(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by amxfc3s
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There are 988 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 20.
#501 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It uses a different top plate? What is that one made out of? I don't understand why I can't just buy the damn thing from someone! Who originally made them?

Me, too!

#502 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It uses a different top plate? What is that one made out of? I don't understand why I can't just buy the damn thing from someone! Who originally made them?

Orbit Pinball: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/are-orbit-pinball-still-around
In the thread it says they are made from nylon. Makes lots of sense. PDI probably just sold all the remaining Orbit stock, not sure if they ever produced them by themselves. But you can ask Joey, maybe he knows more?

The top plate is made from standard hard plastic. It is much smaller than the original metal plate as is needs to sink into the ring, no edges on the PF any more. It's a complete re-design of that area, not just a simple add-on-cover-up mod. In the lowered position the ball rolls smoothly over it, no ball distraction at all.

It's hard to take a representative picture of it without taking the glass off...

IMG_2412 (resized).JPG

#503 2 years ago

Joined the cirqus this week. Hooray. One of my top 5 games ever. Yay.

It's got a few issues, & I have little time, so I'm combing through the game & this thread to see what sort of mods/work/upgrades/repairs/prevention I want to implement.

A couple quick questions:

1 - Where do I stick these? I did reglue the long sticker on the hold-up-the-playfield-lock-bar thingie at back left. But I'm not sure where this related sticker goes. And the zappy sticker goes somewhere inside the coin door?
1 (resized).JPG

2 - Is this a hold-the-weak-back-left-playfield-together custom bracket, or is this a standard factory bracket to interface with the lock thingy?
2 (resized).JPG

3 - The backbox has the real metal bell mod. The ball doesn't seem to be very effective. It often falls short, & it was actually wedged & stuck up against the bell (at about 10:00). It was like that when I brought the game home & put the head up. The ball might be too thick (and heavy?).
What's the recommended ball to use to ding the real bell?

More questions shall trickle in along the way! =D

Thanks,
-Jason

#504 2 years ago

Share some pics of this new bmf! Congrats, Ive only been in the club for about a week but love this pin.

#505 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

1 - Where do I stick these? I did reglue the long sticker on the hold-up-the-playfield-lock-bar thingie at back left. But I'm not sure where this related sticker goes. And the zappy sticker goes somewhere inside the coin door?

2 - Is this a hold-the-weak-back-left-playfield-together custom bracket, or is this a standard factory bracket to interface with the lock thingy?

3 - The backbox has the real metal bell mod. The ball doesn't seem to be very effective. It often falls short, & it was actually wedged & stuck up against the bell (at about 10:00). It was like that when I brought the game home & put the head up. The ball might be too thick (and heavy?).
What's the recommended ball to use to ding the real bell?
More questions shall trickle in along the way! =D
Thanks,
-Jason

1. The big decal goes on the bottom of the Ringmaster assy. The cutout part of the sticker is for the screw that adjusts the Ringmasters hight.

2. It's a standard factory bracket. For more info on this area see my post 73 in this thread.

3. No idea.

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#506 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

3 - The backbox has the real metal bell mod. The ball doesn't seem to be very effective. It often falls short, & it was actually wedged & stuck up against the bell (at about 10:00). It was like that when I brought the game home & put the head up. The ball might be too thick (and heavy?).
What's the recommended ball to use to ding the real bell?
More questions shall trickle in along the way! =D
Thanks,
-Jason

Double check the ball popper isn't loose and that it functions smoothly mechanically. If the sleeve or plunger is worn it can drag, if the plastic where it's mounted it cracked or it's not mounted solidly it won't work well either.

#507 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Orbit Pinball: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/are-orbit-pinball-still-around
In the thread it says they are made from nylon. Makes lots of sense. PDI probably just sold all the remaining Orbit stock, not sure if they ever produced them by themselves. But you can ask Joey, maybe he knows more?
The top plate is made from standard hard plastic. It is much smaller than the original metal plate as is needs to sink into the ring, no edges on the PF any more. It's a complete re-design of that area, not just a simple add-on-cover-up mod. In the lowered position the ball rolls smoothly over it, no ball distraction at all.
It's hard to take a representative picture of it without taking the glass off...

Wow, this thing solves both the issue of the hole getting chewed up, and the issue where the top plate gets bent from ball strikes? I NEED THIS NOW! Who is Joey? How much do you want for your extra one?

#508 2 years ago

Bump for Simba mod in the market place from 3dmods
Before this was made the only other one available was like 175 bucks ours just 50 plus shipping

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#509 2 years ago

Thanks for the replies. I'm continuing to chip away at open items on my CV.

