I don't know about the exact "latest on the line" but I can tell you my LE is #671 and I just accepted delivery Aug 1st. The cabinet says it was manufactured July 2022 but doesn't give an exact date. I'd imagine they're going to start the CE's once the first 1k LE's get made. Also if it means anything I love the game and can't stop playing it! I've had a couple hiccups but that's to be expected. I was playing yesterday when the flippers died and the screen said "Check PIN I/O board" (Or something like that) I just wiggled the cables in the back box a bit and it seems to have fixed it- maybe a loose connection from shipping? Also the "Take a chance" wheel keeps saying it has detected a malfunction but I've been able to just do a calibration in the settings to fix it.

I do have this same concern.

Wonka is the best coded JJP so far IMO. We've been playing it for three years solid and still it keeps us going.

Can’t Karl work his way through Pure Imagination quickly as well? I mean we are talking about one of the best here…

Has Karl done a stream of Wonka’s wizard mode, Pure Imagination?

If so.. I cannot find it.

Karl is an absolute legend, no question. I actually avoided his streams because I didn't want spoilers.

Then I watched Zach's stream where he got to the carousel on the first game...

Well, I believe I see why. Not all of us have a pool house. You're clearly not dealing with the amount of money that most of us have. The price, for what you're getting, is super off kilter. It seems that money is more frivolously available to you, and perhaps that's why it doesn't hit you the same way as someone that could get two machines, each with more to them, than this singular one.

Which wouldn't be terrible IF that was really the halfway point and the "other" path to truly complete the game wasn't the exact same process, only a little harder with ZERO new content to reward you.

I feel like JJP will HAVE to dress it a bit more with additional side modes to break things up a bit, like they had to do with Dialed In to break up the cell phone mode death march. We'll see.

Can someone do me a favor if you happen to have the PF up? I had an issue with the take a chance wheel just spinning on boot and found that the opto circuit board had come loose under the wheel. I was able to adjust it fine but found nothing is keeping it place.. I feel like there should be some e-clips or nuts or something there that maybe got missed?. I went to look it up in the manual and was not able to find that mech documented there (which I thought was strange, unless I have totally missed it). If you could snap a pic of what's holding on yours it would be much appreciated. Regardless, will open up a ticket with JJP

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No surprise it wasn't in the terrible manual for Toy Story 4. They don't even have the FLIPPER MECHS in there. Completely left them out. Inexcusable sloppy work for a supposed top-tier manufacturer. How the mighty have fallen. JJP was the undisputed BEST manuals in pinball, and now are moshing at the bottom of the list for the WORST manual spot in pinball. The manual with parts callouts on a PREMIUM machine isn't the place to cut corners.

What am I looking at? Try backing away a bit and if you're using an iphone hold your finger on the focal point until it puts a box around it and focus locks it then send that pic.

It's the back of the take a chance wheel under the PF. I was zooming in to try and get a better idea of the posts that opto board sites on, will take a further out pic shortly.

the game just released and Wonka is on 2.0 give it time guys! I am sure Joe and Pat are committed to this being a legacy game

My machine had same issue. They just click into the posts to hold in place.

But Pat's not there anymore, is he?

Taking a break but still with the company.Joe Katz and crew will work on improving code just like they did for DI and Wonka

totally agree and Wonka is a masterpiece

You have enough disposable income to own 7 pinball machines and you’re giving Robby a hard time about enjoying Toy Story and Wonka? Lol

Just added mirror blades for those interested in how they look in TS4

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well done! Kind of fits a funhouse carnival theme too! Thanks for sharing

Thanks! I thought so too. And you are welcome

When I turned on my game today I was greeted with these two error messages in the Test Report. When I tried to navigate to what was causing the issue the menu didnt go any further than just showing the text. I checked my back box and noticed that three LEDs weren't on. Does anyone have suggestions on what to do? I'm already speaking with JJP about the Wheel position but figured i'd post here too. I've checked what I believe was every cable/connection in the game. Also I tried to close and open the coin door but the LEDs never came on.

Thanks,

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Pull and check fuse F701 with a meter.

LTG : )

This is my first JJP game so I'm sorry if this is a silly question. But is FH701 the fuse you're talking about? It LOOKS fine but we all know a metered test is the only way to be sure.

Thanks,

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Too cool.

Even though it is on the fuse stream to the three fuses that don't have their LEDs lit.

So either F701 is bad, or you lost 70 volts, which isn't likely since fuses F707 and F708 have their LEDs lit.

LTG : )

Listen to ^^^, you cannot test fuses by eyeballing them and you can't really test them in circuit either. Gotta pull it out and test with a meter in continuity test (beep) mode.

