy modding, but for CV it looks great! Especially the Ringmaster collar and the Acrobats ramp entry laneguide become more or less invisible in the clown-vomit color madness of the playfield when polished.
3. I have had a Ringmaster Ball Cup Bracket custom maufactured in mirror-finish stainless steel. The original zinc bracket is ugly as hell and you can see it when the Ringmaster rises to the top position. The new bracket has a "hall-of-mirrors" effect that blends perfectly into the cirqus theme. I got 3 brackets for free as i allowed the guy who made them to market them, you can buy them at Ministry of Pinball since a few months.
4. If you replace the Ringmaster for a new one you will need to dremel out the back of the Ringmaster. Also it makes sense to have the lumpy part of the magnet coil sit in the FRONT of the Ringmaster, that's why his head is formed the way it is. Doing this will perfectly center his head whithout much hassle.
5. If by coincidence you find the plastic ringmaster protector kit - buy it (sold out since a year or so, was devoloped by Orbit Pinball and later licenced to Pinball decals Inc.)! It's not just a protector but a technical upgrade to correct all the drawbacks of the sub-optimal ringmaster top construction. They don't make it any more as it's crazy expesive to have it produced but sometimes single sets show up for sale.
If anyone's interested i can post detailed instructions and/or pictures of all these fixes and mods.

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I completely removed the security latch on the left side. My playfield has some damage to it from that stupid thing.

#77 5 years ago
Quoted from hardware:

I completely removed the security latch on the left side. My playfield has some damage to it from that stupid thing.

Funny thing is i wanted to do the same, but standing in the garage with the dremel i decided it's even easier to just cut out the bracket corner....just to lazy to remove the latch...

But yeah, it's the most stupid construction being placed exactly where it stresses the most delicate part of the PF.

#78 5 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Just a very friendly tip: The inserts may start ghosting if you clearcoat it. (...)
The higher surface tension of the new clearcoat accellerates this process additionally.
This is the reason why the pro's hate to renovate CV PFs and IF they do it they never guarantee success.

Wow, that's nasty. Thanks for the tip. Sorry to hear about your playfield. Can you tell me what type of clearcoat you used for it?

Does anyone else have good or bad experience with clearcoating a CV playfield? Please do share!

#79 5 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Wow, that's nasty. Thanks for the tip. Sorry to hear about your playfield. Can you tell me what type of clearcoat you used for it?
Does anyone else have good or bad experience with clearcoating a CV playfield? Please do share!

Well, someone put 3 layers of Mylar in front of the Ringmaster and the Marvel inserts looked really bad, so i had to get it done anyway, it wasn't really a choice. The PF was a mess - except for the CIRQUS inserts.
So now the PF looks great and plays great but has some ghosting on the CIRQUS inserts, but it is still 100% improvement to the original state. I can live with that.
When Mirco finally comes through with his Repro-CV-PFs i'll switch to one of those anyway. Until then i'm good.

It was professionally done by Henrik (PBD). As far as i know he uses car clearcoat customized and optimized over years for pinball PFs. I checked with all the well known pros beforehand and most of them would not do it because they all claimed it will most likely ghost again and ruin their hard work. Henrik also warned me many times...but it wasn't really a choice, it had to be done.

HSA also states why they don't do CVs here: http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Playfield_Restoration.html

Gene made some Repro CV PFs, but the colors are to washed out and they have serious insert issues (not ghosting, but irregularities in the surface), it just doesn't pop like the original.

#80 5 years ago

I wonder if the CV (and Sys 11) insert ghosting issues would go away if all the inserts were hammered out and reglued before clearcoating?

I've thought about getting my BK2K or SOF restored (but not CV, my playfield is original and good as new).

#81 5 years ago
Quoted from tjsynkral:

I wonder if the CV (and Sys 11) insert ghosting issues would go away if all the inserts were hammered out and reglued before clearcoating?
I've thought about getting my BK2K or SOF restored (but not CV, my playfield is original and good as new).

Yes, that works, I've seen CV PFs restored that way. But it's a lot of work and the inserts will become clear and lose the original haze because you will have to repaint them. You could mix small amounts of white into the clear to imitate the hazed look, but again it's a lot of work to get that effect right.

Especially with CV this is a pain because there is so much highly detailed artwork and different fonts on the inserts and you need more different colors than on any other pin.

I could have done that, but it would have cost up to 2.000USD plus all the inserts would have been clear then. Knowing that Mirco is working on perfect repros and has a clearcoating robot since producing for JJP makes it hard to justify that investment.

On BK2K it is manageable due to the limited colors and the fact that it doesn't matter to much when inserts lose the haze. Check this out, this BK2K PF was also restored by Henrik (PBD), took more than a year to do: http://www.flippermarkt.de/community/forum/showthread.php?t=127652

#82 5 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Any chance you can share some pics? I'd love to see how you have your setup.

Sorry for the delayed(!) reply; just revisited this thread. Pictures won't help; you won't notice any obvious differences. Like any game, all it takes are some minor bends/adjustments to lane guides, etc. to make the ball flow smoothly around the pf. (LOTR is a game that benefits hugely from such tweaking!)

OK, a short story about my CV: Ordered one from a local dealer back when I lived in DC, Spring 1998, NIB for $2100 delivered. it's been with me since and still plays like a dream. The end.

#83 5 years ago

So I had a CV that I got NIB back in the days when they were on close out. I later sold it because I'm an idiot, but that's not important. My CV not have a shield Over the juggler saucers. Never had a problem.

Fast forward to now and I have someone else's CV on loan and it's got this clear shield thing over the juggler saucers and all it seems to do is cause ball jams. Wtf! Whose brilliant idea was this thing? Do you guys leave that crap in place on yours?

