World Cup Soccer
Bally, 1994Quoted from RonaldRayGun:You learned that Q66 works (since it fired the coil when the base went low) and everything downstream from there works (coil and connection from Q66 to the coil).
So what's left to check then?
If Q66 is good, the path to the coil is good, etc. then what is left that keeps the trough coil from not firing a ball into the lane?
Perplexing,...
Quoted from CUJO:So what's left to check then?
If Q66 is good, the path to the coil is good, etc. then what is left that keeps the trough coil from not firing a ball into the lane?
Perplexing,...
So now you move upstream in the circuit. Q65, Q60 and U5. Let me get back to you when I have some free time.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:What you learned is that the path to ground at the transistor is good. This included the solder lug of the coil, through the wire back to the power/driver board connector, the female IDC connector, the male pin, the solder joint at the male pin, and the PCB traces to the transistor. You've learned nothing about the condition of the transistor.
You can diode test the transistor.
For a TIP-102...
Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the red lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
Probe the center leg with the red lead
A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.
For a TIP-36c...
Place the red lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the black lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
Probe the center leg with the black lead
A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.
Testing a transistor with this method can prove that it has failed. It can not prove that it is good. Transistors sometimes test good with a DMM but then fail under real load.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Thanks...will try the test in the AM Chris.
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:So now you move upstream in the circuit. Q65, Q60 and U5. Let me get back to you when I have some free time.
Appreciate that!
Thanks!
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Do you have any insert lamps out on the playfield? Do you have a logic probe?
Actually I ran a ALL LAMPS TEST this AM and one whole ROW is out indicated on the LAMP MATRIX chart.
That would be ROW 8:
Washington "R", Strength (Ball), Skill (Ball), Ultra Spinner (2), Right Flipper Lane, Upper Left Lane, Left Ramp Buy Tickets & Skill Shot Center.
Quoted from CUJO:Actually I ran a ALL LAMPS TEST this AM and one whole ROW is out indicated on the LAMP MATRIX chart.
That would be ROW 8:
Washington "R", Strength (Ball), Skill (Ball), Ultra Spinner (2), Right Flipper Lane, Upper Left Lane, Left Ramp Buy Tickets & Skill Shot Center.
Great. Just as I suspected. So then the issue is upstream from the Q66. I have a driver board with the same issue that I had not yet dug into yet. First time for me running into one of the failures in 9 years of owning games and repairing games for others.
zaza have any thoughts?
2 coil failures and Row 8 lamp matrix is out.
Quoted from CUJO:Just ran a SOLENOID TEST. There are (2) that aren't working.
Right Eject Hole and Trough.
Quoted from CUJO:Actually I ran a ALL LAMPS TEST this AM and one whole ROW is out indicated on the LAMP MATRIX chart.
That would be ROW 8:
Washington "R", Strength (Ball), Skill (Ball), Ultra Spinner (2), Right Flipper Lane, Upper Left Lane, Left Ramp Buy Tickets & Skill Shot Center.
Hmmm. This just got interesting.
Has there been any prior work to U1 through U5.
Most commonly, someone tried to repair an issue, removed one of those ICs, and fractured a trace or through hole, causing downstream ramifications.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Hmmm. This just got interesting.
Has there been any prior work to U1 through U5.
Most commonly, someone tried to repair an issue, removed one of those ICs, and fractured a trace or through hole, causing downstream ramifications.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Possibly. But it wasn't me if there was.
Here's a pic of the top half of the CPU board. Looks like U1 & U3 are socketed.
U2 & U5 are not. U4 is the CPU and isn't that always socketed?
The same type fault i have is just on different row of lamos and a different pair of coils. Mine is a power driver board issue for sure.
Do you have another driver board to swap in for test?
Sorry...I should have said on the power/driver board.
The data bus signals travel trough the short ribbon from the MPU to the power/driver board, then across the board to those 5 74LS374s for various functions.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from CUJO:Actually I ran a ALL LAMPS TEST this AM and one whole ROW is out indicated on the LAMP MATRIX chart.
That would be ROW 8:
Washington "R", Strength (Ball), Skill (Ball), Ultra Spinner (2), Right Flipper Lane, Upper Left Lane, Left Ramp Buy Tickets & Skill Shot Center.
