(Topic ID: 195811)

W?D Keeps blowing 12v opto fuse F116. Any Suggestions?

By Ericpinballfan

6 years ago


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#29 2 years ago

Working through a recently acquired W?D and arrived here as after getting the pin playing 100% noticed that it is blowing F116 after about 3-4 hours of play time.

Pin is LCD colorDMD and all led lighting with no mods. Have not put my DMM in place of F116 but I’m pretty sure that it’s going to show that circuit operating at or near the 3amp limit when 12v is being fully tapped (all reels spinning and elevator target moving).

Wouldn’t the easiest solution be to just put the reels on their own 12v power supply?

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from pins4u:

Or get the mods off the machine power supply would make a lot more sense...get rid of the colour DMD for a start.

what mods? As for getting rid of the color dmd, yeah no…

#32 2 years ago

Pulled F116 and DMM probes to the fuse terminals

Attract mode is pulling 2,54 A, gameplay with the reels stationary is also 2.54 A. When the reels are stationary and the elevator 3 bank raises and lowers peak draw during gameplay is 2.77A

In attract mode and during game play the reels are held stationary by the motors

Each reel pulls about .5 amps stationary and that drops to about .2 amps when spinning. When all 3 reels are spinning total game amp draw drops below 2 A.

Does anyone else have an amp draw reading of a stationary reel?

Does the motor really need more than 2x the amp draw to hold a reel stationary than it does to spin a reel?

The pin never goes over 2.8 A during gameplay and the constant 2.54A during attract mode is enough to eventually heat up and burn a 3A fuse in F116

Amp draw at F116 as loads are added
0.015 A (j116, 117, 118 disconnected)
0.292 A (color dmd connected)
0.322 A (j117 grey grey/yellow connected)
0.431 A (j116 black black/yellow connected with opto board J1 disconnected)
1.100 A (optos j1 connected)
1.600 A (reel 1 connected)
2.100 A (reel 2 connected)
2.540 A (reel 3 connected)

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from pins4u:

If you want to save yourself some grief get rid of ALL mods and this includes colour DMD's etc.
You are then starting from a base point - how it left the factory - and can track down the ACTUAL problem.
Leaving 'extras' connected (such as the colour DMD) you are just making it harder to fault find.
Once the actual problems are corrected you can then (cautiously) re-connect mods one at a time and that, again, includes a colour DMD (which is a mod no matter if you think it is or not).
Otherwise, I expect to see you continue to post "help me, help me".
When asking for advice to fix a problem it's possibly wise to listen to the advice being offered. As a pinball tech of 50 years the very first thing I do when looking for an obscure problem is GET RID OF EVERYTHING added. Then I start looking for the ACTUAL problem.
This approach has saved me countless hours. You can, of course, approach the problem any way you wish.

The reels are either in spec or out of spec. There are no other problems to solve.

I think, at this point, I would prefer to work towards a solution without your sermons posted under the guise of “help”.

#36 2 years ago

Scared stiff uses the same stepper motor (14-8024) for the backglass spider and current draw is within .1 A of what I'm seeing with W?D's stepper motor in the rotating and idle positions and would be running at nearly identical amps on the 12v circuit overall as the W?D if it was running 3 of them.

So, a dedicated power supply to unload the power driver board is in order.

1 week later
#39 2 years ago
Quoted from flippersticks:

Here were my readings at F116:
1.8A with drop target and all three reel motors disconnected (I also have a color dmd on this circuit)
2.5A with the drop target
3.1A adding the left reel
3.4A adding the center reel
4.0A adding the right reel
Anyway, a 4A held for a few days on location and was still working fine. But, after seeing these readings, I put in the 5A. I think I will investigate why 1.8 is on the circuit with so much taken off, but even though mine might be running on the high side, with the Pump House data it does seem to point toward needing more than 3A fuse.

Any idea why you are pulling 1.5 more amps on that circuit than I am? Also, your center real is pulling half the amps of the other two reals stationary. Can you freely rotate your center reel when the machine is powered on? (stepper motor not holding the idle position)

4 months later
#42 1 year ago

LOL, F116 blew in my W?D yesterday so I put in the spec'd 3A and it blew a few hours later.

I vaguely remembered going through this once before....

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