(Topic ID: 81336)

"Welcome to the Circus!" - CV Club for Owners, Fans


By Dbaum88

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Gotfrogs
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There are 1013 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 21.
#451 2 years ago

yeah its work , its blue/white one look like

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#452 2 years ago

Nice looking game

#453 2 years ago

Such a gorgeous game!

#454 2 years ago

Had a quick question regarding my CV.

The ball popper in the backbox works, but only works at certain times of gameplay. If you make the outer loop during the game, it pops. But lets say if you're in the video mode in which the man is pulling the rope to make the popper go, it doesn't work. It responds with the flippers, but the ball doesn't pop. Any ideas what's going on here?

#455 2 years ago

sounds pretty normal, unless i don't understand what you're saying.

in video mode, you have to press a button to pull the string to fire the cannon. when you have the balloon pop up, everytime you hit that it'll fire. lit outlanes will fire the cannon. maybe certain achievements will do it, too. that's all i can think of.

#456 2 years ago

Cannon will fire also each time SPIN is completed, or a Marvel is completed.
I don't remember too well (it's been over 10 years since I've owned the game!) but I believe Jackpot shots will fire the cannon as well.

#457 2 years ago

Thanks for the input guys, I played Clay's in Ann Arbor, MI (Vintage Flipper World) and the cannon seems to work a lot more often then mine. Maybe its since I don't have home ROMs in mine since its on location and needs to be on coin play. Its the most up to date version before home ROMs. It just seems like the cannon should be firing during the video mode (man pulling rope). I do believe Clays was doing it during that mode.
All it does is during that mode is when you hit the flippers, he pulls the rope and else nothing happens with he cannon, its weird. May be I just don't understand this mode. I've just got complaints from people playing it that the game isn't acting right during that mode.

#458 2 years ago
Quoted from mikedetroit:

Thanks for the input guys, I played Clay's in Ann Arbor, MI (Vintage Flipper World) and the cannon seems to work a lot more often then mine. Maybe its since I don't have home ROMs in mine since its on location and needs to be on coin play. Its the most up to date version before home ROMs. It just seems like the cannon should be firing during the video mode (man pulling rope). I do believe Clays was doing it during that mode.
All it does is during that mode is when you hit the flippers, he pulls the rope and else nothing happens with he cannon, its weird. May be I just don't understand this mode. I've just got complaints from people playing it that the game isn't acting right during that mode.

Off the top of my head -
- It may be the ROM revision - I helped beta-test v2.0H, and do NOT remember a THING about the revisions prior to that, it was so long ago.
- It may be a loose wire - in-game, there are vibrations happening (flippers, coils, etc..) which may help the connection keep good, and as soon as everything stops the connection isn't made to the coil.
- Wired wrong? Maybe the coil is wired to a flasher output or something? Check Test and see if it fires when it's supposed to? (And if not, go through ALL coils and flashers and make sure they are all operating normally..)

#459 2 years ago

I just updated from 1.3 to the 2.0h ROM and there is no difference in the cannon fire for my machine.

The cannon side-show (man pulling the rope) requires that you actually hit the button to fire the cannon. It will only fire when the ball is correctly loaded, so the solenoid won't just pop over and over.

As for the "auto fires", weaverj is correct in my opinion:
- Boom Balloon pop up
- Outlanes if lit
- Spin targets
- Marvels completed

It is also possible to disable the cannon in the settings. I'm not sure if you can disable just some of the cannon shots.

#460 2 years ago

In the side show mode where it says "Fire that Cannon", the normal behavior is it will fire when you hit the button, but only every few seconds. There is no switch for the ball down by the solenoid so the game has no way of knowing the position of the ball. You get points every time the solenoid fires, whether the ball is there or not. You get extra points if it goes to the top and trips the switch in the single lane.

