(Topic ID: 149728)

WCS Driver Board Issues - Lamp Matrix and 12VR

By prock

8 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by prock
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Hi all, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here. I'm helping a friend fix his WCS94 and I haven't been able to get to the bottom of *all* the issues yet.

It all stared with the "check F114 F115" message. After checking all fuses (all were good) I removed the driver board and noticed that the cap right next to the 12V regulator had exploded and leaked on the board. I removed that cap (and cleaned up the board) and noted that the trace was had been corroded and was no longer connected to the via. I replaced both the cap (fixed the trace and ensured that I had good connectivity) and the 12VDC regulator (just in case).

After turning the game on again (attract mode seemed fine) I started a game... but I immediately noticed that a lot of the inserts were lit when they shouldn't be. After playing for a short time the game reset. I booted back up and went to test mode ALL switched tested fine. I then noticed that the slingshots weren't working as well as the pop bumpers and eject holes. The coils weren't working because F105 kept blowing on power-up and I determined that it was a shorted coil. I removed the coil from the circuit (cut the leads) and now F105 doesn't blow and the slings, pops and ejects work fine. I believe I'll be able to resolve the coil issue by replacing the coil, the associated transistor (if the coil locks on when I boot it up).

The odd thing is that the +12V regulated test point reads 10.5V-11V and it fluctuates. Any ideas what might be causing this?

Here are all my measurements:
tp1 - 13.9V
tp2 - 5V
tp3 - 10.5-11V
tp4 - 0.4V
tp6 - 75V (this one starts at 100V and levels out at 75V.. not sure if that is normal)
tp7 - 22V
tp8 - 14V (seems a bit low.. should be ~18V??)

And the LEDs are lit as follows:
1 - lit
2 - lit
3 - pulses
4 - lit
5 - lit
6 - lit
7 - lit

The next issue I need to investigate is the lamp matrix. As I stated before there are multiple inserts lighting up when only 1 should be. I went to the lamp matrix and tested the first 2 columns and got these results (I haven't verified these.. need to double check to be sure I recorded properly):

11 - lights 11,44
12 - lights 12,16,61,76
13 - lights 13,61
14 - lights 14,16,64,76
15 - lights 15,65
16 - lights 18,68,76
17 - lights 17,77
18 - lights 18,16,68,76
21 - lights 21,65,81
22 - lights 22,86,62,82,76
23 - lights 23,83
24 - lights 86,76,64,84
25 - lights 65,85
26 - lights 88,68,86,76
27 - lights 77,78
28 - lights 76,68,86

Those are all I had time to record. I wanted to check them all. The next step of course is to unplug the lamp matrix from the driver board and test each row and column manually. I suspect this is not a wiring issue on the playfield as this was not an issue before the F114,F115 messages started.

So I guess my question here is where to go next? Assuming of course that it's not a playfield wiring issue, what should I check next?

#2 8 years ago

Start with finding out whats dragging down the 12VR to 10-11 volts. This can cause all sorts of problems. 12VR doesn't go to many places, mainly LM339 chips. One of them may be bad dragging this down.

#3 8 years ago

Verify if J133 to J138 are correct connected and not one pin off. Are the key-pins still present in the connectors ?
Same for the coils blowing F105, doublecheck the connectors on J122 to J132.

Can you make a picture from the PowerDriverBoard with plugs in place ?

#4 8 years ago

How do I go about determining what is dragging it down? I'll try to disconnect the lamps and test voltages again... perhaps there is a wiring problem causing this funkyness because TP8 is also low. According to the schematic TP8 represents the voltage going to the lamp columns... am I reading that correct?

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Verify if J133 to J138 are correct connected and not one pin off. Are the key-pins still present in the connectors ?
Same for the coils blowing F105, doublecheck the connectors on J122 to J132.
Can you make a picture from the PowerDriverBoard with plugs in place ?

I'll check this again.. I took some pictures and double/triple checked. But wont hurt to do this again. I'm pretty positive everything is correct though.

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from prock:

According to the schematic TP8 represents the voltage going to the lamp columns... am I reading that correct?

