Quoted from Sonic:I love the Kahr board...I have one... But it's not a fix.... It's a diagnostic tool (everyone debates this)..... It won't fix what is fixable...FYI....
People will figure it out when their magic bullet no longer works.
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Quoted from Sonic:I love the Kahr board...I have one... But it's not a fix.... It's a diagnostic tool (everyone debates this)..... It won't fix what is fixable...FYI....
People will figure it out when their magic bullet no longer works.
Quoted from wdennie:going on 4 years, still no resets with Khar board
TNG or Dr. Who ?
Enjoy it while it lasts. Sooner or later, it'll happen, and if you sell your game with that board installed and it starts resetting on them, now it's their problem.
I say just fix it right the first time and be done with it.
Quoted from rkahr:But the "won't fix what is fixable" statement is incorrect - in fact it does fix what is otherwise not addressed in the reset literature...
IF....if if if if if, the 12V circuit is solid too.
See most people believe "well, the 5V circuit is given excess voltage from the 12V circuit, so my game is now 100% bulletproof with this daughter board installed....", and that is not true. People need to understand if that 12V circuit is weak, it WILL STILL RESET even with a daughterboard in it. Ask me how I know.
So yes, the daughterboard is a solid "crutch" to use if the 12V circuit is stout and sound.
Rob, I want to be very clear: I absolutely respect your contribution to the community. Heck, I bought 3 or 4 of your boards (2 to use, 2 for backups) at one point until my TAF went all sorts of crazy with the daughterboard installed, and that was due (in part) to the 12V circuit being weak. That was the moment I realized "All right, from here on out, we fix the root of the problem."
I know I constantly preach the "it's not a fix" angle, and it is not to attack you or your work (I'm sure you know that, for the sake of transparency, I am stating it). I preach it so people understand they did not throw in a magic bullet and everything will be all better now forever and ever.
People that tell me "Well, I've had it in my game for X years and everything is hunky dory..." well, that's great - how often do you play - 4 times a year? 4 times a month? A week? A day? How long do you play? 1 game? 3 games? 7 games? 2-3 hours? 5 hours?
A statement like that is not quantitative; it is subjective and ambiguous at best. You need to fix the problem - especially if you are ever going to sell the game. If I buy a game and I see that, I automatically ask for a discount because know I have to solve someone else's problem - and that's a fact - I'm buying someone else's problem.
OP, let us know how it goes once you've re-pinned the potential problem connectors!
Quoted from Sonic:Not to beat a dead horse, but for <$10 in parts and a little of my time, my resets were fixed.....which is a less expensive than spending $35 for each pin that has a reset...that's the bottom line....
Exactly. More and more, technical know how in this hobby is plummeting like a rock.
It's easy to plug a board in, avoid the problem and hope it never comes back. It takes some serious effort to get the tools, get the spare parts, pull the board, practice using the tools, locating the problem component, swapping the bad for the good, and putting everything back together. Or........determining that the old IDC connectors and pins are faulty and swapping all new pins and moles connectors.
Again, I ever see that board in a game and it's not disclosed to me prior, I'm so requesting a discount to make up for buying and fixing someone else's problems.
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