The only issue I have run into on the gloss finish is during installation. It will look great but be careful of microscratches on the dark colors.
The only issue I have run into on the gloss finish is during installation. It will look great but be careful of microscratches on the dark colors.
Quoted from Skypilot:The only issue I have run into on the gloss finish is during installation. It will look great but be careful of microscratches on the dark colors.
Yup I've got a squeegee with a felt end on it. And I wrap that with a microfiber towel.
Quoted from Skypilot:The only issue I have run into on the gloss finish is during installation. It will look great but be careful of microscratches on the dark colors.
With a rubber brayer you can push down quite hard with no damage whatsoever.
Quoted from flashinstinct:Tomorrow sand down and apply cabinet decals.
The best part of a restoration!!!! Looking great
Sides go on without a flaw. I cut the corners to avoid rinkling. I get to the front and spot two screw holes that i missed. Crap, take out the Bondo and let it dry. I'm sanding this puppy tonight and putting the front on in a few hours.
What's left.
- Predrill the holes and install the metal leg protectors
- Clean and repaint the Power supply
- Put the new braid in the cabinet and back box
- clean and install speaker
- clean the electrical box / on / off switch
- Fix a few headers on some of the boards
- clean a few metal parts including the lockdown bar
- Finish wiring the playfield (3 coils left)
- clean and reinstall coin door
- Install ramps and mini playfield
- print the speaker panel on PETG 1/32"
- and probably a million other things I am forgetting
- figure I'll be done by next xmas at the rate I am going LOL ...so depressing LOL
Knowing me I'll be so tired of working on this thing that I will sell it as soon as I am done.
Note for the folks using a HVLP paint gun to spray their cabs. Make sure you mix the paint really well. If you use oil based paint you should dilute 30%-40% with mineral spirits or varsol. I just eye it to get the right consistency. Don't try and shoot the oil based paint unmixed with the gun. You will cause yourself alot of grief in the long run. Needle should be 1.8 in the gun. Smaller ones like 1.4 weren't quite qorking the way I wanted them to.
Quoted from flashinstinct:Note for the folks using a HVLP paint gun to spray their cabs. Make sure you mix the paint really well. If you use oil based paint you should dilute 30%-40% with mineral spirits or varsol. I just eye it to get the right consistency. Don't try and shoot the oil based paint unmixed with the gun. You will cause yourself alot of grief in the long run. Needle should be 1.8 in the gun. Smaller ones like 1.4 weren't quite qorking the way I wanted them to.
I learned this the hard way a long time ago. Good advise
More spending involved. Even with my Hakko 888D - desoldering is a bitch. So after reading got myself Aoyue 474A++ Digital Desoldering Station with Built-In Vacuum Pump. Just have a few connectors to change and then back backbox will be fully complete.
I don't think most people realize the costs associated with doing restores.
Quoted from Pinballocks:What a save! This looks amazing. Thanks for sharing your scans & process. Now I can redo mine.
The cabinet images in this thread are not high res enough for a print.
Quoted from flashinstinct:The cabinet images in this thread are not high res enough for a print.
You've inspired me to give mine a make over. I may contact you later, if that would be OK.
Lee
Quoted from Pinballocks:You've inspired me to give mine a make over. I may contact you later, if that would be OK.
Lee
Word to anyone who wants to try this make sure you have the following or the funds to get the following done
Ultrasonic cleaner: this will save you hours of scrubbing. A 22l cleaner will fit the wire harness.
Get a big ass tumbler like the Dillon c2100 and a berry 400 or 500 to get the parts from the ultrasonic cleaner to the tumbler.
Get flitz compound to improve tumbling performance and cutting time.
If you need to do touch ups you will need a good airbrush. The cheap stuff won't get you anywhere. I got myself an iwata eclipse.
When using paint use createx acrylic paint.
If you are going to do your clearcoat you will need a 30 gal compressor and an hvlp gun.
You will also need a breathing air supply system.
Even before you get started you will need to invest about $2k in tools.
It adds up quick.
Flash thanks for the heads up. I have all the equipment & skills. You just kicked me in the ass to get it done. Cab is beat up. But I'm starting with a pin in better condition. I've already flamed the ramps. PF needs no touch ups. What did you do with your old plastics?