1 - Glued the big decal under the Ringmaster. Haven't yet found out where the zappy electrical shocked guy sticker goes. I'm looking for a telltale rectangular "shadow" somewhere in the cabinet.

2 - On my to-do list is to inspect the back left corner of the PF for damage, then fab something accordingly. This PF is too goshdarn heavy for me to pop out to see the back left corner. I used to be able to handily swap my P2K PFs, as they were pretty light & had full-length rails. What's the technique for 1 muscularly challenged person to pull out a PF?

3 - The backbox tub had been repaired. Although it looks really uglypants (pipe strap!), it seems solid, so it's not a priority for me now.
What seems to be more significant is that the previous guy switched to foosball balls to better *ding* the metal bell. I've got 4 yellow balls & 1 orange ball. Stats below. One of the heavier ones was installed. Looks as if the larger diameter & mass of a foosball is a likely culprit for the ball sticking & not dinging the bell. Perhaps a swap to a beefier coil is supposed to accompany this mod? Does #5 below look like a stock ball?
1-4: diameter: 1.455-1.457", mass: 26g
5: diameter 1.397", mass: 10g

4 - I seem to have 2 menagerie balls. The blue one looks nicer, so I polished it a bit & put it back in the machine. It seems to work, so no immediate issues here.
6&7: diameter: 1.93-1.94", mass: 6g (7 says "EURO-MATIC, MADE IN DENMARK")

Thanks,
-Jason

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#510 2 years ago

So you have a pic of this 'electrified guy'?

The #5 ball is the correct ball.
Games were shipped with varying color of Menagerie colored balls. Both may be accurate.

#511 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

So you have a pic of this 'electrified guy'?
The #5 ball is the correct ball.
Games were shipped with varying color of Menagerie colored balls. Both may be accurate.

Thanks.

Electrified zappy guy: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-circus-cv-club-for-owners-fans/page/11#post-3925515

-Jason

#512 2 years ago

Menagerie ball should match the color of the neon light. Mine are both blue which is correct for my serial number.

#513 2 years ago

OH!
That went on the coin door. In one of the dollar bill panels.

Quoted from drummermike:

Menagerie ball should match the color of the neon light. Mine are both blue which is correct for my serial number.

No, they *were* random leaving the factory.

#514 2 years ago

Thanks for the replies!

1 - Stuck the zapped guy sticker in the correct location. Found some pics online showing where it goes. I was thrown off because the sticker spans a step between 2 parts in the coin door. Anyway, glued!

3 - Cleaned up the orange cannonball (alcohol, Novus 1, 3, 2, 1, alcohol). It was quite dingy at first. Now rather shiny. Installed. Popped the cannon 5-6 times or so. It's got pep & hits the bell every time, with a tiny *ding*. Maybe I'll look into *slightly* heavier balls later, but it seems good.

4 - My neon is red, my menagerie ball is blue. No idea if either is factory. Neon wouldn't turn on in self-test menu mode, but it does come off & on a bit during attract mode. What is the normal neon behavior, so I know if it's acting normally vs. being intermittent?

5 - Did service bulletin 5 last night. The funky sheet metal that protects the spinner switch under the neon required a little bending so it wouldn't pinch wires on the next lower switch. I left off the bracket that protects the DMD cover, as it won't go on unless you trim the cover. Installed a new DMD cover. See pics for hilarious cover that was on the game when I got it--despite it looking terrible, it actually looked A-OK when installed & w/ the playfield in place...but once I saw how fubar it was, it irked me. Then I practiced how to get the PF in & out w/out busting it--not hard--requires just a bit of care.

In the mail are: rubbers, blackout mod, Ringmaster hole protector/cover, coin box, standup targets, pop bumper skirts, green shooter rod spring, clear flipper buttons (which I'll backlight), 3x roller switch for locks, leg protectors. When the rings come in, I'll do a halfway torn-down top-side clean & wax. That's all... :]

Thanks,
-Jason

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#515 2 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

In the mail are: rubbers, blackout mod, Ringmaster hole protector/cover, coin box, standup targets, pop bumper skirts, green shooter rod spring, clear flipper buttons (which I'll backlight), 3x roller switch for locks, leg protectors.

What is the blackout mod?

Also, my game had red neon and a yellow menagerie ball. I pine away for a blue neon, or bluish purple.

If you ever need pictures of something, let me know. My game has mostly factory stuff on it, minus a couple of mods.

#516 2 years ago

I replaced the bell with one of those countertop "ring for help" bells. I stripped out the excess pieces. It's a teeny bit larger than the one in the game and sounds better.