Ok so you said row 8 and and listed all the lamps in row 6 so I am going to go with Row 6.
Row 6, solenoid 14 (Right Eject Hole), and Solenoid 6 (Trough) are all controlled by data bit 5 and these are the only things on the power driver board that are controlled by this bit so logic would tell us that your problem is a result of an absence of this bit. Most likely cause would be bad ribbon cable between the CPU J211 and power driver board header J113. This could also be a problem with the solder connection to the header pin on either board MPU J211 pin 19 or power driver board J113 pin 19, or a cracked trace on either board.
If you haven't already tried flipping the ribbon cable around, go ahead and try that first to see if the problem remains, changes, or goes away. If the cable is bad, I would expect to see a failure or row 8 lamps, solenoid 8 (Ramp Diverter), and Solenoid 16 (Diverter Hold) as the problem would migrate to data bit 7.
On the power driver board, you should be able to buzz the connection for data bit 5, it goes from J113-19 to the following points:
U11-2
U9-4
U2-14
U3-14
U4-14
U5-14
Good luck!
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Ok so you said row 8 and and listed all the lamps in row 6 so I am going to go with Row 6.
Row 6, solenoid 14 (Right Eject Hole), and Solenoid 6 (Trough) are all controlled by data bit 5 and these are the only things on the power driver board that are controlled by this bit so logic would tell us that your problem is a result of an absence of this bit. Most likely cause would be bad ribbon cable between the CPU J211 and power driver board header J113. This could also be a problem with the solder connection to the header pin on either board MPU J211 pin 19 or power driver board J113 pin 19, or a cracked trace on either board.
If you haven't already tried flipping the ribbon cable around, go ahead and try that first to see if the problem remains, changes, or goes away. If the cable is bad, I would expect to see a failure or row 8 lamps, solenoid 8 (Ramp Diverter), and Solenoid 16 (Diverter Hold) as the problem would migrate to data bit 7.
On the power driver board, you should be able to buzz the connection for data bit 5, it goes from J113-19 to the following points:
U11-2
U9-4
U2-14
U3-14
U4-14
U5-14
Good luck!
Yes Pin_Guy, I meant Row 6, not Row 8..
Going to try your suggestions & let you know soon!
Thanks!
Update:
Pin_Guy,
Flipped the ribbon cable around between CPU J211 and Driver J113.
I noticed it was already flipped (red line on ribbon was lined up with Pin 34 or both board headers).
Inspected ribbon and header pins and reseated cable the way it was intended.
Power on pin. Go into LAMP TEST. All lamps working except "R" so maybe a bulb out.
Start game.
VOILA!
Ball goes up into shooter lane! Test right eject hole. Ejects now so all is good! Wow. It always seems to come back as a connector/
continuity issues with a lot of problems with pins I have been finding out.
Thanks to ALL who helped me thru this. I'll post again when I check out the "R" lamp to see if it's actually burned out or something else.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Sorry...I should have said on the power/driver board.
The data bus signals travel trough the short ribbon from the MPU to the power/driver board, then across the board to those 5 74LS374s for various functions.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
FYI Chris, the U1-U5 on Driver board look very clean and none have ever been socketed.
Thanks for your help.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:The same type fault i have is just on different row of lamos and a different pair of coils. Mine is a power driver board issue for sure.
Do you have another driver board to swap in for test?
PinballManiac40,
Maybe you are having the same issue I was having that Pin_Guy pointed out.
Thanks for your assistance too!
Thanks for the update, I'm glad you got it working. could have been some corrosion on the header pin, or there could be a cracked joint that's now making contact; make a note of it and if the problem returns you may want to reflow solder to header pin 19.
Quoted from CUJO:PinballManiac40,
Maybe you are having the same issue I was having that Pin_Guy pointed out.
Thanks for your assistance too!
No. i know my driver board is bad. Tested in 2 different games.
I inspected the headers on both ..and looks good but as we know that means nothing in pinball..
Here's a pic.
So WCS94 decided to reward me with this DMD issue now.Vertical Lines...hmmmm...It's so bad to me!!!
