(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,101 posts
  • 173 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by noitbe1
  • Topic is favorited by 91 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 341 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

CV1 (resized).jpg
CV2 (resized).jpg
cv balls (resized).JPG
IMG_20200609_101031 (resized).jpg
mag (resized).JPG
299BB10F-ABC3-4ADC-86F4-786F814D2581 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200422_150021 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200422_150043 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200422_145843 (resized).jpg
IMG_2447 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2450 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2449 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2452 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2451 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2453 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2846 (resized).jpg

There are 1101 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 23.
#901 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

The LOTR is reversed. I modified it. I drilled a hole in the bracket and used a pop rivet to mount it. Works great.

Ah, gotcha.

I have the reversed part already.
I was considering drilling a lower hole in the ball guide on my game (sacrilege!!!), but that would put the screw head at just the wrong height, so the ball would bump it on every left-to-right ringmaster orbit.
The bracket's cheap enough that I could drill a new hole in it, punch a hole in the rubber, & press a PEM nut into it. Not too tricky.

Thanks,
-Jason

#902 11 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Ah, gotcha.
I have the reversed part already.
I was considering drilling a lower hole in the ball guide on my game (sacrilege!!!), but that would put the screw head at just the wrong height, so the ball would bump it on every left-to-right ringmaster orbit.
The bracket's cheap enough that I could drill a new hole in it, punch a hole in the rubber, & press a PEM nut into it. Not too tricky.
Thanks,
-Jason

There seems to be some demand for this part. Too bad PinBits or others are not making this part.

#903 11 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Ah, gotcha.
I have the reversed part already.
I was considering drilling a lower hole in the ball guide on my game (sacrilege!!!), but that would put the screw head at just the wrong height, so the ball would bump it on every left-to-right ringmaster orbit.
The bracket's cheap enough that I could drill a new hole in it, punch a hole in the rubber, & press a PEM nut into it. Not too tricky.
Thanks,
-Jason

Too hard to drill the guide. Drill the bracket.

#904 11 months ago

Tadaaa!

Align the bracket to the ball guide.
Sharpie mark the hole spot through the ball guide wall hole.
Center punch.
Drill to .166.
Press in a PEM SOS-440-8.
Punch a 2nd hole in the rubber.
Install!

(Also considered either pressing out the old threaded insert or cutting it down, so I wouldn't have to punch a 2nd hole in the rubber. But I didn't want an extra exposed hole or the chance of the remainder of the insert falling out onto the PF.)
20190712_175416 (resized).jpg20190712_175427 (resized).jpg20190712_175448 (resized).jpg20190712_175510 (resized).jpg20190712_175519 (resized).jpg

#905 11 months ago

In under the wire! Just under 2 years!

Got my CV on August 16, 2017
I consider the restoration completion date to officially be July 7, 2019: the day that I put the modded blue bumper back onto the correct side of the ball guide.
Given that I wanted to give this machine the treatment & not get distracted, I didn't play it even once when I got it (yes, I played it several times before I bought it); I didn't play it for the first time until last week, when it was all together (&, as expected, needed a few straightforward things ironed out).

WOW. Worth the wait*. Amazing machine.

Did a rather thorough restoration:
- Replaced half the plastics, Novus polished the other half
- Pulled off all PF top parts (except those pressed-in rail guides that I was concerned would be loose if I pulled & replaced them)
- Pulled off most of the PF bottom parts to clean/refurbish
- Cleaned & polished & waxed the naked PF a few times
- Tumble polished all metal hardware that would fit in my tumbler, hand-polished the rest
- All LEDs--generally color-matched under inserts & white elsewhere
- All new clear rubbers
- All new clear plastic posts (the game is vibrant enough as-is; I wanted to highlight the existing art colors rather than mask or skew them w/ additional color)
- All new flipper assemblies
- Rebuilt pops & slings
- Pinbits blackout PCB (AWESOoooOoOoOoME!!!)
- All new standup targets
- Added green LEDs under the ringmaster
- Ringmaster hole metal ring to cover a little wear
- Light-up flipper buttons

Attached are a couple of pics of the stripped PF vs. the finished game.

