Toy Story 4 (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2022
Toy Story 4 (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2022Quoted from flynnibus:Wood playfields don't become something else just because they raised the price. Put away the magnifying glass.
Agreed.
Also the "clear coat peeling" around the scoop is probably mylar; Guns had mylar around the scoop corners too that looked similar.
Quoted from Deez:What horrible quality you guys are normalizing. So sad. Unbelievable. 12k.
The price sucks
That doesn't make pinball any different from what it is.. and it's never going to be pristine.. or if it is.. it won't be for long 
Quoted from flynnibus:The price sucks
Indeed. I don't think any of us are happy with the price hike. This was not the game to apply it to.
Quoted from flynnibus:That doesn't make pinball any different from what it is.. and it's never going to be pristine.. or if it is.. it won't be for long
Maybe if you replace all the pinballs with NERF balls!
Quoted from flynnibus:Wood playfields don't become something else just because they raised the price. Put away the magnifying glass.
If you want to see bad, look at a Stern playfield after a few months. If you thought you are seeing "imperfections" on the JJP pin, you would be very very disappointed in a modern Stern playfield.
Quoted from Navystan:If you want to see bad, look at a Stern playfield after a few months. If you thought you are seeing "imperfections" on the JJP pin, you would be very very disappointed in a modern Stern playfield.
Some of mine look like the surface of a golf ball!
Sup guys. 2 questions.
Everyone is talking about the left diverter ramp switch. Mine is throwing an error. Where exactly is this switch? I can’t find it.
Where are people grabbing 12v from for things like flipper fans and extra LEDs?
Quoted from johnpaulstein:Sup guys. 2 questions.
Everyone is talking about the left diverter ramp switch. Mine is throwing an error. Where exactly is this switch? I can’t find it.
Where are people grabbing 12v from for things like flipper fans and extra LEDs?
I believe it’s the big metal arm switch on the left ramp return after the diverter on the wireform (returning to the right in lane). Mine was jammed closed, it’s a tight fit. Mine needed adjustment.
Quoted from johnpaulstein:Everyone is talking about the left diverter ramp switch. Mine is throwing an error. Where exactly is this switch? I can’t find it.
Please go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed , and then hit the Start button. This puts up the playfield map and the error switch should pop up as a red box, to show you where it is.
Call jjp and get Butch and LTG : ) Back.
Roger that! What about tapping power? Where are people getting that from? I’m sure it’s similar to GNR.
Quoted from LTG:Please go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed , and then hit the Start button. This puts up the playfield map and the error switch should pop up as a red box, to show you where it is.
Call jjp and get Butch and LTG : ) Back.
Thank don’t think anyones complaining with you there home slice. I understand a new car gets scratched, just let me do the scratching. You wouldn’t drive that off the lot.
Quoted from flynnibus:The price sucks
That doesn't make pinball any different from what it is.. and it's never going to be pristine.. or if it is.. it won't be for long
Quoted from johnpaulstein:What about tapping power?
Spot lights. Coin door lights.
Call jjp tell them to get LTG : ) Back.
Got my TS4 a few days ago, and already put like 50 games on it. I don't get the hate on this game, it's ridiculously fun!
First JJP machine, and I'm really impressed with the quality. Feels like the BMW/Audi of pinball machines in comparison to stern.
Just got my TS4 delivered. I really like the game. I had played it before in a showroom, but with a dark environment the light show is spectacular. Not sure, other than the price, why people negatively critique this pin. All my visitors seem to immediately migrate to this pin and play it longer than any of my other seven pins. The ball flow is great and shots can be challenging. The fidelity to the movie is very good and although I am not into kiddie themes, both TS4 and WW are two of my best pins.
Quoted from zaphX:Believe me when I tell you: your expectations for perfection are unrealistic for pinball (hand-made complex machines.)
Handmade used to mean quality and attention to detail from the bench of a craftsman. Why would handmade be an excuse now? Pride of build ensures pride of ownership.
Quoted from Ballderdash:Handmade used to mean quality and attention to detail from the bench of a craftsman. Why would handmade be an excuse now? Pride of build ensures pride of ownership.
Humans are imperfect.
You can rage and rage but pinball is never gonna be a 100% product like an iPhone.
You can shrug and fix/tweak it, or yell at the clouds. I choose to fix it and share my fixes with others.
Quoted from zaphX:Humans are imperfect.
You can rage and rage but pinball is never gonna be a 100% product like an iPhone.
You can shrug and fix/tweak it, or yell at the clouds. I choose to fix it and share my fixes with others.