I already reseated power and cables to DMD on both ends.
It came up on it's mode in attract mode while I was doing something else.
I turned it off. I'll see if it starts up that way cold or if it takes a while after power up.
Reaeat the big ribbon cable from the top left MPU connector to fliptronix to sound board to DMD controller board at all 4 connections. Another reason to buy a new set of ribbon cables.
Quoted from CUJO:FYI Chris, the U1-U5 on Driver board look very clean and none have ever been socketed.
Thanks for your help.
My pleasure. Glad it turned out to be something as simple as a ribbon. The vertical lines in the display is most likely a ribbon too, as stated above. As Howard Cosell might have said, "da Ribbon, always da Ribbon".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Reaeat the big ribbon cable from the top left MPU connector to fliptronix to sound board to DMD controller board at all 4 connections. Another reason to buy a new set of ribbon cables.
Thanks!
As long as I've had pinballs, I'm still learning the ins and outs, and thanks to people like you that are willing to help,
it makes it so much more rewarding.
I re-seated that whole line of ribbons like you suggested and it cleared up the vertical lines issue...
I had just reseated the little ribbon between the display driver board and DMD but obviously the issue was further "upstream".
Quoted from PinballManiac40:i know my driver board is bad. Tested in 2 different games.
Ok. Upon inspection, I found C2 (100uf 25v) electrolytic capacitor had leaked and damaged some areas of my driver C2 leakage (resized).jpgboard. Likely it damaged a trace at U1 that is causing my issues with a row of lamps not working and 2 pop bumpers not firing.
So, I suggest changing C2 on your driver board. This is not really the first time I ran across C2 leaking and the leakage is very corrosive, just like battery corrosion.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Ok. Upon inspection, I found C2 (100uf 25v) electrolytic capacitor had leaked and damaged some areas of my driver board. Likely it damaged a trace at U1 that is causing my issues with a row of lamps not working and 2 pop bumpers not firing.
So, I suggest changing C2 on your driver board. This is not really the first time I ran across C2 leaking and the leakage is very corrosive, just like battery corrosion.
Thanks for the heads up. I think I am ok as far as my WCS driver board goes as it was re-done by CoinOp Cauldron a few years back.
Here is a list of what he addressed on it, which included a new C2 from what I see.
Thanks!
WPC-3 Power Driver board (Ser# XXXXXXXX, previous repairs): Removed wires, excess flux and previous repairs from board. 33 Broken plate through holes and damaged traces repaired. TIP102 (Q34) and 2n5401 (Q33) transistors. 1N4004 (D12) diode. C2 (100uf/50v/105c), C4 (100uf/16v), C5, C6, C7, C11, C31 (5x 15000uf/25v/105c) and C8 (100uf/100v/105c) capacitors. BR1 and BR2 (2x GBPC3508) bridge rectifiers. J101, J114, J115, J120 and J121 high temperature headers. 10k 1/2 watt resistor (R260). +5 volt boost modification (10 ohms). Fuses checked; -- 3x 5 amp slow blow (F111, F107, F108) due to incorrect values. Reflow. Board cleaned-up. Two-tier full functional testing.
Quoted from CUJO:33 Broken plate through holes and damaged traces repaired
Wow. I don't know how 33 through holes or traces could be damaged. I don't doubt it but you don't see that every day.
This one would need at lease 25 jumpers. It was sent to me for possible repair. I'm going to have to decline it. The time necessary to fix this one doesn't make economic sense.
This pic also suggests strongly that installing NVRAM requires experience. 
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:This pic also suggests strongly that installing NVRAM requires experience.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Not to hijack the thread, but is NVRAM installation something that you do, or is it cost prohibitive to ship, fix and ship back a board just for NVRAM installation?
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Not to hijack the thread, but is NVRAM installation something that you do, or is it cost prohibitive to ship, fix and ship back a board just for NVRAM installation?
I perform the service for folks, mostly when they ship another board for repair. The MPU can ride along economically. I charge $30 to install and test the NVRAM.
Rob Anthony will do them for you if you can meet up with him at a show he's attending.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wcs94-last-time-played-finenow-cpu-board-dead/page/2 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Singapore
Chesterfield, MO