(Topic ID: 294157)

Wcs wizard mode Problems

By rx2006je

67 days ago


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  • 67 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 50 days ago by rx2006je
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#8 67 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

If you are experiencing ball count problems it can likely be only two things: The trough optos/switches, or the shooter lane switch. Those are the only things that keep track of balls in the game.

No...physical lock switches also keep track of balls.

#10 67 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

How many does this game have?
Pretty sure it’s zero! One ball gets diverted by the magnet. The other is in play the other sits in The trough.

2 actually, on the mini upper pf.

#13 67 days ago

Have you done a switch test yet?

#16 67 days ago
Quoted from rx2006je:

With a ball sitting in the lane it closes. What is weird is that it only happens in wizard mode. If you get the striker multiball then it doesn’t do it. Nor does it try and launch balls continuously when you start a game or enter final draw.

Yes I did a switch test I will do one and upload a picture to show you what I am looking at in the switch test if that will help

Post it.

If possible, post a pic of the shooter lane switch too, making sure you captured how it is wired up, and you can see where the banded side of the diode is.

#18 67 days ago

Looking between the 2nd and 3rd pic of your switch matrix, you have two switches closed by the shooter lane.

Start looking for a shorted or bad diode.

#20 67 days ago

Nevermind, i see why the switch in the trough changed.

Sorry to send you on the wrong path.

You cpuld always try a factory reset and see if that clears it.

#23 66 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

In your pics, trough switches 1-3 show closed, which means no balls for optical switches. Trough switch 4 (4th switch down on 4th column) shows open, meaning a ball is blocking that opto pair. Gravity shouldn't allow that to happen.
You either have bad trough optos or a worn trough causing balls to not roll all the way down to trough switch 1.

Thats what i thought....but the optos for the trough are on the 3rd column, not the fourth

20210529_075449 (resized).jpg

The open opto switch is for the goalie.

#30 65 days ago

You have a colordmd correct?

You may have a bad cap for the 12v, especially if you have a color dmd (and if you have a kahr board).

Have you tested your 12v? What did it measure?

#35 64 days ago

This vid show should help.

#40 63 days ago
Quoted from rx2006je:

Do you think it could be a rom issue? Is this an aftermarket rom?
[quoted image]

Highly unlikely.

#42 60 days ago
Quoted from rx2006je:

New volt meter and tested all parts and everything checked out fine.

What did your 12v measure at?

#47 57 days ago
Quoted from rx2006je:

Tried a factory reset and a rom change. Still no change in the game. Still putting out multiple balls in the shooter lane during the final with Germany. Not sure where to go from here. Any thing else to try?

You may want to try setting up the issue in switch test and see if something is throwing a switch error, causing a problem with the optos.

If you have another game (or access to one) that uses the same opto board under the pf, you can swap that out and see what happens.

#49 56 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Cut the pink crimp on connector off of the shooter lane switch and solder the green wires onto the middle terminal.
[quoted image]

That switch is wired correctly

#64 53 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Since you still have the original opto board, and there probably isn’t anything wrong with it, it’s worth swapping it back in. At least that way you can narrow it down to the board or connector (hopefully).

Which is what I recommend trying 3 days ago

#66 53 days ago
Quoted from rx2006je:

I don’t have the original 10 opto board I have the original trough opto boards. I did swap them back in and it started trying to load balls immediately when starting the game instead of only in the wizard mode.

My mistake.

If you can solder reflow all the Solder on j3 to start. There is a ton of flux left on the backside of that board.

If reflowing all the solder doesn't fix the issue, then plan or rebuilding j3 as well.

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