Now, the problem with a blown fuse is...something made it blow. Perhaps something shorted out when your wheel board was loose.

NEW SDTM: Toy Story 4 Pinball Review

Awesome thanks guys!

Zach said in the TS4 review video that he heard Pat is not at JJP anymore. 8m 33s in.

Just an update to my post earlier. I was able to pull FH701 and tested it successfully with a multimeter in Continuity mode. (It made the beep). I put the fuse back in place but am still experiencing the same no power issue. I also noticed when I powered off the game there were three LEDs still lit in the backbox? Also I noticed that my left flipper DID work when I had the coin door open in just the main menus but WITHOUT the interlock being pulled? Not sure how thats possible? To top this off the right flippers DID NOT work regardless of the interlock switch being closed or pulled open.

Thanks,

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Just an update-- to my update lol I was able to fix the game! (With Brian's help from JJP) It ended up being the wires from the transformer connection in the lower cabinet were slightly loose causing a bad connection. After giving the wires a gentle push EVERYTHING works now! Also I was informed that v1.08 is available to download over Wi-Fi and it has some improvements to the wheel.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions along the way,

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One of these ones is not like the other (but not for long). Lermods backbox LED’s bring the cabinet to life. I chose cool white for TS4, may go warm for Wonka. Easy 5-min install.

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wow huge difference looks like I need 3 sets including my GNR

Would the ce glass need this too?

Guessing yes. My WW CE back glass is pretty dark

Toured the plant today with Eric and had a great time. Saw Steve walk by and they had a bunch of Toy Story’s on the line being made. Very cool seeing them being assembled and they have a Very clean and well organized shop. Played Toy Story for the first time and while it is not a theme for me to purchase, it is a fun shooting game!

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thanks for posting, looks good, nice and even lighting. These are not standard leds, more of a tube type lighting so you don't see the individual LEDs, and they cast light 180 degrees unlike traditional SMD type leds. These a brighter and more vibrant and because they cast light widely, they eliminate shadows and dark spots as you can see in the pic. These also have an added benefit of drawing less power than traditional LEDs.

Yep, CE is the same as standard/LE translights in terms of the look you get from these lights.

We offer them in cool white and warm white and it's pretty much a toss up which to use for TS, GNR WOZ and Wonka. The one above is shown in cool white, I have warm white on my GNR. DI should get cool white I think while Hobbit gets warm. These are plug and play and install in 5 mins or less.

I’ll probably order some. A video of what it looks like or pics would be cool inside.

I put the cool whites on my Wonka and they look fantastic.

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Nice! I need to mod my Wonka with the cool whites.How do you like that topper?Some complained about how bright it is.What do you think?

The backbox becomes so bright with the lermods kit you kind of forget about the topper brightness on Wonka. Here's what they look like on GnR (these are also cool white). Haven't had great success with them on WOZ however, they look like crap on WOZ so I just went back to the stock strip.

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That topper so much cooler than the CE topper

They do have at least one thing in common: both are flat paint on the armor…looking forward to seeing the chrome red on the TS4 CE combined with the Sparkle Blue WW together….

Since the manual was missing flipper mechanisms, and thus the flipper coil information, I haven't been able to confirm. My left flipper is having all sorts of power problems. It looks it was possibly mounted improperly, but even when flipping it properly it still seems to lack power needed.

I noticed that the left flipper was using coil: FL-11629, while the right flipper uses FL-15411, similar to both coils in my Dialed in. Can anyone else confirm you have two different flipper coils and that they match these?

Thanks.

Yes that is correct. Open up your flipper coil and check the sleeve to make sure it's proper and okay.

For me, the coil stop for the right flipper came right off on about game number 3. After that, I went around and checked all the other coil stops and found about a quarter of them to be loose. Easy enough to snug them back up. An easy thing that might be worth checking.

153 ranking...can someone explain what has happened with this pin??

Haven't looked but since it's people on the internet, I can guess it's rage-votes due to enormous expectations and a relatively high price.

Actually, owners seem to be pretty satisfied with it.

Anyone else get stuck with a machine that had the lockbar receiver mounted way too high on the front of the cabinet? Mine is mounted flush with the top of the wood such that the glass scrapes across it and the lockbar sits about 3/8" above the side rails. Unfortunately going to have to drill out the lockbar receiver mounting points to drop it lower into the cabinet given its height is largely dictated by the bolts running through the front of the cabinet......ugh. Other than that I've had zero gameplay issues in the first 50 games, which is amazing by any manufacturers standards.

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