(Topic ID: 107263)

WCS94 Driver Board, suggestions.....

By ff6735

4 years ago

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  • 5 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by ff6735
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#1 4 years ago

Have a WCS94 with a glitch or two.
After taking the game home, noticed a GI problem. GI is broken into 3 segments, Top segment has failed. Performed lamp test, replaced a couple bulbs, chased wires under play field all the way to back box looking for a wire issue. Nothing was found till I got I got to the board.
Finally made it to J120 and found 2 burnt pins (10/11). As you can see below, the female connector is actually a 12 pin and not an 11 pin such as the board.
Second issue I found is the top have of the translite lighting is in op.

With what I have above, I'm leaning towards this must be a board issue. Problem is, I don't really know where to start at this point now. Should replace the pins or should I just replace the entire board? I'm concerned about the traces and salvageability.

Lastly I believe they are the Bridge rectifiers and power pack in the photos below. Clearly someone at some point did some work and they look a little busted. Though?
Any suggestions or help is welcomed.

IMG_7713.JPG IMG_7714.JPG IMG_7718.JPG IMG_7719.JPG IMG_7717.JPG IMG_7716.JPG IMG_7715.JPG
#2 4 years ago

The connector and pins have been replaced and whoever has done so has cut it down to 12 pins instead of 11 and then just not been bothered to correct their mistake. They have also not crimped the pins properly to the insulation which probably means they haven't crimped them to the wire properly either. No good for a GI circuit. I would get a high current connector and pins from GPE and do it properly as well as replacing the male connector. The traces look fine but just make sure everything buzzes out with your DMM

The work on the bridge rectifiers looks a little untidy but there doesn't seem to be anything visually wrong. Perhaps check for continuity from legs to the traces on the board and also check that the bridges themselves are good.


#3 4 years ago

If you don't feel comfortable working on the driver board, I would suggest shipping the board to coin-op cauldron. I had a similar issue on another WCS94. I would strongly suggest that use the trifuricon connectors instead of the IDC connectors that were originally used on this game.

This game especially is more susceptible to burned connectors, fortunately I was able to find a wiring harness kit for WPC games that replaces the old cables and IDC connectors with the better made trifuricon connectors. It's not exactly easy to replace the pins, and takes considerable time if you have never done it before.

#4 4 years ago

It's perfectly salvageable and is no different than many of the other used WPC driver boards out there.

The previous tech working on the board didn't clean up after themselves. That can be cleaned up with a toothbrush and some 91% isopropryl alcohol that you can buy at any drugstore or department store.

If it's above the level of what you're weilling to tackle on your own, I've done mail-in board repair for numerous individuals on pinside, and can make it work perfectly for you. Send me a PM for more information, turnaround is a week or less and it's quite affordable when compared to what a replacement board will cost. My process doesn't just fix what you report is wrong, it fully checks out the entire board.

If you're the DIY type, there are plenty of techs on pinside, myself included, who can walk you through the repairs - but if you can't solder, or have never soldered, go find an old junk alarm clock to practice soldering on, before you jump headfirst into an expensive pinball board. It looks easy, but it takes practice and finesse.

#5 4 years ago

Thanks for the all the guidance so far. I have decided to send the board out to a fellow pinsider.

However when rebuilding the wired connections, I know I need a set of crimpers, Trifuricon connectors and crimp contacts. I just don't know who I should get them from and the exact type to prevent future damage. Also I see there is a "key" do I need one of those also? If you think there are any other tools or parts I should order for this job, I could certainly use the advice. Thanks

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