(Topic ID: 134375)

WCS No GI lights


By RampShot11

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 46 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by RampShot11
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Hi guys, I just picked up a WCS and cannot get any of the GI lights to work. I have checked the fuses and they are all fine. Please help. I'm not sure where to look next. Thank you.

#2 4 years ago

Playfield GI or translite GI or both? Have a look at J120 and J121 on the bottom edge of the power/driver board. My no-fear had some melted pins and some a-hole just cut the wires and tacked them to the board.

#3 4 years ago

Now that you mention it, I haven't noticed if the back box GI lights were working. I'll check and post back. I will also look at the connectors you suggested.

#4 4 years ago

What angry Jeep said. I had same problem and it was a smoked J120

#5 4 years ago

Also, check J115 and the connector with the yellow wires in the bottom of the cabinet.

#7 4 years ago

Thank you guys for all the quick responses. I have to show you some pics of J120. Pretty nice hack job. Standby for pics.

#8 4 years ago

Pretty bad. As soon as I touched the electrical tape, the playfield gi lights lit up. Wow. image.jpg

#9 4 years ago

More pics.

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#10 4 years ago

typical monkey tracks. I'd replace them in the long run but way worse has not stopped me from a little hack job touch up and keep on playing!

#11 4 years ago

You've found the problem. Time for some quality time with a crimping tool...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#12 4 years ago

I guess I should at least use some solderless crimps in place of the electrical tape for the time being right?

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

I guess I should at least use some solderless crimps in place of the electrical tape for the time being right?

You might as well fix it right. Butt connectors don't work well in pinball machines.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#14 4 years ago

this is what it should look like.help3.jpgwcsphoto 2.JPG

#15 4 years ago

No wonder the whole left side of the playfield gi's won't light. Where the heck did the rest of the wiring go?

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from legotech1:

this is what it should look like.help3.jpgwcsphoto 2.JPG

legotech1...something isn't right with the connections at your J120. There are an extra pair of wires connected to J120 that shouldn't be there. It's tough to tell in the pic, but I think they are white/yellow and white/green. My guess is that those should have been stuffed into J121. I think you'll find that connector two wires short.

BTW...J120 and J121 are interchangeable. They exist to support rapid manufacturing. The cabinet (J119), playfield, and backbox harnesses could be manufactured separately, and plugged into their own "reserved" connector during final manufacture. Good engineering.

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#17 4 years ago

nice pic.
GI WCS.jpg

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

nice pic.
GI WCS.jpg

Lol. Wow. Thanks Zaza.

#19 4 years ago

I knew you would appreciate it.

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

BTW...J120 and J121 are interchangeable. They exist to support rapid manufacturing.

That means you are free to put all 10 wires in 1 connector, but if in the future the backbox needs to be separated from the cabinet for transport, you gonna need scissors.

#20 4 years ago

Hi Mike, Don't use the Butt connectors. Do it the right way. Joe

#21 4 years ago

This is what mine looked like before I fixed it...it was working 100%, but i plan on selling it eventually, so I fixed it with new pins and connectors...

image.jpg

#22 4 years ago

Zaza, what do you use for your illustrations?

#23 4 years ago

Thanks guys, so I should use a punch down tool and punch them down into the bottom connector? Which is J121?

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

Thanks guys, so I should use a punch down tool and punch them down into the bottom connector? Which is J121?

I'd solder in new headers at J120 and J121. Then replace the connectors and housings with crimp style trifurcon connectors and eliminate those IDC connectors altogether.

#25 4 years ago

This won't work? Temporarily at least?

image.jpg

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Zaza, what do you use for your illustrations?

maybe I should edit my profile and put some text there about the software I use.
But here in short,.. the base picture is made with ms-paint, mostly in black/white.
When text, texture, (transparent) colors, rotation, different layers etc. are needed, then Corel photopaint is used.
Some vector-pictures are made with coreldraw and exported as PDF or JPG.
On my laptop I have the adobe package but still have to get used to it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/one-armed-pinball-i-mean-it/page/2#post-2210730
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-does-not-have-any-flashers#post-2243499
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/refocus-on-the-big-lebowski-3d-pics-and-lytro-images-of-tbl#post-1993846

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

I knew you would appreciate it.