#461 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

In the side show mode where it says "Fire that Cannon", the normal behavior is it will fire when you hit the button, but only every few seconds. There is no switch for the ball down by the solenoid so the game has no way of knowing the position of the ball. You get points every time the solenoid fires, whether the ball is there or not. You get extra points if it goes to the top and trips the switch in the single lane.

Oh, that's interesting to know. It always lines up with the ball being set, so I figured it was just detecting the ball.

#462 2 years ago

You can adjust the 'wait time' of the cannon - like if you put a second or third ball in there, you can decrease the wait time to allow faster shots - both in the video mode, and when cannon shots are stacked (completing 'SPIN' and completing the marvel at the same time).

#463 2 years ago

i got same problem and in test mode it says backglass switch 11 or smth like that ... i also read that maybe ball dont have enough weight?!

its mechanical problem not softwere problem i am pretty sure .

once i turned on game it didnt reported switch problem and cannon ball worked for couple of times but after again like not have enough strenght or smth

#464 2 years ago

The tub that the cannon switch is mounted to is very weak and if cracked, the switch and/or solenoid will not function properly or not at all. I had to reinforce mine with epoxy and mesh.

2 weeks later
#465 2 years ago

Ok had little joy so far so thought would post this here on group, I have posted this in the wanted parts section as well. So trying everything. Any help appreciated.

Maybe I am mad but this is my Sleeper Project , I realised that I always seem to have had one of these , and then last couple of years my efforts got diverted to other stuff. So now its time to start the next project , No time limit , no budget limit , and will probably more a labour of love.

So the challenge. I got offered a badly damaged CV. In fact more accurately it's probably more like a bag of bits from a CV. It's a water damaged machine with a lot of bits missing. So for instance no,, no boards, lots of mechs missing , flippers , coils etc, but I have a cab and a bad play field that is partly populated, but they are badly damaged so need to be replaced. No problem I thought this is easy , you can source repro playfields and I also luckily have potential donor machine which is a NBA Fastbreak. So I could rob bits from that to get the CV working as it has the boards and flippers etc . Of course that's means a CV lives for a NBA to die, so not ideal but I was thinking , parts wise, between the two I should be ok, except the CV is missing machine specific toys to the machine and without them it's not possible to restore.

So that brings me to try and source them from pinside.

So I need help. I need the following:

Ringmaster mechanism, the main toy on the machine

Disappearing pop bumper mech – again a very specific toy to this machine

I am sure there's other bits missing but most other stuff I think I can source?
Condition does not matter as I just want to get it all working and then will look to do it up.

Anyone got anything , just sitting there , waiting to be restored , repaired , rescued ? Or know of someone who may have some bits, maybe some has has a spare play field with the bits I need. If so I would buy the whole thing as I am willing to look at anything?

I am based in the U.K. And we have a great pinball forum over here called pinball.info. If I can get these bits and get the project going will be posting progress pics and story over there and post a link on here of progress.

So let's try and bring a machine back from the dead, can anyone help?

#466 2 years ago
Quoted from Bluefishy:

Ok had little joy so far so thought would post this here on group, I have posted this in the wanted parts section as well. So trying everything. Any help appreciated.
Maybe I am mad but this is my Sleeper Project , I realised that I always seem to have had one of these , and then last couple of years my efforts got diverted to other stuff. So now its time to start the next project , No time limit , no budget limit , and will probably more a labour of love.
So the challenge. I got offered a badly damaged CV. In fact more accurately it's probably more like a bag of bits from a CV. It's a water damaged machine with a lot of bits missing. So for instance no,, no boards, lots of mechs missing , flippers , coils etc, but I have a cab and a bad play field that is partly populated, but they are badly damaged so need to be replaced. No problem I thought this is easy , you can source repro playfields and I also luckily have potential donor machine which is a NBA Fastbreak. So I could rob bits from that to get the CV working as it has the boards and flippers etc . Of course that's means a CV lives for a NBA to die, so not ideal but I was thinking , parts wise, between the two I should be ok, except the CV is missing machine specific toys to the machine and without them it's not possible to restore.
So that brings me to try and source them from pinside.
So I need help. I need the following:
Ringmaster mechanism, the main toy on the machine
Disappearing pop bumper mech – again a very specific toy to this machine
I am sure there's other bits missing but most other stuff I think I can source?
Condition does not matter as I just want to get it all working and then will look to do it up.
Anyone got anything , just sitting there , waiting to be restored , repaired , rescued ? Or know of someone who may have some bits, maybe some has has a spare play field with the bits I need. If so I would buy the whole thing as I am willing to look at anything?
I am based in the U.K. And we have a great pinball forum over here called pinball.info. If I can get these bits and get the project going will be posting progress pics and story over there and post a link on here of progress.
So let's try and bring a machine back from the dead, can anyone help?