Knowing there is room for human error JJP should strive to attain the best possible customer service to account for things that slip through the cracks. Translation: Get Butch and LTG back
Quoted from Ballderdash:Knowing there is room for human error JJP should strive to attain the best possible customer service to account for things that slip through the cracks. Translation: Get Butch and LTG back
To add to this conversation, just bought NIB Wonka from a distro and once unboxed, I saw this…
The backbox has a 4-5” crack and the backside of the backbox is not properly aligned… personally, this is a manufacturing problem.
I’m in limbo right now as my wife, who signed for the package, forgot to put on the BOL the shipping box had a small hole in it. Fyi, that hole was on the opposite side of this damaged/cracked area.
At the moment it seems Frieght insurance is not liable. My wife did indicate on the slip she could not unbox to verify if any concealed damage exist.
Seems distro tried to tech out to JJP. No surprise I think JJP will not provide a replacement.
Even if my distro “fixes” it using glue and repaint.. why would that be acceptable for a NIB machine??
I’m hoping my issue is resolved appropriately. Personally, this slipped through the cracks, but it’s also hard to prove if this happened while it sat in the distro’s warehouse for the past 1 1/2 years.
203B84D6-3A8B-4092-BD6B-091C83D83538 (resized).jpeg48D3126F-162D-40E8-A964-81DEA2B7AE23 (resized).jpegQuoted from zermeno68:To add to this conversation, just bought NIB Wonka from a distro and once unboxed, I saw this…
The backbox has a 4-5” crack and the backside of the backbox is not properly aligned… personally, this is a manufacturing problem.[quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry for your misfortune. That crack seems like a result of a combination of poor pre-drilling, over tightening of a side screw, and maybe hitting a knot in the wood. Or maybe they missed the hole when they screwed the side of the head on and caused the wood to split. Doesn’t look like shipping damage.
Quoted from Ballderdash:Sorry for your misfortune. That crack seems like a result of a combination of poor pre-drilling, over tightening of a side screw, and maybe hitting a knot in the wood. Or maybe they missed the hole when they screwed the side of the head on and caused the wood to split. Doesn’t look like shipping damage.
I agree. A hole in the box likely wouldn't cause this.
Quoted from zermeno68:To add to this conversation, just bought NIB Wonka from a distro and once unboxed, I saw this…
The backbox has a 4-5” crack and the backside of the backbox is not properly aligned… personally, this is a manufacturing problem.
I’m in limbo right now as my wife, who signed for the package, forgot to put on the BOL the shipping box had a small hole in it. Fyi, that hole was on the opposite side of this damaged/cracked area.
At the moment it seems Frieght insurance is not liable. My wife did indicate on the slip she could not unbox to verify if any concealed damage exist.
Seems distro tried to tech out to JJP. No surprise I think JJP will not provide a replacement.
Even if my distro “fixes” it using glue and repaint.. why would that be acceptable for a NIB machine??
I’m hoping my issue is resolved appropriately. Personally, this slipped through the cracks, but it’s also hard to prove if this happened while it sat in the distro’s warehouse for the past 1 1/2 years.[quoted image][quoted image]
Clamps.. glue.. and some black paint afterwards. Repair and move on. Get some monetary concession from your distributor for the damaged item. No one will care once it's repaired.
Best possible outcome would be to get a new backbox shipped, but if that doesn't pan out quickly, just move on with life. This is not a big deal.
Our wonka had head damage from the shipper... cuts in the head decal. Fighting shipping claims is far more painful then any gain you get from it. At the end of the day, we just left it, and when we sold the game, we were just clear on the games condition and sold it w/o a problem.
Quoted from zermeno68:To add to this conversation, just bought NIB Wonka from a distro and once unboxed, I saw this…
The backbox has a 4-5” crack and the backside of the backbox is not properly aligned… personally, this is a manufacturing problem.
I’m in limbo right now as my wife, who signed for the package, forgot to put on the BOL the shipping box had a small hole in it. Fyi, that hole was on the opposite side of this damaged/cracked area.
At the moment it seems Frieght insurance is not liable. My wife did indicate on the slip she could not unbox to verify if any concealed damage exist.
Seems distro tried to tech out to JJP. No surprise I think JJP will not provide a replacement.
Even if my distro “fixes” it using glue and repaint.. why would that be acceptable for a NIB machine??
I’m hoping my issue is resolved appropriately. Personally, this slipped through the cracks, but it’s also hard to prove if this happened while it sat in the distro’s warehouse for the past 1 1/2 years.[quoted image][quoted image]
Sucks that happened. If it left the factory like that there's no excuse. I suppose a screw could have been overtightened and then the damage didn't occur until during shipping.