Yes correct.
With J133-138 disconnected, do you have 12.0 Volt on TP3 ? And what about TP8 ? 17-19 Volt is normal.

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from prock:

According to the schematic

They show you which boards are connected to VR12. Unplug one at a time and recheck VR12 with a voltmeter.

#8 8 years ago

The 12V regulated is derived from the 18V circuit. So if TP8 is low I would expect TP3 to be low also. I would therefore look at the 18V circuit first.

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

The 12V regulated is derived from the 18V circuit. So if TP8 is low I would expect TP3 to be low also. I would therefore look at the 18V circuit first.

This seems logical however doesn't the 12V voltage regulator allow for higher input voltages and regulate them to 12V? If TP8 is 14V shouldn't the regulator have no issues producing the 12V? Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to get over to my friends place to do some more debugging so I don't have much to report.

#10 8 years ago
Quoted from prock:

This seems logical however doesn't the 12V voltage regulator allow for higher input voltages and regulate them to 12V? If TP8 is 14V shouldn't the regulator have no issues producing the 12V?

Yes it should, but (as it appears to be in your case) I've seen occasions where if the 18 is low, the 12 will read low. I would presume this is indicative of a current limiting problem.

Also, after TP8 you're dropping the voltage across a couple of diodes. So the actual V1 will be less than the 14 volt reading you got at TP8, and on a 20 year-old voltage regulator that could be pushing it's capabilities.

This may not solve your issue, but I would fix the upstream problem first and then go from there.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from prock:

If TP8 is 14V shouldn't the regulator have no issues producing the 12V?

If I remember correctly there has to be a +3 volt difference or the regulator can't deliver proper current, which then drags down the volts as well.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If I remember correctly there has to be a +3 volt difference or the regulator can't deliver proper current, which then drags down the volts as well.

Okay.. I'll continue to debug the low voltage on TP8.

Quoted from zaza:

With J133-138 disconnected, do you have 12.0 Volt on TP3 ? And what about TP8 ? 17-19 Volt is normal.

There is no change in voltage on TP3 or TP8 when I disconnect J133-138.

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Also, after TP8 you're dropping the voltage across a couple of diodes. So the actual V1 will be less than the 14 volt reading you got at TP8, and on a 20 year-old voltage regulator that could be pushing it's capabilities.

All voltages I have measured after I replaced the voltage regulator with a new one. I replaced it at the same time as the cap.

#14 8 years ago

Can you measure rectifier BR1 ?
Machine OFF and unplug J101. Measure the easy way with board still in machine.

measure_BR11_(resized).jpgmeasure_BR11_(resized).jpg

#15 8 years ago

I said it before but dam zaza, you have the best pics. Also you know your shit too.

#16 8 years ago

Yeah, I really like the WPC system. It's well documented, test-menu's are just perfect and electronics + mechs are still fixable.

Other possibilities other than BR1 would be a failing Capacitor C6 / C7 and bad contacts / solder / wires.

#17 8 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Can you measure rectifier BR1 ?
Machine OFF and unplug J101. Measure the easy way with board still in machine.

Performed this test (thanks for the tip on testing while the board was in)... BR1 is bad. Ordering a replacement as well as replacements for C6 and C7 just to be sure.. I'm sure they are due to be replaced.

Test results:

1) 526
2) 526
3) 190
4) 190

#18 8 years ago

I didn't expect this kind of values but there is certainly something wrong there. If you remove the bridge rectifier from the board, measure the bridge again to verify it without other components.

Quoted from prock:

Ordering a replacement as well as replacements for C6 and C7 just to be sure

Be careful with traces and through-holes when removing capacitors and bridge. Traces are on both sides of this board and through-holes are part of this path.

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

I didn't expect this kind of values but there is certainly something wrong there. If you remove the bridge rectifier from the board, measure the bridge again to verify it without other components.

Good idea... I'll re-measure when the BR has been removed.

Quoted from zaza:

Be careful with traces and through-holes when removing capacitors and bridge. Traces are on both sides of this board and through-holes are part of this path.

Noted. Extra care will be taken when removing the components.

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