#517 2 years ago

i believe the blackout mod is when a game has a mode where the gi goes out, like neon multiball on CV, the backbox gi is modded to go out at the same time. did i get that right?

#519 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

OH!
That went on the coin door. In one of the dollar bill panels.

No, they *were* random leaving the factory.

I was mistaken. The IPD stated the colors "usually" matched. Brain is going!

#520 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i believe the blackout mod is when a game has a mode where the gi goes out, like neon multiball on CV, the backbox gi is modded to go out at the same time. did i get that right?

Oh thanks!

#521 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I was mistaken. The IPD stated the colors "usually" matched. Brain is going!

Not your fault- I didn't even know it said that!
When I got my Sample, I started the CV owner's list, and kept track of everyone's game - plus Neon and Ball color, and it sure seemed hellish random to me at the time.

#522 2 years ago

I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.

Has anyone seen this?

#523 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.
Has anyone seen this?

What is "multi-strike" multiball?

#524 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Not your fault- I didn't even know it said that!
When I got my Sample, I started the CV owner's list, and kept track of everyone's game - plus Neon and Ball color, and it sure seemed hellish random to me at the time.

I think I am on that list but I could not recall where it is!

#525 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

What is "multi-strike" multiball?

The multiple you get from hitting the neon ramp a certain number of times.

#526 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

The multiple you get from hitting the neon ramp a certain number of times.

I think that is Strike an Arc multi-ball.

#527 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I've been getting this weird thing where the multi-strike multiball is triggering when putting balls into the high-wire lock.
Has anyone seen this?

That could be normal depending on how many ramps you make prior to locking a ball. Look at instant info while trapping a ball to see what I mean. Ideally, you shoot your third lock when you need just one more ramp for Strike an Arc MB and you will have the two MB's stacked.

#528 2 years ago

Worked on the backbox last night: cleaning, putting in LEDs, cable management, lubricating 5-point wheel thing, checking/cleaning solenoid, etc.

My attempts at using subdued frosted colored LEDs & color-matching tastefully looks pretty blecchhh. Just way too many odd colors in this art package.

I'm going clear all the way on this game (except maybe a few flashers like the domed one).

Going through the parts list, I came up with the following bulb totals. Has anybody counted or verified if this is accurate?

48x 44/47 bayonet
2x 89 bayonet flasher
77x 555 wedge
17x 906 wedge flasher

---

Also, regarding an accurate rubber ring count, don't forget the 3 little ones in the backbox! My black ones were old & dry, probably the source of some of those black mark trails from the cannonball. New clear ones on there look fab & should keep the backbox cleaner.

Thanks,
-Jason

#529 2 years ago

Pics of your pin

#530 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Pics of your pin

Who me? Oh, nothing special to document. It's just another CV...I'm being slow & meticulous in getting it squared away before playing (& I have precious little time on my hands in general...), & I don't expect to have any visually interesting mods to share.

Here are 2 pics after I got the head up & the scrolls on. Enjoy.

Thanks,
-Jason

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#531 2 years ago

Its always cool to see another pinheads take on cv. Leds vs incandescents, color dmd, what color neon, mirror blades or art side blades. Gives us different ideas to make a awesome game even better

#532 2 years ago

So we just joined the CV club! Quick question; when do the balls stack up on three switches on the rails alongside the ramp? From what we've seen it only holds one ball and then releases it? Just want to make sure it's working as expected? Thanks!

#533 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

So we just joined the CV club! Quick question; when do the balls stack up on three switches on the rails alongside the ramp? From what we've seen it only holds one ball and then releases it? Just want to make sure it's working as expected? Thanks!

You mean the Highwire ramp?
It should lock balls there - lock two. Then the third is caught and held up there as the animation plays, and then you start Highwire Multiball.

If it's not holding the ball, you likely have a bad or flaky switch.

#534 2 years ago

Yes, highwire ramp. I'll check the switches. Thanks.

#535 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Yes, highwire ramp. I'll check the switches. Thanks.

Could be set to "virtual locks" in settings. This is the preferred setting in competition. Try going into svc mode and doing a "factory reset" or "factory install".

#536 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

So we just joined the CV club! Quick question; when do the balls stack up on three switches on the rails alongside the ramp? From what we've seen it only holds one ball and then releases it? Just want to make sure it's working as expected? Thanks!

Tournament mode will only hold one ball at a time.If you turn it off in settings ,it should hold three balls.

#537 2 years ago

Thanks everyone for the suggestions on the highwire ramp - turns out the lead ball was just triggering the switch threshold as it rested against the release post so that any minor vibration was opening the switch. I adjusted the switch blade and shifted the ramp slightly and now the multi-ball lock and virtual locks are working perfectly. I've also ordered the roller style switches for a future upgrade.

