(Topic ID: 217826)

Weak left flipper - out of ideas

By PinballRusch

5 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by MikeO
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#1 5 years ago

Hi all. I’ve got a machine I recently sold that is on location. With the purchase, I offered a one-hour comp diagnosis if any issues came up. That said, I threw two comp hours at this flipper issue and am out of ideas. Just trying to help these folks out even though they knew full well they were buying a 40 year old machine that would likely have some issues come up. I’m just trying to do the right thing.

Ok, so here’s what I did. Before selling it, (among a whole list of cleaning and adjustments) I replaced the power cord and installed a complete flipper rebuild kit. I had more than 50 plays on the machine before selling and everything worked great.

Now when I say the flipper is weak, I mean if ball hits from the base to half way out from the flipper pivot point, it seems to launch the ball well. When using the tip of the flipper, the weight of the ball only allows for ~3 inches of ball movement and the flipper struggles to complete the sweep.

What I did in the last couple days.
1. Checked the contact points from left flipper button and have them spotless clean and making good contact. Wires are soldered well at that switch.
2. Removed the left flipper coil and replaced with another of the same ohm resistance. (No change)
3. Swapped the left and right coils. (Issue stayed with the left flipper).
4. Cleaned all the Jones plugs (harness connectors) that follow the flipper wires for power and button switch.
5. Found a switch wire at the rear most jones plug (essentially under the backbox) was not soldered. Cleaned and then made a good solder connection. (Seriously thought that would resolve the issue, but no change)
6. Pull tested and visually checked every Jones plug connection in the circuit at the soldered points. (All we’re good)
7. Cleaned all the fuse contacts.
8. Unplugged all other powered machines in the building sharing the same electrical power source and tested the flipper. (No change).
9. Checked wire harness at the hold down points and near the coils on the “cabinet board” where the harness runs from the rear of the cabinet to the front... looking for wires that were worn through or burned. Nothing seemed irregular.
10. There is no contact between the flipper bat and the playfield, nor is there any binding issues under the playfield.
11. The flipper bat is tightly screwed to the coil plunger assembly.

The only things I can think of at this point is to assume there is a bad wire for the button switch circuit. And would need to run some alligator clip wires from the flipper coil to the other connection points. Or possibly just closing the circuit to cut out the EOS and the flipper button and everything else... checking every wire one at a time.
Second thought would be to move the transformer from 24 volts to the high line. Not sure that makes sense though.

I looked through the schematic and there simply isn’t anything else in this circuit that wouldn’t affect both flippers.

If anyone has some suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

#2 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballRusch:

If anyone has some suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.

From flipper lugs to far away where it pops up again, I'd try a jumper wire. See if things improve. I'm thinking you have a weak solder joint, weak connection, or a weak wire not letting current through.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago

Compare when the EOS opens between flippers. Maybe you are switching to hold power too soon through the flipper stroke.

#4 5 years ago

I agree with the dr. I had the same weak flipper issues with my machine when I rebuilt. The EOS switch is not adjusted properly out of the box and needs to be set to only open at the end of the flipper stroke.

Also check the contacts on the EOS itself. They might be defective and need cleaning.

#5 5 years ago

Omission of basics.
Name, year, manufacturer
Important for basic troubleshooting.
Reference point for future requests.

All these various diagnostic checks, but no mention of actual live wire voltage going to the coil with a DMM. It provides basic indications of potential power before an EoS engaged dependent on game design. While inspecting check the lugs, potential cold solder joints, and broken windings. The problem can still be mechanical binding or even the coil itself.

Start using a DMM to your advantage.

A game is not high tapped to fix flipper problems, it is tapped due to input line voltage shortfalls.

Keep flipping.

IMG_20180526_230033 (resized).jpgIMG_20180526_230033 (resized).jpg

#6 5 years ago

I get more use out of Alligator clip jumper wires

Pinball (resized).pngPinball (resized).png

#7 5 years ago

I nhave had EM flipper pawls that weren't crimped together correctly allowing slop. these were purchased new, and seemed to be a manufacturing defect. a spot weld shored it right up.

#8 5 years ago

Also check to make sure the EOS switch is firmly screwed to the bracket it mounts to. I had rebuilt the flippers on my buddy's em game and after a while i noticed the flippers gradually got weaker. Finally opened it up and discovered the eos switches were both a little loose. Tightening them up fixed it!

Good luck!

#9 5 years ago

Sloppy flipper action is usually the flipper fiber links are bad with elongated holes. Or one or both of the EOS wires are intermittently bad.

#10 5 years ago

Sorry the basics didn’t get included in the post. I selected the game title in the forum field but now that you pointed it out, I do t see it linked here.

1976 Williams Blue Chip

#11 5 years ago

Jump the EOS for a test run. Don't hold it like that.

#12 5 years ago

Have a look at my post here in Vids flipper rebuild thread. It’s a bit long but it describes how I was able to resolve this same problem. It has to do with setting up the EOS switch with good tension against the extra spring leaf. The difference between my left and right flipper was very small and very difficult to see with a visual comparison. But when I made this adjustment it immediately fixed the problem on the weak flipper.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/26#post-3003646

#13 5 years ago

Eliminate the EOS switch like newmantjn suggested above.

Simple test would be to jumper between both leafs of the EOS switch.

Second item is to be sure the EOS is open only at the very end of the flipper stroke. If opening too early, as suggested above, will present as a weak flipper.

#14 5 years ago

Hi all. Sorry for the delay we had some medical issues come up so I was just first able to get to the arcade tonight for the first time since you all made the above suggestions.

It was the EOS. The gap opened too soon and with a 2 second adjustment it was fixed.

I’m floored! Not that I’m surprised by all you, but because I spent three hours with the hood up previously and never thought in a million years bending the switch less than 1/8 inch would do anything.

You guys blow me away. Thank you so much for once again sending me excellent advice!

#15 5 years ago

Yup, and another symptom I've found with misadjusted EOS flipper switches is flipper chatter or pulsating when energized. Those switches have to open at the very end of stroke, hence the name.

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

If opening too early, as suggested above, will present as a weak flipper.

Time I checked my game.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from Chrisbee:

Quoted from MikeO:
If opening too early, as suggested above, will present as a weak flipper.

Time I checked my game.

It really is amazing how much difference it can make. I've revisited a few of my games on this subject after playing them as received for some time and it can make it a totally different(read faster) game.

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