I documented the heck out of it, knowing that I would have little time to work on it, working in fits & starts w/ months-long gaps. Also, I needed to know where all the polished hardware went after exiting the tumbler. Baggies & Sharpies FTW!

I'll share my photo gallery--perhaps it is of some use to the club.
282 pictures (after deleting 100ish dupes/blurries/redundants):

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1h0iqBkSwHVsIu8fV9JZipTpDvlhscg0v

Thanks,
-Jason
cv2 (resized).JPGcv1 (resized).JPG

*well, OK, it's great & all, but no game is worth a 2-year wait & way too much labor & extra cost on top of purchase--I am never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever doing this level of restoration again. Ever. Never ever.

#906 11 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

In under the wire! Just under 2 years!

The clear rubbers look way better thank I would have expected. Thanks for sharing.

#907 11 months ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

In under the wire! Just under 2 years!
Got my CV on August 16, 2017
I consider the restoration completion date to officially be July 7, 2019: the day that I put the modded blue bumper back onto the correct side of the ball guide.
Given that I wanted to give this machine the treatment & not get distracted, I didn't play it even once when I got it (yes, I played it several times before I bought it); I didn't play it for the first time until last week, when it was all together (&, as expected, needed a few straightforward things ironed out).
WOW. Worth the wait*. Amazing machine.
Did a rather thorough restoration:
- Replaced half the plastics, Novus polished the other half
- Pulled off all PF top parts (except those pressed-in rail guides that I was concerned would be loose if I pulled & replaced them)
- Pulled off most of the PF bottom parts to clean/refurbish
- Cleaned & polished & waxed the naked PF a few times
- Tumble polished all metal hardware that would fit in my tumbler, hand-polished the rest
- All LEDs--generally color-matched under inserts & white elsewhere
- All new clear rubbers
- All new clear plastic posts (the game is vibrant enough as-is; I wanted to highlight the existing art colors rather than mask or skew them w/ additional color)
- All new flipper assemblies
- Rebuilt pops & slings
- Pinbits blackout PCB (AWESOoooOoOoOoME!!!)
- All new standup targets
- Added green LEDs under the ringmaster
- Ringmaster hole metal ring to cover a little wear
- Light-up flipper buttons
Attached are a couple of pics of the stripped PF vs. the finished game.
I documented the heck out of it, knowing that I would have little time to work on it, working in fits & starts w/ months-long gaps. Also, I needed to know where all the polished hardware went after exiting the tumbler. Baggies & Sharpies FTW!
I'll share my photo gallery--perhaps it is of some use to the club.
282 pictures (after deleting 100ish dupes/blurries/redundants):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1h0iqBkSwHVsIu8fV9JZipTpDvlhscg0v
Thanks,
-Jason
[quoted image][quoted image]
*well, OK, it's great & all, but no game is worth a 2-year wait & way too much labor & extra cost on top of purchase--I am never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever doing this level of restoration again. Ever. Never ever.

Hahahahahaha! Never say never! Lol

Let us know how the leds stay in the slings... mine keep popping out on the right sling,I end up finding them later in the ball trough

2 weeks later
#908 11 months ago

I finally managed to get a custom purple neon, and installed it in my extra neon ramp. I am pretty pleased with the results.

BEB5010C-6766-40E8-8131-D2230FF18032 (resized).jpeg
#909 11 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I finally managed to get a custom purple neon, and installed it in my extra neon ramp. I am pretty pleased with the results

Looks Awesome! Nice Job!

#910 11 months ago

Has anyone had issues where the ball flies off the Acrobats wire form and runs along the edge of the inner body, bouncing over the air ball plastics, to join the ramp right at the end?

If i hit a hard, well timed shot...this happens to me!!

Thoughts about a possible fix?

