Overland Park, KS
Removing 2.5 to 3 full wraps from the affected coils is what brought my Slick Chick into balance.
(Topic ID: 261624)
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Slick Chick
Gottlieb, 1963
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The bottom blade in your photo connects to the spoon switch through the clamp bolt that holds that switch stack to the mounting bracket.
The bottom switch is an end of stroke switch that is supposed to release power to the pop bumper relay as soon as the pop bumper strokes.
It is all good as it exists today.
Quoted from cperro:dgAmpGuy I looked at those but they had only 1 wire connection on the spoon switch but 2 connections on the bottom switch while mine was reversed (2 on spoon switch, 1 on bottom). The more I look at mine though, it looks like none of these pop bumper assemblies may be original (they look too new compared to the rest of the parts in the cabinet). I'm thinking the originals may have been replaced at some point with 17108's. I'm guessing it doesn't make a big difference, they would just be wired a little differently.
PinballAir I didn't think about checking there, makes sense though, thanks.
I buy blank switch blades and loose contacts from PBR and build my own replacement switch blades when I find a broken one like you have on this pop bumper. And on the pop bumpers is where I replace the most.
Go to the Common Switch Parts section here to select what you really need.
http://pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm
Be sure to get a few of each of the different thickness blades and measure the thickness of a good example in the game with a micrometer. It makes a difference to select the correct thickness blade.
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