May just need rebuilt, or the flipper opto board needs cleaned or it cld just need ajusted which all wld be the usual suspects . What exactly did you swap? Just move the right to left?

Did you desolder both and swap ? If not then that dont really prove anything....

Both lower flippers should be FL-11629 according to the manual.

Heres few things....

Well there's your problem then isn't it?

yes and don't forget to clean or replace the end of stroke leaf switch.

Wait I'm lost - do you guys have different manuals? Lol seems odd for stock setup to be different windings on the coils.

Disregarding that they are different windings, If you desolder the coils and swap and the problem follows you've proved the only issue is that you have 2 different coils... although that seems likely to be the case anyway given the results of swapping coils but leaves cab switches in the unknown.

He said that he did not desolder; he just swapped them.

OP, heat the solder joints on the coils just enough to re-heat the solder until it becomes a shiny liquid. That'll wipe out any possibilities of cold solder joints. If the problem goes away, it was a cold solder joint.

If not that, take a business card or a firm piece of thin cardboard and squeeze your EOS shut(basically cleaning the two contact points). If that doesn't do it, you could replace the coil sleeves and see if that fixes things.

Personally, I'd make sure my coils matched what was in the manual, and then I'd do a flipper rebuild on the main pair of flippers and call it a day:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=244

Yeah -- reread what I posted. Given the results of swapping coils.. I was saying to try desoldering and switching coils. It's doubtful that coil sleaves would cause that much drag, so if you swap coils and solder the left coil into the right side wiring and it switches which flipper is strong, there's little else it can be but that coil is that much more powerful.

Right at the beginning of the manual on ipdb it lists both flipper coils with the same part number

Sounds like one of those coils needs to get changed out then..

Coil is usually binary, works or not. Little gray area is there when it has started to melt and is partly internally shorted. Main reasons are usually mechanical, especially too tight gap vertically is bad (=plunger has no space to move freely when entering solenoid and can cause drag). My thumb of rule is that if coil sleeve is hard to get of or put new one inside coil, it's good to replace the coil. That means that coil is "Swollowed" because of heat and is not in factory specs. This also causes that electronics has to "work harder" which affects it's life span.

Fliptronics board should be inspected also, measure all transistors, check all the board traces etc.

EOS has no affect on fliptronics-game. It's just to return flipper to up-position if something pushes flipper back down when hold up. Fliptronics gives 40ms pulse to power-coil to make actual hit, then switches to hold-coil to keep flipper up. WPC works quite fine without EOS.