#911 11 months ago
Quoted from jardine:

Has anyone had issues where the ball flies off the Acrobats wire form and runs along the edge of the inner body, bouncing over the air ball plastics, to join the ramp right at the end?
If i hit a hard, well timed shot...this happens to me!!
Thoughts about a possible fix?

Yes, my solution is to slowly and methodically adjust the angle of the wireform and the angle and placement of both the metal ball-guide and the piece of plastic that mounts above it so that really fast shots hit that and are pushed back down onto the wireform. It's tricky to get it to where it only stops one that is destined to fly off but not one that is fast but not fast enough to fly off. The really fast ones will actually result in the ball almost stopping when hitting the plastic but still have enough energy to continue instead of rolling back down the ramp. It took a lot of trial and error to get it just right.

2 weeks later
#912 10 months ago

Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?

I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.

Thanks

#913 10 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?
I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.
Thanks

I've read this at least 10 times and still can't tell what it is you're trying to say / describe. Are you saying that it can't kick another ball out into the shooter lane after the first one?

#914 10 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Hello all having an issue with my CV.
After a ball is shot out into shooter lane I get these less powerful coil hits. They are not hard enough to shoot another ball out into the shooter lane. Whenever the game needs to shoot a ball out for whatever reason that works fine and the coil hits hard. i usually get this after a ball it shot into the shooter lane usually 3 or 4 times then it stops until I drain. Any ideas on what to check?
I pulled and cleaned the trough, reflowed both through boards, transervers optos are all working. I do have another rciever board I could pull from another game but it seems odd that I only get soft coil hits No diod on this coil (maybe I should check to see if that is the correct coil also) switch test doesn't show anything going in and out even when shaking and hitting the machine.
Thanks

Your Trough Jam opto is bad, or the game is seeing it as blocked. The 'light kicks' are the coil eject trying to get the balls to settle back down into the trough properly.

#915 10 months ago

I posted a video in the FB Pinball repair group it can't here.

All the trough opto's work fine in test including the eject opto 31, the shooter lane switch works fine. Everything seems to work fine balls are kicked out fine when they are supposed to be even during multiball or ball saves.
Just say after ball one is shot into the shooter lane I get soft hits from the through coil usually 3 to 5 hits then it goes away until I drain then again after say ball 2 gets kicked out. They are soft fantom like hits, they are not hard enough to shoot a ball into the shooter lane. But if i drain and the ball saver is on it kicks out just fine, coil hits hard.

I pulled the through mech out cleaned and waxed the trough, reflowed the opto boards, the transmitters are all working.

With the game in switch test I never see anything going in or out even with shaking of the machine. I'm going to swap in another trough receiver board from another game but with the coil hits being soft it's not like a standard trough board issue with a bad or dirty opto at least it doesn't seem that way because I'm not getting extra alls put in play just soft coil hits from the trough coil.

#916 10 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

I posted a video in the FB Pinball repair group it can't here.
All the trough opto's work fine in test including the eject opto 31, the shooter lane switch works fine. Everything seems to work fine balls are kicked out fine when they are supposed to be even during multiball or ball saves.
Just say after ball one is shot into the shooter lane I get soft hits from the through coil usually 3 to 5 hits then it goes away until I drain then again after say ball 2 gets kicked out. They are soft fantom like hits, they are not hard enough to shoot a ball into the shooter lane. But if i drain and the ball saver is on it kicks out just fine, coil hits hard.
I pulled the through mech out cleaned and waxed the trough, reflowed the opto boards, the transmitters are all working.
With the game in switch test I never see anything going in or out even with shaking of the machine. I'm going to swap in another trough receiver board from another game but with the coil hits being soft it's not like a standard trough board issue with a bad or dirty opto at least it doesn't seem that way because I'm not getting extra alls put in play just soft coil hits from the trough coil.

Don't know what else to say, 'cept something's no right. That's what that 'light kicking' is doing, and why it's doing it.