Lee
What to do on a saturday night? Well how about taking aim at the lockdown bar. Sanded with 320,400,600,800,1000,1500 grit followed by 3 cutting and polishing passes on the bench buffer with sisal, stictched and loose wheel. Also replaced the beer seal underneath.
Next stop tomorrow is ground braid for the cabinet and hopefully installing the boards in the backbox.
Ugly beer seal.
image_(resized).jpeg
It's ok but not shinny
image_(resized).jpeg
Quoted from flashinstinct:Well it only took 22 days to get my act together. Cabinet braid is installed and I received the new speaker yesterday. Polished up a few things and now I'm at the transformer. Anyone know how to take that coca-cola like residue off the screws?
Do you have a picture of the transformer, screws and residue?
For the past two nights I've been dealing with the transformer. The red lock thread was all over the place. Had to sand each plate and then buff them To a shine. Installed new nylon washer and new bolts... Hit the block with heat paint, cleaned the wires and reassembled. Tomorrow polish bolts and secure the bastard to the cabinet.
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpeg
Still left to do
- Get the speaker PETG printed
- Clean the power box
- Clean coin door
- Finish assembling the damn playfield (I'm buying a dillon CV2001 to finish alot of the parts)
- Install ball through
- Reinstall backbox light panel (painted)
- Fix a few molex connections
- Reassemble Goalie and soccer ball motors
God the list never ends..
Always fun things happening. Was blowing compressed air to make sure everything was dry after a soak and the KCC CL-30 Sensors ceramic coating blew off. Wondering where I can find that part? Would this be it?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CL-30/KC003L-ND/19750
Quoted from flashinstinct:Finally ordered the right tool to finish the job!
Dilon Precision CV-2001 Tumbler. Now I can get the Ball through, the goalie mech and few outstanding parts in the polish cycle. Sending Speaker panel to printer tonight. And dismantling the coin door.
Where did you pick that up? Princess Auto? Canadian Tire?
The states. I'm getting it shipped to the border and going to pick it up along with a whole bunch of parts. In Canada they are $349 + taxes + shipping. States side direct from the company $188.95 + $18.95 shipping it was a no brainer considereing that I have to go pick up parts.
Not much to report. Slowly taking out the harness for the coin door and cleaning it. Expecting all parts and tools for the final leg of this project on Sunday. This thing might actually be ready for this year's world cup
Quoted from flashinstinct:This thing might actually be ready for this year's world cup
LOL
Finally got the beast up and running. I wasn't expecting this thing to be so big but am really happy that it is. Just as a reference I place a shaker motor on top. This thing could swallow 5 of them easily spaced out. I managed to put in the remaining metal parts. The ball through will be the last thing that goes in there. Can't wait to see what the parts look like tomorrow morning when I wake up.
Also in is the new coin door, the last few decals and a few other goodies.
Been a long day but at least all the parts have been tumbled and tonight's mission is over. Installed tilt mech, flipper buttons rear slot to hold playfield glass. Finally bolted the transformer.
Tomorrow... Install new coin door, start buttons, coin box bracket and plunger.
Sunday's worksheet
Side rails installed, power box installed, coin door installed, tilt mech installed, painted bolts for backbox light panel and tumbled a few parts.
Tonight's worksheet
Install backbox light panel
Finish ground braid in back box
Install Speaker panel Channel
Put backbox on pinball Cabinet.
Polish and install coin box bracket
Tuesday's Checklist
Finish lockdown bar mech
Install Extra Ball Button
Sort out remaining parts
Still lots to do but moving in the right direction.
Well let's compare apples with apples shall we. Same lockdown bar / before and after. This turned out better than I thought it would.
compare-lockdown-bar_(resized).jpg
Currently cleaning wire harness. Finished installing the sensors back on the ball trough. This puppy should be finished within the month.
Ball though installed, wire harness cleaned and hanged for two weeks. Made sure to blow compressed air in all the connectors and borrowed the wife's hair dryer to just dry all the connectors up just as a safety precuation. Water and electricity don't mix. Next up is the goalie motor. Will have to start thinking about starting to clean the mini playfield and add the new magnet.
The parts pile is getting thin.
What's left to do
- Work on goalie gear motor
- Clean and install goalie mech
- Install a shit load of IR sensors
- Install Ramps
- Install felt leg protectors
- Install some LEDS on the backbox planel
- Install Playfield backplate (done at the end)
Probably forgetting another gazillion things.
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