(Topic ID: 46741)

Weird power problems with STTNG

By GabeKnuth

11 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by GabeKnuth
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 11 years ago

Ok, I'm starting to think that pinball ownership is like 40% play, 60% work.

A weird thing happened to me tonight on STTNG. Last ball, had two balls left in play during the Borg multi ball. Both balls came out of the popper and when I hit the left flipper nothing happened. When I hit it again (perhaps with a little extra force ) the game went dark and the display went wonky. You could kind of make out what was happening, but there was garbage on the screen, too. After a second or two, the display went dark, everything lit back up again, and the display acted like nothing happened. It was not quite a cold reset...it picked right back up where it left off, even did the match and post-game routine.

In the last week I've had a couple times where the left flipper also doesn't behave properly, but it works the second time I push it.

I also had a weird thing happen the other night when locating a burned out flasher. I had the game propped up on the kickstand with the coin door closed so I had high power. I reached in the side to cycle through the test menu, and when I did the game did a hard reset. I don't know what I hit, but it easily could have been the right flipper.

I recall reading the description for a thermistor at Marco, and I'm wondering if that might be the cause? I hate when this stuff happens at the end of the week!

#2 11 years ago

I'm too tired to start troubleshooting now, but I'll go through the transformer connectors tomorrow. I replaced J120 and J121 with Molex connectors a few weeks ago after one of the pins on J121 fried. I checked all the other IDC connectors, too, but I guess messing with them could have caused things to loosen up even more.

Any place I should focus on first? It's been eons since I did any hardcore electronics work. I can solder well enough, and I've done plenty of board work, but troubleshooting board components isn't my strong suit, so if there's something I should look at on the board, please tell me how to test it

Thanks

#3 11 years ago

Could there be a diode issue on the flippers? I've been searching around and have seen that come up. That would mean that it wasn't related to the lamp testing or I have a lot of stuff going on!

#4 11 years ago

Connectors seem ok. I've got a few BR's on the way from Great Plains (although Ed is closed until next week, so that stinks), plus the thermistor just in case. I'll replace the diodes just in case, too...would appreciate a point in the right direction, though, rather than the shotgun approach.

Thanks,
Gabe

#5 11 years ago

Don't replace the BRs yet. They most likey are fine. Instead pull the whole P/D board out inspect the solder points and traces. Put the board back in, there's a good poisbility it will stop after this. My TZ was doing similar things a couple months back and this fixed it.

Oh and pinball is more like 20% play 80% work for me.

#6 11 years ago

Does that explain the flipper problem since those go to a different board?

#7 11 years ago

The flippers go to the power driver board. The one with all the transistors on it. Should be the bottom board in the box. Yes, they go to that board. While you have it out, you can test the corrosponding transisitors to the flippers.

#8 11 years ago

Oh...what's the Fliptronic board in the upper left corner do, then? Is that just the logic to give the flippers the same feel as they used to have despite the fact that they're optos? If so...whoa.

#9 11 years ago

My guess is that holds the logic for the flippers in this particular game, though not 100% positive. You should be able to trace back the hot leads from the coil lugs to the P/D board. The power to the flippers comes from there as that’s where the BRs are located. You can look at the schematic you can find which transistors they go to. I would pull and re-seat the fliptronic board as well. I know it seems trivial but, it often times just need everything reseated and the board tightened properly against the cabinet.

#10 11 years ago

Actually after looking at some pics of the fliptronics board, that may be the one stop place for the flippers on STTNG (I've never had to service mine at the board level). It appears to have a BR, tranistors, logic the whole pacakge. I would start there and reseat connections it may have to the CPU or P/D board. Also, make sure the wires are snug down in the connectors.

If nothing else, a new one can be had for $64.

http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=257

#11 11 years ago

I wouldn't suspect a flipper power problem, so don't mess with the bridges. They are not easy to replace without damaging the board.

As bigdaddy said reseat all the connectors on the Fliptronics board and inspect it. There's also a cable that goes back to the CPU, reseat that cable at the CPU.

I think sttng uses optos on the flipper switches so there won't be any diodes on the switches. Clean the optos with alcohol while you're at it and check the opto board.

Wiggle the two connectors you worked on while the game is on and see if the problem arises.

Go into diagnostics, with the coin door closed, and hit both flippers at the same time a few times and see if you get a reset (although it doesn't sound like a classic reset issue).

Replacing the thermistor is for reset problems, and this doesn't sound like a classic reset problem.

Check your 5 volts and 12 volts.

#12 11 years ago

Thanks guys, I'll give all that a shot. I've been dreading my first backbox problems...let's hope it's an easy one. I feel really comfortable working my way through the playfield. I guess this is a decent intro to the next phase of working on these things.

#13 11 years ago

You might have a hack at your watchdog circuit. If the game had reset issues, someone may have hacked out the 5v check. That means your game is dipping below operating voltage, but not resetting. Look and see if anything is missing or cut out on your CPU board.

#14 11 years ago

Personally I replaced the power driver board and aux driver in my STTNG. They both eventually go bad- so I put new ones in.

You could also send both boards to coinop cauldron for a check up. They'll take good care of you.

Likely something's on it's way out on the board.

Good luck!

#15 11 years ago

Hey, Cleveland! I'm from there originally...Olmsted Falls. "Watchdog" is a new term to me. Is it something that maintains 5v somehow?

#16 11 years ago

Check out this little gem. Seems there were two wires going into the flipper opto wiring connector (black and blue) that were spliced but never covered by a previous owner. What are the chances that these touched each other or something else and caused my problem?

IMG_2656.jpgIMG_2656.jpg

#17 11 years ago

Anyone know what that dangling connector by the plumb bob is for? There doesn't appear to be anything nearby. Bill validator, maybe?

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from GabeKnuth:

Seems there were two wires going into the flipper opto wiring connector (black and blue) that were spliced but never covered by a previous owner. What are the chances that these touched each other or something else and caused my problem?

Pretty good.

I love visual inspections.

Not sure on the conncector, but would guess bill validator.

#19 11 years ago

Just wanted to update this thread and point to the follow-up thread that I used to document the actual problem with this. Turns out I have a CPU board problem, either with the blanking circuit (which I think is also called that Watchdog circuit) or the CPU/ASIC themselves. Yuck.

Anyway, here's the thread. If anyone is a logic guru and can offer analysis, that'd be great. As it stands, I think I've got it isolated to those components though.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lights-cutting-out-on-sttng-not-resetting-though

#20 11 years ago
Quoted from GabeKnuth:

Anyone know what that dangling connector by the plumb bob is for? There doesn't appear to be anything nearby. Bill validator, maybe?

Yes, that's for a DBV

#21 11 years ago

Send to Coin-Op Caldron. Clive will fix it. Tape up those wires. Good luck!!

#22 11 years ago

I'll take a stab at it first. I've done board work before, but was trying to avoid it because I didn't have a soldering station. I ordered one of those and a handfull of chips from Mouser and I'll give it a whirl. I have to replace U5 and U21.

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