#84 5 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

So I had a CV that I got NIB back in the days when they were on close out. I later sold it because I'm an idiot, but that's not important. My CV not have a shield Over the juggler saucers. Never had a problem.
Fast forward to now and I have someone else's CV on loan and it's got this clear shield thing over the juggler saucers and all it seems to do is cause ball jams. Wtf! Whose brilliant idea was this thing? Do you guys leave that crap in place on yours?

I think Pinbits invented that one.
Don't see the point either, the Juggler works perfect without that on my CV. It's an aftermarket mod anyway, so just take it out?

#85 5 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

I think Pinbits invented that one.
Don't see the point either, the Juggler works perfect without that on my CV. It's an aftermarket mod anyway, so just take it out?

I wasn't sure if it was aftermarket or not. I know WMS released a 'kit' to fix up some issues after the games shipped and operators reported some problems with ball hangups - but I didn't know if this was part of that or not. Out it goes! Thanks.

#86 5 years ago

The kit includes:
- Monstrous metal part that attaches to the DMD-holder and is supposed to guide the mini-pf when pulling out the PF.
- A post and washer that goes on the left side of the RM behind the yellow target.
- A little white plastic thing that goes on to the post that holds the middle part of the high wire ramp, it makes it steeper so the balls don't get stuck in the lock.
- Large metal bracket that guards the right spinner switch and the switch unter the neon ramp

Some other stuff i forgot.

The only ones you need are the highwire plastic ring, the post for the RM and the switch guard.

#87 5 years ago

i just finished to restore my cv. and i will put pic soon!!! and i have 2 issue.

1)i can buy extra ball?!

2) when the ball go to the high wire lock. its release the ball all the time... and doesn't lock it.... but it say ball 1 lock! also in ball 2!. i have 2.0 rom and all the switch are ok also the physical lock in the adjustment is on. help please... thanks

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#88 5 years ago

How many balls do you have installed into the game?

#89 5 years ago

Is anyone playing with the R/M HIT MODE TIMER turned on? How long have you set the timer?

Just noticed that setting and find the extra-challenge pretty nice. Especially cranking up the timer with the collar spinner is fun!

#90 5 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

How many balls do you have installed into the game?

4

#91 5 years ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

i just finished to restore my cv. and i will put pic soon!!! and i have 2 issue.
1)i can buy extra ball?!
2) when the ball go to the high wire lock. its release the ball all the time... and doesn't lock it.... but it say ball 1 lock! also in ball 2!. i have 2.0 rom and all the switch are ok also the physical lock in the adjustment is on. help please... thanks

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Beautiful CV!

Are you 100% sure that the switches are always working correctly? I've had the same problem in the past. The reason was the ball rolling a little bit further in real play than in testing and just being off the switch by 0,0000000001" ( ).
When resorting i installed switches with roll actuators rather than the wire ones, works perfect even without any adjustments and adds a lot of reliability.

Buy extra ball like with STTNG or TZ? No.

#92 5 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Beautiful CV!
Are you 100% sure that the switches are always working correctly? I've had the same problem in the past. The reason was the ball rolling a little bit further in real play than in testing and just being off the switch by 0,0000000001" ( ).
When resorting i installed switches with roll actuators rather than the wire ones, works perfect even without any adjustments and adds a lot of reliability.
Buy extra ball like with STTNG or TZ? No.

thank you very much!!! this was the problem now all works good! and i can play and making new mods and awesome topper for this machine! (will be avilable in the expo)
and yes buy extra ball after the game finish (buy in) (i think...)

#93 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Holy crap, that thing is rough as shit. I hope you got it dirt cheap. It's going to take a lot to get that going. If you paid more than $2500 in that condition, you paid to much.

i got it for free (small trade of my work)

#94 5 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

So I had a CV that I got NIB back in the days when they were on close out. I later sold it because I'm an idiot, but that's not important. My CV not have a shield Over the juggler saucers. Never had a problem.
Fast forward to now and I have someone else's CV on loan and it's got this clear shield thing over the juggler saucers and all it seems to do is cause ball jams. Wtf! Whose brilliant idea was this thing? Do you guys leave that crap in place on yours?

The one that Tom Callahan invented 14 years ago is much more effective and never jams.

#95 5 years ago

Here are some pictures of mine....such a different game with LEDs....I had incandescent lights from 98 to 2012. Got the green DMD last year. Put 2 spot lights on the right slingshot for the middle of the playfield.

CV 1.JPG
CV 2.JPG
CV 3.JPG
CV 4.JPG
CV 5.JPG

2 weeks later
#96 5 years ago

Ok. after hard and long work its ready! the interactive topper for the great machine Cirqus Voltaire!!!!

296231-i.jpg296232-i.jpg296229-i.jpg296230 (1).jpg

For more info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cv-interactive-topper-by-liorillusionmezelmods

What do you guys think?

Thanks!

#97 5 years ago

I think it looks pretty awesome. Might look even better if there was some type of lighting on the two towers as well.

#98 5 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I think it looks pretty awesome. Might look even better if there was some type of lighting on the two towers as well.

thanks! i have add on you can buy 6 par stage lights like on the game. or 12 stars.

#99 5 years ago

After looking for over 2 years, finally got my CV two days ago. Wanted a close to perfect playfield.
Weekend spent playing it. FUN! Deep plenty. Beautiful. To me it is everything TOTAN tried to be and become but could not. And I have a TOTAN

#100 5 years ago

Quite an impressive collection you have there bladerunner! Congrats on your CV addition

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