I would start a game with the coin door open (with high-power interlock closed, so coils work, of course), and start a game. When the ball is kicked out to the shooter lane and it does the light jam kick, go into Test Mode, T.3 Single Switch Test, and look at switch 31. The graphic shoudl show a LIT/filled square (not an empty one) and the description on screen should *NOT* have an "(A)" on it.

#917 10 months ago

Yeah No (A)

It doesn't seem like the normal through issues with extra balls getting kicked out and funny stuff like that. I just get these phantom soft coil hits after each main ball is kicked out usually not after a ball save ball or after multiball started.

20190821_173149 (resized).jpg
#918 10 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

normal through issues with extra balls getting kicked out

Cameron wrote this code, and specifically adjusted the coil kickout to AVOID kicking out a second ball. Yeah - he did that on purpose, and AFAIK, it was written into the OS this way so games / firmwares released afterward (and that used the new OS) took advantage of this feature.

#919 10 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Cameron wrote this code, and specifically adjusted the coil kickout to AVOID kicking out a second ball. Yeah - he did that on purpose, and AFAIK, it was written into the OS this way so games / firmwares released afterward (and that used the new OS) took advantage of this feature.

Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.

I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?

I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.

#920 10 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.
I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?
I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.

The Home ROM would cause it to fire like that. I mean, it would, but if it thought there was a ball stuck or something. My guess is that since the switch shows closed in switch test, likely you have a failing transmitter or receiver on your trough opto board. I'd do that before touching the board in the backbox.

#921 10 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Interesting, that's games after CV? I just had a transmitter go out on my Totan and it did the normal kick out extra balls and other stuff like that but this is the first time I've seen the week coil hits. good stuff to know.
I'm running the Home ROM you think that's got anything to do with it?
I'm going to swap the MPU to Driver board ribbon cable later tonight then the trough receiver board, after that not sure what else to try.

Have you tried new balls, yours may be magnetized and not rolling all the way down after the ball is ejected. Also make sure there are no divots formed in the trough that will keep the balls from rolling down. Easy test for this would be to start game, have it eject the ball then quickly visually inspect or use switch test to see which optos show closed in the trough.

#922 10 months ago

Just got my first CV, anything I should change or look for right away? Ball jumps high around the ringmaster I’m just assuming that he needs to be adjusted a rick lower. Thanks in advance!!

3BD76F25-EBA7-4889-A5AB-A1EBE3F86EA1 (resized).jpegD4AF89C1-BA88-4BED-9706-D27E6ED17BD2 (resized).jpeg
#923 10 months ago

Looks Awesome! Yeah just take a close look at the Ringmaster and how the Mech's geometry works in conjunction with the playfield. That unit is subject to not closing properly. Fortunately, once it is set up to work properly, it usually is good for the long haul. I would recommend the Ringmaster protection kit (ring and top) It allows you to get rid of the metal top that can damage the playfield.

#924 10 months ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Looks Awesome! Yeah just take a close look at the Ringmaster and how the Mech's geometry works in conjunction with the playfield. That unit is subject to not closing properly. Fortunately, once it is set up to work properly, it usually is good for the long haul. I would recommend the Ringmaster protection kit (ring and top) It allows you to get rid of the metal top that can damage the playfield.

Sweet thanks any specific kit better than the others?

#925 10 months ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Sweet thanks any specific kit better than the others?

The only one of those that's still in production that I know of is from the Mod Couple and I do NOT recommend it. I put it in mine and will be taking it back out when I get some time. The problem is that due to the design of the RM mech, how the position switches are actuated and the fact that the RM moves in both directions (dual direction motor drive) it is basically impossible to get it to stop exactly where you want it to be in the down position every time. With the metal top you can just adjust it so that it's always really lower than it may need to be but the metal top is flat and flexible enough to bend and compensate for it. With the Plastic top you can't do that anymore. I spent hours trying to tweak it by bending the switch actuator tabs but it's still not ideal and it leads to lots of ball hops. The other problem, or benefit if you think the game should be harder, is that making shots into the RM when fully up is much, much harder than it is without that ring in there. Without it stringing MB Jackpots together is fairly simple as long as you can control the balls when they get ejected, with it a lot of those get rejected and the shot is much tighter. In my opinion the slight amount of wear that occurs on the bare wood around the RM is very minor (I have a re-import that was routed and has who knows how many games on it) it better than this particular kit, don't know about the original one that's no longer available.