That means you are free to put all 10 wires in 1 connector, but if in the future the backbox needs to be separated from the cabinet for transport, you gonna need scissors.

That is true. But I wouldn't do that with the factory IDC connectors. Presumably, those connectors are matched to the wire gauge used. The backbox uses a smaller gauge wire than does the playfield. And, some games like TZ, use the same color strand for both the PF and the backbox, meaning that two wires would need to be crimped into the same position sometimes.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#28 4 years ago

Good advice !

#29 4 years ago

So I moved the J120 pins to the correct spots according to Zaza's very cool animation in post # 17, I was able to get the right side GI's to light up like christmas...Sweet!!! BUT, when I moved J121 to the correct pins, everything went out, so now i'm not sure what to do.
I'm going to take a spare wiring harness I have from a Judge Dredd and see if I can re-do the connectors and hope that works.

#30 4 years ago

// Error: Image 434695 not found //

#31 4 years ago

image_1.jpg

#32 4 years ago

image_1.jpg

#33 4 years ago

Maybe the tool in post #25 doesn't work for this connector.

Quoted from RampShot11:

BUT, when I moved J121 to the correct pins, everything went out

Do you mean no string at all works now ? Think you have to measure continuity between various points in GI circuit.
Check wiki.

Funny, today I made new trio for Congo where the harness was 'repaired' too many times and had to extend the wires.
Not with a punch-tool but soldered it looks this way:
IMG_2245.JPG

#34 4 years ago

Yes none of the Gi's work. All the playfield lights and flashers work but no GI's, Playfield or backbox.

#35 4 years ago

1st. the connector has to be wired better than this, it is possible that there is just no connection between wire and connector.
2nd. Check Vac on J115. - Easy way: one pen on GND, the other on Fuse F106-F110. should be 6.8Vac

I don't know why in first picture (post#8) the violet wire is on position 2 of J121. Maybe there is a burnt trace under PDB and is it placed on another string to at least light on the playfield.
Best is to take PDB out and inspect all traces and connections.

#36 4 years ago

My friend...you need to start from scratch. Rip all that hack-tastic "work" out. Get the proper connectors, pins, and crimp or punch tool, depending on the kind of connector you buy.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#37 4 years ago

Yep. Remove the power driver board and remove J120 and J121. Check for compromised plated through holes and traces. Solder in new headers. Replace the connectors and housings with the wiring ZaZa shows. You are just chasing your tail trying to get that mess to work.

#38 4 years ago

Thanks guys. When I get home later I will start from scratch. I found some connectors from a JD that should work. I'll post my results in an hour.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

I'll post my results in an hour.

strechted hour.jpg

(just joking, take your time)

#40 4 years ago

Haha. My wife talked me out of staying up to trouble shoot last night. But without a doubt I will dive deep today/tonight. I'll be home soon and I'll take the board down and inspect. Also, I looked at the fuses quickly last night and found the fuse on the bottom left was blown. I replaced it.

#41 4 years ago

Here are some pics of the board. J120 & J121 definitely look like some solder work was done but all in all the board is in good shape. I buzzed the traces and everything seems good. I got some new connectors I'm gonna try now.

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#42 4 years ago

Fellow Pinsiders.... I am happy to say, I am now in GI heaven!!! I just need to replace a few bulbs here and there but I think we are good to go!! Thanks for all the help. Here are some pics.

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#43 4 years ago
Quoted from RampShot11:

but all in all the board is in good shape.

Yes, it does look in good shape.

Quoted from RampShot11:

found the fuse on the bottom left was blown. I replaced it.

That would be GI#5 violet, TopPlayfield + Coindoor.

Looks like you found all problems, well done RampShot11 !!

#44 4 years ago

Thank you sir. Now I have to rip the playfield apart to install all new rubbers. That should be done tonight.
Also, my wife was impressed with your cool graphics.

#45 4 years ago

Thanks for the compliments, special for your wife another cool picture:

Zaza happy.jpg

#46 4 years ago

Haha. Awesome!!

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