I have a spare IPB CV PF. PM me.

#467 2 years ago

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

#468 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

Excellent! I hope you find a donor.

#469 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

I am going to do a PF swap very soon, so, I could possibly help. Is it the whole metal ball guide, or just the small bracket that holds the blue rubber piece? Feel free to PM me.

Marc

#470 2 years ago

Good to hear!
Now we just need someone with plastics experience to make the RM protector..!

#471 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Excellent! I hope you find a donor.

I feel confident I can find a donor, I'm willing to offer my labor on other projects (board work, general pin diagnostics, etc.) to make it happen.

#472 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Good to hear!
Now we just need someone with plastics experience to make the RM protector..!

I thought that none of those ever really worked very well - I've heard the metal one would get caught and bend and that the plastic ones never fit very well so they moved and caused wear. If people are interested maybe someone like indypinhead that does quite a bit of plastic work could come up with something.

#473 2 years ago

We are possibly purchasing a CV from a local used pinball distributor. It seems to play perfectly, but I do not know much about this game. We are going to see it again tomorrow and possibly buy it. I haven't had much experience in checking out the older games, is there any typical problem areas that we should look at more closely?

#474 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

Just from experience with Kerry, he will need it for 1-2 weeks tops. Everything I have ever sent him comes back in about 2 weeks. He is also very generous to folks who let him borrow parts.

#475 2 years ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

We are possibly purchasing a CV from a local used pinball distributor. It seems to play perfectly, but I do not know much about this game. We are going to see it again tomorrow and possibly buy it. I haven't had much experience in checking out the older games, is there any typical problem areas that we should look at more closely?

CVs are pretty well known for having ghosted inserts especially the "Ring" lightning bolt shaped ones and it's fairly common to have chips missing around at least one of the rollovers. The ghosting doesn't affect game play and you can put cliffys around the rollovers. As long as all the parts are there (including the blue nub of death holder referenced in the posts above this, which is often missing) you should be good. Make sure the neon works and it is neon (not LED), the flashers in the RM head work and check to see if it has the auto-eddy board in it to better register RM hits. The only other common problem that I can think of is that the switches for the highwire locks should be swapped out with roller actuators to make sure the balls clear more reliably. Might want to check to see if the Acrobats shot can be made properly, you can always adjust the ramp and guides later but it can be tricky to get it right, otherwise the ball flies off the wireform on hard shot or won't make it all the way on marginal shots.

#476 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I thought that none of those ever really worked very well - I've heard the metal one would get caught and bend and that the plastic ones never fit very well so they moved and caused wear. If people are interested maybe someone like indypinhead that does quite a bit of plastic work could come up with something.

I had the plastic one on both my sample CVs, and never had issues with them. I have one left over, and am saving it for my next CV.. you know, when I win the lotto. If they're not that desired, then if anyone has any extras, I'll buy them, too.

#477 2 years ago

sorry, guys:

Archived after 18 days
844 views
Not sold
Machine - For Sale
Cirqus Voltaire Archived
Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean “got it back in february from a pinside guy down in virginia. 6 months is about my limit for any game. it's pretty nice. main cabinet is great. a noticeable scratch or two on the l...”
2017-08-03
Gettysburg, PA
7,500

#478 2 years ago

Dont leave us!!!