So here's my next question; I'm assuming that after completing the right ramp (acrobat) 3 times and the ramp diverter opens, the next acrobat shot should orbit from right to left (assuming it doesn't fall into the side-show at the top. But for some reason it seems like the ball is hitting something up top and then dribbling back out the right side of the orbit? And then occasionally rather than coming back out, the ball will just get stuck up top. When I lift the playfield and pull it forward the ball is just sitting there against the back rail not stuck at all? With the playfield in the up position I can manually hold the diverter open and send the ball around the orbit no problem (granted, the playfield is tipped in the opposite direction), but with the playfield down it just won't do it? I'm baffled as to what could be causing the ball to stop and come back out the same way it went in (the orbit)? Any thoughts?

#538 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

So we just joined the CV club! Quick question; when do the balls stack up on three switches on the rails alongside the ramp? From what we've seen it only holds one ball and then releases it? Just want to make sure it's working as expected? Thanks!

I recently had this issue and it took a little bit of work to get it fixed. Every time the ball would come down the rails, it would come down and lay on switch one. Then the upon getting the second ball up there, it would come down and knock ball one off the switch and it would rest at an odd angle. So now the game thinks there is something wrong and will dump that second ball to keep a ball in play. We ended up cutting a post rubber down and sliding it on one of the rails to prevent ball one from moving off the switch. Now it works like a charm.

#539 2 years ago

I've noticed that the ringmaster on our CV tends to throw the ball mostly backwards, is this typical? Also, the screw on the top is not totally flat, so when the magnet initially catches the ball it sits on the screw, but then as the head raises up the ball seems to go loose and swing below the screw and I'm wondering if this is affecting the direction the ball is tossed?

#540 2 years ago

My CV usually throws the ball backwards during Razz. Sometimes I shake the ball off to get a shot in before RM goes back down. But you may want to wait because he may throw the ball on the highwire ramp for a lock. The screw should be flat though so the ball will center on his head.

#541 2 years ago

Well I solved the mystery of the ball getting stuck or returning back from the Acrobat orbit. Turns out when the previous owner installed the color DMD, the data connector jack and wires were exactly lined up with the hole in the rear plastic and right in the path of the ball in the orbit. I'm not sure if this was an oversight on the part of the ColorDMD guys when they designed the display for the CV or just bad luck. The solution was to remove the DMD and rotate the pcb on the back so the connector was on the top.

Ball stuck under DMD with arrow (resized).jpg

#542 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My CV usually throws the ball backwards during Razz. Sometimes I shake the ball off to get a shot in before RM goes back down. But you may want to wait because he may throw the ball on the highwire ramp for a lock. The screw should be flat though so the ball will center on his head.

The screw is just slightly curved on top. I'll have to see if I can find a flat one with the correct thread gauge (probably not going to be easy).

#543 2 years ago

Grinder

#544 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The screw is just slightly curved on top. I'll have to see if I can find a flat one with the correct thread gauge (probably not going to be easy).

I think pinbits sells them. https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_4&products_id=201&zenid=2ccb5d388ec98e9ef7c7791482a839ca

#545 2 years ago

A little pre-ceremony game of CV...

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#546 2 years ago

That will put her in the right frame of mind!

#547 2 years ago

Thanks for the link. The screw is listed as "oval" which usually means it's not totally flat, but that could just be a misprint in the description.

#548 2 years ago

No, the screw was oval. Top was slightly rounded. It was not flat from the factory.

#549 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No, the screw was oval. Top was slightly rounded. It was not flat from the factory.

Then I guess mine is correct. I was only wondering because the ball tends to swing below the screw as the RM raises up and then most often flings off the back rather than juke around on the plate before flinging off. So I though maybe the oval screw was causing the ball to break contact with the magnet too quickly.

#550 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Then I guess mine is correct. I was only wondering because the ball tends to swing below the screw as the RM raises up and then most often flings off the back rather than juke around on the plate before flinging off. So I though maybe the oval screw was causing the ball to break contact with the magnet too quickly.

From what I remember - and it's been a while, I could be wrong - that was done on purpose as a flat screw would get the ball in the dead center of the magnet's effect, and when the magnet would 'pulse', the ball wouldn't go anywhere. (Sitting in the center of the face of the screw like that..)

However, while a lot of times, games I've owned/played did shoot the ball backwards, it wasn't nearly (or even close to) 'all the time'. So, I'm not sure what a fix would be. Stronger magnet coil?

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