I recommend getting a hobby syringe and some needles (kit below, may need smaller needles or need to drill small pilot holes into the crack). Fill the syringe with wood glue, inject into cabinet, clamp, let dry, fill the crack if needed with some wood filler / sand, add a bit of paint, done. Should look as good as new.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBSWJ5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Clamp (use wider piece of wood on top and bottom to brace): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FA0BMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Sucks that happened. I recommend getting a hobby syringe and some needles (kit below, may need smaller needles or need to drill small pilot holes into the crack). Fill the syringe with wood glue, inject into cabinet, clamp, let dry, fill the crack if needed with some wood filler / sand, add a bit of paint, done. Should look as good as new.
amazon.com link »
Quoted from flynnibus:Clamps.. glue.. and some black paint afterwards. Repair and move on. Get some monetary concession from your distributor for the damaged item. No one will care once it's repaired.
Best possible outcome would be to get a new backbox shipped, but if that doesn't pan out quickly, just move on with life. This is not a big deal.
Our wonka had head damage from the shipper... cuts in the head decal. Fighting shipping claims is far more painful then any gain you get from it. At the end of the day, we just left it, and when we sold the game, we were just clear on the games condition and sold it w/o a problem.
Thanks you two for suggestions. Yeah, I’m a little pissed due to this crack, but it could be worse.
Monetary compensation seems like a fair asking given the alternative would be too expensive (shipping was $500).
Also, thanks for suggestion how to fix this crack.. like the syringe idea. I’ll look it over.
Lastly, that was my concern was resell. But your right that if I be up front it should sell.. besides, it will be fixed.
I’m really enjoying this pin thus far. Very approachable per my wife and kids.
The road trip lock post does not release the balls on the first try. The post moves down then back up too quickly it seems which doesn’t allow enough time for the balls to release at the start of multiball. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how to fix? I have a note into JJP.
Thx.
8E9C75C6-DC25-4994-B8FA-5E8971F8773B (resized).jpegEE3E0080-DFDB-4D45-B6A2-4A6DAD7C3842 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinDeadHead:I’m really enjoying this pin thus far. Very approachable per my wife and kids.
The road trip lock post does not release the balls on the first try. The post moves down then back up too quickly it seems which doesn’t allow enough time for the balls to release at the start of multiball. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how to fix? I have a note into JJP.
Thx.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Check the front-back leveling.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:I’m really enjoying this pin thus far. Very approachable per my wife and kids.
The road trip lock post does not release the balls on the first try. The post moves down then back up too quickly it seems which doesn’t allow enough time for the balls to release at the start of multiball. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how to fix? I have a note into JJP.
Thx.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Check the slope of your game using a calibrated tool or analog inclinometer.
Quoted from Jherre6:Any suggestions for adjusting the kickback? a little less than half the balls that go down the left side fly right past the kickback. If it was only a little quicker.
You can adjust the kickback delay in settings -> coil settings -> kickback. Here’s what worked for me.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Jherre6:Any suggestions for adjusting the kickback? a little less than half the balls that go down the left side fly right past the kickback. If it was only a little quicker.
You can adjust the kickback and/or check to see if your incline is at 6.5. That kickback was calibrated for a 6.5 incline, anything steeper will make that kickback be a little too late.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:I’m really enjoying this pin thus far. Very approachable per my wife and kids.
The road trip lock post does not release the balls on the first try. The post moves down then back up too quickly it seems which doesn’t allow enough time for the balls to release at the start of multiball. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas how to fix? I have a note into JJP.
Thx.
[quoted image][quoted image]
This issue was resolved when I leveled the pin correctly. Thanks gents!
Ok I have a new issue for this group. The post which holds the ball before the funnel cake building prior to the start of each mode won’t release the ball so I need to wait until the pin conducts a ball search before it releases. JJP had me lower the coil hold strength intensity in coil settings and that didn’t work.
Sometimes the post moves down a hair but not nearly enough to release it. There are sensors before the post so I wonder if it has anything to do with that.
The pin is angled correctly where the top of the bubble in the level touches the second line. Thank you.
033E31E0-22BE-4F33-967E-7603AF974E25 (resized).jpeg3A0F6B78-6568-4B6E-BD7E-431E1EB7705F (resized).jpeg51C87454-9B34-42EF-BF6B-9E713FA68543 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinDeadHead:Ok I have a new issue for this group. The post which holds the ball before the funnel cake building prior to the start of each mode won’t release the ball so I need to wait until the pin conducts a ball search before it releases. JJP had me lower the coil hold strength intensity in coil settings and that didn’t work.
Sometimes the post moves down a hair but not nearly enough to release it. There are sensors before the post so I wonder if it has anything to do with that.
The pin is angled correctly where the top of the bubble in the level touches the second line. Thank you.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Pull up the PF and physically move the post up and down, is it binding at all? it may be rubbing against something and might need some adjustment. That is where i would look first before playing with any of the coil settings.