#926 10 months ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Just got my first CV, anything I should change or look for right away? Ball jumps high around the ringmaster I’m just assuming that he needs to be adjusted a rick lower. Thanks in advance!![quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure you have the Stern style metal cabinet leg protectors under those green plastic ones or they will cause wrinkling to the decals. Beautiful game, congrats!

#927 10 months ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

Sweet thanks any specific kit better than the others?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/65611

I have this one. Works great. It’s also the original style that got re-run.

#928 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/65611
I have this one. Works great. It’s also the original style that got re-run.

I hadn't seen that one before, looks like it's thinner than the Mod Couple one I have and may not cause so many rejects. Do you get any ball hop from it when the RM is down?

#929 10 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I hadn't seen that one before, looks like it's thinner than the Mod Couple one I have and may not cause so many rejects. Do you get any ball hop from it when the RM is down?

nope. no ball hop. Can shoot the ringmaster hole just fine.

Once I installed the plastic lid (needed to add a shim to get it leveled properly) I adjusted the downward travel just a hair so its flush. It was a little crooked in the opening so I applied some hand force to the base of the spring, giving it a little bend in the correct direction and its perfect now.

#930 10 months ago

Hey guys, Where can I buy the bottom plastic piece that goes on the translite on the backbox to lift it out? Mine broke and I purchased a new one from pinball life but it's not thick enough for that plastic form back box to fit all the way in the track. I guess ours needs to be thicker for the plexi and plastic form. Anyone have a source? Thanks

#931 10 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Hey guys, Where can I buy the bottom plastic piece that goes on the translite on the backbox to lift it out? Mine broke and I purchased a new one from pinball life but it's not thick enough for that plastic form back box to fit all the way in the track. I guess ours needs to be thicker for the plexi and plastic form. Anyone have a source? Thanks

Planetarypinball or bayareaamusements should have the thicker lift channel you need.

#932 10 months ago

I have the old style kit and it works perfectly. That one in the market looks like the one I have. Well worth $$

#933 10 months ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Planetarypinball or bayareaamusements should have the thicker lift channel you need.

Nothing on their sites but I sent them an e-mail to see. Thanks!

#935 10 months ago

The game seems dark, any suggestions on GI led lighting colors/choices?

#936 10 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I hadn't seen that one before, looks like it's thinner than the Mod Couple one I have and may not cause so many rejects. Do you get any ball hop from it when the RM is down?

I also have this one and I find that there is zero ball hop. It did take me a while to get it dialed in though. Also I had to use a plastic razor blade to ensure the hole protector was laying the correct direction.

#937 10 months ago
Quoted from partyguy1516:

The game seems dark, any suggestions on GI led lighting colors/choices?

It is hard to tell but it looks like there is some color LEDs in the GI, I'd recommend you replace those with incandescent or the frosted Sunlight 2SMDs from Comet. That will help to brighten it up a lot. Blue and Purple are terrible at actually providing improved visibility when used in GI. I really like incandescent in this game but the same Sunlight LEDs are pretty good though you will probably get flickering unless you disable the dimming feature or add the GIOCD board.

#938 10 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It is hard to tell but it looks like there is some color LEDs in the GI, I'd recommend you replace those with incandescent or the frosted Sunlight 2SMDs from Comet. That will help to brighten it up a lot. Blue and Purple are terrible at actually providing improved visibility when used in GI. I really like incandescent in this game but the same Sunlight LEDs are pretty good though you will probably get flickering unless you disable the dimming feature or add the GIOCD board.

I am putting LEDs in my Simpson's Pinball Party. Are the Comet sunlight better than cool white? I was going to put clear cool white under the inserts and most of the upper playfield. I would put a few frosted cool white at the slings and out lanes. Any thoughts? Thanks.

