Call Lloyd!

You should know.

Never had a sound issue!

My first thought was the audio cables. I know you said you checked them all methodically, but did that include both inside and outside the computer case? There is an individual sound card inside the computer case.

Only board in there with RCA jacks.

LTG : )

Page C-14 and C-15 in manual.

LTG : )

I mean just issues. But all good now.

Mine makes a humming sound from the speakers that gets louder and softer as the lights get brighter and weaker when the game is not being played. It seems to go away during play. I keep not getting around to calling for a ticket since it only started after I replaced the boards on warranty.

It's the routing of the wiring that probably got moved when you replaced the battery. There is a thread on here somewhere about that and where to move the cable and big core thing to minimize it.

I made a video.

Better call Saul...err, Lloyd.

There has been in line filter that randomly fail. Plugs from the computer to the amp... Cheap part, replace it

Is that the box looking deal? There is also one for the rear audio out? Little black box?

Yes, two of them. One in the back of the cabinet and one inside the metal box with the boards. Easy to swap them to see if an issue moves.

LTG : )™

I got a new WOZ this weekend and it had a speaker buzzing issue. I did the steps in this video and its 99% better now (I can still hear a bit of interference at some parts of the demo-attract mode when there is no music/sound playing).

Debating if it is worth the effort or doing some more trial and error of moving the cables around to try and get more distance between the data cables and the audio cables or adding some sort of shielding or something. Has anyone tried adding some of those snap on ferrite cores to the cables to see if that helps?

Yes that's failed internally before. Last one I saw cap inside literal came off the board on one leg

I did, without any luck. Re-routing cables worked for me as well.

Interesting. I wonder if the EM field from the data cables is interfering with the audio PCB directly and not just the audio cable. Might be worth a try to place a small EM screen/fabric over the audio board to see if that helps.

Please read my post above. It's a small black plastic box with wires.

LTG : )

See the white, red, yellow RCA plugs ? behind them and a little to the right is one of the filters.

LTG : )

IMG_0486.jpg

The key (IMO) is to keep the audio wires separated from the DC power cables. The LED power cables carry high varying currents and can easily couple into the audio cables. The data cables should not radiate as much due to the lower currents but there may be some stray LED currents on those cables.
If you hear noise in the audio and it tracks with the LED light show, reroute the audio cables until the noise is minimized.

Isolation transformer:
I have seen one case where an isolation transformer failed due to a bad solder joint. The audio would cut in and out when I wiggled one of the cables going into the isolation box. It was pretty easy to open and fix.

Finally for some older machines (2014?), make sure you check the audio cable header connector. If the sound cuts in and out when you wiggle the cable at the PC, replace the cable with a 3.5 to 3.5 mm premium cable from Monoprice #9764. The new cable plugs into the green audio connector on the back of the CPU.

On newer models, replace the 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with the same Monoprice #9764. The Monoprice cable has a slightly larger diameter barrel and makes a better connection to the green audio connector on the back of the PC board. This will solve your "callouts" issues.
Feel free to contract me with questions.
Thanks,
Mark

There are two of the filters in the game. One inside the metal box with the boards and one on the back wall of the cabinet. Swap them and see if things change.

LTG : )

its the connector hot glued on the mother board

Its the 4 pin cable on the motherboard that goes to the pinovation board from the motherbôard

Also check the rear output sound cable sometimes that gets pulled out

Do you have some spare audio cables that you can swap in? It certainly sounds like a flaky electrical connection somewhere and it would be nice to rule out the cables.

pm sent

So it was a 3.5mm audio cable?

So far bypassing the audio filter worked for mine. We'll see after a few days.

Forgive me for bumping an old thread.

I seem to have developed this or a similar problem. I’ve checked all the external connections, but haven’t yet looked inside the PC.

However, what’s slightly different is that my call-outs are almost non-existent, and changing the mix settings has no effect. Sound effects and music are fine - and loud. Running test mode and doing a sweep I don’t hear any dead ranges, so I don’t think it’s a bad band-pass filter.

Does this sound familiar to the problem described in this thread? To me it sounded like all audio was being disrupted, or just one channel.

Thanks.

Tell me what model - boards In Bottom of cabinet or in backbox ?

Bottom. If memory serves it’s a late 2014 build. 7.5v 1.1 lighting boards.

First bypass the noise filter plugged into the pink input Jack on the sound card. If you have the one going to the back of the cabinet you can steal it and replace your primary one.

For anyone coming across this thread later, it was the noise filter. Ironically, the second noise filter, which was likely never used, was also faulty.

Hi everyone,

For those who have problems like sounds fading away, dropping out or strange volume levels.

I noticed my during my games that the audio was not aways the same, then at a certain point I lost all my backbox audio, subwoofer was working fine. So I started looking and ruling things out.

- Test menu, speaker test confirmed that both L + R speaker was out
- Swapping cables at the speaker end did not change anything
- Swapping cables in the cabinet did not make a different
- I connected the SUB wire (yellow) to the left and right chanel in the cabinet. There came sound from the woofer, so the amp was fine.
- Then I attached a wire from the speaker directly to the amp, without result

So the problem had to be in the backbox speakers. I removed the 5 screws on the top and pulled the speaker bar out and started measuring.

The impedance of each speaker was fine, so I started looking at the wires. As expected there was nothing here. So I took my multi-meter en measured resistance, and that was the point where I noticed the problem. When I measured from the inside (middle) of plug back to speaker, resistance was almost 0. Then I measured the outside to the speaker and this was way off, eighter high resistance or Open Circuit.

Then I looked at the solder joints of the plug and noticed they were installed wrong. The "outer solder joint" was placed under a isolator washer and the nut was on top of that washer. This is not right, because the point of contact is only the inside of the ring and not the complete back.

When you install it, the right way would be: Washer, Wood, Washer, ring and then the nut.

So to solve this:
- Use your solder iron to remove the red cable on the middle pin.
- The your pliers and loosen the connector on the front
- Remove the connecter and change the order of the Isolater washer. Wood, Isolator washer, Ring and then the Nut
- Put everything back together and solder the red wire back

WoZ Speaker Problem (resized).jpg