Edit: from your pic, is it touching the left side of the ramp plastic? ideally you don't want it touching/rubbing against anything.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Ok I have a new issue for this group. The post which holds the ball before the funnel cake building prior to the start of each mode won’t release the ball so I need to wait until the pin conducts a ball search before it releases. JJP had me lower the coil hold strength intensity in coil settings and that didn’t work.
Sometimes the post moves down a hair but not nearly enough to release it. There are sensors before the post so I wonder if it has anything to do with that.
The pin is angled correctly where the top of the bubble in the level touches the second line. Thank you.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
1) Don't use the bubble to set your slope - use a calibrated tool or analog inclinometer
2) That post can bind with the ramp. Just loosen the bolts holding the up-post assembly bracket to the underside of the playfield, align so the post goes up and down without any resistance, retighten screws.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Pull up the PF and physically move the post up and down, is it binding at all? it may be rubbing against something and might need some adjustment. That is where i would look first before playing with any of the coil settings.
Edit: from your pic, is it touching the left side of the ramp plastic? ideally you don't want it touching/rubbing against anything.
That did the trick! The post was rubbing the side of the wooden playfield hole. I loosened the coil L bracket screws, repositioned and centered the post through the hole and the coil/post now work as intended. Thank you
Quoted from flynnibus:1) Don't use the bubble to set your slope - use a calibrated tool or analog inclinometer
2) That post can bind with the ramp. Just loosen the bolts holding the up-post assembly bracket to the underside of the playfield, align so the post goes up and down without any resistance, retighten screws.
Thank you!
Quoted from K9Marshal:Nevermind I figured it out lol
I have the same question but haven’t figured it out. Enlighten me please!
Quoted from Gear_Grinder:I have the same question but haven’t figured it out. Enlighten me please!
Make sure you scroll to the bottom of the terms and conditions page in the menus and do the step to accept them. From the front of the manual...
Quoted from flynnibus:Make sure you scroll to the bottom of the terms and conditions page in the menus and do the step to accept them. From the front of the manual...
[quoted image]
Thanks! Plus I didn’t realize that QR codes were a thing for Network permissions now! lol I still had to manually update from v1.05 to v1.07 via usb due to multiple failed updates attempts through Wi-Fi.
I managed to incorporate slink toy into a better designed wireform. I just wanted to post these pictures and video link over here for the last time as it really came together well this morning. The front leg posts will be brown, but this is the version I am going with. Any interest please pm me.
Thanks, Jay
And I heard Jack on podcast say he had license for all the movies! Wtf!! I would have loved to make a Zurg with pinballs coming out of his shooting arm!
E4F27906-677C-4DE6-9B06-1C0E36DB7284 (resized).jpeg4AB12B15-74EE-4376-9AD5-F508C30FBDD6 (resized).jpeg266B073E-FA44-4175-8A59-6DDAA8EF2835 (resized).jpegA15536B9-3E08-4EB4-A54D-3CBC6851839E (resized).jpegB6327BFC-8EAE-47CD-A4AA-1DCA824A7E50 (resized).jpegD9B616C7-95BA-488B-A14B-FE415C04A54E (resized).jpegI'm pretty new to troubleshooting pins so I'm hoping someone here can help. When my Jump Ramp is in the Up Position (and also when my left ramp diverter is active) there is a loud buzzing noise that can be heard until they switch off. Video shows the buzzing when I'm testing the Jump Ramp in diagnostics.
Anyone know what could be causing this?
Quoted from pluto:I'm pretty new to troubleshooting pins so I'm hoping someone here can help. When my Jump Ramp is in the Up Position (and also when my left ramp diverter is active) there is a loud buzzing noise that can be heard until they switch off. Video shows the buzzing when I'm testing the Jump Ramp in diagnostics.
Anyone know what could be causing this?
Not that unusual for an energized and held coil to buzz like that.
Quoted from zaphX:Not that unusual for an energized and held coil to buzz like that.
If it's normal then you can definitely ignore me. It just seems SO loud that I assumed there had to be a problem.
Quoted from pluto:I'm pretty new to troubleshooting pins so I'm hoping someone here can help. When my Jump Ramp is in the Up Position (and also when my left ramp diverter is active) there is a loud buzzing noise that can be heard until they switch off. Video shows the buzzing when I'm testing the Jump Ramp in diagnostics.
Anyone know what could be causing this?
Perhaps send JJP Tech Support the video and ask. I can’t tell when with the absence of all the other sounds during gameplay.
Quoted from pluto:I'm pretty new to troubleshooting pins so I'm hoping someone here can help. When my Jump Ramp is in the Up Position (and also when my left ramp diverter is active) there is a loud buzzing noise that can be heard until they switch off. Video shows the buzzing when I'm testing the Jump Ramp in diagnostics.
Anyone know what could be causing this?
Seems a little loud but not too bad. Head to settings / coils. Are your jump ramp settings default? Attaching a pic from mine
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Frisco, TX