Jk, glws!!

#479 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Might want to check to see if the Acrobats shot can be made properly, you can always adjust the ramp and guides later but it can be tricky to get it right, otherwise the ball flies off the wireform on hard shot or won't make it all the way on marginal shots.

Is there a way to adjust this? I posted on this guy's thread and never heard any answer - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-falling-off-acrobat-ramp-on-cv

#480 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

With regards to the metal guide that holds the Blue Nub of Death on the right side of the "SPIN" loop that is unobtanium https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-cirqus-voltaire-center-ramp-metal-protector#post-3068129 and many people have been looking for over the years. I talked to Kerry at Mantis and he said he could definitely produce it but he needs someone to send one to him so he can get all the measurements, etc. You'd receive a spare for your efforts and would be helping many owners who don't have one on their games (yours truly included). If you're willing to lend yours out for a week or so please PM me or send a note directly to Kerry - thanks!

I just bought one of these from pinbits! I emailed them directly trying to see if they had one laying around, and they surprisingly emailed me back and said yes! I will most likely get it this week, and I'll gladly send it to you if that means that more people can have it! Like I said, it's sight unseen right now, but I should know more very soon.

#481 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I just bought one of these from pinbits! I emailed them directly trying to see if they had one laying around, and they surprisingly emailed me back and said yes! I will most likely get it this week, and I'll gladly send it to you if that means that more people can have it! Like I said, it's sight unseen right now, but I should know more very soon.

That's crazy, I've e-mailed them at least a dozen times about that part and they have never responded once! Please PM me once you receive it.

#482 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there a way to adjust this? I posted on this guy's thread and never heard any answer - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-falling-off-acrobat-ramp-on-cv

Yes, but it's not real easy and requires a lot of trial and error. I spent hours on mine, slightly bending the wire form, adjusting the mounting angle, bending and adjusting the plastic guides that are there to keep the ball from flying off, etc. I finally have it to the point that a marginal shot will still make it and a blazing shot will hit the plastic guide, look like it's going to stop and go backwards but still go down the wire form and make the shot. I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker if the ball flies off on fast shots, most of them I've played are like that and you can tweak it to remedy the problem.

#483 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That's crazy, I've e-mailed them at least a dozen times about that part and they have never responded once! Please PM me once you receive it.

Yeah, random luck I guess! I'll PM you right away.

#484 2 years ago

New member to the club! Its a grail pin that i never thought i would ever own. Pins in excellent shape, clearcoated playfield, chrome side rails and lockdown bar. Color dmd and brand new plastics. It was led color bombed but i will correct that in a few days.

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#485 2 years ago

Heres a pic of the gi almost fixed and some inserts. I have to place a order with cointaker to correct the rest of the colorbomb.

IMG_1279 (resized).JPG

#486 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Heres a pic of the gi almost fixed and some inserts. I have to place a order with cointaker to correct the rest of the colorbomb.

I'm a huge fan of this game with only a color splash. I've seen some cool ones with vibrant colors, but overall I'm with you on ripping that stuff out.

#487 2 years ago

the most contested topic in pinball is lighting. i used to be all white, then tried some colored in a BSD and liked it a lot. CV looks pretty good the way i did it. some games are harder than others. as long as there isn't a lot of art on the plastics, color can usually be done with care.

some colors work better than others. pink, purple and ice blue give a nice mild glow. red, yellow and blue are too strong and wash out the plastics and playfield art too much. green and cyan are kind of in the middle.

definitely don't like "color matched" inserts. i use white and nothing else. color in the backbox is also pretty bad, imo.

at least you're using led's and not incandescents. that's the important thing.

#488 2 years ago

Hey shovelhed, real nice CV and happy to see another local owner!
But that corner of the room looks like it misses your MET buddy!!

#489 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Hey shovelhed, real nice CV and happy to see another local owner!
But that corner of the room looks like it misses your MET buddy!!

Nope!

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#490 2 years ago

#491 2 years ago

Does anyone know where you could get a replacement high wire? A part of mine has come unsoldered, and I would love to get it replaced. I can find a metal worker to fix it, but then it will need re-chromed.

#492 2 years ago

Anyone making the neon tubes? I would like to get one in aqua blue. Any leads would be great!

#493 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Anyone making the neon tubes? I would like to get one in aqua blue. Any leads would be great!

Bay Area amusements. I got my red tube from them.

#494 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I thought that none of those ever really worked very well - I've heard the metal one would get caught and bend and that the plastic ones never fit very well so they moved and caused wear. If people are interested maybe someone like indypinhead that does quite a bit of plastic work could come up with something.

You've heard wrong. The metal thing is complete BS, does not hold up at all.

The plastic protector set is one of the greatest, most functional and cleanest ("original looking") mods ever. It completely corrects the heavily flawed original design. Also the magnet "fling" is stronger due to the plastic "lid" and it also fits the Ringmasters top much nicer than the original metal disc.

It's made for original production PFs. If you cleared the inside of the hole or are using a repro-PF it will likely not fit correctly. If it would be lose (unlikely, mine fits 110%) it wouldn't damage anything, it's made from a rather soft, flexible plastic. And it's ultra thin on the top, you can hardly feel the rim on the PF at all. I think that's why it's so incredibly expensive to make.

IMG_2411 (resized).JPG

#495 2 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Anyone making the neon tubes? I would like to get one in aqua blue. Any leads would be great!

I may start making custom ones again, but it will be a few months, if I do. Unsure yet, but if I do, I'll let folks here know, of course.

#496 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

You've heard wrong. The metal thing is complete BS, does not hold up at all.
The plastic protector set is one of the greatest, most functional and cleanest ("original looking") mods ever. It completely corrects the heavily flawed original design. Also the magnet "fling" is stronger due to the plastic "lid" and it also fits the Ringmasters top much nicer than the original metal disc.
It's made for original production PFs. If you cleared the inside of the hole or are using a repro-PF it will likely not fit correctly. If it would be lose (unlikely, mine fits 110%) it wouldn't damage anything, it's made from a rather soft, flexible plastic. And it's ultra thin on the top, you can hardly feel the rim on the PF at all. I think that's why it's so incredibly expensive to make.

Where do you get that plastic one?? I've been looking for that for months!

#497 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Where do you get that plastic one?? I've been looking for that for months!

Not made any more. Haven't been for a long while, unfortunately. I was lucky, I found a pinsider selling one and picked it up. I bought one for both of the sample games I used to own, and when I get CV back into my collection, I'll put this one on it.

#498 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Not made any more. Haven't been for a long while, unfortunately. I was lucky, I found a pinsider selling one and picked it up. I bought one for both of the sample games I used to own, and when I get CV back into my collection, I'll put this one on it.

How does it attach to the play-field? I don't understand why someone couldn't make these again, they seem so much more logical than the metal one. It even seems like something which could be 3d printed with the correct materials.

#499 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

How does it attach to the play-field? I don't understand why someone couldn't make these again, they seem so much more logical than the metal one. It even seems like something which could be 3d printed with the correct materials.

Not sure if a 3D printer is up to the job. It's a very sturdy but kind of flexible soft plastic. And it's extremely thin at the edges. It's not rocket science, but it is a special sort of plastic.
It sits in the hole like a car rim...if you get what i mean?

Maybe this picture helps.

IMG_4166 (resized).JPG

#500 2 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Not sure if a 3D printer is up to the job. It's a very sturdy but kind of flexible soft plastic. And it's extremely thin at the edges. It's not rocket science, but it is a special sort of plastic.
It sits in the hole like a car rim...if you get what i mean?
Maybe this picture helps.

It uses a different top plate? What is that one made out of? I don't understand why I can't just buy the damn thing from someone! Who originally made them?

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