#939 10 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I am putting LEDs in my Simpson's Pinball Party. Are the Comet sunlight better than cool white? I was going to put clear cool white under the inserts and most of the upper playfield. I would put a few frosted cool white at the slings and out lanes. Any thoughts? Thanks.

This is purely subjective as to which is better. I almost always prefer a warmer white unless the game is space themed or similar, if there were a hospital or doctor's office themed game (God forbid) I'd also choose cool white. Not sure how cool white would look in Simpsons but I think the Sunlights would be better. The warmer white is much closer to what you get from incandescent bulbs and to me is just generally more pleasing and doesn't provide "hot spots" as much. My other general rule of thumb (I'm sure someone else came up with it before me) is if I can see the bulb directly I use frosted, not clear LEDs, this applies to LEDs under sling plastics and some other ones as well.

#940 10 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

This is purely subjective as to which is better. I almost always prefer a warmer white unless the game is space themed or similar, if there were a hospital or doctor's office themed game (God forbid) I'd also choose cool white. Not sure how cool white would look in Simpsons but I think the Sunlights would be better. The warmer white is much closer to what you get from incandescent bulbs and to me is just generally more pleasing and doesn't provide "hot spots" as much. My other general rule of thumb (I'm sure someone else came up with it before me) is if I can see the bulb directly I use frosted, not clear LEDs, this applies to LEDs under sling plastics and some other ones as well.

Thanks. I always use frosted to not get blinded! I have some warm white frosted in pin now. I want to make sure the colors pop. The incandescent bulbs make the Simpson's look a little bit dull. I want to make the right choice before I spend a ton on 100+ bulbs.

#941 10 months ago

I am going with sunlight frosted and clear from Comet. Thanks for the help!

#942 10 months ago

Are the VOLTS in the middle of the playfield supposed to change the direction of the ball? Or do they have an adjustment to become more flush?

#943 10 months ago

It will change the direction slightly. Check to make sure you have the cardboard spacer between the assembly and the bottom of the playfield.

#944 10 months ago

Recently my ringmaster seems to be throwing the ball consistently in the same direction whereas it used to be fairly random. Is there something which could have changed?

#945 10 months ago

Had mine a for a good few months now, such a beautiful game. Had a new cab/decals by the best guy in the
uk (Manny). Color led display, PinSound & speakers, Afterglow which a German version of led ocd.
Has metal rings around the upper volts roll overs so cannot wear. Never seen that on another one.

19A3E431-DCAC-42CA-B38E-5A5C01F1732C (resized).jpegB268BFD0-65B2-4004-A4C7-9E27FE957E24 (resized).jpegD8848BFE-2B9E-4E93-899A-5BC3C434936F (resized).jpeg
#946 10 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Recently my ringmaster seems to be throwing the ball consistently in the same direction whereas it used to be fairly random. Is there something which could have changed?

My Ring Master needs a very gentle shake right before he releases the ball to launch it! If you shake it too hard he will just dump it off down the play field every time. When you shake the game gently it will move the ball (Magnetized) around the screw that is in the center. That will get it to launch when he releases it.

#947 10 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Afterglow which a German version of led ocd

Do you have any more info about this? Perhaps even a link?

#948 9 months ago

Going to instal my new ringmaster kit. How do I remove the top plate? Is my screw just mangled? If so will I have to drill it out?

E002E334-2195-4CFA-A231-EED0430CB2D2 (resized).jpeg
#949 9 months ago

It's a phillips screw worn down from the ball. Yes, you have to drill it out.

#950 9 months ago

Still looking for part number 04-10253-1. That's the elusive guard-ball guide with blue bumper pad kit. Anyone have one to sell, or willing to fabricate one?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
8,500
Machine - For Sale
Salt Lake City, UT
$ 999.00
Pinball Machine
Mircoplayfields
$ 48.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 99.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 69.00
Playfield - Protection
The MOD Couple
From: $ 12.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
There are 1101 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 23.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside