(Topic ID: 3175)

water slide decals for playfield restore


By cevans82

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by TrainH2o
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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    balls decal incerts.jpg
    Balls decal2.jpg
    Rack 2 decals.jpg
    rack scan.jpg
    clear_4.jpg
    clear_3.jpg
    clear_2.jpg
    clear_1.jpg
    decal_2.jpg
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    start.jpg

    #1 9 years ago

    i am looking for some info on water slide paper. has anyone used them on a restore. im thing about using it for some lettering on a playfield i am restoring. after the first clearcoat is my plan. any info is good thanks

    9 months later
    #2 8 years ago

    Bump.......I'm looking at trying this too.

    #3 8 years ago

    I have used them...they are thinner than the insert decal sets you can purchase, and they are easier to clear over because you don't have to apply as many coats of clear to get them level with the PF...One problem that I have come across is that the water part doesn't work well with the ink! I have used krylon crystal clear, and put several coats of that on the decals before you cut them out...that usually will keep them from bleeding when you apply the clear...but not always... I have had them bleed even after applying the crystal clear. So I guess it is kind of hit or miss... but if they don't bleed they work great!!

    I usually apply 2 coats of clear then sand it one time, then apply the decals...then apply a mist coat of clear to try to seal the decals...then heavier coats after that.

    Phoebe

    #4 8 years ago

    rub on lettering works great

    #5 8 years ago
    Quoted from mystic:

    rub on lettering works great

    I have tried to find fonts i like, but the choices are so limited.

    #6 8 years ago
    Quoted from Butterflygirl24:

    I have used them...they are thinner than the insert decal sets you can purchase, and they are easier to clear over because you don't have to apply as many coats of clear to get them level with the PF...One problem that I have come across is that the water part doesn't work well with the ink! I have used krylon crystal clear, and put several coats of that on the decals before you cut them out...that usually will keep them from bleeding when you apply the clear...but not always... I have had them bleed even after applying the crystal clear. So I guess it is kind of hit or miss... but if they don't bleed they work great!!
    I usually apply 2 coats of clear then sand it one time, then apply the decals...then apply a mist coat of clear to try to seal the decals...then heavier coats after that.
    Phoebe

    Have you tried Laser printer? It seems to me that slide decals would have a much greater advantage in placement. You can move it around to get it just the way you like. I am not so concerned with burying in clear as I am getting decals exactly positioned. This makes me wonder if you could use the same solution that you apply cabinet decals wet with the ink up adheseve type decals that I bought from BAA.

    #7 8 years ago
    Quoted from SDFworker:

    Butterflygirl24 said:I have used them...they are thinner than the insert decal sets you can purchase, and they are easier to clear over because you don't have to apply as many coats of clear to get them level with the PF...One problem that I have come across is that the water part doesn't work well with the ink! I have used krylon crystal clear, and put several coats of that on the decals before you cut them out...that usually will keep them from bleeding when you apply the clear...but not always... I have had them bleed even after applying the crystal clear. So I guess it is kind of hit or miss... but if they don't bleed they work great!!
    I usually apply 2 coats of clear then sand it one time, then apply the decals...then apply a mist coat of clear to try to seal the decals...then heavier coats after that.
    Phoebe
    Have you tried Laser printer? It seems to me that slide decals would have a much greater advantage in placement. You can move it around to get it just the way you like. I am not so concerned with burying in clear as I am getting decals exactly positioned. This makes me wonder if you could use the same solution that you apply cabinet decals wet with the ink up adheseve type decals that I bought from BAA.

    I am actually not sure if it was a laser printer...I had a friend print them for me.
    Yes I like the fact that you can get them positioned where you want them, and can slide them around to do it before you dab the water away...but if you don't seal them, they will rub off even if the are exactly positioned...they still need to have something over them to protect them. I was just saying that since the water slide paper is thinner than the insert decals you can buy, it is easier to get the area level because it doesn't take as much to level them...

    Phoebe

    #8 8 years ago

    Butterflygirl24 is right. The water slide decal paper works great. I have had 0 issues with bleeding after using the Bonder spray. Print it out, let it dry and then spray a couple of thin coats on it. Works great. Best part is both of these products can be found at hobby lobby so you should be able to run to a local store and save on shiping cost.

    You need this
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXFLC6&P=8

    and then spray with this
    http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes9200.htm

    Butterflygirl24 - Not sure if you have tried this spray or not. If you haven't give it a shot. I was having all kinds of problems with bleeding then I used this stuff and haven't had an issue since.

    #9 8 years ago

    I have zero experience with any decals. I am slowly working on a BK2K and have a set of BAA ink up decals for it. I was successful at mylar and glue removal. I like the idea of taking the purchased decals and copying them to make waterslides. Is that what you suggest? Do you think I would be just as good to use the ones I bought? I will be using auto clear on this playfield set and don't mind making it thick. Thanks Butterfly and Vet for the help.

    #10 8 years ago
    Quoted from 85vett:

    Butterflygirl24 is right. The water slide decal paper works great. I have had 0 issues with bleeding after using the Bonder spray. Print it out, let it dry and then spray a couple of thin coats on it. Works great. Best part is both of these products can be found at hobby lobby so you should be able to run to a local store and save on shiping cost.
    You need this
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXFLC6&P=8
    and then spray with this
    http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes9200.htm
    Butterflygirl24 - Not sure if you have tried this spray or not. If you haven't give it a shot. I was having all kinds of problems with bleeding then I used this stuff and haven't had an issue since.

    SDF yes I would copy the decals, and make your own. Never know when you might need them again...
    Vett have you cleared over the testor spray?? If so and it has no adverse reaction with the clear, then I gotta get me some of that for sure!!

    Phoebe

    #11 8 years ago
    Quoted from Butterflygirl24:

    Vett have you cleared over the testor spray?? If so and it has no adverse reaction with the clear, then I gotta get me some of that for sure!!

    Haven't tried it yet. I have a couple of sheets and some clear sitting around. I'll spray one to make sure but I doubt it will be a problem as the testor spray is meant for model decals and most builders will clear their car, plane, etc once completed. I'll let you know and take pictures as I go.

    #12 8 years ago

    I

    Quoted from 85vett: Haven't tried it yet. I have a couple of sheets and some clear sitting around. I'll spray one to make sure but I doubt it will be a problem as the testor spray is meant for model decals and most builders will clear their car, plane, etc once completed. I'll let you know and take pictures as I go.

    Here's a small kit with everything for $8. I will see if our Hobby Lobby has and report back also. I have some more clearing to do soon.

    http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes9198.htm

    #13 8 years ago
    Quoted from SDFworker:

    Here's a small kit with everything for $8. I will see if our Hobby Lobby has and report back also. I have some more clearing to do soon.

    Not to bad. You'll want more than 1 sheet or each though, trust me

    #14 8 years ago

    Butterflygirl24 - Here are some pics. Keep in mind that I didn't really work to hard to make things perfect as I was just testing to see if the clear would take. I didn't use my good clear (just rattle can paint) or even set up a clean enviroment (sprayed it on the back patio). Today was also 50 degrees with high humidity. Long story short is it can be way better when done right. From the test it looks like it shouldn't be an issue at all. Just make sure everything dries well before you start but I don't think I need to tell you that anyways.

    Pic 1 - the decal off the printer. I used draft so it's not as nice as it could be. Again, just a test to make sure it didn't bleed or react poorly.
    Pic 2 - products I used
    Pic 3 & 4 - The decal on a trash piece of plexiglass No prep work at all. Just wiped clean and installed the decal.
    Pic 5 - 7 - Shows that their wasn't any bleed and the clear layed down without reacting poorly.
    Pic 8 - Shows thin the decal is even with clear on it. I didn't wet sand or anything so it could be a lot better with more care taken.

    Hope this helps out.

    start.jpg product.jpg decal_1.jpg decal_2.jpg clear_1.jpg clear_2.jpg

    #15 8 years ago

    Trying pic 7 and 8 again. These are with the clear dried.

    clear_3.jpg clear_4.jpg

    #16 8 years ago

    P.S. - The lines in the decals are the crummy printer I have. Not the decals fault.

    #17 8 years ago

    Thanks Vett I will have to get some of that sealer and give it a try!

    Phoebe

    2 weeks later
    #18 8 years ago

    thanks for the info still in the process of restore this will help

    1 year later
    #19 7 years ago

    Bumping an old thread because I'm trying to recreate a large decal for my NBAFB. I'm am going to try with the Testors decal paper and spray... Maybe finish with some clear.

    I'll post pics when done

    3 weeks later
    #20 7 years ago
    Quoted from Rascal_H:

    Bumping an old thread because I'm trying to recreate a large decal for my NBAFB

    Be careful with large decals, it's VERY easy to get wrinkles (and ink seperation that looks like planking) if you aren't careful. Best technique is to peel an edge, stick the first part of it in position, then slowly peel away the backing so you have the paper to support it. Use a brush to hold the decal in place as you do this too.

    #21 7 years ago

    where are you guys getting the jpegs from for the artwork???? Isnt it difficult to find quality images for the art?

    #22 7 years ago

    I recently did a large repair on a Nine Ball PF. Here is the before and after. These guys have the good stuff:
    http://www.texascraft.com/hps/Inkjet-Waterslide-Decal-Paper/

    Quoted from Rascal_H:

    Bumping an old thread because I'm trying to recreate a large decal for my NBAFB. I'm am going to try with the Testors decal paper and spray... Maybe finish with some clear.
    I'll post pics when done

    rack scan.jpg Rack 2 decals.jpg
    #23 7 years ago
    Quoted from Superchicken:

    I recently did a large repair on a Nine Ball PF. Here is the before and after.

    Wow. Zoomed-in on that second photo and still trying to figure-out what you did! Any chance we could see pix of your water-slide decals?

    Ryan Claytor
    Elephant Eater Comics
    www.ElephantEater.com

    #24 7 years ago

    The printing on my test decal looks bad. It's a good fit but the color areas are way too transparent... Might have to paint some base color on the insert first. Not sure if that will throw off the level inf for the decal though.

    #25 7 years ago

    I did 2 decals, the balls printed on white paper and the inserts on clear. Here is the process:

    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/3

    Quoted from RyanClaytor:

    Wow. Zoomed-in on that second photo and still trying to figure-out what you did! Any chance we could see pix of your water-slide decals?
    Ryan Claytor
    Elephant Eater Comics
    http://www.ElephantEater.com

    Balls decal2.jpg balls decal incerts.jpg
    8 months later
    #26 6 years ago

    To scan an image off the playfield would require a handheld scanner, any suggestions?

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from REMPins:

    To scan an image off the playfield would require a handheld scanner, any suggestions?

    There was an HP model, HP 4600 maybe. Might want to do a forum search.

    However, if you have a really good quality DSLR and Macro lens and flat lighting, you can photograph a section. Maybe not the most viable option for most, but I am a photographer.

    #28 6 years ago

    Superchicken how did you prep the playfield before apply the decal. Please explain in detail if you don't mind.

    #29 6 years ago

    Was clear coated later?

    2 weeks later
    #30 6 years ago
    Quoted from REMPins:

    Superchicken how did you prep the playfield before apply the decal. Please explain in detail if you don't mind.

    Sorry, I’ve been dormant for a while. I recently moved and am just getting close to a working shop again. Playfield prep is pretty standard stuff mostly from Vid’s guide. The key is to have everything level before touchup or decals. There can be no aggressive sanding after the decal. Decals like to be on flat and smooth surfaces like glass. Here are the steps I use:
    • Spray cleaner
    • Naphtha
    • Re-glue and level inserts (see Vid’s guide)
    • Magic easer with a little alcohol where needed
    • Auto clay with lube where needed
    • Auto dewaxer/surface prep
    • Prep sand (500 grit)
    • Vacuum
    • Naphtha
    • Nook and cranny cleaning with air hose and Q-tips
    • Naphtha
    • Base clear coat
    • Sand flat
    • Level inserts if needed
    • Sand flat
    • Airbrush/paint brush touch ups
    • Clear coat
    • Let dry based on the product you are using
    • Seal decal with aerosol decal fixative http://www.texascraft.com/hps/Aerosol-Decal-Fixative-12-fl.-oz.html
    • Decal application using decal mounting fluid http://www.texascraft.com/hps/Decal-Mounting-Fluid-2fl.-oz..html
    • Let everything dry for a day or two
    • Apply aerosol decal fixative again over mounted decal
    • Apply final coats of clear coat

    #31 6 years ago
    Quoted from TrainH2o:

    There was an HP model, HP 4600 maybe

    This comes up as a flatbed scanner.

    #32 6 years ago
    Quoted from fiberdude120:

    This comes up as a flatbed scanner.

    It is a flatbed, but if it's the correct one you can remove the top and lay it directly on the playfield. It also has a clear bottom so you can see through the scanner, allowing you to see what you are scanning.

    #33 6 years ago

    Looking back, it was the 4600 but it's been discontinued. People are finding them on Ebay, on occasion. Looks like HP 4670, is a newer model.

    amazon.com link »

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