(Topic ID: 134375)
Linked Games
World Cup Soccer
Bally, 1994
Topic Gallery
Matawan, NJ
Here ya go...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Thank you guys for all the quick responses. I have to show you some pics of J120. Pretty nice hack job. Standby for pics.
You've found the problem. Time for some quality time with a crimping tool... 
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
I guess I should at least use some solderless crimps in place of the electrical tape for the time being right?
Quoted from RampShot11:I guess I should at least use some solderless crimps in place of the electrical tape for the time being right?
You might as well fix it right. Butt connectors don't work well in pinball machines.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
No wonder the whole left side of the playfield gi's won't light. Where the heck did the rest of the wiring go?
Quoted from legotech1:this is what it should look like.help3.jpgwcsphoto 2.JPG
legotech1...something isn't right with the connections at your J120. There are an extra pair of wires connected to J120 that shouldn't be there. It's tough to tell in the pic, but I think they are white/yellow and white/green. My guess is that those should have been stuffed into J121. I think you'll find that connector two wires short.
BTW...J120 and J121 are interchangeable. They exist to support rapid manufacturing. The cabinet (J119), playfield, and backbox harnesses could be manufactured separately, and plugged into their own "reserved" connector during final manufacture. Good engineering.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Lol. Wow. Thanks Zaza. 
I knew you would appreciate it.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:BTW...J120 and J121 are interchangeable. They exist to support rapid manufacturing.
That means you are free to put all 10 wires in 1 connector, but if in the future the backbox needs to be separated from the cabinet for transport, you gonna need scissors.
Thanks guys, so I should use a punch down tool and punch them down into the bottom connector? Which is J121?
Quoted from RampShot11:Thanks guys, so I should use a punch down tool and punch them down into the bottom connector? Which is J121?
I'd solder in new headers at J120 and J121. Then replace the connectors and housings with crimp style trifurcon connectors and eliminate those IDC connectors altogether.
Quoted from jfesler:Zaza, what do you use for your illustrations?
maybe I should edit my profile and put some text there about the software I use.
But here in short,.. the base picture is made with ms-paint, mostly in black/white.
When text, texture, (transparent) colors, rotation, different layers etc. are needed, then Corel photopaint is used.
Some vector-pictures are made with coreldraw and exported as PDF or JPG.
On my laptop I have the adobe package but still have to get used to it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/one-armed-pinball-i-mean-it/page/2#post-2210730
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-does-not-have-any-flashers#post-2243499
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/refocus-on-the-big-lebowski-3d-pics-and-lytro-images-of-tbl#post-1993846
Quoted from zaza:I knew you would appreciate it.
That means you are free to put all 10 wires in 1 connector, but if in the future the backbox needs to be separated from the cabinet for transport, you gonna need scissors.
That is true. But I wouldn't do that with the factory IDC connectors. Presumably, those connectors are matched to the wire gauge used. The backbox uses a smaller gauge wire than does the playfield. And, some games like TZ, use the same color strand for both the PF and the backbox, meaning that two wires would need to be crimped into the same position sometimes.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
So I moved the J120 pins to the correct spots according to Zaza's very cool animation in post # 17, I was able to get the right side GI's to light up like christmas...Sweet!!! BUT, when I moved J121 to the correct pins, everything went out, so now i'm not sure what to do.
I'm going to take a spare wiring harness I have from a Judge Dredd and see if I can re-do the connectors and hope that works.
Maybe the tool in post #25 doesn't work for this connector.
Quoted from RampShot11:BUT, when I moved J121 to the correct pins, everything went out
Do you mean no string at all works now ? Think you have to measure continuity between various points in GI circuit.
Check wiki.
Funny, today I made new trio for Congo where the harness was 'repaired' too many times and had to extend the wires.
Not with a punch-tool but soldered it looks this way:
IMG_2245.JPG
1st. the connector has to be wired better than this, it is possible that there is just no connection between wire and connector.
2nd. Check Vac on J115. - Easy way: one pen on GND, the other on Fuse F106-F110. should be 6.8Vac
I don't know why in first picture (post#8) the violet wire is on position 2 of J121. Maybe there is a burnt trace under PDB and is it placed on another string to at least light on the playfield.
Best is to take PDB out and inspect all traces and connections.
My friend...you need to start from scratch. Rip all that hack-tastic "work" out. Get the proper connectors, pins, and crimp or punch tool, depending on the kind of connector you buy.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Yep. Remove the power driver board and remove J120 and J121. Check for compromised plated through holes and traces. Solder in new headers. Replace the connectors and housings with the wiring ZaZa shows. You are just chasing your tail trying to get that mess to work.
Quoted from RampShot11:I'll post my results in an hour.
(just joking, take your time)
Haha. My wife talked me out of staying up to trouble shoot last night. But without a doubt I will dive deep today/tonight. I'll be home soon and I'll take the board down and inspect. Also, I looked at the fuses quickly last night and found the fuse on the bottom left was blown. I replaced it.
Fellow Pinsiders.... I am happy to say, I am now in GI heaven!!! I just need to replace a few bulbs here and there but I think we are good to go!! Thanks for all the help. Here are some pics.
Quoted from RampShot11:but all in all the board is in good shape.
Yes, it does look in good shape.
Quoted from RampShot11:found the fuse on the bottom left was blown. I replaced it.
That would be GI#5 violet, TopPlayfield + Coindoor.
Looks like you found all problems, well done RampShot11 !!
Thank you sir. Now I have to rip the playfield apart to install all new rubbers. That should be done tonight.
Also, my wife was impressed with your cool graphics.
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